Herb Chambers in Seekonk. They are leading with a price of about $20.5, similar to Weymouth Honda at about $20.2. (Weymouth Honda also has a great lease calculator that I learned about on this site.)
I have a feeling they would go even lower if I had waited.
For those on the fence between the 12 and 13 Accords, the premier geek site for Honda fans has some cool photos of a real 13 sedan at a kroger's in Ohio. The rest of the site is equally fascinating. beware it may become addicting.
Only 1 1/2 years out of chapter 7 bankruptcy and 2 months remaining on my 2010 LX-P that was 15k miles over and had bald tires, I was approved (customer since 2005). Leased a 2012 Accord SE $0 down with 15k miles per year for $308 per month and they paid the first months payment. Yes, that is higher than most but rolled the negative equity into the new payment....which was still $40 cheaper per month than my old payment, so I am happy
Thanks. I am in the same position and want to wait for 2013. Received offer of $17,000 out the door (includes $4500 trade in) from Freehold Honda for LX
Hi What do you mean by 'including 4500 trade in' Does that mean that the actual out the door price then is 17k+4500= 21500 final price for honda accord Lx 2012 ?
Not sure if that is a good offer (I totally missed the 4500.00 trade-in) and based on the numbers I got on the 2012 Honda Accord SE. OTD on the 2012 Accord SE was 21.310 + accessories (based on car/color selected and factory options installed). 21,310.00 was OTD on standard configuration, however I have not made a purchase. I know some of you may ask, Sale price was 18,595 + destination (790 i think), +taxt (7%), + doc (299) + reg. and plates. Hopefully no B/S here, but again, not gone through with purchase yet, so be cautious at take this info with a grain of salt. My next best offer on the SE has been $21.900.00 thanks J
I am sorry, may be this has been discussed, but i am not sure what you mean by $4500 trade in. Was there an incentive like that? or was that the value of your trade in? thanks
** the 4500 trade in was related to someone's post earlier, so forget about that number. **
These are my numbers on the Deal I closed today on the 2012 Honda Accord SE, no options at all. By the way, test drive 2 cars as the first one did have some steering wheel vibrations at 60-70 miles/hour. By the way so did the Mazda 3 I test drove. Route 23 Honda in NJ was the dealership I worked with.
Sale Price: 19,756.42 Doc: 249.00 Tax: 1382.95 Cash Down payment: (-205.07) (these were award $$ from dealer) DMV: 316.70 OTD: 21,500.00
Almost forgot, initial OTD from the dealer on this car was $22,600.00, funny how things work if you're persistent. Financed the whole thing at .9%, came at $366.59 / month for 5 years. I think I did pretty good, considering MSRP on this car is 24780, that is 20% off in my book, happy camper.
Purchased over Labor Day...a 2012 Accord LX in Sacramento Area, CA. Tax here is 7.75%
$19600 OTD on a manual 5 speed.
I was happy with this price, and I am sure the dealer was as well, with the 2013 hitting soon. My other Accord is a 1996 with 283,000 miles. I just thought it was time to take advantage of the prices due to new 2013's and the offer of .9% financing.
I am so happy. Yesterday my Honda Accord SE was delivered perfectly to my home.
I purchased it from Gerald Jones Honda after following these posts. Thank you Edmunds and everyone on this forum. Special thanks to the previous person who posted about these guys.
I got the 0.9% financing for 60 months and paid 19580 for my SE. Also got a $300 gas card and a cruise for two people. I dealt with Donald Ivey also and he was awesome!!!!!!! Above and beyond any other dealer! I talked to a lot these last weeks and listened to a lot of BS but none from Gerald Jones. They even delivered my car out of state to Tennessee free of charge.
No one in my state could match their price!!!! Thank God for the internet. Thank you Donald Ivey!!!!!!!
I will take a guess here that taxes are not paid yet as it is an out of state sale. Not sure about dmv, maybe that is additional also, still a good price though. Hope the car drives well, took me two test drives to find the accord that had no vibrations on the steering wheel at 60-70, love the car now. Best of luck, Julian.
