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thanks
I wonder if your fuse question is covered by the manual - any owners with similar experiences please jump in.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-escalade-ext-esv-forum-2007/129448- -wind-noise-2007-escalade.html
Good Luck,
Dave
After a lot of gibberish w/the local tow company and whatnot, about 2 & 1/2 to 3 hours later I was finally able to get towed out of the water...
NO water came into the cab and the agua level was just shy of the bottom of the door (19" from the ground) on the driver side and a few inches below on the passenger...It does have 24" wheels and 35 series tires, so it may be a touch lower than stock, but I dunno...
Obviously, the Escalade wouldn''t start after this event, but it did click and clatter and try to start on it's own while I was waiting for my tow...It has an aftermarket alarm system and an automatic start w/that system, so I'm wondering if that may have been the cause of it trying to start even w/the key out of the ignition??...
So, it's currently 'drying out' on the curb...The battery is dead right now from the alarm system trying to start it (I assume)...
My wonder is...Now what??...Do I charge that battery after letting it sit overnight and try cranking it up??...
And I DO realize the sheer stupidity of fording water in an EXT, but what's done is done, I suppose...
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I am new to this forum. I am the owner of a 2006 Escalade. I am currently experiencing starting problems where you turn the ignition and engine does not fire or turn. However, I have read several postings on this forum and other respective forums related to starting issues.
My wife was driving the SUV throughout the day and did not experience any problems with the vehicle starting or handling while driving. The SUV sat for 4 hours and would not start when I was attempting to go get dinner. I immediately, checked the battery and even tried to jump off with no success. However, my dash battery reading was within normal range and all components inside were operational. Next, I began my research by searching several forums and found several possible related issues. I tried several recommendations such as the following: 1) listening for the fuel pump to turn on by having one person turn the ignition while a second person listens to the fuel tank with gas cap off for two clicking sounds that would indicate fuel pump is turning on; 2) Checking the battery voltage; 3)checking cable connections; 4) checking spark plugs and wires; 5) Making sure the vehicle was in correct gear; 6) Try second key due to possible de-programming of original key (key may have been damaged by exposure to magnet or extreme conditions); 7) Checking fuses inside vehicle; and 8) Called the dealership (they repeated what was previous listed 1-7).
I recently found a listing related to starting issues for Escalades that seemed far fetched, but, it worked (bad steering wheel positioning sensor). The post provided instructions to try turning the steering wheel so many degrees to the left or right while turning key in ignition. It worked! I immediately called the dealership and asked the same person who I called less than 5 minutes ago. I asked have you ever heard of this problem before. His Response: Yes, I have. My Response: Why did you not tell me this when I originally called.... You get the picture. I can only assume some Escalade owners my be experiencing the same problem. It would be reason to believe that if your steering wheel positioning sensor is totally shot then any attempt to turn the steering wheel left or right would be fruitless. However, this may be the answer to many persons problems with random non start problems.
Oh! My instrument cluster was defective prior to this incident and was not on recall list. However, I reported the problem while under factory warranty and the dealership replaced this $800.00 part free of charge. Specifically, my battery display needle would randomly stick. Then the oil pressure gauge began to do the same. Finally, my speedometer needle would not go past 20 rpm. There is a recall for 2003-2005 and up instrument clusters from GMC/Cadillac Corp. However, I called Corp. and asked could it be possible I have the same instrument cluster that was installed on the 2005 due to part production dates (I have a 06). They would not respond and deferred to the recall for 2003-2005 in. Lucky, I reported the problem while my factory warranty was good.
Vibration Problems
I have 2008 22" OEM Cadillac Escalade Wheels on previous Escalade generation 2006 model. To resolve vibration issues I did the following: 1) dealership installed shims (eliminated knocking when turning); 2) New alignment/balancing; 3) New tires (use sensor from factory 2006 17" wheels) (Neo Gen Tires w/ 34-38 psi- varies with season). Wheels will vibrate in steering wheel for about 3 minutes or so when vehicle sits for prolonged periods (i.e. over 8 hrs) until tire pressure distribution settles due to heavy wheels. Believe me these wheels are very heavy. Hope this helps someone.
