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Sears Auto Service Center
Wal-mart (I think their batteries were just top-rated by CR)
Batteries Plus
Fleet Farm
I know there's others, but that's a start. Or just go to the dealer, plunk down your money, and it's done!
Backy - you are right of course, but I'm one of those savages who relies on the web, and I abhor the telephone... kids these days And yes, plunking down the money at a dealer sounds very tempting - gotta do my part to stimulate the economy... stupid dollars at work
I changed batteries on my toyotas, no issues, and I guess I though it'd be the same with the Elantra. No biggie. Love it here, and thank you both very much!
Fortunately there's still the indicator in the gauge cluster.
Thanks
BWR
thanks!!
It will take a skilled electrics/electronics person to track this one down, I am afraid.
Has the vehicle been involved in any accidents?
I have a 1997 Hyundai Elantra wagon that I got used. I had it inspected and needed new brakes and rotors (front & back.) Ten days after I purchased the car the transmission went. I had it rebuilt (basically new since all the parts are brand new) I've replaced the batter and alternator. When I had it inspected this year my check engine light was on and needed a manifold because mine was cracked, also had the front drivers caliper replaced because it was leaking. (My check engine still comes on when it is cold out.) Now my passenger side front caliper is spewing fluid everywhere.
I bought the car because everyone I know who has a Hyundai loves them and the reviews I read were all very good. So did I just end up with a bad car? :mad:
Also, if you did some research you might have seen that Hyundai started its quality initiative around 1998. Before then, it designed and built cars to one purpose only: low price. The Gen 2 Elantra, which you have, was a decent car for a low-priced econobox but not nearly the same quality as more recent Hyundais.
Thanks Backy, I will keep that in mind when looking for a new car. When it is running, it is running great, but all of the problems and issues are getting tiresome. I never had so many issues with a car that was over 20 years old! LOL They sure don't make them like they used to.
To remove the mirror, you will have to firmly pull the mirror from the top or bottom in order to disengage the plastic ball. Just be careful when pulling because it is possible to break the mirror. To put it back, you will need to pop it in by squarely putting the mirror on top of the plastic sockets then quickly pop it in with a quick controlled jab to the center of the mirror. Again, it is possible to break the mirror. Just don't apply excessive force otherwise you will end up with a broken mirror.
Good luck.
Thanks again for all the advice. This forum saves users a lot of time and money with help like this. Did this repair for about 30 bucks.
Do you live in a high humidity area? What you are describing could easily be light surface rust forming on the disc rotors overnight. Won't hurt anything, and is fairly common. What you can do to determine this would be to look at the rotor through the wheel before moving the car. See if the rotors are bright and shiny.
When you first drive away, get the car up to 20mph or so, and stop. Don't need to nail the brakes, just a good quick stop, and see if the noise is gone. The light layer of surface rust is removed after just one or two applications of the brakes.
Both of my Elantras did the same thing in rainy weather, but never did it during the long dry summers we get here in Texas.
thanks,
was thinking the rotors might be warped. wanted an opinion b/c money is tight. also, should i try and get them turned or just replace them.
also, owner hit a pole a few years back, was "repaired". noise from front wheels is recent. noise is not there when making sharp turns. wondering if maybe the wheel bearings could be shot?
any help would be great. this is the first foreign car ive ever taken a wrench to, so some detailed help would be awesome. bit of a change from my 76 chevy.
Call your local parts joint. It doesn't hurt to ask.
Another solution is to pull up normally on the lever and hold it up for about a second. The door will pop open.
Once you get the door open, you might try this (also from another forum):
Carefully bend the striker plate on the door very slightly away from the tongue that keeps the door closed. Also one person reported that the dealer changed the spring on the door and it fixed their problem.