Is there a way to program the doors on the 2006 BMW 530i to lock automatically? I don't like having to manually lock the doors every time I begin to drive somewhere. Not a huge deal, but thoughts on this issue appreciated.
Speaking strictly for myself, it drives me crazy when a car insists on locking itself when I put it in gear or when it reaches a certain speed. Grrrr! Having said that, you can program your door locks to do just that through your iDrive system. Check your manual under the section labeled "Opening and closing: from inside", which is on Page 30 of the 2004 manual. In that section, there is a reference to the "Central locking" sub-menu in the iDrive system, and under that menu there is an option called "Lock after driving off". I believe that is what you are looking for.
The story is going to examine whether the SMG can satisfy a hardcore track junkie(me) as well as someone who prefers a slushbox(my wife). Needless to say, a 6er droptop is not exactly a track rat, but I still ought to be able to determine whether the SMG is the answer-or not...
I'm not certain, but as I understand it the 6er SMG falls somewhere in-between the garden variety SMG and the M3 version. And the story is for Roundel.
hope springs eternal. and im still assuming my car has a problem that is fixable, but my dealer has not figured it out. mechanics i have spoken to at independent shops have suggested a couple of problems that bmw's have re leaks: like a plug that pops out in a drain line under the hood and allows water to run to the backseat; also a drain tube from the sunroof that gets clogged, so i'll try again to salvage this wonderful driving experience.
thinking back, every job this dealer has done has been done wrong, so it is plausible the dealership is poor. i mean if they can't even change oil, maybe the company is not to blame when they also cannot find a leak.
i have always been leary of dealers because of cost, but with my first beemer i thought i would pay the extra dollar and get better service. but the service is actually worse. that's a shock.
it makes sense though, since independent servicemen survive on expertise, but the dealer survives because you feel you have to go there.
tomorrow at 9 am, i try again. i have reached bmw north america and they have promised to talk to the dealer and see that they schedule an expert consult on my problem, so the company is trying to get the dealer to do a decent job, but they have not yet figured out how to do that.
i will say that everyone i have spoken to at bmw has been extremely polite and couteous. they have a wonderful customer service facade at least, i.e. they trreat you llike a prince, but the problem is they do not follow up with any kind of actual mechanical expertise.
I had a 2001 530i and complained to service about the same thing, and the response was "it is normal". Everyone who sat in the car commented on this very intrusive noise, which occurred whenever the A/C was on, or when it was very hot outside.
I now own a 2004 545i and while the fans are much quieter, they still make more noise than most cars. It seems that it is part of the design of the cooling system.
I would still ask service to look into it, but don't be surprised when you hear the answer.
I previously owned a 2001 530i which had no problems, except for the noisy cooling fans which are designed that way.
My current BMW, a 2004 545i is reliable overall, but I agree with you that they are not anywhere near as reliable as the Japanese makes.
My 2003 Camry V6 was so dependable it scared me, and had it not been my third Camry, I may have thought it was luck. Apparently not. All three of them required only oil changes, and nothing else !! Not even a light bulb. Furthermore their engines were Swiss-watch smooth to match, including their transmissions.
My 545i, while it gets a lot of looks, has many small and mainly annoying problems, such as a creaky drivers seat (which is actually very annoying), noisy/creaky window seals, a valvetronic system that sounds like a diesel at idle, super-noisy sunroof, and a transmission that downshifts like a shotgun and "lunges" from a standstill.
And lets not even discuss the run-flats which howl and wear out early in their life span.
I know it is blasphemy, in some circles, to compare a Japanese vehicle to a BMW, but I agree with you when it comes to the realiabilty aspect.
Note that German vehicles finish behind, both Japanese and American-made vehicles in reliability and initial-quality surveys.
Is your Camry for sale? If not, do you know where I might find one? I'd prefer one that hasn't seen the track, but I know those are few and far between. Thanks for any and all help!
I disagree that noisy fans are integral to the cooling system. I don't hear anything different when the A/C is on, even with the windows open, the radio off, and the car in neutral. Varying the fan speed in an attempt to create some noise didn't work, either. The only thing I heard was blowing air.
