Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair



  • that error code means your Oxygen sensor is finished. you may notice your car jerk sometimes if you try to drive it as soon as u turn it on. You may also notice your gas going away faster than usual, like losing 15-20miles I'm pretty sure its a sensor on the radiator side of your car, bank 1 is the primary oxygen sensor.
  • 99 is different from 00 and 01. Altho some 00's were made before a certain date in 99 so they have 99 parts. If you have the actual 00 model, it has all the mechanical parts as a 00 maxima so make sure the part #'s are the same as the maxima before u buy it, cause lots of mechanics books have different parts for i30
  • p1320 is ignition coils code, change those
  • ltsjltsj Posts: 4
    Thanks for the feedback. I will notify my mechanic on Monday and see what he says. I read somewhere that after replacing the o2 sensor, the ECM? must be reprogrammed and can only be done by the factory reps, dealership. Heard anything about this?
  • churickchurick Posts: 16
    how are you suppose to know which coil it is, usually there is a individ cylinder code isn't there. like 002, or 003 for each cylinder. Or is there a way to test each coil.testing how many ohms each one is pulling or something??? i really don't want to replace 6 coils at 100 bucks a pop if they don't need to be replaced....

    let me know...... Thanks
  • In the nissan/inf when one goes out they follow, and won't take very long. The code checker can identify which coil's are misfiring. For me it said primary coil and 5th coil. I replaced those but service light was still on until i replaced all of them. There is a way to tell which one is really the bad coil but its kinda tough. You have to keep the car running and then pull out a coil and see if you hear the engine bog down a bit, if the engine does seems to sound like its dying a bit, then that's the coil. Try it with all the coils just to make sure but that's how i heard you can tell which one it is without the code checker
  • tleetlee Posts: 44
    I just bought a 2001 I30 and noticed there are 3 buttons on the driver-side visor. They look like the buttons for a built-in garage door opener but I'm not sure. Unfortunately the seller didn't give me a user's manual (he wasn't the original owner) and never used those buttons (he lives in an apartment building with valet parking). Could someone tell me what those buttons are for and, if they are for the garage door opener, how to program it? Thanks in advance.
  • yes they are garage door openers
    1) put the key in ignition in postition 2 (car not running)

    2) hold down both homelink buttons on the outsides of the homelink tranmitter (to reset any existing codes)- you might have to do it for 20-30 seconds. red light on homelink will flash rapidly then let go.

    3)Now, with the garage remote in one hand and the other hand holding the button on homelink you want to program (keep holding homelink until it pulses (not a rapid flash, takes about 20 seconds). When it is pulsing, hold the garage opener as close to the homelink button as possible while depressing door opener button also.

    Shortly after doing this you will see the homelink start to flash rapidly (this means it is learning the code).

    - let go of both buttons once it is flashing rapidly and

    4)go to motor of door opener and hit the learn button (a light should turn on)

    5) return to the car and press the homelink button you programed once, twice, ... upto 3 times until you see garage door open/ close.
  • I recently replaced my alternator as I had the battery and brake light on and the car died. The SES light has been coming on and off for several months now. It still does after replacing the alternator. The car drives fine, just the SES light comes on and off all the time. Any ideas??? Should I just ignore it until the car starts operating differently? Or, should I get the dealer to read the code?
  • if u want to fix something before it breaks check the code hehe. are you losing more fuel than usual?
  • good advise! lol I am not losing more fuel. The car drives exactly how it should (I used to have a 2000 I30t before this 2001), so I am familiar with how they drive. I just don't want to start forking money to the dealer. All these threads worry me as it seems the SES codes can be pretty vague. The light comes on for about 1 week, then will go off for a couple of days. Then keep repeating itself and has for several months now.
  • tleetlee Posts: 44
    Thank you very much for the info. I followed your instructions when I got home last night and got the homelink transmitter working within minutes.
  • ltsjltsj Posts: 4
    Finally got my car into shop and provided mechanic with information about the O2 sensor possibly resolving the problem. Two new pieces of information came from this:
    Their are (4) O2 sensors on this model and the one pertaining to the Bank 1 is on the rear of the engine next to the firewall. So now this part has been replaced and I am waiting to see if the SES comes back. Tune in later folks..
  • How much did it cost you?
  • yeah bank1 is engine lean back. when u turn on your car go behind it and u can smell a lot more gas than usual coming out. I just got a service light and its the same thing, have to replace that o2 sensor
  • I had the same problem with my 2000 I30, and this solution may not fit all of you. My wife and I use the power seat at different settings. My setting is all of the way back. The last time I used the car, it stopped working after I was done, which was all of the way back. I removed the seat, and manually turned the seat track screw (which is about 15" long under the seat)about 1/4 turn with a vice grips. Turn it so that the seat would move forward. It then worked fine. My guess is one of two things. Either I put the seat back too far, and it "locked" in the back position, or, the motor was stuck. Be careful where you grip the screw, as you may nick up the grooves in the screw, and the seat won't glide there. I suggest all the way toward the back of the seat, because this would be where it would touch if the seat were all the way front, a position which is rarely used.
  • rs2062rs2062 Posts: 1
    I am new to this forum, and registered so I could find out info on the expected life of ignition coils - my 2000 infinit I30t has only 52,000 miles, and just had to have all 6 ignition coils replaced!
    I saw several posts in this forum re ignition coils needing replacing around 100K guess that 1-I am unlucky and 2- arssa2020, beware you may have an issue w/this (it cost me $850 to get this fixed at the dealership).

