Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

ray_h71 · May 2004

pakoffee, look for a small slotted "grill" in the HV-A/C module on the console. Tear a piece of toilet paper (no kidding...) slightly larger and place it over the grill area when the HV-A/C is operating. If the tissue sticks because of suction, that's a good sign - the control logic mechanisms sample cabin air temp to automatically adjust the temperature. If the tissue falls away immediately, there's an internal tube that's kinked, not allowing the sensors access to the cabin air temp. This hose is about 6' long, so replacing it yourself is a pain in the butt. Your dealer's service department should be aware of this problem as Hyundai has several TSBs out about the problem you describe.

randys · May 2004

I've got a 2001 Sonata and have had to replace the O2 sensors - both sides - twice due to the Check Engine light coming on. Once at 40,000 miles (60,000kms) and again at 80,000 miles (120,000kms). What makes this even worse is that they also charge me for putting the car on the scope to diagnose their defective part as well as the charge for parts & labor. In message 188 there was a reference to recalls for these parts. Are there alot of 2001 Sonata owners having this problem? Is it a known problem? The reason I am asking is because Hyundai Canada has said there is nothing they can do for me but as far as I'm concerned, this is not normal maintenance repairs and Hyundai is selling known defective parts. One indicator that this is a known problem is that I was told by a local Hyundai service technician that the parts were replaced with a new type of sensor. Please let me know if there is data out there to support my concerns.

ray_h71 · May 2004

It all comes down to the duration of your car's federal and provincial emisions control warranty. Your "Hyundai 2001 Owner's Handbook & Warranty Information" supplement booklet details the various coverages. In my case in California, the four O2 sensors's on my Sonata V6 2 yr./24,000 miles (40,000 km) federal warranty would be extended to a total of 3 yr./50,000 miles (83,333 km). The more liberal California emissions system waranty came out of my pocket up front as a seperate listing on my window invoice. (There ain't no free lunch...) Subsequent failure would be considered a normal consummable and on my nickel. In the case of O2 sensors, they're constantly exposed to the nasties of engine combustion, so failure was never a matter of "whether", but rather, "when". (Hey, better them than your lungs, eh?)

By the way - lotsa parts, not just emmissions related, are subject to re-engineering and improvement over the design life of a particular car model. Unless these improved parts are subject to in-warranty failure or specifically subject to federally mandated safety recalls, replacements are always on the owners' nickel. Deal with it.

cuda71 · June 2004

I have a 2003 Sonata with 15000 miles. The speedometer will work most of the time but sometimes when you turn the lights on it will quit working. Had it to the dealer and they can't find anything wrong just like they can't smell the musty smell that is in the car.Anyone have any ideas about the speedometer??
Thanks

ray h · June 2004

Yeah, cuda71 - see another dealer whose service departmant gives a tinker's hoot about customer satisfaction. I believe these are electronic speedometers tied into the engine control module to data from the tranny's final drive speed sensor. Though not directly related to wheel rotational speed, it would be proportionate to wheel rotational speed and could be used by the speedometer's circuitry to reflect vehicle speed. It might be something as simple as a poor connection. In any event, Hyundai maintains a diagnostics service for dealers that service department personnel can log onto for live, real time information. As to the musty smell, sounds like you're in a high humidity area and with recent warmer temperatures, mildew is doing its thing. My previous '96 Accord would get that problem periodically. I found a 50% dilution of "PineSol" and water poured through the ventilation grill on the firewall, and allowed to "work" for an hour, followed by a hose rinse, would take care of the musty odor for the rest of the season. If you typically use the "Fresh" air mode when running your car's HVAC system, that may be part of the problem, too. In so doint, you're constantly bringing in outside moist air, dehumifying it and cooling it, only to exhaust it back outside just when you paid in gasoline to get it fit to breathe. I use the "Recirculate" to limit the amount of outside air that's cycled through the car (some will always be brought in even in "Recirculate"). But, this way, there's less load on the air-conditioning system, (read that less gasoline burned) and less humid air brought in to continually condense water on the evaporator core tubes, drip into the bottom of the evaporator case and sit there encouraging the spawning of ever more mildew spores.