I have one concern that maybe someone can answer. The rear drivers door isn't aligned flush with the rear panel. It is in at least 1/8" at the mid point and has to be closed quite firmly to close properly. Is this a common alignment problem? If I move the catch out about 1/8" to make it align it will be slightly out at the top. Will it then whistle? Any suggestions?
Otherwise, I love the vehicle. Very sharp looking and really performs.
please email me if you did.
consejero@netzero.com
What? And deprive our other members of valuable information? It's best to keep the discussion right here so everyone benefits.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Some mechanics, rather than disconnecting the battery from the car, (specially since some cars have the battery in some really weird places now a day) disconnect the ground strap. It sounds like it's either still disconnected or lose. It should be somewhere under the car. It doesn't have any insulation on it and it looks like silver braded wires.
Good luck!, please let me know if that's what it was.
The fuel system runs on about 40 psi of pressure (there's a little shredder valve (like the one on your wheels) on top of the engine (it has a little black cap on it) that you can hook a gage up to and see what your fuel pressure is, should be 40-45 even when not running)
It works like this... there's a supply line and a return line from the fuel tank. The fuel pump is inside the gas tank(electric) it sucks fuel and send's it to each individual injector, the engine burns some of the fuel and the excess get's send back to the tank. This is done so you'll always have more fuel than you need. It's kind of a "closed loop" if you will. The fuel travels from the low tank to the high injectors. Vacuum and pressure keep the fuel "at the ready" at the injectors so when you turn the key you have immediate on demand fuel. OK so what may be happening is that you're losing your prime which is your immediate fuel supply. This means that the gas, through gravity, went back to the tank. This is caused by either a faulty injector or a leak in the system somewhere. It can also be a partially clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump going out. The reason sometimes it works may be that you start the car before the fuel has had a chance to leak back to the tank in it's entirety. For example if you shut the car off, wait a few minutes then try it again it will probably start.
The way to check this is by connecting a fuel pressure gauge to the shredder valve on the fuel rack when the car has been off for a while. Start by checking the pressure, if no pressure you'll probably have to take it somewhere to get it fixed as there's too many things that could be the cause. If you have pressure of some kind, replace the fuel filter, it's an inexpensive fix. It's probably not it but with 60K miles it probably needs replacing anyway. The next thing I would check is the resistance to the fuel pump as a faulty fuel pump is the most logical cause. Fuel pumps go out all the time specially when people make a habit of running their cars on empty since it needs to be completely submerged in fuel for proper lubrication. If it's neither of these things don't panic. Replacing this two items while troublesome is not that pricy and should be done anyway. When a fuel pump goes out, it doesn't care if you're on the freeway of going to church it just goes out and you're stranded. These may be symptoms, the pump may be trying to tell you that it's about to go.
Besides a loss of prime in the fuel system, it could also be that the pump is not pressurising the system sufficiently to overcome the spring pressure on the injector until it's running for a few seconds.
Replace the filter and the pump. If the problem persist you'll have to take it to a mechanic, but at least you'll have those two items new in your car... oh yeah, don't buy the cheapest pump either, buy the complete bolt on setup. More expensive but you don't want to be doing this again in a year since you have to lower your fuel tank to gain access.
good luck, JR
Help!!!!!
You could have low oil pressure due to a plugged oil pump screen, loose oil pump pickup tube, or a faulty oil pump.
By all means have SOMEBODY determine actual oil pressure. You don't want to be driving on low oil pressure.
The dealer called me today and stated that they have checked the oil pressure and pump etc, and there are no issues there. They beleive it to be something electrical which is causing the gauge to fall and the low oil pressure light to come on.
Does anyone have any thoughts about this.
Help:(
The mechanic is very adament about it not being the the gauge cluster.
Vajon was your oil gauge causing you the exact same problems and if so how long was it before the gauge cluster was found to be the culprit?
I don't know how to feel at this point. The dealer keeps ensuring me that they will find the problem and then laughed and said look at things on the other side....if the motor has a problem and they can not find it once it is taken apart, then cadillac will be sending a new motor and at least i will be the only driver on that motor.
I am so frustrated:(
Makes no sense.
