Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

refugeescamp

does sound like the alternator but its not easy to change, its about 2 hours to change it cause you have to pull out a bunch of stuff like water pump hose and radiator fans

sophia087

I have a 1996 Infiniti I30, and lately starting up is a hassle. Sometimes I'll turn the key and once I hear the engine turning over I have to step on the gas pedal to keep it from shutting off. Other times I have to keep trying turning the key as it won't even turn over, then still step on the gas to have it turn on. The lights and radio come on but the car won't. Any ideas as to what it might be?

sophia087

I have a 96 I30 and I am going through the same issue. I took it to my mechanic and in addition to replacing the struts I also have to replace the lower control arm and sway bar links. That should fix the problem.

fjg1947

I need to remove the rear bumper cover on my wife's I30 to repair a dent. Any idea how to remove it? Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

It might help/encourage others here to answer if you posted the year of the vehicle.

visiting host

fjg1947

Sorry. It's a 2000

Mr_Shiftright

I'm wondering if you can just take the "skin" or what they call the "fascia" off instead or if the whole dang thing has to come off? Maybe you can get under there and figure that out. Maybe you don't have to take the absorber and reinforcement bar off.

REAR BUMPER ASSEMBLY

1. Remove screws securing left and right rear fenders to bumper fascia. [A]
2. Remove screws securing left and right rear fenders to bumper fascia lower side. [B]
3. Remove clips securing bumper fascia. [C]
4. Remove trunk room trim. Refer to "TRUNK ROOM TRIM" for details.
5. Working from inside trunk, remove nuts securing rear combination lamp assembly, then disconnect harness connectors. [D]
6. Working from inside trunk, remove jack then remove nuts securing jack bracket. [E]
7. Working from inside trunk, remove bolts securing left and right rear fenders to bumper fascia. [F]
8. Working from inside trunk, remove nuts securing left and right rear fenders to bumper fascia. [G]
9. Remove clips securing left and right rear bumper bracket assembly to bumper fascia. [H]
10. Extract rear bumper fascia assembly after removing the clamps securing it, and then disconnect side marker lamp harness connectors. [J]
11. Remove energy absorber.
12. Remove nuts securing bumper reinforcement to left and right bumper stays. [K]
13. Extract bumper reinforcement.
14. Remove nuts securing bumper stays, then remove the bumper stays. [L]

tesmithjr

Hello everyone. I went to start my 97' I30 this morning and a loud knocking sound came from right side (left side if you are standing facing engine from front) where the belts are on the left side. Didnt lessen when I revved the engine...it almost sounds like a "flapping knock" but I don't see anything loose but will need to look closer when I get home from work. I am worried this could be a major issue (pistons/rods?) and was wondering if anyone had any ideas what is wrong. I just bought it used at 145,000 last week and engine ran good with no funny sounds up until this morning. I left it parked until I get some idea if driving it it to service could make it worse. Thanks!

tesmithjr

It turned out to be Serpentine belt for A/C...$90 repair. No engine issue, thank goodness.

bcreamer

98 I30 intermittently car will turn over but does not fire, when it does start runs rough for about 20 seconds then clears up dont want to get stranded any suggestions

midwestcanuck

Check engine light on in my 2001, I30 for about a month. Local service spot told me the oxygen sensors ALL need to be replaced and if that doesn't work then 'both' catalytic converters need to be done too. Megabucks.

The car only has 45,000 miles. Only symptom other than the light is a slight hesitation when accelerating right after morning start.

Can I clear the check engine light by disconnecting the battery overnight - thinking of trading in the car. Failing that can I replace Oxygen sensors myself? Found some online for $50 without connectors. How hard can it be? Can bad O2 sensors really ruin the cat converters?

thanks,

Scott.

infinite2

I have a 2002 I35 i bought a couple of years ago with 68,000 miles on it. All of sudden my check engine comes on and its my oxygen sensors that need to be replaced, but also my car is making that same sound as yours. A rattling noise coming from under the engine it sounds like. I hear it when i roll my window down at the same speed 25-45 miles an hour. And i dont know what it is. I havent taken it anywhere to get checked. Have you figured out what the problem is? Please let me know. I am thinking about selling my car and getting something else. That noise doesnt sound to good.

chpccm

I purchased my car Labor Day weekend. Since then, I have only been getting 13 - 19 mpg. Also noticed a clicking noise when accelerating on occasion.