mike91326 · June 2004

How much PineSol/water do you pour in through the outside vents? I assume you don't want to pour it too fast or it could overload the drain and come into the car. Also, could it get into the fan motor?

ray h · June 2004

About a 1/2 a quart of solution poured in slowly should suffice. The core casings have a one-way flapper-valve and tube to drain excess water anyway. (Ever notice the dripping of condensation underneath the car in the vicinity of the firewall with air conditioning on in high humidity? Also keep in mind that when your car is parked outside on a rainy day, water is entering those louvres, too, and either floods onto the front floor board {which doesn't happen unless something's seriously wrong - plugged tube or the like} or exiting out through the designed-in drain - if you ever have your car undercoated, first be sure to find that tube end and stuff something in it temporarily) The idea is to get the PineSol solution (or whatever disinfecting/deodorizing cleaner you prefer) to the areas at the bottom of the heater core and evaporator core area of the casing which don't drain completely to disinfect 'em. Intriguing question about the fan, but I've never been aware of water entry into blower fan motors. Apparently the engineers practice due dilligence regarding how the fans are located and oriented. (I think on my Sonata the motor juts out horizontally from the case, above its bottom, but it's been awhile since I observed it while installing an in-cabin air filter...)

sonata01 · June 2004

Hey guys; forgive me for being one of those sound/react freaks; old school I guess. Can someone help me? I have a 2001 Sonata GLS V-6; bought it new. Ever since I've had it I hear a "clicking sound" when I start the car. The only way I can explain it is that it sounds like the battery isn't strong enough to turn over the car or the starter clicks (if you know what I mean), but in my case the car starts fine. It's just this clicking sound more so than not. Does anyone else notice this with their Sonata? I either can't get the dealer to hear it or they say it's normal. I just don't want to be left sitting somewhere, especially after the warranty runs out. Hope you understand; just don't know how to explain it any better at this point.

rexd · June 2004

I have a 2004 sonata and I have noticed that when I play cds I get occasional static(crackling) that sounds exactly like I was playing an lp. Has anyone else had this problem or know what could be causing it? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

ray h · June 2004

Possibly a dirty CD - if the player has to read the same area multiple times because of dust or finger prints, or has to "correct" for insufficient or missing data, a "click" may result. (CDs -can- be gently washed in cool water with a few drops of liquid dishwashing detergent, then blot or gently wipe dry in straight draws from center to edge with a clean cotton towel. !!!BUT, NO PAPER OF ANY KIND!!!). A poor electrical ground problem could also be an issue. If you suspect this, bring it to the attention of your dealer's service department. Factory audio systems are "only" covered for the first 3 years/36,000 miles in the U.S. The real problem here is that the "clicking" and "popping" is intermittant - electronics probs never act up in the presence of a tech (some corollary to Murphy's law or something...).

mjg_2004 · July 2004

I have a 2002 sonata that has about 58000 miles on it. While im driving it out of no where changes to 3rd gear and gets stuck on it. No up nor down. Changed the filter but no progress.... HELLLP!!

ray h · July 2004

Not good, mjg. 3rd gear lockup is the last ditch "limp home" mode. It may be simple and cheap (i.e. a sensor or the like), or "deep" and VERY expensive. Whatever the case, you need to have the fault codes read by a Hyundai dealer using their "High-Scan" tool to make the diagnosis, so do not disconnect the battery or they'll be lost from volatile memory in the ECM. Since your car has fewer than 100,000 miles on it, this sounds like Hyundai's problem, not yours, unless you've drained and re-filled with a non-approved ATF. (ONLY Hyundai, Kia, or Mitsubishi SP-III ATF*. NEVER "universal" Dexron III! NEVER supplements such as Lubegard in the black bottle that purport to "convert" Dexron III to trannie manufacturer factory fluid specs!) Hyundai's standing procedure in case your trannie comes up with "deep" problems is a complete trannie swap. Avoid an independent trannie shop with your malfunctioning trannie like the plague - you could inadvertently void your powertrain warranty for this claim because most of 'em don't bother using the expensive proprietary fluids. Typically they keep two fluids on hand in bulk barrels - Type "F" for certain Fords, and Dexron III for everything else with a supplement to mimic the shift quality of factory proprietary ATF. (at least past the shop's nominal 90 day "warranty"...)

