Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

sunkleep · September 2010

I have a 2003 Sonota that had a similar starting problem... turns out it was the alarm system disabling the ignition. The cheapest solution was to have a remote starter installed and that cured the problem. Now, of course, my electric door locks will lock by themselves so I can't leave my keys in the car anymore.

targettuning · September 2010

Function
The crankshaft sensor monitors the relationship between valves and pistons in the engine to maintain the variable valve timing. It is also measures the engine's speed by calculating revolutions per minute. The crankshaft sensor is in effect a catcher in a baseball game, calling the game so the pitcher (the engine) can fire the appropriate function, or pitch,

Symptoms of Problems
When a crankshaft sensor has failed or is failing, certain timing problems will arise in engine function. The engine may start normally in some cases, but will cut off after a few minutes (or seconds) of operation. More than likely the engine will be unable to start at all. Since the crankshaft sensor is responsible for engine timing, the driver may experience engine backfire or irregular rpm function, if the vehicle starts at all.

Read more: Bad Crank Sensor Symptoms | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/about_5860665_bad-crank-sensor-symptoms.html#ixzz0ywHTDgEL

pegasus17 · September 2010

The official NHTSA page and release:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/results.cfm?rcl_id=10V426000&searchtype=qui- - cksearch&summary=true&refurl=rss

I find it curious that they say it happened on the assembly line during a particular month, yet they are recalling all US-made Sonata made from Dec 2009 to Sept 2010.

msmb · October 2010

I have a 2007 Sonata with 31800 miles on it. I do my own oil changes very regularly and get tires rotated at Sears. I have called several dealers about 30,000 mile service. A couple of dealers said I should do a whole series of work, worth around $400+. Another told me that where we live the driving conditions are such that it can't be considered severe driving. If I am doing my oil changes he said that i really don't have to do anything.

Is there anything that other people consider really important right now? I actually have driven the car since January 2008 (it was new then), which should tell you how little i drive it. I also don't tend to drive during rush hour. What do you all think? Just to be safe in terms of my warranty, should anything be done?

nj2pa2nc · October 2010

We owned a 03 elantra GT and a 05 elantra GT and basically only had the oil/filter changed and the tires rotated/balanced regularly. You might want to change the other filter-cabin, etc. about now. We traded the elantra with 100,000+miles for a '11 sonata in July. We never had any problems getting warranty work done.

LASHAWN · October 2010

There's nothing that should really be done. Just keep up with the oil/filter changes, tire rotations and air filters. Your fluids don't have to be done until 60k miles, transmission and coolant. Tune-up due at 100k if you have the v6.

coldgl · October 2010

My 2009 Sonata owner's manual says to replace the fuel tank filter at 30,000 miles. I'm having my ASE certified mechanic install it today. I log all services onto the Hyundai owner's maintenance web page provided for that.

LASHAWN · October 2010

I have an 06 Sonata LX and a buddy of mine who is a Hyundai Certified Tech told me that I didn't need to replace my fuel filter until 60k miles even though the manual says to replace at 30k miles. I asked him why they say to replace at 30k miles instead of 60k miles, he said that filter does not wear down that fast to warrant replacement every 30k miles if you have the V6 engine. Something he learned at training school when the new design came out.

pegasus17 · November 2010

Beware Valvoline VO-39 oil filters as replacement on the new Sonata. Extreme care needed to get it seated properly despite it being the correct fitment. Supertech filter sealed on the first try. Next time i'm going back to Hyundai/Kia OEM filter, 26300-35503. Any others have issues with non-OEM oil filters?

klb1 · November 2010

OCT 30TH Less than one week had the car and first Sunday went to leave for the airport and pushed the button and nothing, car wouldn't start. :confuse: Checked the charge, attempt a jump anyway and nothing, tried the key back up insert in console and nothing. Took a taxi to airport.