Took it to the dealership. Had a tune up, changed air filter. Still no better on gas. Until this weekend when I put hwy miles on it. I actually almost got 21 mpg. The avg is 15-16 mpg.

Would a higher octane gas change the mileage as well as the clicking noise? I just use regular now.....I think 87 octane.

windowphobe6

My 2000 (same engine) definitely gets better mileage with 91 octane, more than enough to offset the higher price. (On a road trip through Dixie where 93 was common, I averaged more than 28 mpg.) Typically I get 20-22 in town.

fuego0615

I have a 96 I30 and when I turn the key I get nothing. the battery, alternator and starter have been replaced. The battery terminals are clean and tight. I am thinking maybe it is the cable to the starter or a relay or something. I just wanted to know, where is the starter on this vehicle? Is it on top of the engine? Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

sophia087

When you turn the key do your lights and radio come on? If so, then you might want to check your ignition switch. I had the same problem, I would turn the key and lights and radio came on but it wouldn't turn over. My mechanic said the ignition switch was bad, had it replaced and I have no problems now. Hope that was a little helpful.

alexrod1970

Hello:

Can you tell me where did you order the Hitachi 140amp OEM Alternator from. I have a 1997 i30 which I want to purchase one for.

Let me know thanks.

my email is Rodriguez.arod@gmail.com

tozilla

Hi,
My wife's is Infinite I30, 2000, the service engine soon light was on and
she took the car to dealer . The dealer told her, oh, one of the chip is bad,
you need to replace it, or you won't pass the smog test. They seems to
dodge any question my wife asked...
They charged $700 for parts and labor for it. Could someone told me what's really going on? Is it really that expensive ?? (I guess not)

Thanks a lot !!
Doug

fuego0615

Did you get a detailed description the diagnosis and what they charged you for? Look on the paperwork and somewhere in the diagnostics there should be a code such as P0440 or P0300. Tell me what the code is and I may be able to give you more information. If it is not on there, you should ask the dealership (and they should tell you!) what code they pulled when they hooked the car up to a scan tool.

art26

I own a 2000 Infiniti I-30t (190,000 miles) I was driving at 60 mph. The ride became lightly rough, couldn't tell whether it was engine or transmission related. Moments later the tcs off, slip, and service engine soon warning lights came on. I pulled over and noticed a slight burned smell, but could find no problem. Started the car again after about 10 minutes. The service engine soon light remained on but the other two were off. Drove for 15 minutes with no further problem. Has anyone experienced a problem like this, or does anyone have any suggestions?

tozilla

Hi,
The description is way too simple.

Job: A/T Module , Parts: $599.85 Labor: $105.00
Error code: P1605

No further explanation...

Any idea what exactly is this module ?

Doug..

fuego0615

I will look up a description of the code and get back to you with more information.

frontierinfini

I just wanted to warn everyone that is in the San Jose, CA area never to take their Infiniti for service at Frontier Infiniti on Stevens Creek. I brought my FX in for it's 30K maintenance. They told me it was done so I picked it up after work. I paid for the service and they said wait a couple minutes while they bring the car out to the front. However, they can't find my keys. They said this apparently happens often and they might have just left the keys in another car. They "tried" to look for the keys for about 20 or so minutes and said it might turn up tomorrow. They made it a big deal that they provided me a loaner car.

