"Electronic locking/limited-slip rear differential" (straight from hummers web page)
But why does it also say LSD? Are they referring to the E-locker as an LSD?
I think ATRAC work just fine with LSD? LSD would allow more than 25% (50% with the central diff locked) power to a wheel without applying as much brakes (you don't have to drag the wheels anymore). It's just going to make an LSD more capable as the driver only has the option of braking all four wheels or the two rear wheels simultaneously, the computer will just be optimized for LSD (it's the same software program, it just wouldn't be worked as hard and would yield better results than just plain LSD or plain ATRAC)
On my '03 Sequoia I can lock the center diff in 4Hi or 4Lo. When I do this the VSC OFF light turns on. Maybe it was a change for '03? Haven't tried sticking it in the mud yet, but probably soon. Most of mine is beach and snow just need some free time to try it there, can't wait.
I've driven the H1 with the old and new systems in a demanding offroad course (factory obstacle test course) and they're both quite capable, actually. Surprisingly, I preferred the newer system with electronic intervention though that's unusual for me.
I've also done some extremely demanding offroad driving and as a general statement I'll comment that the electronic systems are road-appropriate but only good for mild offroad. This is generally perfect for 99.9999% of owners who, as was stated well above "don't have time to set up the vehicle when they hit a slick spot in ordinary driving".
Also, LSDs are actually very helpful when offroading contrary to an above statement. I've gotten through some of Moab's tougher trails with a completely stock vehicle that had only an LSD as a traction aid. I could walk the truck uphill with one rear tire gently spinning in the air, and with gentle parking brake use it darn near felt like a locker. I think it's safest to stick to generalities on this topic. The Hummer electronic system kicks butt on extreme stuff, and as noted some manual traction aids (Torsen mechanical diff) are relatively ineffective offroad where most manual traction aids shine - both counter to typical comments.
As a perfect illustration of "it depends", I was once challenged to a snowy hill climb by a military Humvee in my stock Montero ( factory rear locker, good snow tires). I kicked their butt soundly despite many advantages accruing to their vehicle, including the age old advantage of "it's not my vehicle, so I'm gonna beat the crap out of it to beat that guy"... So, a lot of stuff depends, but the biggest variable is often the experience and skill of the driver when going offroad.
My absence from the Town Hall can be explained by several factors and they all came together back in June when I took a vacation.
1. I got bored.
2. I have been in finance for almost 2 years now and don't have as much current information as I once did so there is less for me to comment upon.
3. I took up a new hobby. I've taken to building rifles and there is a bulletin board dedicated to home builders. Its kind of like Edmunds for battle rifles. Its been fun to learn from the experts and become more and more informed and able to comment on a new interest.
I appreciate the kind words here. I'll check in from time to time but I doubt I'll be as active as I once was.
