Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

rvenkat

Thanks window. I had the SES light checked out and it was not my MAF. It were the rear O2 sensors which I don't care to fix since gas mileage is just fine and they have been in failed state for the past 18 months with no adverse effects. A big expense saved (or simply postponed) for now .

rvenkat

Angry goose was simply the rear brake pads that had worned down to 10%. FYI, you would also hear an irritating screech when the pads need changing, even when you are not pressing on the brakes. Now I don't have to feel embarrassed when reversing in a public parking lot!

joshh347

Hey!

I just bought a 2001 I30t a couple months ago, and I'm having (i think) transmission issues.

Once about 2 weeks ago and then once yesterday I was driving in stop and go traffic for like 15-20 minutes in HOT 90 degree weather and then all the sudden my car seemed to not go above 2nd gear. I couldn't go above 20-25 mph without my RPMs going out of control. It would kind be jumping between 1st/2nd or something and not go above 2nd. I had to very slowly pull off the freeway and would turn off the car and sit a few minutes, and then would drive back in a non-traffic route and the car would be fine.

Anyone have any suggestions?? I took it to Infiniti after the first time and they said "is it working now?" and I said "well yeah at the moment". And they said there was nothing really they could test then. They told me to call them when it was happening, and of course last night when it happened THEY WERE CLOSED.

Anyone have a similar problem? How did you fix it?

Thanks,
Josh
:sick:

churick

I have a 00 I-30 and I had similar problems like that. I was drinving down the Interstate on a 95 degree day and all of a sudden it felt like my car downshifted than my rpm went way high (3500 at 60mph) plus my temp gauge went up as well had to pull over and let sit for 10-15 minutes and than I could drive it for about 10 miles and than would have to pull over again. I thought I was having transmission problems as well, turns out my thermostat was bad. Replaced that and haven't had any problems......... I would start there first...........

stansi30

I just had the exact same scenario happen...

It first started happening 1 month ago slowing down on the freeway, it down-shifted into first and then never up-shifted. The engine would wind up to 5k rpm staying at 20mph and never upshifting! I pulled over to the side of the road, turned it off, back on and it was fine again. It happened 3 more times in the last 2 weeks, and now the check engine light pops on each time. My local mechanic has been checking the code and it keeps coming up with faulty speed sensor; however, he did not think that was the problem and had me take it to the dealer... this is where it gets interesting... Kearny Mesa Infiniti says its the torque converter in the transmission and quoted me $5100! :mad:

It seems to me this is a more common problem than just a few instances, so you would think they would have it figured out by now. Anyone have any suggestions, or heard of a fix? I'm hoping it's some faulty sensor that can be replaced rather than the whole transmission!

Any help would be extremely appreciated!

Thanks,
Stan

josian

I recently bought this 1999 I30 sedan with 88k miles. It runs very good however every time I use the vehicle for few miles and remove the gas tank cap, a huge amount of vapors came out of the tank. Also I can't top off because when I am filling out the tank it shows like it was already full. I have to fill out the tank slowly.

If anyone have a similar problem please let me know how to fix it.

mikefromcnj

I just had the same problem. Also the Check Engine came on with a code P0720 - Speed Sensor. To it to Ray Catena Infinity and they changed the speed sensor Part # 32702-5v000 $47.22 and along with labor cost me $159.00. Got the same check engine with same code a week later. Took it back to Ray, and this time they told me my Trans needed to be replaced!!

I took it to Hillsborough Trans and they checked it all out. Turns out the Infinity Dealer changed the wrong speed sensor. There are two and the one that sens msgs to trans (I think thats what they said) was bad. They changed that and no problem since. Can't wait until I get my statisfaction survey from Ray, but it hasn't come yet.

jcchait

Changed all coils due to p1320 error. Car runs about 50% better but still hesitates upon first acceleration when sitting idle a few hours. It seems to go away after about 20 seconds after driving. Any suggestions for my mechanic?
MAF problem?

churick

My A/C just quit working than the car would shake when accelerating like its not getting enough fuel or to much fuel........anyone experienced this????????????