I'm having to reach back a little on this one, however, if I recall correctly, one of BMWs suppliers delivered some large number of auxiliary cooling fans that would suddenly fail to function causing the engine to overheat, or worse, spontaneously combust, which of course would mean that unless you happened to be right in front of a fire station, your entire car would go "Poof!" As soon as BMW identified the problem they quickly selected an alternate vendor and sent those out into the field as replacements; however, due to their rapid response to the problem (and the resultant not so thorough testing), those new fans had some problems as well. It seems that right about that time, the "Noisy" fan made its debut, both as a replacement as well as the OEM fan on newly built cars. Starting with the 2002 model year, the cooling system was at least partially redone and as such the 2002 and later E39 and E46 cars were once again quiet (and stayed cool).
Said another way, you're both right. The 2001 E39 is probably rather noisy and the 2002 E39 is probably considerably quieter.
"I now own a 2004 545i and while the fans are much quieter, they still make more noise than most cars. It seems that it is part of the design of the cooling system."
I own a 2004 530d and the fans are noiseless. I usually have the fan speed preset to 'low' by way of iDrive. When in "medium" position, they are a bit murmuring, but it is due to the blowing-air noise and not to the fan engines. When in "high" position, the blowing noise is however quite strong. Could that noise of you 545i be due to that?
My 2005 545 (build12/04) has none of the above mentioned problems. It has only 3,000 miles though and it is too early for tires (Re 050) to become noisy.
My 2002 540 (build 02/02) had a very noisy fan that made the car sound like an air-jet when accelerating (below 45 mph). 545's fan can hardly be heard and only when it is really hot and dry.
Interesting, your 540i is the first 2002 that I remember hearing about with a loud fan. My 2002 530i, also a 02/02 build, was as quiet as could be. Go figure.
Hmmm, interesting. Based upon what I remember, March cars were at the height of the fan issue. Can you still see the label on the auxuliary cooling fan? If so, which fan did you get, Siemens, Bosch or Brand X?
Thanks for all the responses... I'll probably take it in to see just in case... like i said it's only a minor annoyance when the A/C is on or when it's really hot....
I am looking at the Motorola V330 to use in my E90. Are you still happy with its operation? Any glitches or incompatibilities with the BMW bluetooth system?
I have a problem with my M3 that has only 24,000 miles. "Service engine soon" indicator came on and the dealer proceeded to fix a part in the gas tank. This was a solution that worked only fro a one week. Once I was on the open read and rev-ed up the engine to the higher RMPs the problem repeated itself...
I've also got a 545i six-speed. Like you, I like the active steering just fine. Had initial problems banging curbs and the like till I got use to it. But, have not noticed the click you mention.
Well, I know how to put oil and gas in the car, but looking for the aux fan is another matter. (I took typing in high school instead of shop.) Anyway, I used my trusty BMW flashlight and found a small boxy looking shape on the left side of the engine (if you are facing the engine) and it said Bosch on it. Is that it or is there another place to look? Everything else under the hood had BMW on it from what I could see.
I bought a pre owned 97 BMW 540i Oct 03 with 92,000 on it. I love the way it drives and the looks I get But, but after 4 months, i had taken it to the dealer for schedule maintenance which as expected handed me a list of repairs needed to be done i. e. service + O2sensor replacement $550, drive belts replacement $200, catalytic converter x2 replacement $2461, rear main seal leak $1142, valve cover gasket replacement $548, radiator replacement $548, intake manifold $ 768. With discount we paid $5461 total. Yesterday, we took the car for schedule II maintenance and paid almost $1000 and as expected we again got a list: coolant leak $1220, front control bushings $750, front crank seal $450, break and coolant flush $320. The car is driveable and there is no sign of trouble yet but there is a warning saying coolant is low. We opted not to have the recommended repaits done since it is not within our buget this month, but I need help, anybody who could recommend do this job for less or an independent technician in the Dallas, Tx area is greatly appreciate. I am a new BMW owner and need everyone's input. :confuse:
I explored it more this weekend and it is actually coming from the engine...sort of a clunking sound that speeds up when the RPMs are revved up. It doesn't sound like a light "ticking" sound like the sound of the spark plugs firing, but it sounds more like something is loose on the lower part of the engine. I should probably just take it to the dealership, but it is such a pain to do that after only owning the car for a week!