*SP-II -may- have been the factory fill fluid in some 2002s, but it hasn't been available for restock for field service since late 2002. SP-III is now the only approved service fill for all Hyundai automatics since MY 1996.

droe77 · July 2004

Weird situation here. 2 days ago I replaced the factory battery in my '02 Sonata (2.7 V6) after it began to die (slow start-up followed by a battery test that registered 6V at crank). I replaced the battery with a DieHard Gold and all of a sudden tonight while stopping at a light and making a right turn, I noticed that my clock was flickering.

There was no pattern to it. It almost appeared to surge and get brighter and then flicker to dim and then back to normal. It did this a few times and then stopped for the last 10-15 miles of my ride.

Also, nothing else electrical seemed to dim, fail, etc. My headlights, fog lights and all dash lights stayed constant. I shut off my fog lights and lowered my AC fan a bit, and then turned them back on/up along with my stereo and I couldn't get the problem to repeat.

Anyone have any thoughts on what this could be? Is this related to the new battery or just coincidental?

bheasley · July 2004

I have a 2002 Sonata GLS V6 (80k)and I have a low volume of air coming out of the A/C (see descr. below) but the blower sounds like it is running at high when set to high.

When I start the vehicle cold, I can get a full volume of A/C through the vents; however, if I then turn it down to low, and later, 15 minutes or so, want it back up to a higher level, the volume of air stays low. Sometimes between 5 - 15 minutes it MAY come back to a high volume of air. The dealer mechanic replaced the A/C electronic unit (they say) but it is still occurring. Any ideas anyone?

ray h · July 2004

Not a clue, but your description sounds like something is periodically moving and interferring with air flow inside the heater core/evaporator case. Insects and rodents sometimes get inside and nest - yeah, and that can mean a colony of the varmints, too. Any unaccounted odors? This might be more of a problem if the car is routinely parked outdoors. Has the cabin air filter ever been replaced? If a dealer opens the case to check and clean it out, figure more than $100.00 in labor. If you wish to check it out yourself, the URL below will list a blow-by-blow complete with descriptive photos how to gain access to replace the cabin air filter. Once access is gained, removing the three nuts that secure the fan to the case would give you a chance shine some light inside to check for unwanted tennants. (When I worked in a discount store's photo section one summer as a kid, a woman brought a Polaroid camera in and asked if I would load it for her with new film. When I opened the back, out skittered about 6 or 8 cockroaches. Scared the livin' c**p outa me because my first thought was they were black widows. Keep a pair of gloves on hand in case a pair or two of beady red eyes stare back at you...)

http://www.geocities.com/sonatafan/

ray h · July 2004

If your Sonata has fewer than 60,000 miles on it, take it to your dealer if the problem recurs. This would (well, "should"...) be a warranty item under the bumper-to-bumper coverage. The event may have just been coincidental or a temporary glitch caused by the old battery's under voltage that needed time for the car's electricals to resolve. I have -no- basis in prior experience or theory for assuming this - just a wild-eyed guess. The thought also occurs to me that the new battery, factory fresh though it was at time of installation, may have needed some charge time to fully stabilize. (lodged hydrogen gas bubbles that developed between the plates over time of inactivity may have needed time to work themselves out as the car was initially driven with resultant voltage spikes, or some such...) Ordinarily, various voltage regulators in the car's critical systems stabilize the effects of voltage fluctuations, but, maybe the clock isn't considered important enough to warrant such attention. ('nother wild-eyed guess...)

sonatabean · July 2004

I noted many of you posting about what appears to be a transmission "kick" that happens randomly with your cars.

I have a pair of 2000 Sonata GLS V6 w/ pkg 13 and auto. I had a similar incident in the first 20,000 miles with my car some years ago (both bought new - on the same day, no less, in Spring 2000; my car now has nearly 60,000 miles on it).

I also had the dealership, "we can't do anything until you reproduce the defect" song and dance.