(I am thinking Fuel Injectors) but not sure if that would have any impact on the A/c

infinitii

I finally went to the Infiniti Dealer and it was diagnosed that the Wire Going to the Master Cylinder was cut and unplugged.So they ran a new wire and cost me $220.00

Now the brake light on the dashboard is gone.

rvenkat

I have the same issue. The car hesitates to accelerate for the first minute or so. I also have the issue at higher speeds on the highway. When I gently accelerate from say 60 to 70, I feel like something is dampening the engine for a few seconds @ 70 before it allows me to go past 70 to 80 and the same thing at 80. Have not been able to enjoy the fruits of a 227 HP car for over a year now! Cleaned the fuel injectors, problem didn't go away. When the SES light was checked, it didn't return any codes for the MAF, just rear O2 sensors which I haven't changed for almost 2 years with no adverse effect on gas mileage or anything else. But it sure looks like a MAF problem. It's about a $450 fix and so I am planning to wait till next year to do it. In the mean time, any suggestions/feedback is appreciated.

rvenkat

Actually, I found some good deals on Ebay for new MAF sensors for I30s/Maximas. They are only about $100-120 and labor at a local mechanic shouldn't be more than an hour max. My mechanic states only 36 minutes labor ($60). So, it can be done for under $200. I think it is worth a chance to get my 227 horses back. This is getting annoying and premium fuel, fuel injection cleaning etc. is not working. I am 99% sure it is not a transmission issue. Daniel and a few others had very good results changing the MAF. Will update the board after I get mine done as well...

rvenkat

Got the MAF sensor replaced today. Took it to the hwy and gunned it to 85. What a difference! No hesitation and I can finally feel the power from the refined V-6 after a couple of years. The sensor was $112 and the OEM air filter was $8 from prostreetonline.com with free shipping and no taxes. Installation was $50 even. Remember, there was no P0100 code pulled from diagnostics and hence no ECM reprogramming. I hope I am not speaking too soon but so far, it is well worth the $170. Thanks to all those (esp. refugee and daniel) for pointing me in the right direction...

clabo

I have a 2001 I30 Just had to have my cv joints replaced...doesn't this seem too soon? Also had to have the whole exhaust replaced this summer for $1300.00...Gasket ect. I bought the extended warranty, but have yet to see what it covers!! Anyone else with these problems?

windowphobe6

My CVs so far seem fine ('00 I30, 103,000 miles).

On the downside, I've replaced both the cat and the front tube with the precats.

88kx

cost is about 1 hr labor. You will have to have all three keys reprogramed

miteveo

hi i have the exact same problem as u with a 2000 i30 and it will usually happen with ur going about 45 or so and then u let off the gas and it kinda shakes a little bit...anyways i was just wondering if u found a solution to this because its started to annoy me and i jus created this accout so im not sure how to use it but u can e-mail me @ miteveo@hotmail.com
thanks alot man!

metro44

Hi, i just bought a used i30 limited and i loved it up to now that my SES light is on after turning on my cruise control, the light came on, i tried disconnecting battery to reset it, but it is still on. Has 115,000 miles, the previous owner changed ignition coils and other big parts, can some one out there help me?

yoopercamp23

I recently have had a couple problems with my 1999 I30. It has 107,000 miles on it and these are the first problems I have had with it. I bought it with 72,000 miles on it. First off, I am having trouble shifting it out of park in the morning. It works fine the rest of the day. Just when the car has sat all night and I go to go to work in the morning it doesn't seem to want to come out of park. I have to pull and pull on it. Another problem is when I accelerate it shifts hard into second. Is my transmission going bad?

01i30

I have an 01 i30, with 80k, while driving home the car just quit, will not start back up. If I give it gas while cranking the engine fires up, as soon as I let off the gas the engine will stall, no SES lights yet. Replaced MAF, no luck, any ideas? Just recently replaced alternator and rear bank o2 sensors, apprx 2 months ago.

gir

I just replaced the rear brakes on my '99 I30. When I drive the car the bakes are really low. Is there a way to adjust them?

rvenkat

I would say alternator but since you changed it, hmm..... Was it a new alternator or salvage? That would still be the first suspect (improper installation or bad replacement) since the car died while running. Else it could have been the battery. O2 sensors, MAF should have no effect for this symptom...