Upon returning four days later just for grins tried it and magically it started. Stupid me I did not take my rental car to work the next morning I took the new car. Well late as it always is I went to depart work and bingo no start! :mad:

Called Hyundai 800 number (is this a new car?) and had car towed. Dealer Service Manager called and was great said it was most likely the brake interlock start switch and would have it ready next day. :sick:

I had to depart on another trip said no problem, no hurry see you after the weekend on Monday when I get back. Monday I picked the vehicle up and Dealer Service Manager said thank goodness I didn't pick up the car that next day because it wasn't the brake switch. They had to trouble shoot the system and it took the day. They checked battery, OK at 14.4 Vs, brake switch light switch, OK, and checked ground wires and found them OK. The issue for the no start problem was they found the 40AMP fuse for the ECM lose causing the failure. They removed the 40AMP fuse assembly for the ECM & adjusted the male pins on fuse and the car started right up. All systems checked fine and problem solved.

I have only drove the car twice since the problem was solved. It was to the airport and back. The other night returning from my trip I walked to the car looking good it did but was wary it would not start. It started! So far so good but only three weeks into the new ride.

Love the car but until I get a few more starts.... completed ...... I push that button with my eyes closed and fingers crossed. A month plus into it and so far so good.. :shades:

togrove · November 2010

Hello,
I have a 2006 Sonata V6 with 40,500 miles. Since a month ago, it gives a rattling noise from beneath the right-side doors. The noise does not start until the car running at normal speed (30-60 mph) for at least 15 minutes. It is a constant mild metallic noise that sounds like some nuts got loosened up and vibrating. The weird part is that it does not happen every time I drive. It only happens once or twice a week. I cannot reproduce the noise or predict when it comes out.
Can anyone point me in the right direction what it might be?
I don't think the noise is from the front wheel or rear wheel. The noise sounds like it's sometimes from right beneath the right-side front door, sometimes right beneath the right-side rear door. :confuse:
Thanks in advance.

backy · November 2010

Did you inspect the rocker panel cover? I've seen more than one 2006+ Sonata where it's come loose in the rear. If so, you could be hearing it rattle. If it's not obvious it's loose, try pulling on it a bit to see if there's any play.

Might also inspect the underside of the car to see if a part is loose, e.g. part of the exhaust system.

togrove · December 2010

Backy, thank you. The rocker panel covers seemed to be fine. However, I shook and knocked on them a few times any way. They seem to be fine for a couple weeks so far.

LASHAWN · December 2010

Does anyone here ever check their owners manual? Upon reading some of these posts I find myself asking this question. Working in service, I've had a few customers tell me they don't read their owners manual and that is what I'm there for. I was shocked and amazed, stated to customer that if they read their owners manual than they would answer alot of their questions. What do you guys think?

nj2pa2nc · December 2010

I am always checking out the owner's manual when I have a question. Majority of the time I can get the answer without asking the dealer.

ming2 · December 2010

Just bought a 2011 GLS Sonata would like to wait till first 3,000 miles and then switch to synthetic oil. Any thoughts on the use of synthetic oil and are special oil filters needed if so are they available from Hyundai?

nj2pa2nc · December 2010

In the numerous vehicles we have owned or now own (including our '11 sonata) we just get regular oil changes. Almost all our cars have gone way over 100,000 miles with no big problems. Our 06 tsx, bought new 11/06, has almost 118,000 problem free miles.

fushigi · December 2010

I'll add that unless your owners manual provides for a longer change interval when using synthetic (I really, really doubt it does) then you'll probably still want to do oil changes at the interval it specifies to maintain your engine warranty. Doing that, synthetic will cost a lot more than regular oil.

Personally I run regular oil until the engine warranty expires then go with synthetic and 50% longer change intervals.

craigbrooks · December 2010

If you really want to use a synthetic Motorcraft makes a blend that is equal to or less than regular top tier dino oils in price. That's what I use.

cander22 · January 2011

So whenever I start up my 06 Sonota there is a rattle that sounds like its coming from the engine. It lasts for about 1-3 seconds then goes away. It has roughly 95,000 miles on it if that matters. It only happens after the car hasnt been started for a little bit. If I shut it off and turn it back on with in a few minutes of shutting it off it usually never occurs. Was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what this could be and if its something that sounds like I need to bring in ASAP to get fixed. I am a full time college student paying my own way so I dont have alot of cash laying around to fix something that maybe just occurs after so many miles or whatever the case may be. But if need be I will put it on the ol'credit card. Your thoughts?

