Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
<http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/>
I found this info for your car under Lubricants:
Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000
GROUP
Transaxle/Transmission Automatic Transaxle System

LUBRICANTS
Items Specified lubricant Quantity
Transaxle fluid lit. (U.S. qts., Imp.qts.)
GENUINE HYUNDAI ATF SP-II, DIAMOND ATF SP-II OR AUTRAN MMSP-II
6.6 (6.9, 5.8)
Drive shaft oil seal lip
Automatic transaxle fluid
As required
Sliding part of bushing
Chassis grease SAE J310, NLGI No.0
As required
Selector lever sliding portion
Multipurpose grease SAE J310, NLGI No.2
As required
"*For California, this maintenance is recommended, but not required"
Does that mean if you're not in California, don't worry about it or that it should be replaced at 60? and 120K?
How much labor is involved to inspect the timing belt? Is this a ploy to squeeze dollars out of consumers by having the belt inspected every 30K miles?
I would lean towards timing belt replacement at 90K. Any thoughts on this?
Auto transaxle fluid change seems a bit long at 105K. I would lean towards a full flush at 60K.
feeling accelerator pedal. The first time they lubed it and they second
time they repositioned it. Both times I left with a good feeling pedal but
the roughness (given a few months) would always return.
After looking at the cable its no wonder it needs lube every 6 months.
The cable leaves the firewall near the brake booster the makes a sweeping
90 right turn into the valley of the engine (between the cam towers) then
leaves the engine on the passenger side and makes a 180 degree half turn
to the right and back to the accelerator pulley. The heat of the engine
over time is enough to dry out the cable until its travel feels rough.
Some people are having this cable replaced but I feel in time the
roughness will come back. The fix is easy:
1) At the pulley end of the cable there is a small black rubber boot. Pull
this boot off of the notch in the end of the cable and towards the pulley.
2) You will see a small gap (or play) in the end of the outer cable where
the inner cable exits and heads towards the pulley.
3) Take a can of you favorite light oil lube (WD-40,Superlube,etc) and lay
the tip of the spray tube against this gap (where the inner cable exits
the outer shield.
4) To contain the spray take a single paper towel (rip it into a very
small towel) and wrap this around the end of the spray tube where it meets
the cable.
5) Now spray the lube for about 30 to 40 seconds in one continuos spray.
The paper towel will saturate and when it does it creates a seal that
forces the oil into the cable quite a ways.
6) When done clean up the area and slide the black boot over the cable end
(back into the notch).
I now have an accelerator pedal that feels smoother than new. Well
worth the effort which was nill. If you cant get the tip of the spray
tube located right I use a small teflon flexable tube that snaps into the
WD-40 tip opening and is about 2 an 1/2 feet long. This way I can keep the
can upright at all times. The higher the pressure in the can the better
this works.
Just though I would share this as I cant be the only one with a rough
pedal. It feels soooooooooo good now
The brakes started to vibrate again on the highway while braking just about a week ago. The last time they vibrated like this was about 2 months ago, and that's when I took the car in to get the rotors looked at to begin with. I'm beginning to wonder if the dealership accidentally messed things up that very first time they turned my rotors, or maybe this was some defect that was in the car all along but wasn't uncovered until the rotors were turned (and this wasn't the dealership's fault at all).
This is the last chance the dealership has to fix it. If the snap snap snap comes back after this repair attempt, I think I may have a Lemon-tra on my hands. Say it ain't so!
Oh well, it's all wait-and-see right now. I'll let everyone know what happens. Thanks again.
Jlflemmons, the service advisor understood what you told me about the rotors, and he said that they'll take a look into that as well tomorrow.
I think today they tried balancing the wheels again and then had one of their other techs take it out for a spin. That wouldn't help a brake issue, of course, but that's part of the normal procedure for the vibration-on-the-highway problem.
BTW, my loaner vehicle is a brand new Santa Fe. So, no big rush to get the Elantra back to me... ; ) (Am I the only one who doesn't actually mind that new Hyundai smell as well?)
My usual service advisor wasn't there today, but I will call him up in a few days and see if he has anything else to note from what they did in the last 2 days.