Let's be rational here: either it's actual low oil pressure in the engine or it's an electrical/gauge issue. One or the other. Either the reading is "true" or it is false.
If true, tear down engine
If false, tear apart gauge system
Nate
thanks so much.
amanda
anyway, if anyone is having problems with their escalade doing the same as mine (see post 190) I reccommend starting in the fuel system....
gonna try it. let you know
if you keep your foot in same place it will maintain same speed let it sit for a day or so it will run fine for 100 or so miles. i have replaced cadilatic converters,fuel pump,spark plugs,wires. Please Help!!!! thanks ben
It COULD be the 02 sensor but you may not want to be guessing. A mechanic can usually test these for you.
here's everything you ever wanted to know about 02 sensors. Might save you some $$$.
http://wps.com/LPG/o2sensor.html
a rub, rub,rub type noise.
We rotated tires.
Replaced the drivers side wheel bearings.
Replaced brake pads and roders.
It only happens when we accelerate. It seems like the car is tilting lower on drivers side too.
Any ideas???
Also, it may have something to do with torque on the motor, so I'd check all drive belts for unusual wear patterns and also take a pry bar and check the tightness of all accessories, like pumps, compressors, etc.
Date: July 22, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Service Ride Control Message Displayed, DTC C0580 Set (Replace Right Front Shock Absorber Solenoid Connector and Install New A/C Suction Hose and Auxiliary A/C Evaporator Hose)
Models:
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade
2003 Cadillac Escalade ESV
2001-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2001-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL
with Rear Air Conditioning System (RPO C69) and Real Time Damping Chassis Package (RPO Z55)
Condition
Some customers may comment on the Service Ride Control message being displayed. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC C0580 set.
Cause
Poor clearance between the auxiliary A/C evaporator hose and the right front shock absorber damper solenoid connector may be the cause of this condition. Contact may occur damaging the connector and causing a poor connection at the damper solenoid.
Correction
Replace the right front shock absorber solenoid connector and install a new A/C suction hose and auxiliary A/C evaporator hose. These new A/C hoses will provide proper routing to prevent contact between the auxiliary A/C evaporator hose and the right front shock absorber damper solenoid connector. Use the procedure listed below.
1. Recover the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging in the HVAC sub-section of the Service Manual.
2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Manual.
3. Remove the right front wheel assembly.
4. Remove the right front wheelhouse panel.
5. Remove the nut and the auxiliary evaporator hose from the accumulator line block.
6. Remove the nut and the suction hose from the accumulator.
7. Remove the bolt and the suction hose from the compressor.
8. Install the new suction hose and bolt to the compressor.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
9. Install the new suction hose and nut to the accumulator.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
10. Release 4 line retaining clamps, starting at the wheelhouse and along the underbody towards the rear of vehicle.
11. From under the vehicle, mark the location on the auxiliary evaporator line where the line will be cut. Using the forward running board bracket as a reference, mark the location inline with the bracket-to-body bolt (1). If the vehicle is not equipped with running boards, mark the location inline with the bolt hole.
12. Using a tubing cutter, cut the marked section of the auxiliary evaporator line.
13. Remove the front section of the auxiliary evaporator hose from the vehicle and discard.
14. Install the new front section of the auxiliary evaporator hose into the vehicle.
15. On both sections of the auxiliary evaporator line, cut back the plastic coating approximately 76 mm (3 in).
16. Splice in the new front section of the auxiliary evaporator hose using J 41425 A/C Line Repair Kit and J 41425-750 splice. Refer to the Heater and A/C Pipe Repair-Auxiliary procedure in the Service Manual.
17. Install the auxiliary evaporator hose to the accumulator line block and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
18. Secure the line retaining clamps.
19. Install the wheelhouse panel.
20. Install the wheel assembly.
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Inject the oil into the A/C system that was removed during the recovery process using J 45037 A/C Oil Injection Kit.
23. Evacuate and recharge the refrigerant. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging in the HVAC sub-section of the Service Manual.
24. Leak test the fitting and splice using J 39400-A Halogen Leak Detector.
25. Replace the right front shock absorber solenoid connector using service connector, P/N 88986417. Refer to Wiring Repairs in the Wiring Systems sub-section of the Service Manual.