01i30

I can start the car if I give it gas, as soon as I let off the gas it will stall. Alternator was new. I'm confused b/c I can start the car by playing with the accelorator.

taydon

While having a blowout replaced, car overheated, turned car off immediately, but now will not start (won't turnover) Stranded and need advise. Towed to nearest Nissan dealership but not sure they know what to do.

jaxsonn

my service engine light came on and we got a code of 440 (small evap leak). Can anyone advise me on how to fix this.

nyagaka

hi i just bought my 96 i30 has 150000 miles recently i had a oil pressure light comming on so i went to have my oil pan removed and cleaned to check to see if there was a clog in my oil pump my mechanic found about a fist full metal shavings inside the oil pan i need to know is this cause for concern :surprise:

pua691

I have 1996 I30 with just over 110k miles. There's a hole in my exhaust pipe (dealership informed me) so it's very loud (otherwise, engine always quite) so... until I can afford to get that fixed/replaced, I was wondering what kind or how much damage that will cause.. .while/since i'm still using it?

Oh, any idea on how much it will cost me to fix exhaust pipe? Can another repair shop fix it (beside dealership)?

I did get an estimate of all this from dealership, but misplaced it during my recent move (ha).

Thanks much for any advice!

maddoke

replaced brakes with new infiniti pads at 70,000. Front pads were the same but rear were changed due to my Vin#. some spacer clips were attached toward rear of old brakes but the new pads seemed a little longer to make up for the difference. "Rattle clips" that were on backside of original brakes were taken off and put on new brakes and installed. Now theres a clanking metal rattle in rear wheels. Front brakes are fine. Infiniti parts says "rattle clips" for rear aren't available to order anymore and weren't included on the replacement pads. They thought maybe the metal on those could be rattling and maybe aren't needed? Also infiniti parts thinks there might be some sort of "spring" that sits on top of the center notch on each pad that holds brakes down tight? could that be it? Need help as now wife wants new car due to the rattling. Brakes work fine. I've taken the wheels off and looked at and seems to look normal but I know nothing!!

annamreddi

I had the same problem for several months. Finally got rid of it by changing the fuel filter and by cleaning the fuel system

annamreddi

Clean your fuel system and if required change the fuel filter. I was having the same problems. With the above it is working O.K

windowphobe6

P0440 can be as trivial as a loose gas cap, or as cumbersome as a bad vacuum-relief valve on the fuel tank. Start with the easy stuff: check the gas cap.

mrrbiggz

did you take it to a dealer for the work or didyou do it yourself

rvenkat

It was the MAF sensor. Drives like new after I got it replaced. I had cleaned the fuel injectors before and it did not help. The manual says the fuel filter is maintenance free and does not have to replaced. I still have the pesky SES light for my rear O2 sensors but they haven't bothered me in 2 years. Not planning to spend $800 to get those changed....

jat2288

I have a 99 I30 that cranks but won't start. When it was running, it would start hard but it would eventually turn over. Sometimes it would just crank and crank, then start. Other times it would crank and stall. The car would stall a few times, then start. The check engine light came on and stayed on, so I took it to the shop. They replaced 1 oxygen sensor and added treatment to the fuel system. The issue continued and the check engine light came back on. I took it back to the shop and they replaced the other 2 oxygen sensors. I brought the car home and that was the last time I could get it to start. I checked under the fuel tank and I can hear the fuel pump buzzing, so I think it is operating properly. I checked 3 plugs and they are dry after trying to start the car. I was trying to check the spark, and it shocked the crap out of me so I don't think it's electrical. I replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator valve, but no change. The car just cranks over and over again. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body, the car will attempt to start. When this happens, if I push the gas pedal, the car will rev up to with a high rpm, but then it stalls immediately. Any help would be appreciated.

mbzguy1

I don't think it is your tranny, I think you've got a problem with your motor mounts. Overnight your motor sinks down to bind on the shaft slightly, making it hard to get out of park, and second gear is when there is the most torque on the shaft, so it makes the engine jump slightly.Same thing happened to my son's G20. Easy fix with a good jack, just check for excess play and/or wear on the rubber in the mount

mbzguy1

Bleed the brakes! You let air in the lines.

mbzguy1

Dude, you need your engine overhauled. The metal is coming from the rod bearings, and if you continue to drive it one of them will fail, throwing a rod and rendering your block useless. Surprised your mechanic didn't have an explanation for the metal, they should all know this.

mbzguy1

Yes, another shop can fix it, or if you go down to the parts store you can get a pipe wrap that will fix it for a long time. Either way, get it fixed soon because the leak could let CO into the cabin and cause major damage to YOU!