The dealership said they were going to give me a call the next day. I get a call 11:30AM the next day informing me that my car was no longer in the lot. I was even asked if I had come back to the dealership that same night to pick up my car with my spare (So I'm the victim here and I get accused of taking my car). They "discovered" the car missing AM and it took them 4 hours to contact me. I immediately head over to the dealership to file a police report. They have no clue as to what happened. No internal investigation was done. No camera footage was available. Basically considered the whole matter as between me and my insurance. They were very passive and had poor customer service. I love Infiniti and if you car about your's, I highly suggest don't bring it in to Frontier Infiniti on Stevens Creek (San Jose, CA).

fuego0615

The module is an automatic transmission module. The code 1605 is for automatic transmission communication line. It is possible that it is a wiring problem but it is also possible that the module is bad. I will try to find out more about the code.

jtek

Scott,

No need to disconnect your battery overnight, you just need to replace your OS (oxygen sensor) both in the front and near catalytic converter. I have a 1996 I30 with 310202 miles, even though I replace my engine and rebuilt transmission a year ago, this car is very reliable. My first engine lasted me 296320 miles, I keep track all of my services down to the date.

If you need to clear your Check Engine light, go to O'Reilly or AutoZone and borrow their diagnostic device for FREE, they just need to hold your creditcard until you are done with the device and return. Very easy to use.

Good luck

Joe

jtek

It is near the air intake and it looks a cone shape. Go to your local auto parts store and ask them for a Mass Air Flow or you can check on the website of a auto car part

bobfl

A few time Our 2000 I30 has started up running rough, fells like skipping or too rich mixture. Then after awhile it smooths out and runs like new. Seems to always be after it has been shut off a while. Very intermittant, anyone had a problem like this?

mmatheny

How is the alternator and the engine governor even remotely related? Changing your alternator WILL NOT defeat the engine governor!

adighe

Hi,

I have a 01 I30 and had it for last 3 yrs. no probs at all till this fall. it makes a large squeaking sound after starting and when it gets warm, it is normal. never had that problem before. I have observed that it is only in cold weather. when the weather got warm for a week last week there was not sound and now it gave again.

can anyone guide me here?

thanks in advance.

fuego0615

It could be a few things. When you turn on the car and it is "squeaking" you can try spraying the belt with WD-40. If it goes away from that you know it is the belt. Do you have your defrost on when you turn the car on? If you have the defrost on the A/C compressor will engage and it may be the compressor, that may just be because it is cold or because it is going bad. Also how cold is "cold" weather. Is it below freezing?

atwdrew

I have a 96 I30 with 157,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on, and the error codes are P0100 (Mass Air Flow Sensor malfunction) and P0733 (Auto Trans 3rd Gear malfunction).

These are some of the symptoms, and I'm not sure if they are related:

- When driving around town, the engine rpm surges up and down and the car moves forward in a lurching motion. Sometimes it stalls, but will start right back up again. Sometimes, it seems to work itself out if you get going above 40 mph. The trans isn't slipping, just loss of power. It doesn't do it all the time though. It seems to be okay during highway driving and will go several miles between these incidences. Although, once it starts doing the surging, it does it that entire trip. If you park the car and let it sit for a while, and then start it up and drive it, it will be okay. When its working right, the engine is strong and smooth, and no transmission troubles.

- I've noticed that this tends to happen when the steering wheel is turned, like turning at a light. Not sure if it's just because low speed, or maybe something to do with the steering. The other day i was leaving from the seventh floor of a tight parking garage, so the wheel was turned hard most of the way down. By the time I got to the bottom, it kept stalling, and I would start it back up again. On the way home, it was doing the surging and stalling thing.

- I was checking under the hood, and noticed that if you turn the wheel all the way back and forth, there is a clicking noise when you get it almost all the way turned one way or the other. The clicking noise seems to be coming from the area of the Idle Air Control Valve. Do I need a new IACV?

- I took the Mass Air Flow sensor off and cleaned it. I put it back on and still got the P0100 and P0733 codes. I've ordered a new MAFS but it hasn't come in yet.

- I checked the transmission fluid level and it seems normal. The color was kind of a grayish pink, and didn't look dirty. I haven't felt anything wrong with the transmission. No slipping, no hesitating.

