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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions
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second question is could this be related to the ac not working? when i turn on the ac, the compressor also turns on, so i don't think it is a bad compressor.
this is a 1996 sebring convertible jxi with the 2.5 liter engine.
any help or thoughts would be appreciated. thanks alot.
I have just placed a cardboard board under the car to see where the antifreeze is leaking from.....it's apparently not leaking by the thermostat.....I am confused, as I see no other leaks at the moment, and don't want to get hosed for a water pump or some other expensive part if that's not the problem.
let me know if you hear anything from anyone else, would you? thanks.......
you can reply to my email even........
janet
Sorry - just now saw this reply. Tried to do the e-mail thing but I got some silly Internal Server Error.
The fact that when you are moving, the car cools down, is probably a major clue that a "Mopar" guy would be able to tell you right away what it is. Of course, I'm NOT that guy, so I will tell you what I know from what I've recently read / discussed with others.
I talked to a Chrysler guy, and one other guy who I'd call somewhat of a gearhead, and both guys said "It's probably your thermostat". I really didn't want to replace it on my own, because I'd hate to mess it up - but I'm going to give it a go tomorrow (wife's orders).
Have you figured out where your leak is coming from yet? Haynes Automotive Repair Manual (library, or $16 at AutoZone) has a troubleshooting section that might help. I'd stay away from Chilton's because Haynes kind of gets down to my level more than Chilton's does. Anyway, I don't have a leak, but if you do, it could be anythin gfrom damaged hoses or loose clamps, to your water pump, or a radiator core leak. They list other possibilities as well depending on if it's an "External" or "Internal" leak.
If it is your thermostat, it's not so much that it'll leak from there - if it's stuck open, or shut, it needs replaced. If it's stuck open, you can tell because your car takes a long time to warm up - replace the thermostat. Another test is if your car is running hot, and you put your hand on the upper radiator hose, and the hose isn't hot, your thermostat is stucked CLOSED and you need to replace it. If the car is hot, and the upper hose is hot, then your thermo is doing its job and it's something (gulp) else. From what you're telling me, I have a sneaking suspicion that it isn't your thermo - hopefully someone who's more knowledgeable than me will read this and help us out.
One more thing - you might even just check the radiator cap. I pulled mine off and it was really gross and needed replaced.
Kevin
Anyone else with this problem, and is there a reasonable fix for a do-it-yourselfer?
Thanks
A common problem with these cars is carbon buildup on the EGR valve. The valve remains open and introduces too much exhaust gas back to the cylinders. It is not noticable at speed, only at idle. EGR valves can be had for around $70 at Kragens and are not all that difficult to replace. Before you spend the money tho, remove the valve and clean it (soak it) with carburator cleaner. Be careful not to get the electronics wet. Let us know how it goes! Let it dry & reinstall. I think you will see an improvement.
Let us know how it goes & Good luck!
I just got it back together and added coolant directly into the neck leading up to the radiator cap, and I checked the reservoir. Then I drove it for a while, but it got hot again. When I stopped the car, I saw the reservoir showed a bit low, but above "add" - And I didn't see any apparent leaks. I added a bit more fluid to the reservoir, but my question is this. Haynes and Chilton say to bleed the system. This model is not equipped with a bleed valve that I know of. How do you bleed the darn thing? I'm wondering if this is my problem. I guess next on my list is either the water pump or the radiator core is blocked or something. But I know it's not a leak, the thermostat or the radiator cap.
I hate cars.
I appreciate all the help
I think mine could have been loose and when I washed my car at the carwash the pressure from the power washer could have cause the break. I'm extra carefull now when I use the power washer to use just low pressure on the rear window.
Initially I was told that the wheel bearing were bad and probably caused a vibration that in turn caused the lugs to come off...
Today I drove my daughter to school, I came home parked the car an went out later on (about an hour and a half later) and saw a small puddle of fluid (looks like water) coming from under my car. I investigated and saw it was dripping from somewhere in the front more towards the passenger side. I dont know what to do or what it could be. I didnt hit anything or fall into any potholes....
I'm so worried about my car - it now has 59,707 miles on it. when I purchased it a year ago (November, it had 39597 miles). and it seems it might have nothing but problems left...
Anyone have any problems similar to mine??