I have a 2006 530i and I notice after driving 10 mins or so and the car is warm the (active) steering makes a faint noise...which disappears when I make a turn and have the wheels turned all the way...but as soon as I start turning them back it is there again...and I also hear it when the car is just idling. Turning the steering wheel elevates the noise slightly...it gets a little more intense compared to not moving the steering wheel...
Reminds me of wind noise...has some high pitch noise in it along with flowing air noise.
After 30-45 mins or so of putting up with it the noise disappears for the rest of the day and shows up again the next morning after the car is warm again...
If I put the a/c fan on the second lowest speed it is drowned out...so it is faint but noticeable for people with normal or fine? hearing...anyone else notice that as well and it is normal for A/S?
Approaching an intersection in my 2005 545 six speed, when the doors unlocked, the flashers activated and the iDrive screen frantically announced I'd had an accident and tried to send my location to BMW. I switched off the flashers and carried on driving. Now,every time I start the car, I get this ominous message on my iDrive screen "Fault in passenger restraint system affecting air bag, seat tensioners or belt force limiter".
Though all this the car has run just fine. I called my BMW Service Center and they say it's a software glitch and to bring the car in for a software update which takes 5,000 hours (or seems to); actually it's an all day affair.
Anyone else have this problem? If so, what was the cause? Also, after the iDrive tried to call BMW, it announced the call had failed. What does that mean?
The first thing you need to do is join the BMW Car Club of America. Club members get discounts of up to 25% on parts and/or service at hundreds of dealers and shops. Next, go to www.iaibmwsp.org -the web site of The International Association of Independent BMW Service Professionals. They have several member shops in your area. Finally check out my E39 home page in my profile. As for your current problems, it sure sounds like the dealer is hosing you-for both scheduled maintenance and repairs. Why were the 02 sensors and cats replaced? Was the check engine light on? Were the cats rattling? As for the cost of an Inspection II, my independent BMW shop only charged me $700 to do the service on my wife's 528i-and that included new BMW brake pads on all four wheels. Now, your V8 would be a bit more, but certainly not over $300 more. As for the brake fluid/coolant flush, my BMW dealer only charged $143(BTW, the brake fluid only gets changed every two years while the coolant should be changed every three). I've owned my 1997 528i since 3/01 and it currently has 122000 miles on the clock; my total service and repair costs have averaged less than $800 per year-and that includes one set of tires. As for the dealer's current attempt to shaft you, I'd want to know: Just exactly where is that $1200 coolant leak? How much oil is leaking past the front seal? Why do the control arm bushings need replacement-is there a shimmy or vibration in the front end? It really ticks me off when dealers treat service customers the way you have been treated. I hope this information will help make your BMW ownership experience considerably less expensive.
Is there a way to manually turn off that irritating message that shows up on the I-Drive every time you start the car? It is the warning about not using the I-Drive while you are driving. I’d love to turn it off as I have already read it too many times Any help is appreciated.
Hello Everyone, I am having some crazy electrical problems with my 1998 528i. The car has recently just been shutting down completely after I park. All the electrical system shuts down, Bad Battery? I just replaced the darn thing no more than 2-3 years ago. Now this is the crazy thing, after the car electrically completely shut down, I wanted to put my briefcase in the trunk since I could not even lock my doors, the trunk would not open.When I turned the trunk key lock, the car regenerated itself! All the electrical system kicked back on. What's Up with that?!?! Am I missing something? :confuse:
The first thing I would do is load test the battery. A bad battery can cause all sorts of glitches on an E39. If you bought a BMW battery then it is very possible that it is at the end of it's lifespan; for some reason the BMW replacement batteries do not last as long as the OEM battery(assuming that you keep the water level topped up). If the battery is bad you should replace it with an Interstate MTP-93. Just make sure that the dealer includes the vent kit so that it will connect to the car's vent hose. If the battery and it's connections are good we'll try a little more long distance troubleshooting...