Though I've searched this post I haven't found the right answer and I think Toyota has a glaring problem with their 4WD system. My truck is a 2001 4Runner SR5 auto (not a limited), w/ VSC and center diff lock. Here's my story: I went to Tahoe last winter, where the roads were nice and dry and I had no reason to put use 4WD. Parked it at my friends house on a (very) slight decline (backed into it) and overnight we got about of foot of snow. Went out the next morning, warmed up the truck, put it in drive and lo and behold the rear wheels bagan to slip and traction control cut the gas and VSC applied braking, etc etc. I had barely moved two feet and all forward progress was halted. SO, I "engaged" 4WD, only to have my 4WD dash icon flash and flash and flash and flash (and never engage because well, I wasn't rolling and the three feet forward and back I could move the truck wasn't allowing for engagement). Although I tried to go to 4Lo and engage the center diff lock to try and force VSC and Traction Control into "off modde", this of course wouldn't work because 4WD was not actually engaged. I had to get a push from 4 buddies out of this driveway and learned to always put the truck into 4WD *before* parking it for the night in snowy climes. My question: is this a normal experience or did I miss something in the operation manual about how to get the truck into 4WD? On the fly, the system is VERY sensitive to engagement and the quickest method I've found is to roll no gas, push button, blip throttle and get back off the gas to engage it (usually takes about 40 yards at 20mph, which seems very long). It can take 100 yards plus if I'm steady on the gas, accelerating or simply coasting while trying to engage and the act of giving it some throttle appears to speed up the process. You know, I'm not one to [non-permissible content removed] and I think on-the-fly 4WD systems are great, but I remember completely sticking my old Bronco numerous times in 2WD, manually locking the hubs and crawling out of just about everything. It would seem to me that the 4Runner doesn't have that ability once stuck due to all the electronic nannies that I'm glad are there to help protect my wife on a daily basis. But no doubt with some ability to spin or gain some momentum I could have made it out of that driveway. Any way to manually cancel the nannies in 2WD? Thanks, Matt
Sorry all (and thanks intmed99 for reminding me) - it would appear that way way WAY back in this post I asked the question and it was answered (well, I might add). Pls disregard and understand that I apparently haven't had enough coffee today... Makakio
My 92 Cherokee Limited would often take 50 to 100 yards to engage 4WD system with new tires on the rear but not the front. Backing it sometimes helped.
... hit the 4WD button and ease into the accelerator. Don't stomp it. Ease into it. This will do the trick almost every time. If that doesn't do the trick, turn off the vehicle and remove the key (trust me, this is important) and do it again, this time in reverse order. Put the thing in gear, ease into the throttle and then hit the 4WD button.
I wish I understood this better. Maybe it has something to do with time in addition to (rather than?) distance.
Yesterday I was at a long stop light, with the transmission in neutral. I remembered that it had been about a month since I'd used 4WD and that the manual recommended using it for 10 miles or so, at least once/month. I rotated the switch to the 4-Hi position and after several seconds of the dash light flashing, it went on steady, indicating 4WD. I then put the transmission in gear and drove away when the light changed. No problem.
In normal driving at speeds below 60 MPH it seems to usually take several seconds to switch. For my vehicle, at least, time seems to be a better guide than distance. As I said, I wish I understood this better.
If you're in RWD mode and wish to shift to 4WD mode the front wheels AND the rear (driven) wheels must move at relatively the same rate or the VSC will "kick in". If you're already on a slippery surface with no, or little, RWD traction then you're STUCK!!
I was able to ensure that both wheels were moving at the same rate simply because I was stopped. This approach would work on the most slippery surfaces.
It seemed to work anyway, as the 4WD light flashed and then turned on steady. I assume that meant I had shifted successfully.
Maybe I'll have to repeat the experiment a few times and see if I learn more.
Typically, shifting into 4WD requires engaging a "dog-clutch", a splined shaft, and if by happenstance the two parts are alligned when stopped they will oftentimes engage, but that will be something of a rarity.
More on this issue of shifting into 4WD. I tried shifting while at a stop, in gear. No luck--the lights just kept blinking. I shifted into neutral and in several seconds the blinking stopped and I was presumably in 4WD.
So I'm 2-for-2 on attempts to switch to 4WD in neutral at a stop. I'll experiment more when I can remember to do so.
After finally reading all 1179 posts on this board, I thought this would be a better title. Seriously, it is sad that this is the most entertaining thing I could find to do this weekend. Actually, I am "chomping at the bit" for fall and the first chance to really try out my new 4wd. My family has a long history of getting our 2wd vehicles good and stuck- from cars to pickups to tractors. I am confident I will find somewhere soon to prove my grandfather right, "A 4wd vehicle is very good at getting you stuck much further from any well maintained road".
I have a 1997 LX 450, 55,000 miles, excellent condition, never off road, extended warranty. This week, while shifting from reverse to drive I have begun to hear and feel a little extra drive train rotation before solid engagement. Kind of a "clunk". Will call dealer tomorrow. Any ideas?
