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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i know you're not responding to my reply to the owner with the rear door problem...

    my only comment is that our 03 odyssey which my wife and i selected is "sage brush pearl". an interesting color that looks a bit blue, green, grey depending on lighting and surroundings. we chose this color because the interior was the darkest and our little ones are pretty tough on interiors. one challenge is keeping the exterior looking sharp, because it does show dirt...not as bad as i would think black or dark blue would.

    in atlanta, we have hardly a problem cooling the car quickly, first opening the front windows, and the rear side venting windows and putting the AC on high, then closing the windows. of course, we have cloth interior, not "leather", so that may play an important factor too. good thing to ask the question - not sure if external color or interior play the predominate role in interior temps while parked.
  • jazz5jazz5 Posts: 4
    Thank you for your reply! I really appreciate it!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798

    First off, that little green light by the words "Caps Lock" means that Capital letters are on. Writing in all capitals on the internet means you are shouting. Who are you yelling at? And what did we do to you that you are yelling at us for? :-(

    Second, yes the black leather will get hot. Whther it is hot outside or not. Any car with black interior sitting in the sun will get hot. If your kids are going to be getting in the car shirtless, and wearing shorts, they will be very uncomfortable sitting in the sizzling hot leather.

    Tinting your windows dark (including the front doors) and putting a sun shade in the windshield will help. Also, tilting the sunroof and closing the sun shade half way will reduce the amount of sun getting into the car, while allowing hot air to escape, but it still will be hot.

    In the winter, leather is much much colder, and even though the front seats have heaters, the back seats, where the kids will be sitting, don't.

    And no, Honda will not heat/cool quickly just sitting there idling, it needs to be driven to fully activate heating/cooling. So, a remote starter may minimize the problem, but will not solve it completly.

    Honda specifies steps need to be taken to quickly heat/cool the vehicle in the OWNER's MANUAL. So, if you do get it, read the manual 3-4 times to make sure you understand what needs to be done. :-)
  • jazz5jazz5 Posts: 4
    Thanks... and sorry about the caps - I realized it after I'd written it, and did not feel like re-writing the whole thing.

    I did buy the 06 SE from anderson Honda in Baltimore, Maryland. I felt that they gave me a good base price of $22,800 then $550 destination and then taxes, tags.... They were really nice to deal with and I loved working with the salesman, Bob Moragne - their internet sales manager. He is just a great guy and did not try to sell me a ton of other things I really did not want.

    I got a base price through my Sam's club membership from another dealer, and then Anderson matched it(before I remembered my sam's club membership the best price I had was $23,800, so it saved me a bit of money). I love my new CRV, and we'll deal with the hot summer days - you are right - the sunroof will definitely help.

    Thanks for your informed feedback! I really appreciate it. Happy New Year to you all!
  • terryp1terryp1 Posts: 55
    I'm hoping to hear back from anyone who has had to contact Honda demanding a final/successful repair or buy-back stemming from the pull-to-the-right problem with the CR-V. I want to know what you did and how you did it, and the response you got.
    Today we took our 2005 CR-V back to the dealer for the third time concerning the severe pull to the right when accelerating from a stop and all the while driving after that. The pull is constant but most severe when accelerating, especially from a stop. The first two visits the dealer did four wheel alignments. These visits were last summer and just two weeks apart. The second time they charged us $76.
    This time we had discovered the Honda Service Bulletin calling for realignment of the upper spring seat on the damper, which is a bit more involved than a wheel alignment. We took it with us and gave it to the service department represenative at check-in. It is obvious they had already known of this bulletin the last time we took it in but apparently they play hide the ball till you can tell them you know where it is. Not to bad-mouth the dealer too much, though, because I suspect this is a design flaw and Honda probably is very concerned about potential ramifications/expense if it had to fully correct the problem in every vehicle with these symptoms. I wonder if it might require a completely redesigned drive train. Apparently a number of people have complained to the NHTSA about this problem, which I intend to do, too.
    So today the dealer said they performed the corrective action called for in the service bulletin. And the vehicle still pulls severely to the right. That's the third and last strike as far as invoking Virginia's strict Lemon Law is concerned, though actually only one strike (repair attempt) is required if the defect seriously affects safety. I believe the pull is so bad that it is dangerous. We have to deliberately and consciously pull the wheel to the left at all times while driving in order to go straight ahead -- like walking a small but head-strong dog on a leash. There also is excessive and abnormal tire wear on the front tires with fewer than 10,000 miles, obviously from steering in one direction while the car tries to drive in another.
    We really like the CR-V. My wife, who is the primary driver, loves that it's compact but she still gets to sit up high in traffic. And the safety features please us considering that a new baby arrives within the next few weeks. But this steering problem is just too dangerous.
    Recently I thought the problem had self-corrected. But it turned out that a slow leak took the left front tire's pressure down to about 18-pounds and that evened things up as far as staying on the road is concerned. This remedy is not recommended.
    Any suggestions/advice appreciated.
    you can email me directly: terrypcarter -at-
  • master1master1 Posts: 340
    Just don't mention your salesmans name!
  • zaxcomzaxcom Posts: 5
    I blew out one of my BF Goodrich Touring T/A's and went to two dealers to get a replacement. The tire is no longer made. So the best they could do was offer to sell me another brand of tire. Since I still had my never used original factory Bridgestone Dueler as my spare I had them put that on the car in the right rear. So now I have 3 one year old T/A's and 1 Dueler on the car. Is this safe? Will it cause any problems?

