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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • jax89jax89 Posts: 4
    ive noticed that when i go to try to start my car sometimes and it doesnt start, if i shift the gear down all the way up like twice and then take my key out the ignition and off the chain and its single(like just that key not the other ones its with) then it starts.
  • jerry183jerry183 Posts: 5
    edited August 2012
    My son has a 1997 infiniti i30 and unfortunately the alarm keeps going off no matter what or when!
    Neighbors are about to run us out of town and don't blame them frankly!
    I would like to disable this forever so wondering if can just pull the black anti-theft fuse out of the box under the hood or is there something else I need to do. Am inserting pic. with top of box off for reference and fuse below. I do see wires coming out of bottom of the fuse so not sure if I should mess with this and our neighbors and us would surely appreciate your help. Thanks so much!
  • Hi all. So after reading through this forum I am still unsure what is causing this. This flickering occurs at night while using my headlights. It also seems to only start after about 10+ minutes of driving. It happened again and I noticed that the flickering is less intermittent, meaning the lights are staying lit a little longer.

    I notice no engine/performance differences while the lights are flickering/emitted.

    I had just replaced my MAF prior to this new problem.

    Alternator was replaced 2.5 years ago.

    Battery & Alternator tested fine at AAdvance Auto, and the guy could see something wrong with my car and said it was probably a short?

    I have about 170k miles on it. I'm due for an oil change so when I drop it off at the mechanic I'd like to tell him about the issue. If it's a short is it better off to just wait until it actually shuts down? Otherwise, I may be throwing bad money at it trying to fix things that actually don't need to be fixed. I realize it's an old car and just having it run me to and from work is pretty much it's only purpose, although it's still a sharp car.

    Is it something related to the MAF? I did have the Check Engine Light on for like a few years, and it recently turned off after replacing the MAF. But this new problem is just weird to happen right after servicing my car.

    Thanks for all input!
  • tugbatugba Posts: 3
    I have a air flow sensor problem and I am gonna have it replaced in this week, and also a have an error and the code is P1492. I have a '98 infiniti i30. Do you have any idea about this error code?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,480
    that's a code for the EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve.

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  • tugbatugba Posts: 3
    Thank you for the answer. So, is it so important to take care immediately? can you just explain the function of this valve?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,480
    Well the EVAP system is designed to trap and filter excess vapors from your fuel tank during fueling. It isn't urgent but in theory you might start smelling gas fumes, which would not be good. Probably the shutoff solenoid is bad or is could be a simple vacuum leak in one of the many hoses in the system. A good technician can usually find a vacuum leak by using a smoke machine (vacuum sucks in smoke at point of leakage).

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  • tugbatugba Posts: 3
    I am gonna change the material, and I need to order it online sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349462419&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+911-501+Oe+solutions+vapor+- canister+purge+valve

    Could u please check it, if this is the right material that I need to buy?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,480
    Well it's up to the vendor to sell you the right part---that photo is just generic I think. Of course, it might be a vacuum leak and not the valve.

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  • I just bought an Infinity I30 1996. The old car works fine until I hit the brake to stop slowly in some neighborhood areas. The car turn itself off. I have to keep trying to start it for 15 to 20 minutes and then the car will turn on again. The car will run smooth until the next afternoon. The same thing happen again. This occured almost everyday for the past two weeks.
  • I am having a very similar problem right now on a 2001 I30. ABS light, O/D light, headlights, dashboard flicker when using the brake. Still trying to diagnose the problem.
  • I had the BRAKE (parking brake) light and Battery light flicker simultaneously. I replaced the alternator and the lights went away. Shortly prior to this I had replaced the Mass Air Flow. So, I'm not sure if replacing the MAF triggered the other problems or not.

    I did notice that the ABS started to flicker by itself shortly before replacing the alternator. But anyways, no lights have flickered since the alternator was replaced.

