Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

kreuz

Does anyone know how to replace the tail light lens on a 2000 Infiniti I30?

nyagaka

i had the same problem with mine what i did i got another custer gauges the problem went away

nyagaka

i have noticed of late my car has been stalling out once it has come to a stop it never does if often but it does it every now and then can any one help me find out what it is

nyagaka

by one for maxima if have and i30 its the same thing

nyagaka

check whether you have a vaccum leak or ur vaccum hoses have been wrongly connected

jeffreys52

Has anybody changed an alternator on an 2001 infiniti i30? The mechanic wants to charge me $400 to put in a remanufactured one and I would rather buy one for $120 and do it myself ifnI am not going to take 8 hours to do it. If you have any tips I would appreciate it.

jeh255

had to share my latest I30 adventure. SES light on for the second time. Took it to the dealer since I also just received the notice for DMV emissions inspection and they won't inspect with light on. Decided to go wild and get the 60000 mile service. Had new brakes all around at 55000 from dealer. Got call that the right rear caliper is locked. The repair for the caliper, rotors, pads and the 60m service is almost $2000. I must have sucker written on my forehead. Can't believe they think I'd even consider another Nissan/Infiniti product. This is almost 5000 dollars in repairs in the last two years for a car that they tell me is worth only 5000 on trade. This is a good way to retain customers.

churick

I replaced mine. i removed belt and had to drop compressor for ac, I didn't remove the lines just let the compressor hang down to give me space to get alternator out. i believe 4 bolts to remove. one was a real pain. otherwise probably took me 1.5 hours. I did it from underneath the car. hopes this helped
Good Luck...

Mr_Shiftright

Nothing wrong with FIY if you have the confidence and a repair manual to guide you.

One caveat though---don't buy some cheap reman alternator from a chain store. Get a good one from a reliable auto parts store like NAPA. Failure rate on the cheapies is pretty high.

nflny

:shades:
my I30 died yesterday at a funeral.(it had an old battery)..had it jumped..5 min later all electrical went bonzo and died again...had it towed...was going to go to sears but ask driver if he knew any good shops..he did and they did it right away
turns out the alt belt was worn and the alternator wore out.
so...New alternator,alt belt & New battery w/labor came to $475 cash $520/credit
also 1 Year warranty on alternator and a free tow next time i break down(hope not)
if you live in nassau NY i'll hook you up with this guy..otherwise look for the smallauto repair shop in your neighborhood :P

mshuman

I have the exact issue. Engine running lean fault. Previously had Plugs replaced, O2 sensor replaced, injectors cleaned, none of that worked. I have now Cleaned MAF sensor, ran good for one day. After the car sits for awhile, more so when it's cold out, the car hesitates and stalls then goes pretty good as long as it does not sit for to long. What the hell is the deal???? Tired of spending money.

Please send advice to mshuman01@yahoo.com

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like your mechanic is just throwing money at a problem he doesn't have a handle on. Why spark plugs? Why an 02 sensor without diagnostics?

I think a vacuum leak or the MAF sensor is where to look.

refugeescamp

its the MAF sensor, cleaning it will only run it for like a day or 2 and u notice a huge difference like its running like normal. You do need to replace it though, its about 350$ at infiniti. MAF will tell how much air to shove into your car and if that's busted you will notice less performance when you speed up and you might even feel your car choke or rev up and down slightly.

rvenkat

Check message 315 on how to get a brand new MAF for $120. Worked for me and it drives like new even with a little over 100K miles on it (01 I30). refugee was right.

nybum

Hello I was researching this noise I was having with my I35 and I noticed that you have had the same problem last year... can you please tell me how you solved that issue the rattling noise that comes that you hear when accelerating..... its very annoying and I dont know what to do make it go away... I dont have any service engine soon light on although it was on afew months ago and it went away and when I checked it they said it was the 02 sensor..... any light you might shed on this matter for me would be appreciated....

Thanks

rvenkat

It was the MAF sensor. It got rid of the annoying, rattling noise and more importantly, the hesitation of the engine, when pressing on the gas sometimes. I didn't have a check engine light for the MAF sensor either. But after I replaced it, it is driving like new. You can get it done real cheap if you buy online (see my previous message) and have a mechanic install it - it should cost only about $50 (45 min) to install. O2 sensors are also cheap to replace if you get them online like eBay. Change them in pairs for each bank. You might not get the labor warranty if you get your own parts but in my opinion, the 50-70% savings is worth the small risk. These are just sensors after all and not a major mechanical component of the car.

jhayes9835

I have a 1996 infinity I30. When I accelerate the engine feels like it hesitates and I hear a bit of a backfire. At idle, it feels rough. Once I get up to speed, it runs great. I have a 116,000 on it. Can anyone steer me in the right direction as far as what I need to start looking at? The check engine is not on. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My mechanic wants to go by the process of elimination and that sounds very expensive.