The same noise happened in both dry, mid 70's weather in the middle of the day, and then this morning after it had rained part of the night (and the temp was 63 or so, and slightly humid). So, I don't think it's weather-related. Maybe it's just a belt starting to slip. It happens (it just seems to happen to me LOL). Time to call the dealership again!
Hyundai Canada has approved the painting of my door trims and back quarter pannels. The National hyundai rep came down to look at my car and came to the conclusion that the doors were not 'flush' with the body, therefore leaving some of the car exposed to salt and sand damage. Overall, I'm very excited and please with the way this situation has been handled. However it did take a long time for them to recognize that it wasn't just 'wear and tear' but a defect in my cars build. My dealership has also been fantastic.
After 70000km's my car seems to be running pretty good. It's certainly not as 'tight' as it was when I first bought it. There's much more shakes and rattles then there was 8 months ago but that is to be expected on a 'cheap' car. Overall, I'm satisfied.
Enjoy the drive.
I think it's time to go to another dealership. I'm not exactly happy with the hassles I've had to face from the one I bought my car at (especially after they took 3 tries to fix a brake noise issue that turned out to be rotors they didn't turn right to begin with). Who cares if the place I bought it from will give me $15 oil changes for life?
Anyone else getting these noises, then?
Jim
03 GLS auto running 60 mph with no AC results in 32-33mpg. 70 mph with AC 23-24 mpg.
I've never seen such drastic changes in mileage. Not a big deal, just curious if others experience the same.
Minor problems to be addressed next dealer visit. Peeling vinyl exterior door trim on drivers side and a turn signal indicator that has to be manually turned off 95% of the time.
Re gas mileage, I noticed that when I started using the A/C a lot this summer my overall mpg dropped from 29 to 28.5--not a big difference. That is all in-town driving, combination of city streets and freeway (aka "large parking lot" much of the time). When I've taken it on a long drive with the A/C on, speeds of 60-70 mph, I got around 35 mpg. That's for a 5-speed.
You probably had a "normal" balancing done. There is a special type of balancing called radial force balancing (I think that's the right term for it). You'll have to ask for it, as your dealership may have to make special arrangements for you to get this type of balancing.
I think that my dealership did that to my car, but it didn't help out the vibration at all. So, that's when they gave me the new tires and wheels.
Good luck getting the problem fixed!
The best analysis I have heard why they built this in is because the key fob is so freaking sensitive that even thinking about the fob will unlock the door.
I like the auto-lock feature (mainly because I have forgotten to lock the door) but it could lead to a lockout very easily if you're not careful.
The key fob is set up in such a way that if it rubs up against something in your pocket or purse, it will more than likely press the purposefully-made-larger lock button. The unlock button is small and requires more pressure -- the comment about "even thinking about the fob will unlock the door" isn't true in my case. Instead, thinking about the key fob usually locks the doors because the lock button takes up so much more surface area.
I wondered what the big deal about keyless entry was -- and then I got it on my Elantra. I'm never using my key to unlock the doors ever again ; )
Now, if only the key fob had a trunk release button on it as well...
Jim
Is anyone else experiencing these problems? It's very frustrating.
I'm not familiar with any ECT button anywhere near the shifter, at least for US models. The closest thing that I think you could be talking about is the TCS button next to the hazard lights. That's the traction control system and I doubt activating and deactiving that could have made your erratic shifting (or the shifting that I experience as above) any better or different.
the ECT button is located on the lower right side of the selector lever.
also look here:
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=10463#_10463
its shown in fig. "F"
Anyone else had this? My wife has Thursday off and we're looking to schedule the 18k mileage service and have it repaired under warranty. Problem is, the dealer I got my GT from is a cast iron PITA to get them to admit anything is warranty. I liked the salesman who sold it to me, but thus far their service department is the standard greedy crooks.
KF
Some people have a habit of holding the door frame while entering the car that would wear out the stripping in one spot over time. Dont have this problem in my 01 GT.
My dealer is the opposite of yours. My buying experience sucked. The service dept is topps. Once they ordered a part for me under warranty. When I arrived to pick-up my car they admitted they received the wrong part. In consolation they paid one day on my rental car and gave me tickets for three free car washes.
