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Go to NGK site and plug in your car, it will tell you what part number to look for.
Amazon is another place to get them cheap.
Unfortunately I just came back from a long trip and the car almost overheated about 600 miles from home. Was able to continue trip, knowing I was not losing any antifreeze - got home no problem and found out that the cooling fan and A/c fan were dead. Over 1000 dollars (non-dealer) but no damage. Absolutely no warning but glad I caught it.
onward!
The oil I am referring to had what was believed to be metal cutting abilities (although that term cutting probably sounds too harsh) and I think it was used to help engine break-in in reducing hatch marks etc on cylinder walls, thereby allowing a quicker or more tight ring seal for best compression.
Mfrs used to say (still do on some?) if you swapped out that oil too early you were doing yourselves no favor. I have asked this the odd time in the last few years on car and bike forums and I have gotten all sorts of answers, and they contradict. Any expert opinions here?
My suspicion is that with today's mfr'ing processes is that they are so precise that this type oil has no purpose any longer.
Dealer wants 725+tax for replacing the whole instrument cluster. Supposedly the screen is part of a whole unit there.
Has anyone else had this issue? My car is 2007 with just 35k miles on it. Also, had to replace water pump about three weeks ago. Honda was gracious enough to reimburse that expense even though powertrain warranty expired back in December. I am starting to wonder about the "Hey it is a Honda" reliability claim.
Regards.
Also, the road noise issue .......anyone drove '12 model and is it quite. Do not believe in inuring ones ears to unnecessary sounds when trying to listen to a radio of had a chat with passengers.
Goodbye and good riddance Honda! You will never get my money again.
I replaced the battery and have the exact same problem. Alternator good with battery at about 12.6V with engine NOT running and 14.4V with engine running. Had my local mechanic check everything out as well with nothing found. I have checked, removed, and cleaned 3 grounding points on the vehicle as well. Also replaced Neg battery terminal which looked a little ragged. Nothing seems to make a difference.
Mechanic suggests installing new starter as next action item - any thoughts? Little or nothing pops up on internet regarding this issue.
Your post has helped me with a theory on this problem. I think there are three things that compound into a weakness. The battery is too small with minimum CCA's. The wires are too light a gauge, especially for the length run. The starter motor may be too light in design also..all 3 things indicators of cost-cutting. Along with Ford's paint, transmissions, head gaskets etc and Mazda's rust rust rust, GM's no right to still be in business etc, I will not be buying another Honda. Naturally I have other reasons too for leaving Honda behind (like their denial for poor life-span A/C and auto trans, I am also very unimpressed with the brakes. They are too small, and very prone to corrosion and piston binding which doesn't let the pads wear down evenly which shortens their already short life. And the newer Honda's are even cheaper than our generation. I think we got the last of any Honda generation worth buying.
Anyway, if the weather holds, I hope to remove my starter and confirm connections, going to use a heavier gauge on the positive to the battery. Also plan to maybe split the starter if it looks like it will bolt back together without issue, and confirm brushes are in good shape and touching armature evenly, lube the shaft ends and also the throw-out gear shaft.
In the meantime, if you are not into maybe doing all that, when starting, at least make sure your lights, rear defogger and fan (and heated seats if you have them) are all off. That helps, as does a battery warmer and block heater if you live in a really cold region.
Anyway, I think I spent about 400 at a local shop and it seems fine.
The problem I have is probably what you are implying here. I do a lot of my work at the dealership - the higher prices are worth it and I have a good dealer. I would not mind paying 800 dollars if I knew I was going to get the use out of it - Frankly, I am looking to trade in about 30-50K miles (or keep as a beater) maybe 1-2 years and I hate to spend too much. So after about 100K or so, I do some things outside of dealers, just because I don't want to pay higher prices - even though the quality is probably a little better.
I dare request the valuable support of some connoisseurs in automatic transmission especially the Honda CR-V model year 2006 , I live in Algeria where 99% of cars are stick shift ,which means that in case of breakdown; fixing an automatic transmission here is a closed book to most mechanics , finding the right mechanic nationwide to fix an automatic driven car is like gold dust , at a pinch those who can afford it order and replace either a new automatic or manual gear box from France but wait 6 months or 12 months to set it up !
To which end , I am eager to buy my neighbor's Honda Cr-v year 2006 which shows 50.000 miles only .
See , this is gonna be a high stake deal although for I am positive Honda engine is a very sturdy & reliable as I own a civic since 6 years and no troubles at all aside from replacing brake pads , battery , tires , I am rather worried to death about the lifetime of the automatic transmission albeit I am rigorous with oil change...
Bottom line , I am craving to break my saving box to have have this neat gray CR-V and plan to keep it until 200 k miles yet people around me say I am going to throw my money down the drain or sign my own death contract , to make matters worse Honda left Algeria since 4 years now .
Thus , your feedback ladies & Gents would be very welcome and decisive as I am on the fence right now .
Much appreciated .