I helped my friend negotiate a deal for 2012 Accord LX automatic, for $19,300 out the door, all taxes and fees paid. Approx breakdown of total: * Car price + destination : $17,577 * Dealer doc fee ..............: $299 * Tags, inspection, etc..... : $325 * Texas sales tax (6.25%): $1099
No dealer add-on. I contacted about 10 or so dealers around the wider Dallas-FW area and into OK state. Mcdavid Honda in Frisco was the winner with best price ($19,300 OTD) & inventory. Freeman Honda was second with $19,500 OTD. Offers from other dealers were $19.7, $19.9, $20K, $21K etc.
Not too much. But that is subjective because I think 3 day of discussions is not too much. Over the weekend the dealers are slammed with walk-in customers. For best price, negotiate mid-week (Tue-Thu) with internet team. Expect 3-days of price discussions. * Day-1 dealer vets out your interest from 1000s of queries they receive * Day-2 they start offering decent deal * Day-3, if you are still talking to dealer they know you are serious - best deals come out.
EX-Ls are hard to sell. If I was shopping I would aim for a 30% discount off the price excl. TTL
Let me touch on the numbers/car before rambling about my situation. In searching for a car, I came across the knowledge that the 2013 Accord is a total redesign and so obviously great deals are to be had for the 2012. A dealer I walked into was showing me some offers he was "allowed" to make after mentioning that he doesn't work on commission like the rest of the salesman. I guess he could be telling the truth but it sure sounded like just another pitch/lie from another salesman. As it ended up the SE was discounted so much that it was practically the same price as the LX. He quoted me a sales price of $22,100.
Through my employer I found out that I have access to TrueCar, which many of you are probably experienced with, but it isn't the same numbers as on the TrueCar website without going through the portal in our perks site, because there are even lower numbers being given, which must be some type of corporate discount. It shows me an estimated price of $20,648 which I had originally planned to target and realistically not settle for less than by contacting a few dealers. But that is before taxes/fees and now that I found this forum and saw some who got OTD prices that are even better in some instances, I realize I need to get some more help and doing a few weeks of research online and going to a couple dealers far from makes me an expert in getting the best deal. I've recently embarked on an exciting business venture, that I'm quite optimistic about, so my financial situation isn't ideal in terms of discretionary income with respect to being able to purchase a car, so I am desperately trying to prevent from paying anything more than as close to the best possible deal I could find out there. So I hope you all can help.
I am very new to the car shopping/negotiating experience and I'm horribly unsure what to believe or expect to pay. I have a lease that is going back in a little over a week and have been trying everything I could to find out as much information as possible to get a good deal and not be ripped off by dealer's lies. Recently one dealer offered me a sign and drive lease for $279 a month telling me they were losing $2k on the deal after I said that was over my budget. Within 3 minutes, without even negotiating, they came back with an offer for $199! How on earth am I supposed to know how low they'd really go with that kind of jump? This is but a glimpse of what I've experienced (like most of you as well I'm more than sure), but sparing you all the experiences I've already had that led me to not be sure what to trust, I'm glad I've come across this forum as it seems many of you have a great deal of knowledge, experience, and just as importantly, are willing to help others like me!
As a business person, the part eating away at me in this whole thing is the one thing I do know is that even if a dealer sold a car at invoice, this doesn't represent their true cost. Furthermore, even if they sold it at their actual true cost, they would still be in position to make money because of manufacturer incentives and the like...which is all the more true for high volume dealerships.
