Ugh. Tough call on that one. If it were mine, I would say "yes," but I would also do the work myself and thus it would not cost much other than some time, undoubtedly a few mashed fingers, and maybe some expletives thrown in there for good measure. Just FYI, when I went to purchase some gaskets for my '96, I could not get them individually. I had to buy a complete gasket/seal kit for the engine and it ran almost $400 USD (March of 2002). However, that kit has EVERYTHING in it, so if you're going to dig all the way down to a head gasket, you might as well just overhaul the whole engine while you're at it.
If it was necessary to have someone else do the work, I would say "no" unless you really love the car. Just replacing the camshaft seals (and associated work), I was receiving quotes of ~ $1800 USD, so you could probably add another $500 - $1000 to do the head gasket.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I put the 100A NAPA alternator in the car February of '04. It works great so far and the part has a "lifetime" warranty, though I am not sure if they have the same idea about the car's lifetime as I do.... I installed a set of Lightforce 140s on the front rack crossmember in September and it powers them with no problem, even at idle. Now that I've experienced them, I will never buy another car without adding at least one set. They help tremendously during the long dark winters, not to mention on trips down south traveling the Cassiar and ALCAN highways.
Considering the dealer is doing all that work, it is a LOT cheaper that what I would be charged here. Probably close to 1/2. Hopefully it will help you with a few more years of moderately-worry free performance. I don't know how long CV boots last in Florida, but I'd be keeping an eye on them. I'm still on my original rears, but the fronts went out at 122K (left, 7 years old) and 140K (right, nearly 8 years old). The bearings themselves would probably last longer except the boots split and all the lube quickly leaks out. :x
I agree that as long as the dealer is in there, you might as well have the timing belt replaced; depending, of course, on how many miles you have on the car. If you have only 50K on a '97, then maybe it wouldn't be worth it, but the belts age with time as well as mileage and most of the time spent changing out the camshaft seals is the same time spent accessing the timing belt. The only add'l thing you have to do to get ot the seals is pull off the timing sprockets and remove the valve covers. I also replaced the crankshaft seal and oil pan gasket since I was in there and the gasket kit I had purchased included replacements for everything...
I would estimate it was about 24 man-hours of work for my wife and I, with the occassional assistance of a friend who helped me pull the engine from the car and return it. But, we also did a lot of cleaning, replaced one of front axles, etc, so professionals should be able to do the work much faster AND not need to remove the engine.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I almost fell off my chair when he told me the price.
So lets see. I did call around to some other dealers. And their pricing is about right. I might be getting a little bit of a, "deal", but who's to say they will actually do all the flushes they are talking about?
Otherwise, your experience up there sounds like the typical Alaskan independant spirit! Nothing like having your wife pull an engine out of the car with you! Bravo!
Lets hope that NAPA alternator lasts a few more winter runs to Humpy's in ANC!
I had the clutch replaced two weeks ago on my 02 OB after 115,000 miles. For the first time, I went to a local repair shop rather that to the dealer. The shop claims to have done a complete job including cutting the flywheel. I now have a clutch that seems to work well but emits a burning odor. The local shop is going to take it back tomorrow for a look. Is clutch replacement on Subarus strictly a job for a Subaru dealer or did I just get a poor install from the local shop? I think that the fact that I got 115,000 on the first clutch indicates that I don't abuse it. Thanks in advance. BobC
Sometimes when I accelerate from a stop with my 05 Outback, I hear a funny noise coming from the driver's side. Sounds like a woodpecker in the distance. No....... not the theme music... but the faint sound of a woodpecker pecking on a tree. Anyway... anyone else get this?
It appears that I have exactly the same problem with my new Ourback!!! ie break pad noise when slowing to a stop. I can also hear it when in reverse. What was the resolution to your situation, if any? I will have to take the car back to the dealer and see what they say?
What is the frequency of the noise? Does it occur only once (something like one peck or ongoing noise)? Also, does it occur only when at the beginning of the driving after the vehicle has been parked for sometime?
If you answered "only once" above and "yes" to the second question I experience the same thing. A faint sound "thuck" which occurs only once. Though I have not noticed whether it occurs on acceleration and where it comes from.
I was thinking that this could be the sound of tailgate locking automatically. If anyone knows please enlighten us.
Picked up the car from the dealer. For better or for worse ($1200.00), the car runs like brand new. They really did a great job. Whether it was necessary to put so much into it, who's to know. Time only, will tell.
The boss said the driver's side mirror doesn't seem to be "clearing" properly. Here are the basics: 2K OB wagon, checked fuse (OK), checked passenger side mirror function (OK), ops checked the driver's side mirror this AM - something's going on in there (it steams in the housing) but it does seem slow in clearing.