I own a 2004 525i. Ever since I have had it (new) I have had a myriad of problems, including 2 recalls which seriously cut into my workdays. The first dealer told me that my recurring window problems where the passenger side window would not go up (kept getting to the top then going back down half-way) was due to the fact that there was not enough power to roll up the windows and shut the sunroof at the same time! After unsuccessfully trying to fix that twice and being unable to fix the radio which would not hold the settings, I went to another dealer 30 minutes from my house. Well, they WERE able to fix the window and after 2 attempts to fix the radio - a firmware update. However, I continue to have quality issues and problems - electric headrest not working, fuzzy speakers, auto trunk key not responsive, cupholder knob falling off, etc. Yesterday the car was in for some of these repairs and lo and behold when I got the car home the sunroof would not close! And, an impending storm was approaching. Calls to service soliticted 1) bring the car in right away and 2) "don't worry, the BMW sunroof has drains so too much water won't get in the car. I took it back this morning and supposedly the sunroof needed reinitalizing - which according to the service mgr. the cars don't need, but mine did. Hello - electrical probs here?? Anyway, I am seriously thinking of chucking the beemer and buying something else. How many problems are too many??? The car practically sits in the driveway since I choose to take the metro subway to work. It's awful that I waited 38 years for a BMW and this was an anniversary gift and I am secretly pining for my old VW Jetta . . .
Run, don't walk, to the customer relations manager at the dealership. Take a summary of the dates, issues, number of days out of service and if the issue was resolved with you. I originally had a 2003 325i that was was in the dealer 8 times in 12 months for electrical, water in the car and transmission problems. :lemon: I kept complaining about my experience to the service manager but it went nowhere. I went to a Lemon Law lawyer here in CA. BMW agreed to take the car back. I replaced it with a 2005 530i and it has been flawless since taking delivery in late Jan. The first comment from the customer relations manager was "Why didn't you come to me in the first place?" Didn't know and wasn't told that she was there to help with these problems.
Thanks so much for the suggestion! I did not know that there was such a thing as a customer relations manager. Do all dealerships have them? They must keep that person hidden behind a 2 way mirror . . . Luckily I have kept good records and notes. You have given this girl some hope.
Earlier today, I had the V Belt and Air Conditioning belt replaced on my 99 528i, tonight, when I picked it up at my mechanic's after hours, after I started it, the Canadian "Check Engine Light" and the TrTransmissionafe Mode light were on, do these need to be reset, bebecausehe battery was didisconnecteduring the belt process, or do I now have a bigger problem. thanks Troy
Disconnecting the battery would not cause the problems you have described. It is far more likely that your mechanic forgot to re-attach a sensor or two under the hood. A competent shop will be able to read the code faults and correct the problem.
This shop has been working on my car for a couple years adn was recommneded to me by another BMW owner. He has the equipment to read the codes. I thouge it strange that I woudl go from a belt problem to a Transmission problem, because when I took it in the tranny was fine. Originally the battery light was flashing, they check the starter, alternator, and battery and they were fine, when they looked at the belts, the V belt was cracked adn stretched and the AC belt was really cracked. I would agree I have a sensor problem and not a Transmission problem, I hope (-:
Hi everyone. First time here. I have a 1999 528iT. Just hit 100K, and shooting for 200. Per the book, it's time to replace O2 sensors and spark plugs. It looks like I can do this myself.
O2 sensors: is there any difference between Bosch universal and Bosch OEM besides the connector and $35? If not, seems sensible to use the universals and solder or crimp the OEM connectors to them
Spark plugs: The OE plug is NGK platinum with 4 prongs. These have performed perfectly for 100K miles, so I would ordinarily plan to install 6 new ones. But--I have always (well, since I bought the car at 60K) had mild detonation under acceleration between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Would a different plug help eliminate this?
1. I have a 1997 528iA with over 122000 miles. I'm still running the original o2 sensors. When they finally start tripping codes I'll replace them. I'll use BMW sensors; with a CCA discount the cost should be close to the Bosch sensors. 2. The OEM plugs(assuming the plugs in your car are OEM) should not be causing detonation. I run 93 octane and have never had any problems. There must be another cause if the detonation is so bad that the DME can't eliminate it.
Comments
Best Regards,
Shipo
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Is this free-lance, or do you have this sold? (is this nosy?)
regards,
kyfdx
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I like Shipo's idea, as well..