One thing I noticed with my car was that what appeared to be a transmission "jerk" happened when I was *VERY* gently accelerating or coasting.

Then - one day, while coasting on the highway, that little kick was not so little and, in hopes of making the car upshift to get up to speed, I pushed the accelerator to the floor. What happened then was much like riding a jack-hammer with leather seats: the car wildly, rhythmically shuddered violently and dropped speed. I pulled over and shut off the engine . . . and then restarted the car: it ran fine that moment, but I took it straight to the dealer for a diagnostic.

FORTUNATELY - when the incident I just described happened, the car threw a code and, per the code, what was apparently wrong was a sensor relating camshaft position - a sensor that then specifically takes camshaft data and uses that data to fire the spark plug - was working improperly.

The part was shipped from Korea and replaced.

I was told that such a problem should NEVER happen - that I was the victim of an unlucky defect.

BUT - the story does not end here, I'm afraid.

You see, I was taken by the low price, nice looks, and comfort of the 2000 Sonata.

So much so, we bought *TWO* identical cars that fateful day, if you remember.

I remind you my car has 60,000 miles on it: I drive highways a *LOT* to visit my family.

My other half drives the identical car only a few miles a day - with the every-other-weekend trek out on the expressway (mall, visit friends, sight-see, etc.) and therefore has 32,000 miles on that particular-but-otherwise-identical car.

Last week, the second Sonata (32,000 mi) began to show the same symptoms. I kept hearing, "It's the transmission - the transmission is failing on my car!" SO - like all good (or at least world-weary and conflict-avoidant) hubbies, I drove the car . . . and what do you know: I got the same sort of "jerky" or "missing a gear" feeling that my car had before my sensor incident. AND - it no less happened under the gentlest acceleration or maintained coasting.

I wish I could tell you all what the name of that particular sensor is. My own experience told me that what I was facing was a transmission issue . . . but it was, in fact, something else entirely but equally relevant to getting power from the engine to the rubber to the road.

I now hope I can get a repeat performance in the low-mileage car that I had with the high-mileage car, so we can get a new sensor in before the warranty expires next year.

Sonata is nice for a cheap car . . . but with two, a series of incidents, and over 70,000 miles between the cars . . . I'm going for a base-model VW Diesel next: fewer headaches.

ray h · July 2004

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Your alternate car may have already thrown a code. In any event, don't disconnect the battery -- doing so will wipe any that may be stored in memory. VW and its Audi sister division aren't without their own problems for the last couple of years, either. What you save on fuel costs can be eaten by VW's finnickey motor oil requirements. (Actually that's true of all German makes these days, at least those models available in North America.) Unless you're married to the idea of diesels (owned four of 'em, myself, in the past -- mixed reviews...), consider at least looking at Honda Accord and Toyota Camry. (Yeah, they cost significantly more to purchase than does a Sonata, but they both return a significantly greater percentage of that original purchase price when traded or sold, too.) Perusing the Edmonds VW, Toyota, and Honda townhalls may be enlightening.

anaree · July 2004

Ok everyone, I own a 2003 Sonata with a sunroof and when im driving w/drivers window down a little, I get this thumping noise from the sunroof(at least it sounds like its from there). When I close the window it stops, re-open it starts again.
Has anyone had this problem and if so what is causing this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a bunch

ray h · July 2004

Several thoughts - none of which may actually apply, but...

Have you opened and closed the inner shade when the thumping occurs to see whether its position makes any difference?

Have you opened and closed the sunroof when the thumping occurs?

Have you made certain the sunroof is fully closed to its stop?

Finally, make certain something else isn't being whipped about by the wind buffeting - such as the passenger side shoulder harness, particularly if the buckle was left turned inward toward the door pillar by the last occupant. ("CSF" [clueless spouse factor] - the leading cause of divorce and mahem in America...) The way sounds can telegraph through metal structures, it's often difficult to assess where noises are really coming from.

jk27 · July 2004

If I understand what you're saying, I have experienced this, as well. If it only occurs with 1 window open. Try opening a window on the other side of the car just a bit to equalize the air pressure. That should stop the noise.

killerk · July 2004

Hey, guys. I have 2000 GLS pkg 13 w/ 70K on it.