jhayes9835

This is what has been done so far. My mechanic changed the plugs, flushed the fuel system and changed the fuel filter. That was a cost of 300.00 and I told him to stop there.
I still have the problem. If you ease into the accelerator, the engine is fine. It is only when you punch it or try to take off quickly when the problem starts. Also, I can feel it hesitating a little when I am going up a bridge (under a slight load). Hopefully this better explains the problem. Your help is greatly appreciated.

refugeescamp

get a MAF sensor

jhayes9835

I had all six coils replaced, ran good for awile, started running sluggish again. Changed the maf sensor, no improvement. Injectors check out, I had an AIS flush.I am at a loss. What else could be wrong?

refugeescamp

have you changed your air filter? check to see if its super dirty, its right above the battery you'll see 2 small clips holding it in place, just pull it back and up. do you have any cracks in your muffler? when you turn your car on and walk behind it do you smell a lot of gas (more than usual)?

refugeescamp

even check for bends in the pipe cause if its not complete round the air won't flow smoothly and you'll feel it maybe jerk and that u have to press a bit harder than normal to speed up. If your problem went away when you changed the ignition coils then it could be your spark plugs right under each coil. usually u change those with your iginition coils. do you have a light on in your car? cause if the problem starts with starting your car it could be the flywheel or solenoid or p0355 error code which is a sensor that tells your car how to start it. could be a lot of things man, tell me exactly how your car runs and if it makes a loud noise starting up in the cold after leaving it a whole night. i'll try to find out what the problem is.

jhayes9835

I had the plugs replaced, injectors checked, maf replced. There is no exhaust leak and I had the fuel filter replaced when I had the ais flush. There are no codes showing and the car starts up fine. I do not know what else to do or what else to check. Any further help is greatly appreciated.

rvenkat

Did you change the air filter with the MAF sensor? Need to put in a factory OEM air filter ($8) with the new MAF. Some bulletins say that after-market air filters still mess up the MAF. I don't believe it but I changed it as I didn't want to take a chance since I spent about $170 on the whole thing.

churick

I have a 2000 I30 last summer SES light came on and threw a P1320 Code it would come on and off. Winter time came the SES light went off and stayed off all winter approx 7 months and yesterday we got up to 60 degrees and the SES light came back on. You start the car and when you first start driving the car chugs and then seems fine. Than when on Freeway on cruise you get a jerking feeling every now and then. Anybody come across anything like this????

I dont know what to change first: Fuel Filter,Coils, Speed Sensor,MAF??????

inf135_03_

hey i need some help, when i try to move my seat forward it moves but at an angle the right side moves n the left doesnt so it comes forward angled what can cause this problem??? its a 2003 i 35

realtordave

Sounds like a motor or track problem. Does anyone know if there are two motors for the seat? :confuse:

inf135_03_

[non-permissible content removed] i probabbly gonna have to remove the seat and check the tracks/motors n [non-permissible content removed], i think thres like 4 seperate motors for the seats.

realtordave

Did you have any luck?

inf135_03_

i havent even done it yet, i need the time, ill let everyone kno when i do

inf135_03_

have anyone else had this problem???

realtordave

Cool just let me know and I will call my mech. if you want. I didn't plan on keeping my car, but now that I own it outright? I want to help so as I have problems arise I can take advantage of the blog. Thanks,

David

refugeescamp

i had the same problem with the exact same symptoms
P1320 And/Or Spark Knock (Detonation) Due To Ignition Coil(S)

change ALL 6 ignition coils cause when one is busted they all tend to go very soon so change them all and save on labour. If your car still feels like its chugging again, 99% sure its your maf.

refugeescamp

So i get the problem everyone has been having major issues with. The dash lights in my car started to go on and off by itself (seat belt, tcs..) and then my car died for a day and then turned on the next day and then died again. The dash lights flash because the battery is drained because the altenator is busted and not charging the battery properly. To find out if its your altenator, use a battery charger to charge your battery for a good hour, then turn on your car, if it turns on your altenator is dead (your car might sound different than normal when its on or you might even smell burning inside of the car). I changed my altenator (bought one from AC Delco, not the original infiniti one) and the car works fine now. Even though the car works, don't forget to charge your battery all the way to the max with a car charger!!! (the altenator charges the battery but only in high voltage, you need a low charge to get the battery back to max or your gonna have altenator and battery problems really soon again). Don't forget to go to Infiniti to have your ECU reprogrammed (if you don't do it, you will be slightly damaging your car....... BUT you will beat anyone on the highway since you have no limit without the ecu and can go over 200km/h hehehe)

mks21

I have a '99 I30 and I just noticed that my tail lights do not illuminate when I turn on the lights. They work when I step on the brakes or when I turn on/off the car alarm. Has anyone come across this?