Went to change a burnt headlight bulb on the wifes 01 Sebring and I'll be damn if I can figure out how to get to the bulb..it's buried !! Does the whole front end of the car have to come off :mad: "> I hate to even think about the battery..that's buried so deep you can barely see it !! Anyway, any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated
This is how things happened:
1) Pulled into gas station and opened door with engine running.
2) Opened door to check gas cap was on driver's side.
3) Leaned over to turn key in ignition lock and left keys in.
4) Closed door and proceeded to fill gas.
5) Returned to driver's door to find it locked!!!!!
When I called Avis, they accused me of "accidentally" hitting the power lock and that this lockout problem was mine. I did no such thing as you could clearly see that the door lock was still up while the door could not open from the outside.
Since Avis had no psare keys, I used AAA to bail me out. I had the driver verify that the door lock was still up and he used his tool and was also puzzled that it was locked. Instead, a different tool was used to pulled the inside lever and the door opened.
When I returned the car at Orlando Airport I explained it to the clerk I was returning the car to. I wanted to demonstrate the same problem again. She was smart enough to lower the window first. Did same thing as above steps 1 through 5. Voila! Door is locked with key still in ignition.
Beware! This may be a problem with a new model. With only 300+ miles, it was either a 2005 or possibly a 2006 if they are now out.
If you know of any solutions, please let me know.
Thnaks,
Jerry
Regards:
Oldengineer
Sam
If the dealer cant find a problem what recourse do we have. I wonder if others are having this problem. Im thinking about calling chrylser customer service.
I'll let you know what happens
Jerry
There are aftermarket conductive adhesives that will work for a while but eventually will fail again. I spliced in about 3 inches of wire to the harness and reglued the tab on. Permatex makes a one-shot kit available in auto parts stores (~$11). Frost Fighter markets a multi-use 2 part silver adhesive kit (available on-line www.frostfighter.com/ff_pdt_2000.htm) for about $25. Seems to be working well now. This is a tight spot to work in and there is little room for error. If you're not comfortable with automotive wiring, don't do it yourself. I know I don't need to say this but I'll say it anyway. DO NOT try Superglue or anything of the sort. The adhesive MUST be electrically conductive to work.
I believe the factory fix is to replace that part of the harness with a longer version and reattach the tab.
The car is a "used" 2004 Limited Convertable. Really though, the car is still new. It was bought at the end of the '04 model year and parked. Today the car has about 1500 km on it. It is being sold for $25,000 CDN.
From what I understand the newer Sebrings are more reliable than the old ones. This car is nice to drive and handles well, and the price is right (Regular retail is close to $40,000). I just want to be sure that 5 years from now I'm not regretting having bought the car.
Anyone with an '04 that has any comments?
(1) Tachometer/Odometer not working properly.
(2) standing water on the floorboards after rain/or wash-down.
(3) intermittent Starter failure and blown 20 amp Starter fuse, under the hood.
By the way does anyone have a solution to item #3. I've had (3) starters installed in the last 4 years, and when the problem (no ignition, and blown/blowing 20 amp starter fuse)occurred last week the dealer finally removed the starter and had it tested. Lo and Behold it was a GOOD starter, and when it was re installed everything worked OK. Now I cross my fingers every time I start the car.
Does anyone know why this 20 amp starter fuse blows, and the starter fails every so often????
I recently bought a 1999 Sebring convt. with 55,000 miles. I also have a 2001 Sebring convt. which we have had for 3+years. My question is about the "lockup".
My '01 seems to "lockup" much quicker than the '99. The '99 will not "lockup" until 45-48 mph whereas the '01 locks at about 30. I am using same driving technique with both vehicles.
Is there something I can do to get the '99 to "lockup" quicker as does the '01?
Is this a problem or just this individual trans.?
Also, am I correct in thinking both cars have same trans.?
Thanks,
Rick
1. Obtain a multimeter that can measure DC amps/current.
2. Set the multimeter to measure DC current.
3. Make sure the car is off and the key is out.
4. Disconnect the positive battery cable.
5. Place one lead of the multi tester on the battery post and the other on the disconnected battery cable and note the current draw.
6. Replace the battery cable.
7. Remove fuses, one by one, and check for current flow in each circuit until you have accounted for all the current draw noted in step 5. You can expect to see some small amount of current draw for radio memory and such. I will probably be pretty obvious which circuit is the current hog.
8. Once the offending circuit(s) are located, leave the fuse out and see if the battery stays charged overnight. If it does, you've at least located the circuit that is drawing the battery down.