The antenna got bent and it doesn't go down all the way. When I shut the radio off, the motor makes the clicking noice trying to pull the antenna down. The dealer is asking for $200.

Was wondering if one of you could give advise on the feasibility of replacing this. Thanks.

anaree · July 2004

Thank you Ray & jk27,
I have tried everything. Funny is you can only hear it when it rains a good amount and when 1 window is open. When i put the back of it open,no noise, put it down you get the noise,close my window and no noise---ugggghhhh!!!! Driving me crazy when it does do it. When I shut the shade you can hear it just a little, not as loud, so I dont think it has to do w/air getting in, i think its water cuz other wise I would hear it all the time ya know, and I dont only when raining.
Well I appreciate your response, ill keep lookin and If I find where its comming from ill write again. Thank You Very Much!!!

ray h · July 2004

I had something similar happen on an '82 Datsun (remember when they went by that name?) Maxima. The dealer wanted $145.00 plus labor, so I just bought an aftermarket auto up-down power antenna for about $35.00, spliced its power wiring into the existing leads going to the original antenna, and "adjusted" the original support bracket to accomodate the new antenna. Worked fine, though it wasn't as well sound insulated as the original -- only a brief annoyance for the first few seconds the radio head unit was turned on or off. The original antenna worked for about 2 years. The replacement from Pep Boys was still going strong in '94 when I sold the car. Only problem I ever had with that car. If you don't feel up to the task (not rocket science, but it does require splicing, and crimping or soldering), buy the antenna for the best price you can find and take it to one of the aftermarket car stereo shops for installation. You'll still beat the stealership by a good margin.

killerk · July 2004

Thanks ray_h.
Was wondering what "model" I should get? Searched web, but wasn't sure whether I found the right replacement model for my Sonata.

Anyway, would replacing this bent antenna in anyway void the warranty on the car??? Thx.

ray h · July 2004

If you're referring to the balance of the 10 yr./100,000 mile Hyundai powertrain warranty, the answer is, "no", since there's no functional connection between the engine/transmission and a radio antenna. What brand and model automatic power antennas have you researched?

killerk · July 2004

ray_h, I just did a Google search. But I'm not sure what I find are the right parts.

I guess I'll just go to Pep Boys or some other parts stores and see if I can find the right part...

ai3xskc · July 2004

I own a 2000 Sonata V6 with 114000 kms on it. The car has been problem free except for the CEL problem.

I was in for the CEL check-up this morning with my mechanic and they informed me that there's been numerous complaints with the CEL problem in regards to the O2 sensors and that a campaign in the US has brought Hyundai to deal with the problem as a recall and service the O2 sensors. This is great news for me since I'm well beyond my warranty (Canada only HAD 3 year/60000km coverage). If anyone has such problems go to your dealer and ask about the campaign regarding the O2 sensors.

Steve

ai3xskc · July 2004

I seldom get that "jerk" in the transmission too but it has never progressed to the point of your description. Maybe another campaign will bring Hyundai to give a closer look.

Regarding your possible next choice of VW.... I would highly reconsider. Go onto VW forums and read their problems & solutions and you'll notice the plethora of problems they have. Personally, I have 2 friends that own VWs (Jetta 1.8T and Golf TDI) and let me describe you the problems they have had.

The Golf TDI is the more "reliable" of the two. After driving 11kms off the lot, the turbo seized and they had to completely replace the turbo. Then, when he went to pick up the car, after several weeks later, the power windows malfunctioned. That was about a year ago, and since then he has taken a job out of the city so I haven't heard from him.

The Jetta 1.8T was the WORST. The car had radio, power windows, O2 sensors, numerous CEL .... the list goes on. After 1 year of ownership, he sold the car and bought an Accord. I also heard of similar hardship from a friend's mother who owns a Jetta.