    I did have it scoped at AutoZone and they said everyhting looked good (the lights were not flickering at the time). So, if it's intermittent it may not show until it finally breaks.
  • The fix for my 1999 infiniti i30 with the same problem was the knock sensor. I was told and read the about MAF sensor, but this was not the problem, and be aware of just repairing a lot of items that will more than likely not be the fix(dealerships and mechanics are known for this)
  • The fix for my 1999 infiniti i30 with the same problem was the knock sensor. I was told and read the about MAF sensor, but this was not the problem, and be aware of just repairing a lot of items that will more than likely not be the fix(dealerships and mechanics are known for this) This fix helped with problem of the car stalling out.
  • just wondering how much work is involved in replacing an oil pump. how many hours would you say?
  • kenny1956kenny1956 Posts: 1
    Can anyone suggest what may be causing my infinity to stall out? Whenever the tachometer gets to around 2500 rpm, the engine starts to chock out. It acts like its starving for gas. I have had the repair shop replace several sensors (mass air flow sensor, cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, throttle sensor). Also they replaced the fuel pump inside the gas tank and fuel filters. Whenever the weather outside is cooler (below 70F) the car seems to run OK. It acts up mostly when the weather outside is hot and sunny. It has nothing to do with the engine heat, it's just the heat outside (ambient temperature). My car runs good in the winter, fall and early spring. It only acts up in the heat of the summer.
    I tried leaving my windows down during the day, thinking that the ambient heat might be causing an electrical short, that might be causing my car to stall out? I am at the witts end, trying to figure this out. Can ANYONE please give me some advise on what may be my problem with my 96 infinity?
  • jax89jax89 Posts: 4
    My car doesn't stall but it won't start in the heat. Mine might be an ignition switch. I'm getting it checked soon
  • onlyshallow86onlyshallow86 Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    As the weather's getting warmer, I've been running into a strange issue with my car. The car will not start when it's been sitting out in the sun/noshade on 80 degree+ days.

    When I attempt to start, there is:
    - no "click"
    - no noise whatsoever from the starter
    - no changes in dials on the dashboard
    - dashboard check battery light turns on
    - A/C, stereo, headlights, etc. turn on

    This has happened several times - always on hot days when the car has been sitting out in the sun. It will consistently fail to start if I attempt to start repeatedly. I've had success getting the car to by opening the hood and letting the engine "air out", when it's not particularly hot out, or leaving it for a few hours and returning in the evening when it is cooler.

    Yesterday, it failed to start right after I pumped gas in the afternoon. I was able to get it started by waiting a few minutes with the hood open.

    I've had the car for five months and never had any issues starting in the winter.
    It's 13 years old and has about 110,000 miles on it. The battery is newish.
  • jax89jax89 Posts: 4
    The ignition switch. It's a $31.12 part at checkers. I had the same problem and finally replaced it last week and it works perfect now!
  • Thanks for the tip!

    I'm going to try this test (from to confirm the ignition switch is the problem next time it happens. I think it's possible that the starter itself could be going bad - hopefully this (below) should isolate the issue?

    Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement.
  • will104will104 Posts: 1
    I spend hours looking for the same problem on my son's Infinity I 30. The problem was on the main harness to the engine by the battery box. Underneath there is the connector for the starter and that was the problem. I moved the wire and the car cranked right up. Check it out you might have the same problem.
  • hking1hking1 Posts: 1
    After driving car around all day, turning car off long enough to pump gas my car will not start. If I let the car sit for a few minutes, maybe 4 or 5 minutes, the car will start. My car is a 2001 Infiniti I30t with 159,000 mi. Can anyone shed any light as to why this is happening?
  • Did you find your answer for this problem. My car has similar symptoms. Thanks!
  • steckhomesteckhome Posts: 1
    I have a 96 i30. Manual transmission. When driving, the engine will rev extremely high with very little acceleration even in 5th gear. Any help is appreciated.
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