Questions: I'd appreciate technique recommended to pop off mirror (glass) to take a look in there and see it there's a dislodged(?) heating element (fallen off the back side of the mirror?). If anyone has dealt with this problem, please send along any tips for the first-timer. Interestingly, the pilot light on the mirror button (on the armrest) has also failed - coincidence or a common problem here?
About the "pilot light" going out.... I'd say that is common. The light for my mirror heater, fog lights, heating/cooling fan, and all the lights that illuminate the defrost/dash/floor heating options and temperature control have gone out over the last few years.
Ironically, every single one of the lights on my '69 Chevy's dash still work..... after 35 years.... *shrugs*
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
If you hear it once and it happens when starting and stopping AND you have an automatic, it's the shift interlock mechanism.
Apparently, they changed the design of the shift interlock in the 05s. I noticed it on my Legacy GT 5EAT and had the dealer look at it. There's a plastic tab that pops in and out to block the shift lever when coming close to a stop. When you fully depress the brakes, the tab moves out of the way.
I've already mentioned this to Subaru as a potential improvement but more voices certainly wouldn't hurt.
Thanks Kens. You are right that it is an Automatic. I am not sure it comes when I stop the car. I get it only when I drive it after entering it.
I have almost no knowledge of cars and so I do not understand what a shift interloking mechanism is? Is this a defect or just a sound? Will it damage anything if not taken care of?
If it is something that will damage my car if not taken care of, I will certainly inform Subaru.
Not what I wanted to hear, but good to know, otherwise I might have tried to "pop" it off (intact, of course). Interestingly, on my Maxima, the glass can be safely removed.
Any other suggestions about the mirror heater? Or am I down to buy an entire assembly to fix the thing?
I suspect that heater has become unglued from part of the glass. Its usuallly in direct contact with the back of the glass. If it is still doing part of the job, its probably eaiser just to live with it.
I've sometimes wondered if my Forester's heated side-views are doing their job. I live in a coastal area and need to turn them on to dissipate the condensation from the fog. Sometimes it seems to be slow. I checked to make sure they were working by actually feeling the temperature of the glass with my hand before and then after turning the defrost on. Sure enough, I could feel the glass warming up. On those occassions when it doesn't seem to clear very well, I have decided it's probably more dirt than fog. You might try just feeling the glass on a regular basis to see if it is in fact heating. Since afterall, they are not miracle working mirrors, simply heated ones - if they do warm up then they are doing their job. *shrug* Elissa
This is exactly what happened to us this weekend on our 95 Legacy. I had my son in the car with me and it was very scary as you know. Did Subaru pay for any of your repairs? How did things work out for you? Did you find that others had the same thing happen?
Thanks for any guidance that you can give us on this.
Two years ago I helped Lyn (Postmodern) rebuild her mirror after it was shattered in an accident. The glass (and backing heating element) are held onto the motor pivot mount by a rather un-repair-friendly plastic retainer. Even on a relatively new car on a very warm summer day (so pretty supple plastic), I was sure that we were going to shatter glass trying to get it reseated. I am just not sure that one could get it apart without damage, unfortunately.
But if you are feeling brave, this is how I would approach it: The glass has a thin black surround of plastic that frames the glass and in turn attaches to the motor mount. Begin by heating with a hair dryer, and try to work a butter knife between the frame and 'peel' it back to pop out the glass. In the process, you will probably jump teeth on the motor drive, but it can take some abuse without damage. Just recenter it with firm pressure when you are done. Best of luck...
Yes... It sounds like a plastic tab popping in and out of something when I drive off in my automatic. It only happens sometimes and maybe when the car is cold? Not sure if it ever happened when stopping.
About the brake noise... I guess it's just the type of brake pad they use is just noisy and since the car is so quiet...you hear noises you might not of heard on another vehicle?
help! i JUST bought an 02 outback ltd and i also have the wind noise on the driver's side! what is that? i know zip about cars. the car is also emitting a nasty antifreeze smell after i drive it. there was something else, but i don't remember what right at the moment. What is the wind noise from? marce
The wind noise could be as simple as roof rack bars on backwards, the rearview mirror gusset not fitting well, the mirror itself can make noise if there is a sticker or something else in the folding seam, or simply the rubber seals themselves need to be lubed. All relatively simple, and easy to fix.
The antifreeze smell, however, is of more concern to me. It could be a simple hose leak, or symptomatic of a headgasket problem. Check on the back (firewall) of the engine head/block on the drivers side. Seepage can drip down onto the support crossmember, where you might see green/black staining. If so, contact your dealer for extended warranty repairs.
