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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions
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Comments
ingeorgia
Plan on replacing the instrument cluster for $300
Due to some very kind forum members who left detailed instructions regarding how to fix this issue, I decided to give it a try. Since many members have expressed an interest in some pictures of the procedure, I thought I'd take a few while I was at it, and post them if I was successful.
Well, it's actually a very simple procedure, and only took me about 90 minutes, including the extra time to take the pix. My odometer and tach have worked flawlessly ever since. You may want to pick up a set of Torx screwdrivers or a set of hex-key wrenches before you start - you'll need them. You'll also need a small soldering iron, some 60-40 rosin core solder, some rubbing alcohol, and a few cotton swabs. I've shamelessly plagiarized the best of the posted procedures I used, added a few of my own observations, and distilled them into a pictorial step-by-step at the following link:
http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm
Good luck!!
Recently, the electrol-luminescent lights have not come on when I turn on my headlights. The rest of the instrument panel lights up normally but the cluster stays dark. Typically, the cluster remains dark and then after a couple of minutes it lights up normally. Last week it didn't light at all. The multiple turn stalk operates normally and all the relevant fuses are good. Before I get robbed by the dealer I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem and what the fix and cost were. Thanks,
Sebring5
Does anyone know how many driving miles it takes to reset the ODB on a 1998 Chrysler Sebring Couple 6 cyl once the battery has been disconnected?
I tried to get my Sebring emmissions tested and my ODB was reset by removing and replacing the battery cable. The Emissions dude said that I had to drive the car for a while before it could be read again. He said it could be 30 miles, 150 miles, or perhaps so many highway miles - that it varies car to car. Seeing he will charge me the 3rd time I cime back I want to make sure that I have driven the car properly to rest teh ODB.
First, let me thank you gentlemen for the great solution shown regrding the tach and odometer intermitentcy on my '97 Sebring. It's at about 97K. miles, and these features began having problems at about 60K. mi. The photosequence of repair should get some kind of reward- it was easy to follow, clear, and I did the fix in under an hour. Only problem is that I solved only half of the problem- the tach works great but the odometer/gear selection quadrant is black-nada. what did I do wrong? I must confess that when I soldered the connections on the back side of the p.c. board I may have soldered a bridge between the right three pinouts (viewing from behind) which may have grounded the indicator panel. Anyone have any experience/suggestions? Should I change the resistors in case they went bad?
Anyway, thanks again for the great help, and I'll be watching for any responses.
Thanks for your consideration,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
I went to change the radiator fluid last weekend and had a unpleasant suprise. Where the heck is the radiator cap and the fluid release valve? Its all covered by plastic I guess. My only conclusion is that I just got pimped by chysler because they want to force me to go to the dealer.
Where do I find the radiator cap and relase valve?
Jason
:shades:
It will eventually cool down the interior, but it takes a while to get it really comfortable - much longer than any of our other cars - all V6s, Ford and GM.
Anyone have a solution? I've checked refrigerant and it is in the proper range. Belt is also good.
My wife bought a 1998 Sebring convertible in 1999 with 25000 miles on the clock. It has been a gerat fun car and has now got something like 65000 miles up there with no sign of any real problems bar for the orange fuel pump flashing on the gauge on 3/4 of a tank. The service advisor at our agent has the same problem. We solved it by replacing the sender unit. The main hassle I have with this car is window rattle. Other Sebrings I have driven do not have this problem. I took it to a body shop who replaced some bearings or rollers in the back of no avail. The agent is out of his depth as he isn't too experienced on a) Convertibles and..b) bodies in general. Any experts out there? We're in Mountain View, California.
Any ideas on replacements? Already going to pull the crap foglights out and get some good 55w H3s in there. Otherwise, love this car, as long as I don't have to drive at night!!!
on firewall.there are three resistors side by side / take out the center resistor ,
replace . it will correct your alarm problem. you should see a green light come on when you lock it and close the door . also make sure your door adjar (red light)
located @top right of dash panel . I own a 97 lxi sebring coupe. my car was acting up sometimes . it was a nightmare .it took me two mounths to find the resistor was out ( it cost $12.00 ). after i changed the distributer,cap ,rotor,plugs
cranck shaft sensor.and the (ecm) which is the main brain for the car . it was'nt
out either.
ChazTheFixItMAn
I just got my 2000 Sebring out of the shop after it being there for a week. See msg 274 for problem. Anyway, they replaced the solenoid pack and the transmission controller....$1000. Had to rent a car to get back and forth so that set me back $300. What an expensive week and what a way to celebrate the 4th of July.
Frustrated Owner,
LiLoNe!
Said that it need to be replaced. I called the dealership on the part becuase no one else has one. The quoted me $113. But he said there was a bulletin about this part... something about re-programing them.
Don't know... think I am going to just buy the panel and see if that works
About 2-months after purchase I was in downtown Atlanta and mine started making a popping noise under the hood but was also felt in the steering at times and it scared me to death. It did it all that afternoon (I live about 45 miles south of Atlanta) then suddenly it stopped as quickly as it started. Right before I took it to the shop (a few days later) my air conditioner also tore up.