mbzguy1

Hey Bob, don't blame the car for inept mechanics, every brand has them. I've seen just as much guessing with Lexus, MB and BMW. Just be grateful you don't have to see them as much as the Euro's. I avoid dealerships like the plague unless I have to go there; they are my last resort. My advice to anyone is find yourself a good mechanic that you can trust and use him(or her!). And try to do as much work as you feel comfortable with on your own. You'd be surprised how much money you would save if you use the internet for parts and put in your own sensors and brakes. I can change all 4 rotors and 8 brake pads for less than $300, really not hard at all. Sensors, hoses, belts, alternators and starters are not hard to do, and even if it takes you 3 times as much time as a mechanic you are saving hundreds in labor. Most libraries can give you online access to Chilton's repair manual, so don't buy the manual (if you could find it) but go online for it. Also, look it up under a Maxima if you can't find it under Infiniti, they are the same for most mechanical and electrical.

smoken1

Just moved my sons car, '97 I30, to CA and need to have the emissions certified, but they won't look at the car if the SES light is on. the Infiniti dealer said the codes show it needs a new knock sensor ($550) and has an intermittent speed sensor fault ($650). The car is not worth that much. Any ideas on how to change these myself and get the flash reprogrammed to shut off the SES light on the cheap?

kitty2tone

my 99 I30 (127000 miles) just went through some really fun repairs - the brake light and batt light came on after I got gas, and it sounded terrible until the lower engine pulley dropped out while I was driving. the mechanic replaced it, took it out for a test drive and it dropped out again. my a/c compressor was frozen causing the belts to tighten leading to the pulley to drop, so they replaced that too and it runs like brand new. 2 days later the ses light came on - (not too long after getting gas) - so I've checked the cap - how long does it take for that to reset if it's the problem or do I have to do something?

ching3

I have a problem that sounds similar. My wife drives the car and I cannot duplicate the problem. She said the engine sound like it is racing but it is not going anywhere. After the car is turned off for a few minutes it runs like nothing ever happened. Mike do you have the part number of the second sensor that was replaced. I think my problem is the same as your own. Thanks ...Andrew

sswabinga

We have an I30 with 130,000 miles. The car consistently stalls while idling at traffic lights. We have replaced an idle control mechanism (sorry I don't know exact term) and have also tried cleaning out the injectors. The repair facility we use said that the machine for cleaning fuel injectors they had would not work with the I30, so the injectors might still be a possibility. They also noticed a hesitation in the engine at 3500 rpms to about 4000 rpms. The repair facility then suggested replacing the catalytic convertors. We have had no check engine lights come on. The car runs smoothly while driving.

ching3

Don't forget to check the ignition coil pack for this problem. If it is.... don't pay to have it changed. It takes less than 5 minutes to change yourself.

i30ct

my i30 will seem 2 misfire about half the time i use it and the chk engine light will flash when the problemreaccurs. I have had three different garages try to fix it and have replaced the O2 sensors. The problem code P0171 is what comes up. I found that if i add fuel injectr cleaner to the car it helps for a little while. Any help would b much appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

That's a tough code to crack all by yourself because it could be a lot of things.

So the engine is running lean.

Most common causes would be:

Defective or contaminated airflow sensor (MAF)

intake vacuum leak

dirty fuel filter

The 02 sensors would not have been my first guess, but ho harm in replacing them----they do get old.

nflny

just got a 2001 I30 in November...it's real nice!! took it upstate last week...did about 95-100 for about 45 minutes..the car is real tight handles excellent..i am the second owner..no problems yet(knock on wood) 72,000 miles...i love the fact that it has a timing chain. :P

parku

Hi there,

I am looking if someone has had the same problem as me with their infinity. I have a Infinity I 30 2001. Sometimes when I am driving at about 40-50mph my car starts slowing down and the RPM goes up to 6000 and it makes a lowd noise. I have to turn the car off and if it is turned back on within a couple of minutes it works fine. I don't know why this happens. If anyone knows anything about this please let me know.

Thank you in advance.

sydneyk

I have a 2000 I30 and sometimes the car slows down while I am pressing the gas pedal. Also the service engine light comes on for a week then shuts off then comes back on after a couple of days. HELP

mikefromcnj

It's one of the two speed sensors. I had the same thing.