Just curious....here in the US, "OFF Road" usually means the golf club or Safeway parking lot. Just wanted to know if you Auzzies really drive seriously "Off Road" with the Outback....you know, like those Paul Hogan commercials. If so, how do they hold up? Here in Washington state, every other car you see is an Outback, I guess because of the snow and weather issues...although here in the Tri-Cities, we usually have fairly mild winters. Thanks, Garrett Waddell
Same problem as mrk610. I just installed the subaru security system upgrade . It wasn't to bad to install. My question is all the alarm features work except 1 . When I alarm and disalarm the car the parking lights don't flash . In the directions I got it says that they flash once when alarming and flash twice when disalarming . Is there a secret to programming the the system or am I screwed . Thank You, Bill
Have you found out anything on our problem with the security system. The 1 thing I have noticied that the part # on the box was not the same as the 02 model . I ordered mine from Liberty subaru. They said it was the only one for our model .I was wondering if anybody with a 03 or 04 obw with the security system has there lites flash when arming and disarming .
If I could get a reply from some of the more technically oriented people I would really appreciate it...
Long story short I just purchased a used 2003 Legacy L wagon SE that only came with one remote. Being the cheap skate I am I bought a remote off of ebay and I am attempting to program it into the cars receiver by myself... Following the instructions in the owners manual (doors shut and unlocked cycle key from off to on not cranking about ten times I can never ever get the horn to honk once and get me into programming mode).... Any suggestions???
I'm having a little trouble with my automatic transmission in my '99 outback, and would appreciate any suggestions. When I put it in "drive", I have to tap the gas slightly to get it into gear. It only happens in "drive", "reverse" works just fine. I thought it might be low transmission fluid, so I checked the level and it was low, but the problem persisted after adding fluid. Any ideas or do i need to find a mechanic?
Upon delivery, I circled back to the dealer and pointed out the piston slap w/11 miles on the odometer. He said 'that's normal when they're cold.' Took it back a month later for other service issues, again mentioned piston noise now lasting longer. I was given the one page explanation of exotic metals/clearances etc. from SOA. Took it back yet later and demonstrated that it does not go away even after a hot soak now. No questions asked, they ordered the 2 driver's side pistons. Took it back when parts arrived, pistons replaced same day; kept it next day through cold/hot cycles. Even showed me my old pistons and a sample of new that was ordered for another. BTW the new ones have teflon pads integrated/applied to what's left of the skirt area. I didn't even have to raise my voice, they did what I asked. Now no noticeable noises. I'm satisfied, but curious-why only the driver's side? Closer to the driver? Underhood it is quiet now vs. before.
How long has it been since the tranny fluid has been completely drained and flushed (if ever)? If you were low on transmission fluid my question would be where did the fluid go???
I just swapped a 95 Escort 4dr for a 03 Legacy wagon and with about 107,000 on the Escorts tranny it was doing basically the same as your scenario. After draining and flushing out the tranny and refilling, things began to work normally after a week or so. Long story short if your tranny fluid is old, burnt, and basically worn out just adding 1qt to a 10qt system won't "renew" the fluid enough it just bring the level up so that the tranny's internal pump is foaming the fluid because it is sucking air due to a low fluid condition. The only way to flush the fluid is to either do a fluid change two or three times yourself or take it to a mechanic who has the equipment to professional flush the transmission (read expensive depending on who is doing the work).
If your vehicle has quite a few miles on it your best bet would be a good drain, flush, and refill and after a few miles "hopefully" everything should be working properly.. If not it would be time to have all of the assorted electronic, solenoids, etc checked out by a reputable mechanic...
My wife had a Taurus that started to actually drop out of gear at traffic lights one summer (it wouldn't go back into gear until she tapped the accelerator), and after I changed the fluid and filter it never happened again. The old fluid had leaked out a bit through the pan gasket which I replaced, and it was more brown color than red. My theory was that the oil thinning effect of summer heat combined with an insufficient amount of old fluid prevented the tranny from maintaining enough internal pressure to keep itself in gear.
I don't know why either but my 98 Outback that had the short block replaced due to piston slap had the issue on the driver side also, cylinder #4 if my memory serves me correctly. I know it was the drivers side. My slap is back now after a couple of years so I hope your new pistons work better than my new shortblock.
My wife has an '02 Outback 4 dr wagon with the stock AM/FM Cassette. She wants a CD player. I see a few EBAY auctions for WRX 6 CD changers for $100-$150. If I get one of these, can I just throw this CD Player in myself (assuming I can get the dash off) or do I need additional wiring harnesses etc...