Any ideas on the causes and if they are related?

inf135_03_

i have a 03 i35, i wana do i tune up but dont know wat to change??i only can think of oil filt, oil, pcv valve n daz it?? am i missing ??

adighe

Hi fuego0615,

You are right on track....I have observed that the squeaking sound comes when I put on the defroster or a/c(heat). I will get WD-40 and try it out today itself. Also when the car is in the garage it does not make the sound. The temp is about forsty...living in Chicago, so it is cold/frosty these days. Also, when squeaking sound goes away, and I start to drive, and brake to stop within few yards...i get a squeaking sound when I move after stopping, like at a stop sign. I think it could be both the belt as weel as the compressor....
Please let me know if there are any other things that I may need to look at or tell the mechanic if need.

Aprreciate your help on this one!

-anand

Mr_Shiftright

air filter, spark plugs (depending on mileage) and maybe it's time for a battery

fuego0615

If you spray the WD-40 on and the noise stops right away then it is probably the belt. Can you see any tiny cracks in the belt? It sounds like your compressor may be making some noise on start up. Try making sure the defrost or the A/C is off when you start the car and see if it still happens. After the engine has warmed up for a minute turn on the A/C and see if it still makes a noise. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't worry about the noise. If you need a new belt you could probably replace it yourself. Let me see if I can find a diagram for you.

atwdrew

Well, I received the new MAFS in the mail and put it on the car. Unhooked the battery and let it sit for ten minutes. Hooked up the battery, and started it up and went out for a drive. It was idling and running rougher with the new MAFS than the old one. I got less than a mile from my house and it just died. I could start it up again, and rev it up, but as soon as I let my foot off the gas to put it in drive, it would die.

It was getting dark, and I didn't want to leave it on the street overnight, so I took off the new MAFS and put back the old one back on. It started right up, idled fine, and I drove it home without it stalling.

So now I'm wondering if the MAFS is even an issue at all, or did I just get a bad part. Would the P0100 error code be caused by anthing else?

I ordered the MAFS off of ebay. It is a new part, manufactured to OEM specs. Not rebuilt. It was about half the price of some of the other manufacturers, like Bosch. Here is the link to the part.

I'm not sure what to do now. Guess I will have to take it to a mechanic.

enoch96i30

Hello all,

I have a 96 i30 that has ~140k miles. Recently, I had the spark plugs changed, and in so doing came about a sputtering that hasn't stopped since. The mechanic that did the work insisted it had nothing to do with his worksmanship and almost got physical when asked to return the car back in the condition he recieved it. So I brought it back to the house and removed and cleaned (wiped down with clean cloth) all plugs. For a few minutes the car held its' own, then came back the sputtering again. I resolved it wouldn't be a big deal, and drove it around for a day or two. Yesterday I tried to start the car and it wouldn't although the battery is relatively new (bought it this past May). I had a friend help me jump start the car. I drove around town taking care of errands with multiple stops.
Finally this morning I tried to start the car and all I'm getting is some *clicks* and what to me seems like an attempt by the engine to turn over. If anyone here could point me in the right direction, I sure would appreciate it as I am but a poor college student.

fuego0615

Well it sounds like the starter may be bad. They are very easy to replace on that car. The starter is right under the air ductbefore the intake. You just have to disconnect a few hoses and take a few bolts out. Had the car been cranking slowly before it wouldn't start altogether? And the sputtering it wasn't happening at all before the mechanic put new spark plugs in it? Does it sputter all the time or does it stop when you give it gas? I don't think the sputtering is related to the not starting unless the car is cranking but not starting, then it may be fuel related. But if it is just making a clicking noise and not cranking and it is not the battery I would guess the starter. Usually NAPA or autozone can test your battery (it shouldn't be bad if you just got it in May) and before you buy a new starter you can take out the old one and have it bench tested at one of those places too to make sure that it is bad. Just be sure to disconnect the battery before you remove the starter. Once you get it started give more info about the sputtering condition.

sophia087

Does your radio and light come on as you turn the key? I had a similar problem, I would turn the key and I would get a click and then eventually the engine would try to turn over so I would have to step on the gas while turning the key. It turned out to be a bad ignition switch.

