Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Generally just wear and tear. Every time you apply the brakes the seals in the cylinders slide back and forth and over time they wear down. As soft as the material is, it is amazing how long they last! Obviously, if most of your driving is in town, or stop and go, the wear will be more pronounced for the miles driven.

    And you are correct in your statement of not complaining on the cost. Ask someone who has had that repair done on a Toyota or Honda what it cost.
  • The Texas state inspection is only as good as the tech performing it. I've taken my car to the same place for several years precisely because they "overlook" certain issues like the worn tires on the Aspire I was getting ready to sell and didn't want to put new rubber on.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Very true on Texas inspections. We are in our first year of "enhanced" inspections with emissions testing. One year inspection now costs about $28.50. All because we are adjacent to Travis county (Austin).
  • iman4iman4 Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 2001 Elantra and its right front tire is going nuts when I am going like 60 down the highway. Also, I can still hear it when I am going 5 miles an hour too, but a lot less then when I am going faster. When I turn the steering wheel, it gets louder and if I turn it the other way, it gets softer but if I turn it too far that way, it gets very loud. (this is when I am going 60 down the highway) The steering wheel also shimmys a little bit too. It also pulls to the right when I leave my hands off the steering wheel. I heard that you can't do an alignment on this car, is that true? If so, what could be the problem? I rotated the tires and its still there. Its only coming from the right front wheel whatever tire I have on there. Please help. Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Get your car seen by a mechanic immediately. If the vibration is as pronounced as you say, it could be a wheel bearing or CV joint coming apart. Don't just keep driving a car at speed when the wheel is "going nuts"!

    These cars can have a complete 4 wheel alignment. How many miles are on your car, and have you nailed any curbs or potholes with the right front?
  • I purchased a used 2003 Elantra which has about 20,000 miles. It is fantastic in all ways (sunroof, spoiler, power windows, silver color, great CD), except for one thing that I found out about after purchasing: SEVER SHIMMY FROM 60-70 MPH. In looking through this forum,I am reading that many people are spending alot of their time and resources trying to solve the problem on their own.

    Am I naive in thinking that since I purchased this car, that while I may not have the 100,000 mile warrantee as a second hand owner, that the 60,000 mile warrantee that I have inherited should mean that Hyundai should be able to correct this defect for me on my car?

    Let me hear from those knowledgeable on this question.
    John W
  • You don't have the 100,000 mile warranty as a second owner; that's clear cut. The 60,000 is transferrable.

    You can see what Hyundai tells their dealers about wheel shimmy here. Click on "NVH", then "Wheel & Tire". They know it's a problem and tell their dealers how to fix it.

    Good luck.
  • iman4iman4 Posts: 2
    Hi and thanks for the reply. I never hit anything with that wheel, it just got progressively worse over time. Its very loud too. I just came back from looking at it and I must say, I can actually see that the right front tire is like this... (The I's are the good tires and the "/" is the tire that is turned out a bit, looking down on the vehicle without the body in the way)...
    I /

    I I

    It must be like a half inch out of alignment. But the thing is, is that I was reading posts on here from before and everyone says you can't do an alignment on this car. I think you can though. It does pull to the right. Thanks,
  • Of course you can do an alignment. But you may need some suspension work as well (bearings again, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.)
  • Betsy and I passed the 62K mile mark a few days ago, with very little to report, other than the replacement of rear sway bar links (today), and the development of a new noise more than a week ago. Sounds like something is sliding around the gas tank when I am travelling at low speed and jab the brakes or the car has any sudden horizontal motion. Bouncing up and down doesn't produce the noise. On the hoist today, we found that pounding the bottom of the gas tank produces a clunk from whatever is in there. It's heavy enough to slide around the tank but not float. Waiting for dealer to call back; their service stinks. Has anyone had a part come dislodged in their tank?
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    01 GT, 32K. I've havent had something come loose in my gas tank. I would like to ask why you replaced your rear sway bar links? Did they wear out?