    Refugeescamp and/or others: any idea what the standard life of ign. coils SHOULD be? Perhaps I have a case to ask Infiniti to refund my repair cost...thanks much! Ruth
  • I think the warranty is only 5 years on it
  • I just bought a used 2000 I30t a couple or months ago and I really like it so far. However, I now notice a delay I shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear upon harder acceleration. What are my options? I‘ve read through all the posts regarding the replacement of the TCM that was in a TSB (00-039?).

    This is a basic question but am I still covered by the original warranty as a second owner (car is still under X mileage and X years of original warranty). Does anyone know how much it is to replace the TCM out of pocket?

    Thanks ahead of time!
  • loukkloukk Posts: 1
    I know it has been a long time since July, but I had similar problems and the Alternator was not charging the battery. After doing substantial checking I determined the problem was with the ECM or ECU. I disconnected the major plug to the computer and reconnected it. All the problems went away and the Alternator was charging again. I suspect a bad connection at the interface to the computer.
  • My I30 is slow to fire if it has been sitting for more than an hour. The starter will crank but the engine will not fire We have had it at the shop a number of times, they changed starters, plugs, and cleaned the injectors, but nothing has helped.
  • Hey all, I have an '01 I30t, I love the car, my only concerns are these, the transmission will sometimes slam into gear under heavy acceleration and over 80mph the brakes seem to feel as though they are fading. I have had my car at the dealer for the transmission a number of times for the trans and they have clean out something and I have had the fluid flushed and changed at the dealer. It still has this problem, now I am told that that is the way that these cars are, b/c the service writer has one and he has the same issue. The brakes are at 60% life and I am told that the car has no problems, any hints or ideas on how to handle this? Thanks much! :confuse:
  • 2kinfi2kinfi Posts: 8
    hi everyone i just purchased this car with 68K on it. i love the car so far. here's one think that gets my attention, On cold starts (if the car has been sitting for a while) When i crank the keys in ignition, there's a weird noise before the ignition turn over, (does not sound like a sqealing belt) then everything appears normal and quiet. If i attempt to restart car within a few minutes, the same thing happens, however; if the car is totally warmed up i would not hear this weird noise. Any suggestions?
  • 2kinfi2kinfi Posts: 8
    hi everyone i just purchased this car with 68K on it. i love the car so far. here's one think that gets my attention, On cold starts (if the car has been sitting for a while) When i crank the key to start, there's a weird whinning noise before the ignition turn over, (does not sound like a sqealing belt but could be a belt issue) then everything appears normal and quiet once it starts. If i attempt to restart car within a few minutes, the same thing happens, however; if the car is totally warmed up i would not hear this whinning noise. Any suggestions?
  • ne00ne00 Posts: 1
    My 1996 I30 stalls in traffic or at a stop light when idle. It also stalls at night when I try to start up the car. The RPM needle would just bottom out. Usually when it stalls it's already at the normal temp and my RPM needle would be around 550 or 600 and stall when it hits 500 RPM.

    I took it into the Infiniti dealership and they adjusted my IAC valve after I told them it was just replaced. They couldn't figure out what was wrong with it or reproduce the problem. I told them to check the MAF Sensor and was told by my Service Consultant that "it's not related to the issue."

    Have no clue why they can't reproduce the problem because I can reproduce it fine whenever I drive it in normal conditions.

    So neither the dealership or a certified auto shop who only fixes Infiniti and Nissans can't fix this issue. I'm stumped. The mechanics wont take my advice to check the MAF. I'm appalled Infiniti dealerships are clueless to this issue. If you google it, it's all over the place. They are either ignoring it or I guess the 5% of the population doesn't matter to them. Now I have this phobia driving Infiniti cars. Can't even drive a loaner without the fear.
  • Hey Ruth,

    I got a question for you,
    Did your engine made any weird noise coming out of it when you accelerate? Or did your "service engine soon" light came on?

    My friend mechanic checked it out for me , and said that noise is caused by one of the coils failing, and yesterday I had a "service engine soon" light turn on and it stayed on since.

    I have the exact same model you do. I bought mine at 52,000 and now I got about 72,000 miles. I'm gonna get it checked today, but I just want to find out if you had the same symptoms with your car.


  • I get an occasional blat, which sounds more like a peeved goose than anything else. (Can't be the belts; replaced them all 1500 miles ago.) It hasn't been annoying enough to call in the service guys yet; I'm thinking it may be the thermostat repositioning itself - which would explain why it doesn't happen when things are nice and warm. (Non-t 2000, 91k.)
  • 2kinfi2kinfi Posts: 8
    window, you hit the nail on the head, exactly as you describe. It really doesn't affect the performance of the car, but it sure is annoying sometimes even embarassing. Like you said not too annoying be be checked out yet. I hope someone can chime in on a definate cause though. thanks.
  • ashkashk Posts: 1
    hi there

    I am having the same problem. I have noticed that at night when the brake and battery lights come on, my headlights get much brighter. Could you help. I live in a remote part of US (native american reservation). Only 1 mechanic and nearest dealership is 5 hours away. When I called them, the service guy said it is an alternator problem and will cost $700. My car is a 97 i30 with 150K miles (245K km).

    with many many miles of secluded raod, can't afford to get stranded. Esppecially with m 2 yr old.

    what is an ecm or ecu?
  • I've read of an occasional issue with the starter which produces a grinding sound, although how closely this resembles the sound we're getting remains to be seen. I suppose I should call the dealership and see what they think about it.
Sign In or Register to comment.