I've been considering negotiating the lowest possible selling price on the car, doing a lease deal off of it and then buying the car out afterwards to keep the payments manageable right now as I'm really looking to keep as much of my capital in my business as possible. But perhaps you'd say that's not something that will be a good option. I am aware I will pay interest fees twice in the lease and then in the buyout (if I needed to finance it), but if the interest is low enough, it's worth the extra little bit to have it stretched over time in a much more manageable payment. But I'll let you all suggest what you think is best. For the record though, the lease deal I was offered by that one dealer the other day had the following:
Last question, and I apologize for this being SO long/exhaustive, but if better deals are to be had in other states, are there options other than going there to personally drive the car away, or would they likely end up costing more than the savings? Also, might be a dumb question, but taxes are pretty high in NY where I live, if I got the deal in another state, do I pay those taxes even though I'd be registering the car in NY??
Thank you to any and all in advance, I'm so confused/anxious by all this! I appreciate you already if you've read this long-winded post
Firstly, Truecar is a true ripoff! They represent dealers and the prices they show do not consider those dealerships thatsell vehicles below dealer invoice! Second, I would send emails to internet managers in the Washington DC, Maryland, Virginia area- Criswell, Oursman , Shockly, and others. I have seen pricing as low as 18,900 (before shipping and TTY). OTD pricing of under $21,000 for 2012 Honda Accord SE. These dealerships will do all the paperwork for you and pay the New York Taxes their.
I live in CT, bought my accord SEin Maryland (Oursman). I followed a bunch of posts that were in here and saved well over $2,000 from what I could have paid in CT.
Thanks for the info. That makes sense about Truecar, though it still seemed better than just aiming for invoice price.
This is probably a stupid question, but again, I have no experience with this kind of thing so any help is awesome, but what is the best strategy for targeting the price point and negotiating for it? I mean, it's got to be more ideal to have a number in mind that's realistically achievable and just charge for that, no? From my little experience, they try to act like 10 cents below MSRP is a steal, so I'd imagine pushing for something lower arbitrarily could get kind of tough.
Also, should I just call or go through online for the dealers out of state? IS one way particularly better than the other?
Hello, I'm considering purchasing a 2012 Honda Accord LX and I've gotten a few dealership quotes online. They seem to hover around $19,000 (OTD price would be around 21000 I think). Since the launch date for the 2013 models is so close, is this a reasonable price to pay for an 2012 LX? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Not sure of your location, but I got an SE for 21,500 OTD (see details/breakdown one or two pages before). You should aim lower on the LX or just get the SE, 22K SE out the door should be able to get easy. Got mine at month end, mid week.
I plan to buy a 2012 EX-L soon, and am shopping around for quotes. The best that I've got so far is ~$25K in the Bay Area. Edmunds TMV for this car is $23.4K. I'd like to get a sense of what people have paid for this car recently. Thanks!
I plan to buy either an 2012 LX auto or SE in the Ft Lauderdale area. Any details on most recent pricing and specific dealerships/salesman is appreciated.
Invoice is not lowest price. You also have "hold backs" $700, then also Consider the car is leftover by September take off a few grand more. So Karl might be 30,000 on exl v6 but a good quote in September for a 2012 accord is 25,495 excluding tax and tags
That's helpful information. Any way to really calculate what a good target offer would be, or is that just a guess? With the 2013 Accord redesign, I feel like incredible deals could be had, but have no idea what exactly that translates to.
The 25495 was an actual quote from dealer here in downingtown PA. Do as much research as you can before you walk in the showroom. I found email a much better way to negotiate because it takes out the personal emotion and their sales tactics. Not everyone is a confident Negotiator- I am not. But when I write I can careless what he/she thinks about my words. Best tactic is to play them against another dealer. Give them a specific number you received so they can beat it. Keep the conversation going - over a few weeks even. The longer your conversation the more serious he'll know you are and the more willing he will offer you the lowest price. You should have the price worked out before you walk in the showroom. Real power in negotiating over email. And if you don't feel respected over the Internet then just imagine how you will be treated in the showroom. When another dealer can't match the price then you have a good offer. What car model & trim are you looking for?