    I installed the Tib sway bar a couple years ago with metal links and have had no problem.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Okay, I know several of you have done the rear sway bar swap, and have driven with it for a while. Opinions? And Jim, what happened to your links? I have heard both sides regarding the durability of the nylon/fiberglass links with the Tib bar installed. I am considering this mod for my '05 GT.

  • I can't answer the durability issue, but I've done the mod within the last month and can shed some light:

    Part numbers. You need the following parts to do just the sway bar (Hyundai Dealer part numbers):

    Bar (1 req'd): 55511-2C000
    Bushings (2 req'd): 55513-2C110

    I paid $82 for the bar and $10 each for the bushings at a dealer. I quoted several dealers and the prices were significantly higher at others. So shop around.

    I did just the sway bar at first because the end links seemed kind of expensive. To install just the sway bar and bushings, you don't even need to jack the car up; you can get full access just by sliding under. On a new car, it takes literally about 10 minutes.

    After checking around I found more reasonable prices on the end links. To do the end links as well, you need to buy 2 of one the following part numbers:

    Hyundai Dealer Part No.: 55530-29500 ($25-35 each)
    Moog Part No.: K90360 ($15.99-18.99 each)
    TRW Part No.: 18343 ($11.48 each)

    Moog and TRW parts are available at auto parts stores; ask for prices on each part number because a store may sell both lines. I bought the TRW end links and guess what: they're made by Moog anyway (TRW box with Moog markings on the part)... so buy the cheaper one, they're the same. Not sure if I'm allowed to say where I bought them, but name of the store means "to go forward" and begins with "a".

    To do the end links you need to remove the wheels to get access to the upper end of the end link, so you have to jack up the car. Put it on jack stands because if you just jack up one corner at a time (one wheel in the air and one on the ground), you load up the sway bar and make the job harder than it needs to be. Note that there is a grease fitting and the metal end links need to be lubed.

    Is it worth it? Definitely. My biggest complaint with my new Elantra was its lean in corners. Does it make the Elantra a sports car? Sadly, no. The mod takes the car from clearly inadequate to okay. Putting an even bigger diameter sway bar on, such as the available 22 mm aftermarket part, is rumored to cause failure of tab the end link attaches to on the strut.

    Is there any difference in feel between the plastic and metal end links? I suspect that objectively there isn't. But there seems to me to be a qualitatively different feel. The plastic end links seemed like they prevented roll to a point, then dumped it all in at once while the metal ones seem to make the car roll more gradually and predictably. This is a very subjective, non-scientific, one-time observation on my part.

    In the end I decided to go with the metal links for the simple reason that when Hyundai put the 19 mm sway bar on the 03 Tiburon GT, they used metal end links. That does not say that the plastic ones can't take the load, but the only configuration that Hyundai used to put a 19 mm sway bar on had metal links. It could be that the plastic ones are more durable, but there is nothing from Hyundai either way about whether the plastic ones are okay.

    Including end links, this cost me less than $140 dollars and was worth every penny.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Thanks! Great info
  • Just bought a brand new 2005 elantra 6 weeks ago-
    it now has 1000 miles on it.

    1) I have a sulfur smell that permeates the car at times. I called the dealership and they say that the coating on the exhaust. It should go away- true?

    2) I have a squeaky ?front seat- like a springy sound that occurs over bumps- what to do?

    3) Most annoyingly- I feel acceleration is not consistent. Sometimes that car runs smooth- others times I feel I really have to push on the gas pedal with a very sluggish response. The tranny seems to downshift or become indecisive at times. Is this normal for the first 1000 miles?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,910
    A sulfur smell is different to me than the characteristic scent of new Hyundais as the protective sealant on the undercarriage burns off the exhaust. Does it really smell like rotten eggs, or something else? If it's the rotten egg smell and the car still has it after 6 weeks, it may be something else. Some brands of gas cause that smell. I haven't noticed it before in my two Elantras, but I've noticed it on many other cars. If it's the sealant burning off, it will go away in the not too distant future.