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hope springs eternal. and im still assuming my car has a problem that is fixable, but my dealer has not figured it out. mechanics i have spoken to at independent shops have suggested a couple of problems that bmw's have re leaks: like a plug that pops out in a drain line under the hood and allows water to run to the backseat; also a drain tube from the sunroof that gets clogged, so i'll try again to salvage this wonderful driving experience.
thinking back, every job this dealer has done has been done wrong, so it is plausible the dealership is poor. i mean if they can't even change oil, maybe the company is not to blame when they also cannot find a leak.
i have always been leary of dealers because of cost, but with my first beemer i thought i would pay the extra dollar and get better service. but the service is actually worse. that's a shock.
it makes sense though, since independent servicemen survive on expertise, but the dealer survives because you feel you have to go there.
tomorrow at 9 am, i try again. i have reached bmw north america and they have promised to talk to the dealer and see that they schedule an expert consult on my problem, so the company is trying to get the dealer to do a decent job, but they have not yet figured out how to do that.
i will say that everyone i have spoken to at bmw has been extremely polite and couteous. they have a wonderful customer service facade at least, i.e. they trreat you llike a prince, but the problem is they do not follow up with any kind of actual mechanical expertise.
we'll see.
Best Regards,
Shipo
response was "it is normal". Everyone who sat in the car commented on this
very intrusive noise, which occurred whenever the A/C was on, or when it
was very hot outside.
I now own a 2004 545i and while the fans are much quieter, they still make
more noise than most cars. It seems that it is part of the design of the cooling system.
I would still ask service to look into it, but don't be surprised when you hear
the answer.
good luck.
My current BMW, a 2004 545i is reliable overall, but I agree with you that they
are not anywhere near as reliable as the Japanese makes.
My 2003 Camry V6 was so dependable it scared me, and had it not been my
third Camry, I may have thought it was luck. Apparently not.
All three of them required only oil changes, and nothing else !! Not even a light bulb.
Furthermore their engines were Swiss-watch smooth to match, including their
transmissions.
My 545i, while it gets a lot of looks, has many small and mainly annoying problems, such as a creaky drivers seat (which is actually very annoying),
noisy/creaky window seals, a valvetronic system that sounds like a diesel
at idle, super-noisy sunroof, and a transmission that downshifts like
a shotgun and "lunges" from a standstill.
And lets not even discuss the run-flats which howl and wear out early in their
life span.
I know it is blasphemy, in some circles, to compare a Japanese vehicle to
a BMW, but I agree with you when it comes to the realiabilty aspect.
Note that German vehicles finish behind, both Japanese and American-made
vehicles in reliability and initial-quality surveys.
Said another way, you're both right. The 2001 E39 is probably rather noisy and the 2002 E39 is probably considerably quieter.
Best Regards,
Shipo
more noise than most cars. It seems that it is part of the design of the cooling system."
I own a 2004 530d and the fans are noiseless. I usually have the fan speed preset to 'low' by way of iDrive. When in "medium" position, they are a bit murmuring, but it is due to the blowing-air noise and not to the fan engines. When in "high" position, the blowing noise is however quite strong. Could that noise of you 545i be due to that?
Best regards,
José
Best Regards,
Shipo
My 2005 545 (build12/04) has none of the above mentioned problems. It has only 3,000 miles though and it is too early for tires (Re 050) to become noisy.
My 2002 540 (build 02/02) had a very noisy fan that made the car sound like an air-jet when accelerating (below 45 mph). 545's fan can hardly be heard and only when it is really hot and dry.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance.
Dz
But, but after 4 months, i had taken it to the dealer for schedule maintenance which as expected handed me a list of repairs needed to be done i. e. service + O2sensor replacement $550, drive belts replacement $200, catalytic converter x2 replacement $2461, rear main seal leak $1142, valve cover gasket replacement $548, radiator replacement $548, intake manifold $ 768. With discount we paid $5461 total.
Yesterday, we took the car for schedule II maintenance and paid almost $1000 and as expected we again got a list: coolant leak $1220, front control bushings $750, front crank seal $450, break and coolant flush $320. The car is driveable and there is no sign of trouble yet but there is a warning saying coolant is low. We opted not to have the recommended repaits done since it is not within our buget this month, but I need help, anybody who could recommend do this job for less or an independent technician in the Dallas, Tx area is greatly appreciate. I am a new BMW owner and need everyone's input. :confuse:
Reminds me of wind noise...has some high pitch noise in it along with flowing air noise.