I'm somewhat impressed with my car, but there are still some issues that Hyundai needs to fix if they want to make even better cars. Most of these have to do with weird noises -- some normal, others not, and then those that turn out to be normal but still don't seem like they should actually be normal ; )
Let's take the brakes. They stop very nicely, but in damp 40 to 60 degree weather, mine would constantly make a thoompy, almost "fart"-like noise right when the car would come to a complete stop. You would also hear it when slowing down to 5 mph or so for a speed bump and then letting go of the pedal. Once spring and summer came, the noise went away. I'm not looking forward to the damp weather this fall, though... and I'm not looking forward to the occasional squeal that the brakes will make in cold weather as well (although that's more normal, and it only occurs when the car is COLD, whereas the damp weather thoomp would happen almost all the time when driving the car around).
As of late, I have been hearing some belt rattle noises when putting the car into gear after it has been sitting around for more than 12 hours. The noise usually occurs in the mornings, but I've had it occur at other times of the day too. The dealership said not to worry about the noise unless it happens when the car is warm. Of course, they can't seem to duplicate it either, although adjusting one of the belts seemed to fix it for a week or so. Then the noise came back. Oh well...
Once in a while, if I drive the car around town a few miles, get on the highway for a while (maybe 10 or 15 miles to get to another end of town), and then get off the highway and then arrive at my destination, I'll notice a strange gurgling/popping/tapping noise that seems to come from the back of the car. It only lasts for a few seconds, and then it goes away. I'm assuming it's normal -- maybe it's some pressure being released, who knows. I'll ask the dealer about this soon.
I've had the front door black trim issues, and the paint job (done in my case instead of new trim) to fix it is doing fine, at least.
The driver seat tends to "pop" ever so slightly while I move to get out of the car. It's not the seat moving on the track, but instead it has something to do with the dials on the side for tilt/angle adjustments. I recall the driver's seat in the 2001 Elantras being VERY hard to adjust, and I wonder if the newer, easier-to-adjust dials are to blame for this small issue. I asked the dealership if they could "tighten" this once before, and that seemed to help. So, I'll do that again.
Speaking of popping noises, the power window switch for the driver side front window seems to be "stuck" if I use the auto-down feature in really hot, muggy weather. I heard a clicking noise coming from my door one day after rolling down the window, and then I discovered after it happened a few times that it would go away if I would roll up the window just a fraction of an inch. Not a biggie -- but still, it had me perplexed for a while!
I've also had to lubricate the heck out of the front seat belt buckles. Here and there I would hear a squeak coming from the seat, but it turned out to be those buckles making the noise, and not the seat.
One last issue -- is torque steer something that occurs in these cars after they have been broken in? Sometimes if I'm accelerating and then I have to turn as well (to get through a curve), I almost feel the steering wheel wanting to go the other way while the car shifts (like at 40 mph or so). I don't remember it happening until maybe a month or two ago. Luckily the steering wheel isn't shaking at highway speeds like it has for others in this group -- oh wait, I had that happen too for whatever reason, and the dealership was nice enough to replace both the tires and the wheels (maybe that was to make up for them screwing up my rotors -- check out my earlier posts for info about that).
So, lots of little issues here... but obviously when you have to deal with quite a few of them, it can lead to an annoying ownership experience. The real kicker was having to bring the car in 3 times for a snap snap noise that turned out to be rotors that weren't turned correctly, but I won't go into much detail there because I've already discussed that on this forum (along with the grainy/sticky gas pedal issue as well).
I'm not bitter... but I'm not totally satisifed either. At least the car hasn't blown up, though : )
1. Write a letter to the service manager at the dealership, copy to the area rep, detailing the whole thing including their refusal to fix the problem, which is a potentially deadly safety issue. Explain that they have now been informed of the issue and that should any damage, injuries, or deaths occur because of this problem, that you will hold the dealership and HMA responsible. If you know a lawyer, cc him/her also (even if you don't actually send the copy to them).
2. Ask to talk directly to the area rep and explain the problem again, noting the safety issue. Tell them that you insist that they keep your car until they can duplicate the problem (giving you a free loaner in the meantime). Tell them that you will be filing a safety complaint and recall request to the NHTSA.
3. File the complaint/recall request to the NHTSA. They can start an investigation of the problem.
4. You might also try writing a letter to the President of HMA, Finnbar O'Neill, asking for intervention in this serious safety matter.