    Re squeaky seat, if I were you I'd show it to the dealer the next time you go in for service. Maybe a squirt of silicone lube is all it would take. Is it a GT? If so, I've noticed that sometimes the plastic cover on the seatbelt cable on the right side of the driver's seat will rub a bit on the leather and squeak a little bit. I can make it stop just by moving the seatbelt cable a fraction of an inch.

    Re the sluggishness, I have no idea. I haven't noticed that kind of behavior on our GT with automatic. It is an adaptive automatic and does change shift points based on driver input. If different drivers drive the car with different pedal pressure, it might stumble while adjusting to the new driver but that is a guess. Could also be a problem to check out--could be related to the rotten egg smell--bad gas maybe?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Backy is on target with regard to the smell and performance issues being related. As of late, the different brands of fuel here in central Texas are yielding varying performance, idle quality, and fuel economy. I have had good luck with BP, Texaco, Exxon, and of all things, HEB (Coastal Refining out of Corpus Christi). I drop 2-3 MPG and get a loss of performance and rough idle from Shell.
  • If for any reason the catalytic converter is not doing its job you can also get a terrible sulfer smell.
  • Backy posts some good stuff and is probably right, but I have a pretty much brand new Elantra and encountered similar stuff.

    1) I have a sulfur smell that permeates the car at times. I called the dealership and they say that the coating on the exhaust. It should go away- true?

    The was a nasty smell to my new Elantra for a few weeks; it eventually went away. I wouldn't describe it as "sulfur" though. I would let it ride for a bit and see if it gets better.

    2) I have a squeaky ?front seat- like a springy sound that occurs over bumps- what to do?

    I removed the back cover of the seat and tried lubing the springs and metal frame, as well as the pivots and pivot springs with silicone lube spray, but it didn't work. I finally isolated it to the seat belt latch. I could wiggle the seat belt back and forth and could hear it itching in the buckle. I sprayed some lube into the buckle opening of the latch and it went away instantly.

    3) Most annoyingly- I feel acceleration is not consistent. Sometimes that car runs smooth- others times I feel I really have to push on the gas pedal with a very sluggish response. The tranny seems to downshift or become indecisive at times. Is this normal for the first 1000 miles?

    I haven't seen that. However, I think these cars have some adaptive logic in the engine/transmission controls where it learns how you drive. If it was test-driven by several people it could be all messed up. I think to reset it you have to disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes, then after reconnecting, do a gentle acceleration, a moderate acceleration and a jackrabbit start. I have no idea if this will work but it's worth a try.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    As long as the engine is running smooth, no warning lights, no smoke, I wouldn't worry too much about it for the first couple of K miles. Many of us have found, myself included, that the mileage and performance improve after a good breakin time, say 2-4K miles and several months. I am sure there is a highly technical reason for this, but it beats me.

    One theory: With the software controlled engines these days, and the 10/100 warranty, it would be quite easy to program the engine parameters to keep the performance at a slightly lower level until a few miles and or time have been accumulated. This is a cool way to protect the engine during break in and extend the long term life. Owners manuals have always had specific instructions regarding break in, and now the technology has advanced to where things can be somewhat managed by the car itself.
  • I don't have a shimmy problem but i have a 2002 Elantra with 106,000kms on it and the transmission went .They are trying to tell me that the car was driven hard and the tires spun .Well that just isn't true .They said the only reason the differential goes bad is because of tire spinning.Does anyone have any insight into this for me.
    thx Pauline
  • New '00 Hyundai Elantra for me. I've had it about two weeks. Did a lot of short trips today, and when I parked it at the store, I noticed radiator fluid pouring out underneath the engine. Popped the hood and found it was coming from the overflow tube on top of the coolant reservoir.

    I let it cool down a short while and checked the reservoir--it was full. I drove a few blocks and the temp guage went right up to the top. I then popped the hood and found the reservoir empty. I added a bit of 50/50 and tried again. Only got a few blocks more before the same thing.