tellico1

Is it O. K. to use 87 octane in a I30? Dave in Tennessee

refugeescamp

nope, the car is made to take 91 or higher, you will lose performance with cheap oil and gas. they say you can use 89 in special cases only when you can't find 91, but you must take the supreme. Fill in 94 and you will see how much more mileage you get. I seemed to get better mileage so i only use 94 now. You will feel a huge difference with every gas type you fill with this car. 94 is extremely smooth you will think you have a brand new car. Use good oil too like pennzoil or castrol. I use castrol gtx high mileage ( i have 150,000km on the car). Its a luxury car so give it the luxury it needs and it won't treat you bad, you'll enjoy the ride so much more trust me.

listen

I use regular unleaded, but I put the tune up in a bottle in a tank of gas. I find it to be cheaper and better for my car. I am getting 27.4 miles per gallon.
:shades:

realtordave

I use high mileage oil, a K & N filter and regular gas. I get 25 to 28 MPG avgs. depending on driving style and use. The car has never seemed to need the higher octane. I do fill up the tank with higher octane when I take longer highway roadtrips just to clean things out. Car is a solid performer I must say.

witnessx

Does the automatic transmission fluid in the 2000-2001 cars need to be drained and replaced at a specific mileage, or is it "lifetime fill"? I ask because I have a 2000, and the last time I had the oil changed, the place I went to checked the trans fluid, and they said it was "really murky".

witnessx

It's either a problem in the wiring or one of the bulbs is out.

wingsovgrace

I'm a lady without a clue about this topic. Need to replace the fuel filter and would like some very patient elementary school teacher type to give me the ABC's and tell me where I can find an actual diagram. Thanks!

wingsovgrace

That is my question. I'm new here.

Mr_Shiftright

A rather messy job for a rookie. The fuel filter is in your gas tank. You'd probably want a repair shop to do it (I would). You have to de-pressurize the fuel injection system, (by releasing pressure from a valve that looks like a tire valve, in the fuel rail), then remove the back seat, then remove the inspection plate, then disconnect the fuel pump electrical connections, disconnect the quick-connect fuel lines, extract the pump and float level from the gas tank, and disassemble pump unit and put in a new fuel filter and reassemble everything.

The "book" says it takes a mechanic .9 of an hour to do this. So figure 2X that for a DIYer.

More power to you if you want to tackle this. I think if you were patient and if you had a repair manual showing you step by step you could do this safely. You might also need a special tool for the quick-disconnect fuel lines however, not sure.

You could check with your public library for a repair manual. They probably have it.

Work safely around the fuel pressure relief valve and while in the gas tank area, please!

Visiting Host

windowphobe6

The manual doesn't specify a standard change interval; my local dealership suggests servicing every 30k miles, which seems reasonable.

witnessx

Sounds about right.

churick

Alright, for those of you who are on here regularly you probably have seen my problems over and over again. I had the P1320 code come up. The ignition coils is what i have gotten told to be the problem. I have changed plugs, replaced MAF and cleaned the throttle body. Now I am on to the coils but I am strapped for cash at the moment and I am looking for a way to test coil ohm reading to find Faulty one and replace so I can at least drive the car till i can replace all the remaining coils. I have found one reading saying should be between 10-15 ohms. Is this correct???
Next question is how to test them I believe there is a positive and negative and another output on the coils; is this correct????? Does anybody know the correct procedure for this......

One more question replaced MAF inside box was a notice to use code and download correct information, does anybody know what this is for and is it necessary. put in MAF SES is off but still won't go over 2500 rpms???????

appreciate all your patients guys....I am trying not to get in over my head, might be to late......

daniel25

I have an 2000 I30t with 110K. I had an oil change at the dealership last week (only went there because of a great coupon), and they highly recommended a "royal flush" to enhance the lifespan of the car. As it was explained to me, they drain all of the fluids, flush a cleaning solution though everything, oil the seals, and fill her back up. Price is around 500. This seems like a lot of money to me for a service I may or may not need. Would anyone recommend this service? I'd like to get another 50-75K out of this car...

Also, has anyone found a good supplier of clock and dash bulbs for these cars? I know the clock bulbs from the dealership are ~$12 (x2). I tried to replace the bulbs with some ebay specials (from Illumination maybe?), but they did not work. I just lost light on the left side of the A/C panel and hope to replace this bulb on the cheap also.

I haven't had the exact seat problem mentioned a few posts ago, but have had the seat completely stick in the furthest back position. I was able to pull hard on the driver's seat (from the back seat) and knock the seat back onto the rails. Maybe this would help? I no longer move the seat all the way back.

I'm happy to report that the I30 is still running great since replacing the MAF (late spring 2007). Only issue now is a LOUD noise when turning hard from a stop and then pressing on the gas. I try not to turn the wheel all the way now. Anyone else have this issue? CV joint maybe?

Thanks and good to see the board still going strong.

bud4me

For the last couple days my 1997 Infiniti I30 has been starting weird, turning slow. Today it would not start at all. I cleaned the battery cables, no result. There is not even a clicking noise when the key is engaged. Lights do not even dim when the key is turned. Nothing at all happens.

militem

Sounds like an alternator to me. Get it to autozone, they can easily test for that. New alternators are about 135 and very easily to install.