When I took it in I was told it was some sort of "rods" that go up into something and was told the warranty wouldn't cover it. I was also told by the mechanics assistant that it would not hurt the car nor myself that it was simply the rods and car adjusting to the road. I was then told if I wanted it fixed I would have to pay $190 just for the parts plus the labor. So needless to say after being told it really wasn't a problem and I didn't really have $190+ labor I didn't get it fixed. My air conditioner problem was some sort of valve and I only had to pay the $50 deductible to have it repaired.
Well a few weeks later guess what.......the air conditoner tore up Again! This time I called the salesman that sold me the car really upset. He assured me the car would be repaired again and not cost me a penny plus he would give me a loaner car. Upon taking the car immediately after work I was assured they would take the car right in and find out what was wrong. They called me the next day and said they couldn't find anything wrong and when I picked it up it was working....cold as ice.
Another few weeks passed by and a friend from work and me went to lunch in my car. On the way the air was ice cold but after eating and getting back into the Sebring the air never would get cold. It was like I had the heater on full blast! I immediately drove to the dealership and demanded a mechanic come out right then. I didn't turn the car off or anything.
After waiting for 10 minutes one came out and he fiddled with the switch, then popped the hood and said I'll be back in a few minutes. After waiting for another 10 minutes a female worker came over and said the mechanic thought the switch where you turn it off and on was bad and they'd have to order it. I was then told it would be ordered that afternoon (friday). I returned to work and when I went to go home guess what.....the air was working and it did this work not working thing all weekend and I was really ticked then my husband got ticked.
He called the salesman that monday and gave him an earful. He also told him about the popping under the hood and he told my husband that no knocking noise under the hood is good and he (the salesman) wanted them to check it out again when they worked on the air again. Right after the salesman and my husband talked I got a call from the female worker saying they just had ordered the part for my air that was supposed to be ordered on friday and it should be in by wednesday. Oh did I mention the salesman couldn't find a record of them even checking out the popping noise in the beginning?
The part came in and I was again given a loaner car to drive. They kept my car for 5 days (2 of them they were closed). When they called to tell me it was ready I was told they replaced the lower left control arm that it is what was popping. I looked that part up and what I found was very "Scary". It said that if this part goes bad...cracks, breaks, crumbles, etc. that it can tear apart and cause a wreck because you will have no control!!!
Well yesterday is when I got the car back and I have already heard the popping noise several times still. I am driving for a longer distance tomorrow (it seemed that is when mine did it the most) so we'll see how it goes then. I feel sorry for the dealership if it continues to do it once my husband get a hold of them again. We live in middle Georgia and are going in my car to Orlando Florida this coming week for vacation and I have to admit its a scary thought. Don't buy a Chrysler Sebring........I wish I never had bought this car and I never again will own a Chrysler, Dodge, or Jeep product. Buyers Beware.
I was wondering if anybody else has had these problems, and if they could tell me how to fix it, how much it might cost, and any other information I might need about my new used car. Or if I should just give up on this car and go look for a better, more reliable one.
I replaced the radiator cap because it was in pretty bad shape. I'm still running hot, tho - For about the first 2 miles it's fine, but then you'll see the temp gauge move up quickly to the middle of the gauge. Then it'll slowly climb toward H, and it'll hover back and forth between just below H and the middle. And the fan is always running.
I'm thinking maybe the next step is the thermostat - but darned if I can figure out where the silly thing is. So question 1 is, does this sound like a simple thermo issue? I don't see leaks so I don't think it's the plugs or hoses, and my coolant levels are good. Maybe the water pump? But if it is worth changing the thermo (I already have a new one in a box), can someone tell me where I'd look for it? I thought it was right under the cap assembly but I am stumped.
Thanks in advance!!
There simply isn't enough room to pull the whole filter housing out of the engine compartment w/out first removing the band securing the fat air tube to the engine. So just undo the band @ the engine connection (couple turns of a screw), unhook the cables attached to the filter box & anything else that may get yanked when pulling the box out *Except the SENSOR*- I didn't want to risk damaging it so I left it stuck in the air tube and was careful not to yank that tube out entirely. Then you will have the filter housing box & air tube separated from the vehicle but still stuck in the engine compartment (again, except for the sensor). It will take a few minutes of fiddling & adjusting- but you'll have just enough room to push the unit towards the steering column giving you just enough clearance (less than 1") to pull the housing & tube UP & OUT & clear of the engine (there's just enough sensor wire to get it almost clear of the engine compt). Now you can use those snaps to pull the tube clear of the housing & while your in there- why not clean out some of those trappings caught in the dust/leaf trap in the bottom of the air filter housing. As long as you can put it all back together w/ out missing a step you'll be good to go! Hope this helps those who, like me, couldn't find a single article on replacing this item. Good Luck!
Thanks for your immediate help.