Sincerely
Adel TOUHAMI ,
Annaba / ALGERIA .
tel : +213 661 260 574
I'm just gonna shell out all of my savings to buy it and hopefully It end up as a white elephant .
Fingers crossed.
Best
Adel
- have owner drive you around. This will tell you some of their habits. You should avoid it if their common practice is to shift into reverse while still rolling forward or vice versa, very bad
- also avoid if their practice is to apply throttle right after shifting into gear before the gear has actually engaged..i.e. throttling it to speed up its engagement into gear..very bad
- on the drive, look for harshness of shifting...does it shift hard (abruptly, jerky or even make loud clunk or thump noises) when upshifting or downshifting through the gears in common city driving.
- when you get back, check the levels and smell the tran fluid from the fill hole. It should not smell burnt.
- Put some on some white paper..should not have a darkish red tint, should still be bright or vivid colouring (I say this assuming Honda's fluid is red when new) I have never owned a Honda automatic.
- ask to see the replaced records and dates and jive the odometer with said dates and $ spent for service. Honda's are VERY fussy in using THEIR own fluids. (as opposed to aftermarket, even if the aftermkt contr says it is ok to use).
I usally don't pay much heed to that last one, but i DO with Honda cars. And with my own CRV ( a stick tho) although I do not buy their engine crankcase oil.
Last thing...Honda DID have a lot of trouble with their auto trans in both Odessy (never remember the spelling on their minivan, but this doesn't look right) and Civics. Not sure about the CRV but they are sorta known to not have the best auto trans out there.
The alternative is taking it into a body shop. That would cost a bunch of money and I still don't know how close they would match the paint.
Thanks for your input!
Thank You
The wind gets in under it..
The leather is stitched together and causes wrinkles, very bad wringkling.
Been a few since this one too..
I don't think it is just Honda forums, but am wondering if they aren't a bit worse though..
So much info and knowledge can be shared through other's experiences, but not if it isn't actually shared.
And thank you. :shades:
But what you say is quite true, probably many other eyes saw it and took it to the bank. Similar thing on a Prius forum I noticed lately. Guy posted some great info for owners. Not a single person thanked him. So I did..months later mind you..and I'm not even a Prius owner, but thought it was good info to know. Hopefully he finds out someone cared enough to thank him.
Ya know...I wonder if this would be a cheap/good/effective way for the site to cover this aspect by enabling a 'like' feature? I noticed another poster posted that as a suggestion on the New Forums thread started a short while ago.
Although, I suppose someone showing up and getting help via a net search could be called a "lucker".
Part of it is that people want an answer and they move on to the next search hit to see if the answers they are getting make sense. Or maybe they hope there's an easier/faster or cheaper solution they can try first. And then they forget where they got help. Who knows. Just human nature to jump through hoops to gripe but not take the time to acknowledge help.
Honda owners are especially nice about that stuff though.
haha, I knew what you meant.. and hey..no doubt about it..searching and then finding answers are definitely luck(i)er if they find 'em.. :shades:
I have noisy lifters most of the time hot or cold engine - what is the cost to have them readjusted? Also, periodically, i get a high pitch squeal that comes from the front right as I accelerate and then a few seconds later its gone. Thought it was breaks but after replaced still happens
Last item - can someone describe what I would feel (if there is any difference) for a 2WD vehicle that has misaligned front end or possibly bad tie rods/rocker arms. Steering wheel shakes and vibrates after going 45mph to about 65 then seems to be less pronounced at 70mph or higher
thanks
thanks.
The idea here is to try to isolate one key clue at a time. The fact that the battery light stays on, when all the others go out, helps it become a more predominant clue over all the other potential scenarios..
The more info u can provide the better, but start with questions exactly as asked above.
edit- if u do not have a digital multimeter then does the car start and drive and restart after doing shopping chores around town often..does it restart the car easily? - or if you have a multimeter but don't know how to use, then post and I'll repost..
I much prefer a gauge over a light. As an example in this case, a battery light will come on if there is an over charge OR undercharge condition.
I asked if there was a lot of fluid loss, was told no.
Any opinions are highly appreciated.
David
Edmunds paid $139.07 with tax after a discount for a B1 service on the long term tester.
I do have a question. Why is the oil change so much on this car? My dealer says a "regular oil change" for other years is 29.95 (which I pay on my 2004 CRV, but the 2012 use 0W 30 oil which they charge 59.95 for.
Is the oil that more expensive? I thought I heard them say it was synthetic, but the owners manual seems to imply that synthetic is an option, which to me means there is 0W30 that is not synthetic - Why so much for an O/C?
Regards:
Oldbearcat
I changed the oil last time as soon as the light went on. I realized afterwards I probably had another 1000 miles or so before it went to 5%. Given the price, I think Ill squeeze it as close as possible.
thanks
Regards:
Oldbearcat
Am looking at the 4wd version. Any input would be appreciated.
I am quite happy with my 2005 CRV LX. No repair to date (admittedly, miles are quite low); even the battery was still good after 8 years (I proactively replaced it earlier this spring).