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I would imagine that salespeople in any business realize that there is competition out there and a smart consumer will shop around to make sure they are getting a good deal. I am in sales and sometimes I win while other times I lose. I think it's important to be a graceful loser since any other action will just leave a bad taste in the customer's mouth and close the door to future business.
:mad:
I sent emails to the Internet Department of three local car dealers. Obtained two great and one not so good quote. Was then able to further negotiate down one quote and ended up about $700 below Edmunds invoice price (plus TTL) at Miramar Audi. The Internet Dept then asked me to complete deal with one of the sales people who showed us the car before, N. V. He is very knowledgeable.
Idiots like that go into sales thinking that everyone will buy and not compare. Loser, typical loser, dont worry, he will not be there in 3 to 6 months. That is usually the life cycle of crappy car salesmen
There's no doubt in my mind that the dealer (or CarMax) can get body work done for much less than I can, which suggests that I should not try to fix the car up before trading in; but this doesn't mean that they won't nevertheless demand a significant discount over what the car would otherwise be worth.
Any thoughts on whether or not it is worth having this work done myself?
6 cd changer
garage door opener
blue tooth
ice silver metallic/on black
(keep in mind I did lease with the option to buy because I plan on buying the car so I wanted to split up my down payments/what interest I owe)
$6k down
$329 a month/35 months (first month free)
buy out price $20,500, should be able to negotiate it down to $18,500
I will usually bargain a while with 3 or 4 dealers until I get the best price among them (including internet pricing). When it comes to crunch time and I prefer one dealer but he doesn't have the lowest price, I will share better offers from other dealers.
I keep going until I have a deal which no other dealer will match or beat.
1. There is really no such thing as a "down payment" on a lease and I wish that the federal government whould make such terminology illegal! You are paying for the value of the care (plus interest) that you are "using" over your 36 months and the 6K you gave the dealer is simply prepaying that amount. If you divide 6K by 35 months (=$171) your payments are really $329 + $171 = $500 per month. You could have kept the 6K in the bank and withdrawn $171 a month to make the payment and at least you would have made a few bucks in interest over the course of the lease!
2. Regarding the "buy out". This is a guaranteed fixed price in a closed end lease and in my 25 years of leasing I have never seen any situation under which this could be "negotiated down". This amount is in the contract and is fixed. If the car is worth this amount or more you may elect to buy it but if it is worth less you just turn it in and the leasing company takes the loss. Audi residuals in my experience are pretty accurate and generally the car is worth a grand or two more than they estimate. If you know of any leasing companies that "negotate down" the buy out please let me know!!
1) The "down payment" on a lease does reduce the CAP cost, and therefore the amount subject to the money factor.. So, it does save money, in much the same way as a true downpayment on a loan. However, there are other very good reasons for not making a cap cost reduction, such as the possibility of total loss or theft, in which the whole amount may be lost. Just as in a loan, a big downpayment doesn't save as much interest as most people think... It isn't a 30 year mortgage, after all.
2) More and more, banks are negotiating residuals... This is what happens when the used car market implodes and cars returning from lease are worth many thousands less than the residual. Mercedes has been knocking $12K-$17K off the residuals of their returning R-Class vehicles, and BMW has been dropping $5K or more off X5s and other BMWs.. These are just two examples.. Some banks absolutely won't negotiate (i.e. Honda), and others require you to fight your way past a couple of levels of customer service, all insisting that they don't negotiate (but, they will).
Consumers aren't entitled to a negotiation of their residual value, but that doesn't mean that a bank will ignore the chance to take a smaller loss at lease end.
regards,
kyfdx
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Now, on the flip side, I am also shocked at the number of dealerships that are closing. I travel for a living and it takes me around the country. Scary stuff indeed.
Cost break down:
includes a $500 loyalty discount
Base price, $29,700
Prestige $6,700
dest charge $ 825
marketing $ 300
fees $ 285
discount $ (500)
Total $37,310
Great car and cant wiy to get it next week. any thoughts are prices paid for similar models....
Ibis white / black, Sportspackage, Bluetooth
out the door price of $33,900 in full amount of CASH.
Is this worth to buy?
North Miami, FL
The prestige package has a price of $6909 and the navigation has an optional price of $2,326. It is my understanding that the prestige package INCLUDES the navigation system. Is this correct?
I was quoted $41,942 for an A4 2.0T quattro (auto) with the prestige package.
Does this seem high or in line with TMV?
Anchor service has been atrocious. I had one minor issue- the wrong rear mats were put in my A8- and they refuse to correct it. The sale rep, sales manager, and Chairman of the delaership all refused to return calls or emails.
From a service perspective, I have had a great experience at Riverside, which serviced my A6 for the last 3 years and now my A8.
gross/adjusted cap cost: 37,600
50% residual
.0009 mf
36 months, 12k per year
This came out to $550 including tax in CA. only paid TTL and first month at drive off.
I had to haggle quite a while as the monthly cost was/is too high for these cap costs/residual/mf. I kept telling them that it should be lower. I told them if they got to $550/month with nothing down I would take it. I don't care how they massage the numbers. They met it. I think I could've/should've tried to get it lower....maybe $530/month. Once I got the paperwork, I see the disparity between cap cost/residual/mf and the payments. There is a $3k "rent charge" they were adding. This was pretty much adding to my cap cost yet wasn't listed as that.