I should note that this has been occuring ever since about 92,000 miles. So I have driven just fine up to this point.. but thought a little help from the pro's might be good since I dont know much about cars!

tomk17 · January 2011

Ouch - you are not going to like this UNLESS you are the original owner and still under the 100K mile warranty. If you are within that warranty, get to dealer fast and make sure you have good fresh oil in the car - they will check. It's a common problem with this year and engine. It IS covered under the 100K engine warranty. I had the same thing at 72,000 miles. It's the timing chain tensioner, no doubt about it. I contacted Hyundai Corp looking for some cost "help" on the repair. I was out of warranty as I was the second owner (had only the 60,000 warranty). I paid $1300 to have it fixed at dealer and they would not pay any of it saying 12K out of warranty. Was hoping they would cover 1/2 but no.

cander22 · January 2011

Errrr.. Was hoping to hear better! I believe im under warranty till 100k going to check as soon as I get off work. Spoke with a mechanic that works at the dealership here in town and he said it also sounds like it might be because of the oil filter? Something like if its not a hyundai brand it could be causing a air pressure leak or build up? Not sure if I believe him as he didnt sound to sure of hiimself. But definately going to making a appt. to get in as soon as possible then! I know I have some kind of warranty still not sure for how much longer but I know I still have one. I am the second owner of the car and bought some kind of warranty when I got it.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2011

About $100 for tensioner parts + 4.2 hours labor plus whatever else goes with that---perhaps a water pump, new oil, belts or hoses, etc. It's one of the "while we're in there" type of repairs that can escalate.

The only other rattle I can think of like this would be noisy valves, which are adjustable, but they usually "tick" rhythmically and the noise doesn't disappear in a few seconds.

cander22 · January 2011

Right.. Well Ill check the warranty, hopefully still covered! Ill let you know what I find out. Thanks for the tips and help. Appreciated!

Mr_Shiftright · January 2011

You should tank TOMK17, he's the one who nailed it.

tomk17 · January 2011

They will bust you a little if you don't have a Hyundai filter as some after market ones allowed oil to drain back a little causing some noise until the oil starts fully flowing. Don't take no for an answer, this is too costly to deal with if not under the new car warranty. If they bust you on the filter say fine, have them change the oil and see how it goes for the next few weeks but it won't go away if it's the timing chain tensioner. Google "Sonata 3.3L engine timing chain tensioner" to see hits.

Hey, I love that car and I have 87K now. I paid the $1300 to have this fixed out of my pocket (got same price from 2 dealers) and expect to have it for another 100K.

The have to pull the engine out of the car, it's a big job but they did it right I admit. I thought for sure they would forget a vac hose or something but smooth as silk. With your mileage, I would have them replace the spark plugs while the engine is out. Might be some cost savings for you.

tomk17 · January 2011

As I approach 100K this year I'll need some new spark plugs in my 2006 3.3L V6. Love to tackle it myself, I've seen the good You Tube videos on how-to. A lot of stuff to remove. I think I can do it in a full day with a lot of swearing but 2 questions first:

1. What does the dealer charge for installing new spark plugs? I'm sure someone has had it done.
2. Has anyone had a non-Hyundai dealer do it? It's border line one of those things that I almost feel better about the dealer doing it as they've done 20 of them to every 1 an indy has done.

pekelopd · January 2011

I've heard about this before, but don't remember if it affects only the v6 or both the v6 and i4? I have an '06 i4 GLS with 39K, love the car, no problems yets. (knock on wood)

tomk17 · January 2011

It's a 3.3L V6 issue only...

chrisn520 · January 2011

2006 Hyuandi Sonata GLS V6 3.3 Liter  92+k miles.

While driving the car yesterday, it just shut off. I saw & smelled some smoke come through the heating vents. Upon opening the hood, dead center directly in front of the bumper, there is a 3-4 in wide by 5-6 in deep round cylinder type part that looks like it connects to the exhaust was smoking. The car starts but has some type of rattling sound now. Just had the oil changed 10 days ago at Hyuandi dealership along with full service check, found no problems. Any ideas about what it could be and how much it may cost me to repair it?