VWs have one of the smoothest rides and impeccable interior qualities but mechanically, they're prone to malfunctions. If ONE problem is deterring you from purchasing another Hyundai then you'd better stay away from VW. If trouble free ownership is your priority then look into Honda/Toyota since they have the best quality and reliability in the business (the Accord is VERY nice). For myself, I'm very satisfied with the Sonata in terms of drive, reliability and value. Of course, refinement wise, Hyundai is still miles away from the Japanese but with all the R&D fundings that they are now pouring in and with CEO's strive to improve Hyundai's quality (I read that in Autoweek's news), I think my next car will be another Hyundai (unless of course, I can afford a BMW.. hehe... mmmm BMW)

Steve

ickery · July 2004

I have the Optima with the V6 (same as the Sonata) and I started to have A sudden jerk or bucking at highway speeds. It turned out to be a bad Throttle position sensor. I was told that this is a common problem for the delta V6.

ray h · July 2004

I'm curious, ickery - how many miles on your Optima, and what model year? The reason I ask is that these TPSs have an ongoing problem that Hyundai apparently hasn't designed out yet. I'm wondering when I can expect trouble on my '03 Sonata V6 with ~12,000 miles on the clock. Can I presume this was a warranty item on your Optima? TIA.

ickery · July 2004

I have an 03 and it has 12000 on the clock but the problem started at 4000 miles. so yes it was covered by the warranty..

justl00kin · July 2004

Steve,

I've had my Sonata in to the dealer 4 times for CEL indication caused by 02 sensor problems. In my case, it was always the same sensor, same side and position. The dealer replaced it several times and worked on my car while on line with "the factory". All I was told was that Hyundai corporate promised a new software revision some unspecified time in the future.

The last straw came when my car wouldn't pass emissions testing because of this problem and the dealer told me I was on my own (and now had to drive the car illegally without an emissions sticker). So, I filed under the lemon law in an attempt to force Hyundai to rectify the situation. My case was arbitrated through the better business bureau and they ruled in my favor. So now I'm getting out of the car. Actually, I wish Hyundai had just fixed the problem. This is bitter sweet for me - I liked my Sonata a lot. I certainly didn't like the post sales warranty and service support.

I do know that dealerships are seeing the same problem on other Sonatas and Santa Fes. I'm not aware of any US recall, though.

Tom

tjdd01 · July 2004

I am a new Sonata owner, only purchased it two weeks ago. I've read posts here about a CEL problem. Sorry if I sound "green", but what is this CEL problem? After having a Neon for 8 years, I must say I am very happy with the Sonata, I have been reading posts about various problems but this CEL aroused my curiosity. After the Neon, this car is just like a limo to me...lol
Thanks for your help.
TJDD

tjdd01 · July 2004

Ok thank you, problem solved, CEL = check engine light.
Go figure!

ai3xskc · August 2004

Tom,

wow seems like you went through a whole lot with those O2 sensors... good thing you won the verdict!

for myself, the CEL was on and off for couple months and then eventually, it came on continuously for couple weeks so we decided to take it to our mechanic (not dealer).... at first, he informed me that it would be really expensive because both the front O2 sensors were problematic. Then he told me the good news that due to numerous problems in the US, consumers campaigned to have the dealers replace these sensors. I went into the dealer last week, and they replaced the two front O2 sensors and updated the ECM, which got rid of the CEL problem.

I'm not quite sure how this campaigning works but the dealer said that it's different from a recall. I don't think they actually "recall" the cars into the dealer to have the parts replaced but instead perform the necessary repairs, free of charge, if there's a problem with the part.

Anyway, the problem is solved now so hopefully, it'll be problem free for the next few years.

Steve

riez · August 2004

One of the single most common causes of CEL coming on--in Hyundais and all other marques--is improper refueling. When refueling:

1. Turn the car off. Take the key out of the ignition.
2. Properly remove the fuel filler cap.
3. Properly fill up (e.g., don't overfill or cause an overflow).
4. Properly re-install the fuel filler cap.

#1 alone can be an issue in some cars.

OBD II has lots of these type issues. Most of it is tied to emissions-related issues and air pollution concerns.