  • Honda has a service bulletin 04-001 regarding rear light flicker. It was issued for the 02-03 model year but may carry over later? Turns out to be a combination of the rear door adjustment and a bad contact in the switch. Some of the switches had a connection bent over where it should be straight. Not too difficult for the dealer to replace. Best of luck with it.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    No, so long as the tires really are the same diameter, you should be fine. Tread wear of less than 20K miles shouldn't be an issue.

    Do keep an eye on your rear diff to be sure it isn't overheating. Just in case. Some tire manufacturers are less than accurate with the measurements on the sidewall.
  • zaxcomzaxcom Posts: 5
    So I measured all 4 of the tires from the edge of the rim to the top of the tread. I laid a ruler across the top dead centre of the tire and hooked a tape measure to the edge of the rim and measured up to the bottom of the ruler. All the tires came in between 5 1/8 and 5 3/8.

    I also measured the radius from the centre of the hub to the edge of tread and got around 13" on all tires, + - 2/8. According to my math my tires have a circumference of 81.68" I don't think I should have a rotational difference problem that would affect the rear diff.

    I also took the car on a twenty mile ride today and the rear diff was just barely warm to the touch when I finished.
  • patmpatm Posts: 13
    I love my 2005 CR-V SE but, I hate the way the spare tire cover is always crooked. Is there a way to remove the Honda logo so it isn't so obvious that it's crooked? Also a friend of mine told me to occasionally take the cover off, her tire got moldy under there.
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 300
    I gave up on trying to figure out a way to keep it even - just straighten it whenever it bugs me :) Just still wondering how does it really happen with the cover completely zipped.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    I love my 2005 CR-V SE but, I hate the way the spare tire cover is always crooked. Is there a way to remove the Honda logo so it isn't so obvious that it's crooked? Also a friend of mine told me to occasionally take the cover off, her tire got moldy under there.

    I run NEKKID :-)
  • me3me3 Posts: 30
    I took a 1/4 drill and drilled a hole straight down from the top of the hard cover and into the tire. Then I slipped a 4" carriage bolt into the hole. No need for a nut as gravity will hold it in place. Now my cover stays straight. I just hope I don't get a flat. ;)
  • calvinycalviny Posts: 13
    1. I havbe a 2003 CRv with only 23000km; I am thinking to purchase of the extended warranty 7 years/160,000km with costs of C$1500. Do you think it is worth to do it???
    (as I read this forum of so many AC compooressor exploded....)

    2. CRv is known for the wind noise; if I installed the window deflector on front 2 seat; do you think it will minimise the noise???

    thanks for the advise....
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    CRv is known for the wind noise; if I installed the window deflector on front 2 seat; do you think it will minimise the noise???

    Window deflectors will add noise, not reduce it.

    Changing the tires to a quieter tire will decrease the amount of noise inside the CR-V at highway speeds.

  • wijhwkwijhwk Posts: 7
    did the dealer resolve the problem? i have a 05 crv ex and the dealer told me that there was nothing wrong with it, had similar problem as you where a slight burning smell near the right rear wheel. any advice is appreciated.
  • My wife just encountered this problem today twice on our 98 CR-V (manual): at a stop sign, she cannot shift from neutral to gear 1, or any other gear. The gear stick just got stuck and wouldn't move from its neutral position. She kept release and press on the clutch several times but the stick wouldn't bulge. After a few minutes of trying, it did shift to gear 1. It happened twice on the way home at different stop signs.
    I tried to reproduce this after she got home but did not see the problem again.
    Does anyone has had this experience and know what is the root cause? Is the gear shift lose and I should bring it to Honda for checking?
    Thanks in advance!
  • I've had my '06 for 2 months now, 2500 miles on it.

    There was a stong smell at right rear when new. Dealer told me it was 'normal', from new exhaust system, and should be gone after 1000 miles.

    He also told me I should expect to smell winter road salt burning off the exhaust system at times.

    He was right.
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    My wife just encountered this problem today twice on our 98 CR-V (manual): at a stop sign, she cannot shift from neutral to gear 1, or any other gear.