After 30-45 mins or so of putting up with it the noise disappears for the rest of the day and shows up again the next morning after the car is warm again...
If I put the a/c fan on the second lowest speed it is drowned out...so it is faint but noticeable for people with normal or fine? hearing...anyone else notice that as well and it is normal for A/S?
Though all this the car has run just fine. I called my BMW Service Center and they say it's a software glitch and to bring the car in for a software update which takes 5,000 hours (or seems to); actually it's an all day affair.
Anyone else have this problem? If so, what was the cause? Also, after the iDrive tried to call BMW, it announced the call had failed. What does that mean?
As for your current problems, it sure sounds like the dealer is hosing you-for both scheduled maintenance and repairs. Why were the 02 sensors and cats replaced? Was the check engine light on? Were the cats rattling? As for the cost of an Inspection II, my independent BMW shop only charged me $700 to do the service on my wife's 528i-and that included new BMW brake pads on all four wheels. Now, your V8 would be a bit more, but certainly not over $300 more. As for the brake fluid/coolant flush, my BMW dealer only charged $143(BTW, the brake fluid only gets changed every two years while the coolant should be changed every three). I've owned my 1997 528i since 3/01 and it currently has 122000 miles on the clock; my total service and repair costs have averaged less than $800 per year-and that includes one set of tires.
As for the dealer's current attempt to shaft you, I'd want to know:
Just exactly where is that $1200 coolant leak?
How much oil is leaking past the front seal?
Why do the control arm bushings need replacement-is there a shimmy or vibration in the front end?
It really ticks me off when dealers treat service customers the way you have been treated. I hope this information will help make your BMW ownership experience considerably less expensive.
I am having some crazy electrical problems with my 1998 528i. The car has recently just been shutting down completely after I park. All the electrical system shuts down, Bad Battery? I just replaced the darn thing no more than 2-3 years ago. Now this is the crazy thing, after the car electrically completely shut down, I wanted to put my briefcase in the trunk since I could not even lock my doors, the trunk would not open.When I turned the trunk key lock, the car regenerated itself! All the electrical system kicked back on. What's Up with that?!?! Am I missing something? :confuse:
the fan. Now I know I wasn't going crazy.
Great information, thanks.
Martin
Run, don't walk, to the customer relations manager at the dealership. Take a summary of the dates, issues, number of days out of service and if the issue was resolved with you. I originally had a 2003 325i that was was in the dealer 8 times in 12 months for electrical, water in the car and transmission problems. :lemon: I kept complaining about my experience to the service manager but it went nowhere. I went to a Lemon Law lawyer here in CA. BMW agreed to take the car back. I replaced it with a 2005 530i and it has been flawless since taking delivery in late Jan. The first comment from the customer relations manager was "Why didn't you come to me in the first place?" Didn't know and wasn't told that she was there to help with these problems.
Good luck.
Earlier today, I had the V Belt and Air Conditioning belt replaced on my 99 528i, tonight, when I picked it up at my mechanic's after hours, after I started it, the Canadian "Check Engine Light" and the TrTransmissionafe Mode light were on, do these need to be reset, bebecausehe battery was didisconnecteduring the belt process, or do I now have a bigger problem. thanks Troy
This shop has been working on my car for a couple years adn was recommneded to me by another BMW owner. He has the equipment to read the codes. I thouge it strange that I woudl go from a belt problem to a Transmission problem, because when I took it in the tranny was fine. Originally the battery light was flashing, they check the starter, alternator, and battery and they were fine, when they looked at the belts, the V belt was cracked adn stretched and the AC belt was really cracked. I would agree I have a sensor problem and not a Transmission problem, I hope (-:
O2 sensors: is there any difference between Bosch universal and Bosch OEM besides the connector and $35? If not, seems sensible to use the universals and solder or crimp the OEM connectors to them
Spark plugs: The OE plug is NGK platinum with 4 prongs. These have performed perfectly for 100K miles, so I would ordinarily plan to install 6 new ones. But--I have always (well, since I bought the car at 60K) had mild detonation under acceleration between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Would a different plug help eliminate this?
Thanks for all your help!
2. The OEM plugs(assuming the plugs in your car are OEM) should not be causing detonation. I run 93 octane and have never had any problems. There must be another cause if the detonation is so bad that the DME can't eliminate it.