I posted something similar to this in the Sequoia board but didn't get a reply. Should there be a difference in gas mileage between running in 4WD v. 2WD (referring to the 4WD Sequoia running in 2WD mode)? I've never heard either way and I'd probably have to run 5 or more tankfulls running entirely in each mode to determine if there was a difference.
Seems like a lotta trys from experts but as a non tech avaerage person who is really trying to make a determination about how the 03 4runner V8 4WD system works , I am more confused than ever. ANybody use straight talk and just lay it out for my dumb as to figure out? I wanna know how NOT to mess tthe tranny up. I know not to use 4wd on the freeway. Just the basics please would relally help And all the bashing, come on , please give me a break. If anyone wants to argue about Texas and whatever else, please do it somewhere else, so those of us who came to this board to find ot how to use our 03 V8 4WD the right way, can learn . so, Please just siimply explain this system to me . Just enough to get unstuck and not tear the thing to pieces. Thanks to whoever can successfully do this and finally end the confusion created here with all the wizards of 4wd flexing the brain and egos. i just need practical applications .
The V8 is always in 4WD. You may be looking at the center differential lock button. Don't mess with it unless you're really playing off road. Even then, you will probably find the conventional mode does everything you need it to. The system in the '03 Runner ensures that there is always power to all 4 wheels, with more being diverted to those with more traction.
Yep, I've only locked the center diff once in my V8 '03 4Runner, and that was offroad when slightly high-centered on a muddy surface. Locking the center diff is probably the only 'dangerous' operation for the system. It shouldn't be locked on dry pavement.
The only other thing you can do with the 4WD in the V8 is to put it in low range. This is also mainly useful for offroad, but I've used it a couple times in deep snow, too. This just makes your vehicle go slower for a given engine speed in each gear, resulting in better crawling ability. I don't think I've had my vehicle above about 20mph in 4LO.
Taking 2000 tlc on sand beaches on Cape Cod. Any recomendations, based on past experience, as to hi/low range, tire pressure, locked ctr diff of not, likelihood of getting stuck, etc. Have michelin ltx at's.
wwest: bug off, especially if you're not driving a toyota!
Just last week I took my 2003 4Runner V8 4WD on the beach on Martha's Vineyard. My suggestions would be 1) tire pressure to 15 psi, 2) lock the center diff, 3) keep in 4WD high, 4) keep your speed high, but reasonable (around 15 mph). When you stop, try not to hit the brake hard because that will cause you to dig in. When turning, try to turn gently; turning sharply will help cause you to dig in. If you do get stuck, try to back out of whereever you got stuck.
I have siimilar problem on my 2002PreRunner with only 15K miles on it. :-( Mechaninc sais that it's normal "transmisiion loosen up" which i think is not true.
Stay in the tracks. Don't go cutting a new trail. If you don't see any tire tracks somewhere, there's probably a reason. If you do see tire tracks, then someone already went there and didn't get stuck.
Comments
But why does it also say LSD? Are they referring to the E-locker as an LSD?
I think ATRAC work just fine with LSD? LSD would allow more than 25% (50% with the central diff locked) power to a wheel without applying as much brakes (you don't have to drag the wheels anymore). It's just going to make an LSD more capable as the driver only has the option of braking all four wheels or the two rear wheels simultaneously, the computer will just be optimized for LSD (it's the same software program, it just wouldn't be worked as hard and would yield better results than just plain LSD or plain ATRAC)
I've also done some extremely demanding offroad driving and as a general statement I'll comment that the electronic systems are road-appropriate but only good for mild offroad. This is generally perfect for 99.9999% of owners who, as was stated well above "don't have time to set up the vehicle when they hit a slick spot in ordinary driving".
Also, LSDs are actually very helpful when offroading contrary to an above statement. I've gotten through some of Moab's tougher trails with a completely stock vehicle that had only an LSD as a traction aid. I could walk the truck uphill with one rear tire gently spinning in the air, and with gentle parking brake use it darn near felt like a locker. I think it's safest to stick to generalities on this topic. The Hummer electronic system kicks butt on extreme stuff, and as noted some manual traction aids (Torsen mechanical diff) are relatively ineffective offroad where most manual traction aids shine - both counter to typical comments.