Yea, that makes sense. I'm looking at the Accord SE, but I've seen some lower prices on the EX and EX-L. Basically, from SE up, whatever the best deal I can get is. I'm targeting the SE cause I wouldn't imagine it's good for negotiation to have multiple trims in the discussion, but I don't technically know that for sure. Realistically, I'm hoping to get it done sooner than later because as 2013's come out there will be great deals on 2012 to be had, but stock will be depleting as well, so options like color will become more difficult to obtain.
Yes agreed - now is time buy the 2012 b4 inventory goes. V6 is About 2400 more don't know exactly. Look through older posts you might find some quotes -good luck
Initial impressions: Good job, Honda! The car: EX-L V6.
I found the ride smooth on most surfaces, though highway concrete slab seams and similar short, sharp bumps are both heard and felt. Doubt it would be an issue for most. It is certainly quieter than the last few Honda sedans I have driven - even with the moonroof in the vent position, as I typically drive, all year round. I found it to feel agile and responsive. The electric steering felt fine, to me.
The V6 is smooth and certainly has enough grunt – and combined with the 34 MPG highway EPA rating, is an impressive engine- again [ still ]. The new 6-speed transmission generally works well.
I found the seats and driving position quite comfortable – and had no issue with the headrest. NVH was well under control. [ I had the stereo turned off the whole drive. ] The big horizontal bar graph of instant MPG in the center of the speedometer I find useless.
One oddity noticed – several times, on a winding back road, the LDW yellow light in the dash [ accompanied by a warning chime ] displayed. Although I and the salesperson both saw this as LOW [ suspecting a PDI oversight = low tire pressure . ]
I certainly hope this is something that can be permanently turned off?? For me, it was annoying, distracting & NOT helpful!
The other issue, for me is how Honda groups equipment and color offerings for the 2013. I would really prefer the EX-L equipment level [ minimum to have the V6 and 6-speed automatic], but without the LDW, the Blindspot camera and the Backup camera – for example.
Also, the Sedan is simply not available with the V6 and the paddle shifters. I have come to use the paddle shifters on my current coupe a lot – I enjoy the extra measure of control they offer. It would be very difficult for me to give up that aspect. The paddle shifters are only available on the 4 cylinder CVT Sport Sedan. Not even available on the ‘range topping’ V6 Touring Sedan. According to online information, the Coupe V6 does offer the paddle shifters – but most every exterior color offered on the Coupe comes only with a black interior. Not something I prefer, very impractical here near Hotlanta. My ideal Honda seems unlikely to be assembled anytime soon.
[ EX-L V6 Automatic Sedan, paddle shifters, blue or red exterior, gray interior. ] [ sigh ] - Ray I do like the car, quite a lot, but . .
Sorry haven't been on for awhile. Went to Freehold Honda today to check out the 2013 Accords....looks very nice and LX drives comfortably. Was quoted $24,505 out the door.
So decided to see what I could get on the 2012 models, was offered $27,000 out the door on the EX-L.
Comments
I have a feeling they would go even lower if I had waited.
http://vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=1087630
this is the Accord LX manual you talking about? Which dealer gave you 17K OTD please?
Thanks,
Julian
LX Automatic at Freehold Honda on Route 9.
I prefer the EX but want to wait for the 2013 models to see what it feels like and the prices.
These are my numbers on the Deal I closed today on the 2012 Honda Accord SE, no options at all. By the way, test drive 2 cars as the first one did have some steering wheel vibrations at 60-70 miles/hour. By the way so did the Mazda 3 I test drove. Route 23 Honda in NJ was the dealership I worked with.
Sale Price: 19,756.42
Doc: 249.00
Tax: 1382.95
Cash Down payment: (-205.07) (these were award $$ from dealer)
DMV: 316.70
OTD: 21,500.00
Almost forgot, initial OTD from the dealer on this car was $22,600.00, funny how things work if you're persistent. Financed the whole thing at .9%, came at $366.59 / month for 5 years. I think I did pretty good, considering MSRP on this car is 24780, that is 20% off in my book, happy camper.
Hope this helps,
Julian
$19600 OTD on a manual 5 speed.