    I intend to go back tomorrow when the engine is truly cold and see if I can get it to the mechanics place before it overheats. However, any suggestions? I know the thermostat could be at fault, although I'm not familiar with where it is or how to know if it's broken. Maybe I should just try replacing it anyway?

    Suggestions are appreciated. I bought the car from a friend and know it wasn't having problems before this.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Failed thermostat sticking closed. Try to replace the thermostat where the car is now located. Further overheating events can lead to a blown head gasket. If you feel you must drive the car a short distance to the mechanic turn the heat on full, watch the temp gauge and never let it hit the red (turn car off and let it cool a few minutes between each drive). Here is the thermostat info for a 2000 Elantra from Webtech:

    Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000 and Tiburon 2000
    Engine Mechanical System Cooling System

    Drain the coolant down to thermostat level or below.
    Remove the coolant outlet fitting and gasket.
    Remove the thermostat.
    Immerse thermostat in hot coolant to check proper valve opening temperature. Replace if necessary.

    Valve Opening Temperature 82°C (177°F)
    Full Opening Temperature 95°C (205°F)
    Valve Lift (at full open) 8.5 mm (0.33 in) or more

    Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000
    Engine Mechanical System Cooling System

    Check that the flange of the thermostat is correctly seated in the socket of the thermostat housing.
    Install a new gasket and the coolant outlet fitting.
    Refill the system with clean coolant.
  • 5port asked why my sway bar links were replaced. Upon inspection they looked loose, and we were able to wiggle them around, to the point where it seemed plausible that my mystery noise may have been produced by this looseness. Now that I am reasonably certain the noise is in the tank, I have an appointment with the local dealer to listen in. Stupidly, I forgot to fill my tank with just a small amount of fuel yesterday and instead let it run and run. I may end up simply rescheduling the appointment or going to the dealer that has a better service reputation (not conveniently located). I'll keep you posted.
  • I guess we are having the same problem. I posted this to another forum.

    I was driving my son's 2005 5 speed Elantra and something doesn't seem
    right with the throttle. When I take my foot off the gas as I shift, the
    engine doesn't seem to slow down enough. It seems to maintain a higher RPM
    than it should.

    I did some tests and found:

    1) At idle, if I give it enough gas to get to maybe 2500 RPM or higher then
    let off the gas, the RPMs seem to drop as they should until about 1500 RPMs
    where it seems to pause for a fraction of a second then drops down to 750 or

    2) If I am just "cruising" in 4th gear at, say 2500 RPMs and simultaneously
    take my foot off the gas and push in the clutch, the engine speeds up to
    2700 or 2750 RPMs for a fraction of a second then drops down to idle, with
    maybe a pause at 1500 again.

    Has anyone else noticed this with their 5 speed Elantra?

    Could some of you run some tests like I described above and see if, perhaps,
    this is normal?

    I watched the throttle mechanism during test 1 above and there doesn't seem
    to be any hang-up there. It slams shut as soon as the pedal is released. I
    am sure it is the computer that is keeping up the RPMs.

    No Check Engine Light or other indication of a fault.

    Thanks in advance.

  • I've read somewhere that these strange throttle behaviors have to do with emissions; i.e., at certain RPMs, the engine is leaned out and the engine tends to want to dwell at those levels so that the car passes smog tests. Or something like that.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Thanks jimbeaumi. Good luck with the fuel tank problem.
  • The thing is, it didn't do this before. He bought the car in August. I don't know how many miles he has on it but I doubt it is over 2k. I don't know when the problem started.

    It seems to me that this could be a fuel consumption issue. Pulsing up between shifts, etc.

    If it was my car, it would be in to the dealer ASAP. My son makes his own decisions. Has anyone taken theirs in to find out what the dealer says?

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I have ordered the new parts and expect them early next week. I went with the metal links after a discussion with one of the mechies at the dealership. Seems that while the non-metallic links may not break, they can flex and reduce some of the gain from the thicker bar. I will report back on how this all turns out.

Sign In or Register to comment.