    The clutch on the 1st Gen CR-V is hydraulic. Have you ever had the clutch fluid replaced? I believe it's the same as the brake fluid change interval: 3 years/45,000 miles.

    Of course I should take my own advice, as I have yet to change the clutch or brake fluid on my 1999 CR-V EX 5 speed manual.
  • Also change the manual transmission fluid with Honda manual transaxle fluid. I'm not sure if the shift linkages are accessible for inspection. If the problem persists after changing clutch and transmission fluid, it will have to go to a shop for inspection. Don't be afraid to take it to other shops for another opinion.
  • I'm not sure about the second generation CRV's, but the first generation upscale models have seats that can be made into beds that are not totally flat but more like a reclining lounge chair. You move the front seats all the way forward, take off the headrests and recline the front seats all the way then recline the rear seats all the way. Consult your owner's manual. You can also do this with the non upscale model (I get my EX and LX's mixed up) but the rear seat does not recline as far.
  • (I see that a number of CRV forums have been deleted, including the one for CRV engine fires. Others have been marked "read only" and have fewer & older messages than the engine fires forum had. Interesting.)

    I hadn't checked the NHTSA website recently - when I checked a few minutes ago, I found a report of another CR-V engine fire:

    Date of Failure: December 28, 2005
    Complaint #10146343
    Summary: Driving down the on ramp onto I-95 my 2005 CRV SE engine caught on fire. The last time I serviced the car was last week for an oil change. Since then I have driven over 300 miles with no problems or warning signs. The car is not totaled and I am dealing with the insurance.

    Didn't see any new reports for '04 CRVs, and there have been no complaints filed for '06 CRVs.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
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  • wijhwkwijhwk Posts: 7
    thank you for your reply.

    the dealer told me that did not find anything wrong at the present time, but did not tell me about the road salt issue. we have not had any snow the past two weeks in madison (wi) so it is hard to determnine the road salt issue.
  • annie9annie9 Posts: 1
    Currently, I drive a sedan but am looking to buy an SUV. I'm partial to Hondas, and the CRV has relatively great mileage and enough room for what I need it for. However, reviews say that it's not good off-road and doesn't offer V6. My question is whether you, anyone who owns a CRV, think it has enough power and handling in snow and uphill. Thanks in advance.
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    It handles very well in snow and on hills. I live in Indiana currently, but lived for three years in Rochester, NY with the CR-V. Never had a problem.

    If you're talking about serious offroading, driving through deep mud or rock hopping over boulders, buy a Jeep. For rough roads, dirt roads, and gravel roads the CR-V is great.

    If you're worried about power, or are considering towing a large or heavy trailer, you should be looking at the Pilot, Ridgeline, or Acura MDX.

  • I know what you are referring to. I have the same issue with mine and end up pouring the fluid in very slowly. Seems that the neck between the two tanks is small and creates an air pocket. If I try to fill too fast, the fluid bubbles over the top. Does any fluid make it in? The level can be checked directly by opening the driver's door and looking in the door jamb area where the tank is. Hope this helps!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,798
    Currently, I drive a sedan but am looking to buy an SUV. I'm partial to Hondas, and the CRV has relatively great mileage and enough room for what I need it for. However, reviews say that it's not good off-road and doesn't offer V6. My question is whether you, anyone who owns a CRV, think it has enough power and handling in snow and uphill. Thanks in advance.

    Like Racoon, said, If you are going to be rock climbing and participating in Paris-Dakkar rally, then CR-V is not for you. It is quite capable for mild to moderate off roading, and has enough power to climb almost any hill, as long as there is traction.

    If you are planning on doing more off-roading than this, then get a JEEP.
  • beep2beep2 Posts: 3
    Bought a 2006 CRV the end of Nov. Dealer didn't have 5 speed manual trans so he got one for me from out of state. I never got to test drive but because I've owned Honda's in the past I thought it was ok. Have an intermittent problem from day 1. About 75% of the time it won't shift into reverse. I have to play w/it, shifting through all the gears etc. Sometimes it takes 10-12 tries. Took it back to the dealer but it doesn't do it when it's there. They told me that I probably don't know how to drive "the newer manual trans". Suggested I put it in 4th then into reverse. Again, sometimes it'll work & other times zip. Took it back last week & they said to put it in 1st, let out on the clutch a bit as if I was going to drive & THEN shift into reverse. Tried it at home next day & wound up stuck in snowbank. When AAA came he tried putting in reverse & wouldn't go. Srv Dept insists the prob is with me. Spoke to dealership mgr & she also implied I'm not proficient at stick. Told her this is my 6th car of which 5 have been sticks.
    I'm at the point where I'm about ready to trade it! I can understand the dealers point since they can't replicate the problem but the way they're dismissing by assuming I don't know what I'm doing is annoying.
    Anyone else ever experience this? I'm at the point where I hate the car & it's only 6 wks old! :mad:

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