I was happy with this price, and I am sure the dealer was as well, with the 2013 hitting soon. My other Accord is a 1996 with 283,000 miles. I just thought it was time to take advantage of the prices due to new 2013's and the offer of .9% financing.
I purchased it from Gerald Jones Honda after following these posts. Thank you Edmunds and everyone on this forum. Special thanks to the previous person who posted about these guys.
I got the 0.9% financing for 60 months and paid 19580 for my SE. Also got a $300 gas card and a cruise for two people.
I dealt with Donald Ivey also and he was awesome!!!!!!! Above and beyond any other dealer! I talked to a lot these last weeks and listened to a lot of BS but none from Gerald Jones.
They even delivered my car out of state to Tennessee free of charge.
No one in my state could match their price!!!! Thank God for the internet.
Thank you Donald Ivey!!!!!!!
* Car price + destination : $17,577
* Dealer doc fee ..............: $299
* Tags, inspection, etc..... : $325
* Texas sales tax (6.25%): $1099
No dealer add-on. I contacted about 10 or so dealers around the wider Dallas-FW area and into OK state. Mcdavid Honda in Frisco was the winner with best price ($19,300 OTD) & inventory. Freeman Honda was second with $19,500 OTD. Offers from other dealers were $19.7, $19.9, $20K, $21K etc.
* Day-1 dealer vets out your interest from 1000s of queries they receive
* Day-2 they start offering decent deal
* Day-3, if you are still talking to dealer they know you are serious - best deals come out.
EX-Ls are hard to sell. If I was shopping I would aim for a 30% discount off the price excl. TTL
Through my employer I found out that I have access to TrueCar, which many of you are probably experienced with, but it isn't the same numbers as on the TrueCar website without going through the portal in our perks site, because there are even lower numbers being given, which must be some type of corporate discount. It shows me an estimated price of $20,648 which I had originally planned to target and realistically not settle for less than by contacting a few dealers. But that is before taxes/fees and now that I found this forum and saw some who got OTD prices that are even better in some instances, I realize I need to get some more help and doing a few weeks of research online and going to a couple dealers far from makes me an expert in getting the best deal. I've recently embarked on an exciting business venture, that I'm quite optimistic about, so my financial situation isn't ideal in terms of discretionary income with respect to being able to purchase a car, so I am desperately trying to prevent from paying anything more than as close to the best possible deal I could find out there. So I hope you all can help.
I am very new to the car shopping/negotiating experience and I'm horribly unsure what to believe or expect to pay. I have a lease that is going back in a little over a week and have been trying everything I could to find out as much information as possible to get a good deal and not be ripped off by dealer's lies. Recently one dealer offered me a sign and drive lease for $279 a month telling me they were losing $2k on the deal after I said that was over my budget. Within 3 minutes, without even negotiating, they came back with an offer for $199! How on earth am I supposed to know how low they'd really go with that kind of jump? This is but a glimpse of what I've experienced (like most of you as well I'm more than sure), but sparing you all the experiences I've already had that led me to not be sure what to trust, I'm glad I've come across this forum as it seems many of you have a great deal of knowledge, experience, and just as importantly, are willing to help others like me!
As a business person, the part eating away at me in this whole thing is the one thing I do know is that even if a dealer sold a car at invoice, this doesn't represent their true cost. Furthermore, even if they sold it at their actual true cost, they would still be in position to make money because of manufacturer incentives and the like...which is all the more true for high volume dealerships.
I've been considering negotiating the lowest possible selling price on the car, doing a lease deal off of it and then buying the car out afterwards to keep the payments manageable right now as I'm really looking to keep as much of my capital in my business as possible. But perhaps you'd say that's not something that will be a good option. I am aware I will pay interest fees twice in the lease and then in the buyout (if I needed to finance it), but if the interest is low enough, it's worth the extra little bit to have it stretched over time in a much more manageable payment. But I'll let you all suggest what you think is best. For the record though, the lease deal I was offered by that one dealer the other day had the following:
Sales Price: 22,100
Residual $13,800
Money Factor .00038
$250/month
Last question, and I apologize for this being SO long/exhaustive, but if better deals are to be had in other states, are there options other than going there to personally drive the car away, or would they likely end up costing more than the savings? Also, might be a dumb question, but taxes are pretty high in NY where I live, if I got the deal in another state, do I pay those taxes even though I'd be registering the car in NY??