LASHAWN · January 2011

I'm not sure what that part could be, but I'd recommend you take to dealer to have checked. It may even be something covered by the powertrain warranty if you're the original owner.

LASHAWN · February 2011

My seatbelt chime sounds off every 30 seconds for about 6 seconds while the car is in motion. If I'm sitting at a stop sign/ red light it will not chime, but as soon as I start moving it will start to chime. Any suggestions.

jlindh · February 2011

Check the electric connectors under whichever seats are occupied when this is happening. It sounds like the car doesn't think a belt is fastened.

LASHAWN · February 2011

Will do, thanks will post if this helps.

73split · March 2011

73split · March 2011

i have a 99 sonata with 2 issues 1. it starts and idles great but when you take off no power, replaced the mas sensor seemed to fix that but it did hesitate once today. 2 when you put gas in it. it has a hard time starting wait for a few mins it will start and go and has no problem starting after that until you put gas in again. i have no codes and i dont know if the probems are one in the same or are 2 different problems. thanks

geoblue · March 2011

Hello,

We have a 2006 Kia Optima at around 68K miles. I am thinking of at least having a drain&refill for the transmission fluid.

Kia, like Hyundai specifies SPIII ATF. Is that a must? Redline claims its D4 ATF can be used where SPIII is required.

Has anyone had experiences with Redline D4 or any other ATF on the one hand and with SPIII on the other?

Should I just have a drain&refill done or should I get a flush?

LASHAWN · March 2011

Do just the drain and fill. I have a 2006 Sonata LX and I had my transmission fluid serviced by the dealer. If your the original owner it would be best you have dealer service your transmission due to vehicle still under powertrain warranty. My dealer charges $149.95 for the drain and fill service which should be all you need if your car has the V6 engine.

autokritiker · March 2011

Use any multivehicle fluid that is compatible with SPIII. Castrol Import and Valvoline Maxlife are popular and work well in Hyundais and Kias. By the way, it is very easy to change the ATF yourself. You just remove the large drain bolt at the bottom of the trasmission pan (1" socket), let it drain for about 15 minutes, clean off the magnet at the end of the drain bolt, replace the crush washer on the bolt and re-install the bolt, and then refill with new ATF - about 5 to 5.25 qts assuming you have the 5 speed AT (2006.5 and newer Optimas were all 5 speed, 2006 and older were all 4 speed). Start engine, let the new fluid circulate for a minute, move the shift lever from P-R-N-D-N-R-P holding for a couple seconds in each position, and then wipe the transmission dipstick with a rag and check the fluid level. Fluid level should be checked with transmission in Neutral (make sure the parking brake is applied). Should be at the "cold" mark or slightly above. Add fluid if necessary.

This only takes about 25 to 30 minutes to complete. If you're more comfortable paying a mechanic to do this, they should not charge you more than $100. It's only about $30 for the fluid, plus 1/2 hr labor. There is no filter to change, only the transmission fluid.

LASHAWN · March 2011

True. But I felt more comfortable letting the dealer do it. I only paid about $95.00 for the service and not $149.00.

geoblue · March 2011

Thank you for the reply, autokritiker.

Our Kia Optima is 2006 (earlier model, probably similar to 2004-2005 Sonata) with 4 sp auto transmission.

At first I wanted to buy Redline D4 and use it for drain/refill. On their website they say it is also compatible with SPIII. Not on the bottles though.

But Kia/Hyundai say only SPIII should be used. What is it that makes this ATF so special? Can it be because it includes extra additives to protect the transmission or its viscosity is different?

I do not want to take a risk by using D4, however if SPIII is just a repackaged general-use ATF I would rather use a better quality fluid.

What is the size of the drain plug? What tools do I need for the service?

I have another unrelated question about the car. Last few months it started being a little noisier than it was when we first got it. I use only synthetic oil like M1 5W-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 with good quality filters. But I can hear clattering or clacking rather from under the hood when the window is down. Similar to a diesel.I hope I am not exagerating it.

Last fall the dealer had to replace the oxygen sensor because of check engine light. The light has not come on since then.