238000 · August 2004

I OWN A 2003 SONATA AND HAD THE FRONT ROTOR PROBLEM WHICH WAS FIXED UNDER WARRANTY - THIS WAAS ABOUT AT 11,000 MILES

238000 · August 2004

I AM VERY PLEASED WITH THIS CAR - I HAVE DRIVEN FROM CONNECTICUT DOWN TO NEW ORLEANS AND THEN TO FLORIDA AND THE CAR PERFORMED VERY WELL. THE ONLY PROBLEM OTHER THAN A FLAT TIRE WAS THE FRONT ROTORS WHICH WERE SHUDDERING-AND WHICH WERE RE-PLACED UNDER WARRANTY. I LIKE HOW IT DRIVES AND IT IS A WELCOME RESPITE FROM MY CHRYSLER LE-BARON WHICH HAD PROBLEMS AMONG WHICH WERE A WHEEL FALLING OFF, ENGINE SHUTTING OFF AND MORE.

mh5782000 · August 2004

I own a 2000 Sonata GLS-V6 w\70,100 miles on it. The CEL has been on and off for almost a year. Yesterday I started the car and it was idoling really rough were it was almost bouncing me out of the seat. I did not think anything but "What in the h@ll is that?" Put the car in drive and it almost died. Went to accelerate and it was bouncy and accelerated very roughly. Just curious if this is the 02 sensor, injectors or the fuel pump going out. Any comments? Anyone? Please help!

ray h · August 2004

"Comments"? OK, mine is I think your car's engine is WAY overdue for a proper electronic diagnosis, not internet kibbutzing.

riez · August 2004

mh5728000... How long have you owned the car? How many miles have you put on it?

What has your maintenance been like? Did you do the full 60K/4 yr service? If you are the 2nd or 3rd owner, have you checked all the service history to make sure all the work has been done?

Have you had all the recall and TSB work done on the car? Thinking there has been one, if not two, MAF sensor recalls.

Have you changed fuel source lately? Were you driving at a significantly different altitude? Was there a big temperature change?

My 2000 GLS V6 5-speed manual has always run like a top. But she only has 56K miles. (I just did the 60K/4 yr service. Set me back $1,000.)

pzev · August 2004

The 60k service was $1,000? Was the timing belt involved in that service? Edmunds has the 60k service for your car estimated around $720. Was just curious how it got so high.

The timing belt and labor for it runs a bit over $250. I can't wait for Hyundai to switch over to timing chains, that's a decent bit of money saved.

ray h · August 2004

pzev, has a switch to timing chains actually been announced by Hyundai for their engines, or is that notion just one more rumor being passed around as fact on the internet?

riez · August 2004

pzev... Yes, I did the have timing belt changed. Along with all the fluids, including transmission. As well as things like spark plugs. Preventive maintenance is well worth the price. I plan on keeping her for at least 10 years. [She is under full b-to-b warranty for 6yr/72K due to the horsepower settlement.]

dalyngill · August 2004

We just bought a 2003 Hyundai 4 cly with automatic... has anyone had or heard about the vehicle rolling backwards on a grade when the transmission is in drive, Could the idle be set to low, its liking driving a standard transmission give it a little gas and it will hold on the grade...

ray h · August 2004

Aren't you supposed to keep your foot on the brake while idling in "Drive"?

dalyngill · August 2004

Ray:
Thanks, we'll try that... how do I get one of the American flags... kinda neat.... Gotta keep up with the canadians...

ray h · August 2004

I believe you need to access your profile and incicate your nationality. Once you save it, the flag should thereafter pop up next to your name with your posts. If your tachometer shows an idle speed of a bit over 700 rpm in "neutral", there's probably nothing wrong. If it's significantly lower than that, might wanna take the car into the dealer's service department for a look-see. The ONLY car I've ever had experience with that claimed a "hill-holder" feature were post-war Studebakers with automatic trannies - and at that I believe the service brakes were applied somehow by the trannie at a stop, then released as soon as the driver pressed the accelerator. My dad had a 1950 Studie "Champion" when I was a pre-schooler - he loved showing that feature off to people on steep inclines. He'd open the door and get out of the car on some pretext without setting the emergency brake or shifting into "park". Scared the livin' crap outa them.

dalyngill · August 2004

Thanks, I think I've got the flag... If you can remember the Studbaker, you must remember the Packard, whata tank... Every car had points and plugs you could change yourself, so much for the back yard mechanic...

Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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