I think I got a pretty good deal...though it was because they are closing their doors next week and because every car they have was keyed a couple months ago by some punks at night. Pretty much every car got repainted...including the one I got. It looks like a good paint job. Unfortunately the paint job is warranted by the painting place (for 10 years) and not Audi. But with a 3-year lease, I expect things to work out.
They still have ~7 prestiges left at MSRP ~$44k (like mine). They have 1 prem plus for $38k MSRP.
I am a first time new car buyer and need your help desperately.
Today I got a deal for A4 prestige 2.0t quattro beige interior w/ wood trim:
MSRP: 41225
SALE:37850
License & Reg: 125
Dealer Prep:599
Audi Care:(650) (they throw this in for free)
tax rate: 7% (FL)
OTD: 41708.47
I did not make the deal right way and I called them back before they closed and got the final OTD at 41500.
I need to deposit $1000 Monday and will get the car Saturday. The dealership is 2.5 hours away. For the past 3 days I have been dealing with 5 different dealers over the phone within 300 miles area and this one is best I can get.
Do you think this price is hard to beat? If I wait a couple months can I get the same car with a significant better price?
Also I have a 04 Suv to trade in, how do I negotiate the trade-in price w/ dealer? I do not want sell them the car too much under KBB.
Last, is that possible to get a better APR rate from Audi finance than they listed if I have a very good credit score?? What should I pay extra attention when I go in and sign the paperwork?
Thank you all very very much in advance!
The other 4 dealship all dropped out the competition when they heard I got the out the door price for 41500. I was able to cut 200 off from the 599 dealer prep fee. I thought that part is their only profit for this deal. They don't have the car on the lot need to transport it from the port. Plus from the data I collected from the forum I thought this was pretty much close to the deal.
Please let me how much room I have for negotiation. Thanks bunchies.
Also, I notice that the newer Audis (Q5, A6) have the LED taillights. Anyone have rumors that the 2010 A4 might have this as well?
Remembering I love my car, it does have a few flaws, one of which is road noise. Having driven the same Infiniti for 11 yrs, I thought a new car, not to mention a new luxury car, was going to be super quiet, especially given the thud sound the doors make when they close. Sounds solid and air-tight. Fact is, the road noise is worse than my 1997 Infiniti J30 the day I traded it in.
Also, I'm probably shorter than your average German, only 5'2", and have tried for 4 months now to get my side-view mirror in a position where I can see out of it withouth it whistling when going over 50; no luck.
I'll never buy another car w/out driving all to way to my house again. I mean, it's quiet a distance, but it should have been common sense since those are the roads I'll be traveling most.
Good luck!
P.S. Might want to get a new radar detector if you decide to go w/ the new Audi because they're fast and tons of fun to drive!!!
Best I got before was a window tint + weather mats + paint sealant...
MSRP 40,540
A4 Quattro / Tiptronic / Sport Package / AudiCare
Agreed offer was Invoice -1,115
Paid Invoice - 2,615 (including 1,500 loyalty cash)
Drive-Out Price (taxes & fees) was 39,270
48mo at 1.9%
It makes a difference to buy at the end of the month... Audi really eager to earn your business... much more than on previous occassions...
Audi also aware of BMW and MB current offers and incentives...
Good luck
I have contacted several dealers in the Southeast, and this seems to be the best offer I can find. Dealers spread few and far between down here.
Audi A4 2.0 with prestige package, Ibis White ext, black interior.
MSRP 40,825
Invoice per Edumnds 38,397
Offer 37,400
Out the door at 39,400.
This sound like a fair deal?
They basically were not willing to come off of price at the time I was looking to buy (car finally came in, in mid-Nov '08). I spent untold hours researching, and regardless of what deal anyone is getting anywhere in this country, I did not find Audi dealerships willing to negotiate much down south.
As a matter of fact, the sales manager who had had my deposit since April (yes, 8 months) sent me packing when I told him I could get the car for $500 less out of state -- actually credited back my credit card.
So the final deal I got was $1,000 off due to a salesman error, who is no longer employed there, and then an additional $500 off.
They knew I was talking to Infiniti, but apparently business isn't that bad down here.
I love my car, though!!
inv: 35,701
OTD: 35,901 + TTL
this is in houston. anything i should look out for in these first few weeks?
this is my first audi, ive been an acura man my whole life!
I am thinking over the following deal which I think is a very good one.
2009 A4 Quattro Cabriolet Special addition with Conveniance Package (ie no nav)
10K miles/year for 36 months
MSRP 45,975
Sale Price 41,216
Residual 53%
MF .00003
$2,819 due at signing (including taxes, first month, DMV etc)
$460/month
Is this in fact a good deal?
09 A4 Premium Plus, MSRP $37875, last deal given - $35575 (~300$ above listed invoice (edmunds, etc)).
Add AudiCare at $740.
Trade-in $2500.
Lease APR 2.53% (MF 0.00105).
Comes out at $458X36mos at 12K miles/yr.
Reasonable deal or needs more work?
TTL extra out of pocket.
Would like to finalize on Monday (end of month, end of quarter).
$200 deposit given to acquire the car in color I like - will be there Monday.
Appreciate any help.
Residual = 52% with Audi care. MF .00071. Bank fee 725. Pd taxes, tag, 3 yr registration and first month up front.
Cap cost was $37203 = $38825 invoice - $1622 (includes $750 "loyalty dollars") Dealer also reimbursed me in full via check for amount of last 2 months on my present lease. What da ya think?
I will soon go shopping for a new 09 A4 either Baton Rouge or New Orleans most likely in Baton Rouge.. Is there any suggestion or tip I should know about before I talk to anyone of those guys.