enoch96i30

Hello and many thanks for the quick reply. The car has at times been cranking very slowly, yes. I did not mention this in my earlier post because it wasn't a problem that persisted. I am very glad you brought it up though, now I see that a faulty starter might be the culprit. As for the sputtering, it wasn't there before the plugs were replaced. When the car ran, it was sputtering even when the gas pedal is floored - with some hesitation as well. I don't think it's fuel related for the fact that when jump started it runs, although it still sputters.
*update* ... with a neighbor's help I jump started the car again. It felt like it took a little longer (a few false starts as well) than it did the last time. Do you still think it's a faulty starter that might be causing all this?
Again, thank you very much for your reply.

enoch96i30

Hello
Thank you for responding to my post.Nothing comes on when I turn the keys. The clicking sound is very recent. It's usually accompanied by the dashboard lights coming on for a second or so and then sort of fading out. Another try at the keys, and it's dead for good - no clicking sound or lights. And then it gets a jump start and everything turns kosher except the sputtering. Methinks it has something to do with the starter. But then again what do i know.

windowphobe6

I don't know for sure if this is true of the 96-99 I30s, but for 2000 and 2001, if you replace the MAF, you may have to reflash the ECM. (There are two TSBs on this: 01-029a and 01-029c.)

aam7

I have '98 infiniti i30 and the driver side seat is not heating anymore. Fuse is ok and the front passenger seat's heating works. What could be the problem and how to fix this?

Any help will be great help!

cccompson

If it's not a bad switch or a faulty connection between the switch and the heating element (such as a disconnected wire), the element itself may have failed.

JTrimm

I have a 96 I30, 308k miles on it.

Battery died a few nights ago, took a couple days to get the battery to operating normally again, then last night noticed that when I take the car over 45mph the thermostat begins to rise. Tonight I rode halfway home from the office with the thermostat between three quarters & just below the warning line, but within two minutes of being home it had cooled to normal (the halfway mark). The engine block is cool to touch, IT IS NOT DRAINING COOLANT. After sitting in the driveway for maybe five minutes, kept it in park and revved the engine to 5000 rpm. It took over a minute of doing this for the thermostat to rise beyond normal.

Here's a twist: If I'm idling with the car pointed UP HILL, the thermostat rises to the warning level. If the car is pointed downhill, it sits at normal.

The car has a history of electrical problems (sheesh), does this sound like it might be somehow electrical (during the battery fiasco earlier this week, engine lights were coming on and off with every start of the car :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: ), or does it sounds like something else?

(Also, Radiator & Water Pump were changed out seven months ago). Any thoughts?

Thanks for any responses.

refugeescamp

GET IT FIXED RIGHT AWAY. Your engine is not overheating or it would stay overheated so don't worry about that. Someone forgot to screw in one of the ground wires when they changed stuff in your car. The exact same thing has happened to me. My wire was near the altenator, the mechanic forgot to screw it in. I also had the problem of it showing overheating when going uphill because the wire fell downwards a bit and didn't touch any metal to ground. You don't have to tow your car... just drive it to a mechanic to look for a wire that's not grounded ASAP or you can short circuit your electrical system.

refugeescamp

your thermostat could be broken too but i really think its a wire that's not grounded properly.

fuego0615

It may well be a ground wire. Is your radiator fan coming on? You can check by running the car until it heats up and generally fans come on around 220 but some a little higher. It should kick on and you should see the temperature on the instrument panel go down a little bit. As long as you know it is not leaking coolant I would guess its not related to the thermostat. There are probably two coolant sensors, one goes to the computer and one goes to the instrument panel. They should be able to plug a scanner into your car at a shop and check to see what the engine control module thinks the temperature is compared to what the dash says it is. If they don't match- bad sensor or electrical problem.

2000I30owner

While trying to go to work yesterday I noticed my car wouldn't start. I tried to jump the car with no such luck. Thinking the battery was dead, I purchased a new battery. Still nothing. I did notice that the security light on the dash goes out when the key is in on position but the dash lights, including the warning lights do not come on at all. When I try to start the car, headlights go completely out. I'm thinking maybe the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check to see if the ignition switch is good or bad? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

I think either the new battery was not charged properly or you have bad connections at the cables. Having the headlights go out when you turn the key is the tip-off.

Battery, one more time.