I have not had the timing belt replaced yet. Other accessory belt was a little squeaky during winter if that is relevant.

autokritiker · March 2011

In my Sonata I used SPIII until last year at the 60K mile mark. I did a drain and fill at 20K miles and at 40K miles. At 60K miles I switched over to Valvoline Maxlife which lists all the Hyundai specs including the newest SPIV spec. After 14K miles so far with the Maxlife I can say it is definitely an improvement over the SPIII. The transmission shifts smoother now, the slight 4th gear whine I had before is now 99% gone, and the fluid still looks brand new. Also Maxlife is fully synthetic while SPIII is only semi synthetic.

A 1" socket fits the drain bolt on my 2007 Sonata (5 speed AT). A 25mm might even fit a little better, although the 1" works fine without deforming the bolt head. Not sure if the older 4 speed AT has the same size drain bolt but I assume they would be the same size. I think a drain and fill on yours would be about 4 or 4.5 quarts.

About the noise, it can be caused by colder weather or by using a non OEM oil filter. Stick with the OEM filter. They are good quality. Also synthetic oils are usually thinner than conventional oils of the same weight, which can make an engine run noisier. Maybe try a High Mileage oil which are usually a little thicker. That might make it run a little quieter. I really wouldn't worry about the noise unless it becomes loud. Check your oil level every couple weeks to make sure the oil level stays near the full mark.

geoblue · April 2011

By 'replace the crush washer' do you mean buying a new crush washer, autokritiker? Or just putting the same one back on? If you meant getting a new one, what is the size of it and where can I get it from?

Thanks.

autokritiker · April 2011

You need to remove the old crush washer and install a new one on the drain bolt. If you try to re-use the old one, it might not seal properly. I can't remember the specs. Just go to the parts counter at your local Hyundai dealer and tell them you need a crush washer for the transmission drain bolt. They should have plenty in stock. That's where I got mine. I think they were 50 or 60 cents each.

wpbjoe · May 2011

now either you have a really honest Jiffy Lube in Wisconsin, or you have a really high priced oil change at the dealer, either that or I'll bet you have never been to Jiffy Lube....

tram54 · June 2011

I have a 2006 Sonata with 62,000 miles on it. Recently I had been hearing a noticible light 'thumping' noise when making a slight left turn only. The noise would stop if you applied the brake. A friend suggested I might have a loose brake caliber (I did take it to the dealer for new brakes about 6 months ago). Well, today the dealer tells me that the front bushings were wearing (hence the noise). Would be > $600 with labor to replace both sides. I winced at the price, so as an alternative he offered to 'lube them' to see if the noise would go away and I could get away with waiting a while. I asked if there was any safety concern, but he said no. So I opted for the greasing (spent < 100), the noise is indeed gone. As I was leaving, the service rep's comment was 'who knows - this may solve your problem for good because you do not drive a lot'. Was my leg getting pulled today?

yul711 · June 2011

Similar story with my 2006 Sonata: a local mechanic suggested all front bushings or lower control arms replacement on both sides due to the thumping noise. At other mechanic's advice, I have lubricated the bushings myself with WD-40 after placing the car over a sidewalk curb. So far, two months later no thumping.

vjy · July 2011

I have 2007 sonata GLS with 48000 miles on it. I took it for oil change and the dealer said that my rear brakes are bad and they are (1-2)/32. He quoted 260.00 for that and told me to do brake flush for another 130.00.

Do the prices look good? Also I need to do the 45,000 mile service and it would cost around 400.00. Is the price fine?

Thanks.

backy · July 2011

45k service seems high, especially since the oil service is already done... there isn't that much to do at the 15k intervals. Make sure the dealer isn't adding unnecessary services--check the maintenance schedule that came with the car. You could save some money by doing the easy stuff yourself, e.g. air filter and cabin filter replacements. These can be purchased at auto parts stores and replaced in a few minutes--directions are in the owner's manual.

tmorrow411 · July 2011

I just had my brakes done at 81k miles on my 2007 Sonata. They were the originals.

They had a special at $200 per axle, and they just sent me a coupon for $169 per axle (after I had already done it :sick: ). So to me $260 sounds high. $130 for flush sounds about right, but I wouldn't do it until you need to change the front pads too. Or you are feeling a lot of give in your brake pedal.

P.S. I'm surprised your fronts aren't worn out as well.

Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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