Thank you to any and all in advance, I'm so confused/anxious by all this! I appreciate you already if you've read this long-winded post
I live in CT, bought my accord SEin Maryland (Oursman). I followed a bunch of posts that were in here and saved well over $2,000 from what I could have paid in CT.
Anyone have any ideas on the best dealer, also any ideas on target price would be very helpful as well.
Thanks,
This is probably a stupid question, but again, I have no experience with this kind of thing so any help is awesome, but what is the best strategy for targeting the price point and negotiating for it? I mean, it's got to be more ideal to have a number in mind that's realistically achievable and just charge for that, no? From my little experience, they try to act like 10 cents below MSRP is a steal, so I'd imagine pushing for something lower arbitrarily could get kind of tough.
Also, should I just call or go through online for the dealers out of state? IS one way particularly better than the other?
Thanks!
Consider the car is leftover by September take off a few grand more.
So Karl might be 30,000 on exl v6 but a good quote in September for a 2012 accord is 25,495 excluding tax and tags
What do you think? Think I should shop around more?
A good deal. Im assuming ur taxes r 6%
may i know is that the otd price of 20300 or? were there options to choose from for the SE? thanks
Dealer had several.
[ Details later. ]
- Ray
Northeast of Hotlanta....
The car: EX-L V6.
I found the ride smooth on most surfaces, though highway concrete slab seams and similar short, sharp bumps are both heard and felt. Doubt it would be an issue for most. It is certainly quieter than the last few Honda sedans I have driven - even with the moonroof in the vent position, as I typically drive, all year round. I found it to feel agile and responsive. The electric steering felt fine, to me.
The V6 is smooth and certainly has enough grunt – and combined with the 34 MPG highway EPA rating, is an impressive engine- again [ still ]. The new 6-speed transmission generally works well.
I found the seats and driving position quite comfortable – and had no issue with the headrest. NVH was well under control. [ I had the stereo turned off the whole drive. ] The big horizontal bar graph of instant MPG in the center of the speedometer I find useless.
One oddity noticed – several times, on a winding back road, the LDW yellow light in the dash [ accompanied by a warning chime ] displayed. Although I and the salesperson both saw this as LOW [ suspecting a PDI oversight = low tire pressure . ]
I certainly hope this is something that can be permanently turned off??
For me, it was annoying, distracting & NOT helpful!
The other issue, for me is how Honda groups equipment and color offerings for the 2013. I would really prefer the EX-L equipment level [ minimum to have the V6 and 6-speed automatic], but without the LDW, the Blindspot camera and the Backup camera – for example.
Also, the Sedan is simply not available with the V6 and the paddle shifters. I have come to use the paddle shifters on my current coupe a lot – I enjoy the extra measure of control they offer. It would be very difficult for me to give up that aspect. The paddle shifters are only available on the 4 cylinder CVT Sport Sedan. Not even available on the ‘range topping’ V6 Touring Sedan. According to online information, the Coupe V6 does offer the paddle shifters – but most every exterior color offered on the Coupe comes only with a black interior. Not something I prefer, very impractical here near Hotlanta.
My ideal Honda seems unlikely to be assembled anytime soon.
[ EX-L V6 Automatic Sedan, paddle shifters, blue or red exterior, gray interior. ]
[ sigh ]
- Ray
I do like the car, quite a lot, but . .
Sorry haven't been on for awhile. Went to Freehold Honda today to check out the 2013 Accords....looks very nice and LX drives comfortably. Was quoted $24,505 out the door.
So decided to see what I could get on the 2012 models, was offered $27,000 out the door on the EX-L.
Any thoughts?