As a perfect illustration of "it depends", I was once challenged to a snowy hill climb by a military Humvee in my stock Montero ( factory rear locker, good snow tires). I kicked their butt soundly despite many advantages accruing to their vehicle, including the age old advantage of "it's not my vehicle, so I'm gonna beat the crap out of it to beat that guy"... So, a lot of stuff depends, but the biggest variable is often the experience and skill of the driver when going offroad.
IdahoDoug
tidester, host
Sorry.
tidester, host
tidester, host
1. I got bored.
2. I have been in finance for almost 2 years now and don't have as much current information as I once did so there is less for me to comment upon.
3. I took up a new hobby. I've taken to building rifles and there is a bulletin board dedicated to home builders. Its kind of like Edmunds for battle rifles. Its been fun to learn from the experts and become more and more informed and able to comment on a new interest.
I appreciate the kind words here. I'll check in from time to time but I doubt I'll be as active as I once was.
tidester, host
Would that be a violation of rules tidester or steve?
sclifford@kjtoyota.com
Thanks, Matt
Makakio
Yesterday I was at a long stop light, with the transmission in neutral. I remembered that it had been about a month since I'd used 4WD and that the manual recommended using it for 10 miles or so, at least once/month. I rotated the switch to the 4-Hi position and after several seconds of the dash light flashing, it went on steady, indicating 4WD. I then put the transmission in gear and drove away when the light changed. No problem.
In normal driving at speeds below 60 MPH it seems to usually take several seconds to switch. For my vehicle, at least, time seems to be a better guide than distance. As I said, I wish I understood this better.
[Hey Cliffy1, it's good to have you back!]
It seemed to work anyway, as the 4WD light flashed and then turned on steady. I assume that meant I had shifted successfully.
Maybe I'll have to repeat the experiment a few times and see if I learn more.
Typically, shifting into 4WD requires engaging a "dog-clutch", a splined shaft, and if by happenstance the two parts are alligned when stopped they will oftentimes engage, but that will be something of a rarity.
So I'm 2-for-2 on attempts to switch to 4WD in neutral at a stop. I'll experiment more when I can remember to do so.
Seriously, it is sad that this is the most entertaining thing I could find to do this weekend. Actually, I am "chomping at the bit" for fall and the first chance to really try out my new 4wd. My family has a long history of getting our 2wd vehicles good and stuck- from cars to pickups to tractors. I am confident I will find somewhere soon to prove my grandfather right, "A 4wd vehicle is very good at getting you stuck much further from any well maintained road".
Thanks to whoever can successfully do this and finally end the confusion created here with all the wizards of 4wd flexing the brain and egos. i just need practical applications .
Why don't you just read the manual? It explains how to use the system.
When was Texas bashed?
The only other thing you can do with the 4WD in the V8 is to put it in low range. This is also mainly useful for offroad, but I've used it a couple times in deep snow, too. This just makes your vehicle go slower for a given engine speed in each gear, resulting in better crawling ability. I don't think I've had my vehicle above about 20mph in 4LO.
wwest: bug off, especially if you're not driving a toyota!
tidester, host
Check out SUV for Beach Sand in the archives for lots of tips.
Steve, Host
I didn't have any problem.
only 15K miles on it. :-( Mechaninc sais that it's normal "transmisiion loosen up" which i think is not true.
Check www.aamco.com -
http://www.aamco.com/main/transmissiontrubleshtng/detailed_transm- issiontrubleshtng/transmissiontrublesht_guide.html#NOISE%20IN%20T- HE%20TRANSMISSION
they say it can be a problem with CV or U joints...
Finally, stay off the dune grass...
Reminds me of the story about the guy following taillights in a heavy fog at night....