I appreciate any feedback on this. I was just going to get her a single CD player from BestBuy or Circuit City, but I know aftermarket stuff requires additional wiring and possibly brackets and stuff. And who knows what teeanager they have doing their installs anyway?
I'm looking for a solution that is easy and cheap. Thanks.
My 2001 Outback is experiencing a pretty bad vibration on the steering wheel at speeds over 60 mph. It has 45,000 miles on it and still has the original tires. The front brake pads had to be replaced at 40,000 miles. My other car, a 1998 Ford Contour, doesn't have this problem on the same roads. Any ideas as to what the problem is?
I am having a problem with my windows fogging up on the inside of the car. I drive with my defrost on 100% of the time with recycled air. I just had the car in to the shop to have them look at the heater core and it tested out fine. The thing that gets me is that the windows will fog up all of a sudden, for example I'll have driven for half an hour on a flat road and then wham-o total fog out, and there is a moist smell to the air from the ventilation system. Any suggestions?
You should only use recirc for short periods of time, when you need maximum heating or cooling power, or if driving through an area with lots of dust or stink in the air.
Switch to fresh air and your problem will almost certainly go away.
Since it is isolated to the steering wheel, definetely sounds like a tire issue... Either out of balance or tread seperation...
A good method of trouble shooting is to rotate the tires from the front to the back.. If it is the tires, the problem should go from the steering wheel vibration to the seat of the pants vibration...
Comments
If it was necessary to have someone else do the work, I would say "no" unless you really love the car. Just replacing the camshaft seals (and associated work), I was receiving quotes of ~ $1800 USD, so you could probably add another $500 - $1000 to do the head gasket.
I put the 100A NAPA alternator in the car February of '04. It works great so far and the part has a "lifetime" warranty, though I am not sure if they have the same idea about the car's lifetime as I do.... I installed a set of Lightforce 140s on the front rack crossmember in September and it powers them with no problem, even at idle. Now that I've experienced them, I will never buy another car without adding at least one set. They help tremendously during the long dark winters, not to mention on trips down south traveling the Cassiar and ALCAN highways.
Considering the dealer is doing all that work, it is a LOT cheaper that what I would be charged here. Probably close to 1/2. Hopefully it will help you with a few more years of moderately-worry free performance. I don't know how long CV boots last in Florida, but I'd be keeping an eye on them. I'm still on my original rears, but the fronts went out at 122K (left, 7 years old) and 140K (right, nearly 8 years old). The bearings themselves would probably last longer except the boots split and all the lube quickly leaks out. :x
I agree that as long as the dealer is in there, you might as well have the timing belt replaced; depending, of course, on how many miles you have on the car. If you have only 50K on a '97, then maybe it wouldn't be worth it, but the belts age with time as well as mileage and most of the time spent changing out the camshaft seals is the same time spent accessing the timing belt. The only add'l thing you have to do to get ot the seals is pull off the timing sprockets and remove the valve covers. I also replaced the crankshaft seal and oil pan gasket since I was in there and the gasket kit I had purchased included replacements for everything...
I would estimate it was about 24 man-hours of work for my wife and I, with the occassional assistance of a friend who helped me pull the engine from the car and return it. But, we also did a lot of cleaning, replaced one of front axles, etc, so professionals should be able to do the work much faster AND not need to remove the engine.
I almost fell off my chair when he told me the price.
So lets see. I did call around to some other dealers. And their pricing is about right. I might be getting a little bit of a, "deal", but who's to say they will actually do all the flushes they are talking about?
Otherwise, your experience up there sounds like the typical Alaskan independant spirit! Nothing like having your wife pull an engine out of the car with you! Bravo!
Lets hope that NAPA alternator lasts a few more winter runs to Humpy's in ANC!
I had no idea that it even existed! That's sad. Anyhow, we'll have to drop by there one of these days....
Oh, hahaha... and there's no such thing as "having [my] wife" do anything! She volunteers. I'm volun-told. ;-D
Picking up car tomorrow!
Craig
No....... not the theme music... but the faint sound of a woodpecker pecking on a tree.
Anyway... anyone else get this?
Is the oil level OK? What viscosity are you using?
Bob: Subaru generally would replace the flywheel rather than cutting it. Let the shop have a look-see, but that may be the solution.
-juice
I will have to take the car back to the dealer and see what they say?
If you answered "only once" above and "yes" to the second question I experience the same thing. A faint sound "thuck" which occurs only once. Though I have not noticed whether it occurs on acceleration and where it comes from.
I was thinking that this could be the sound of tailgate locking automatically.
If anyone knows please enlighten us.
But they did a nice job. No doubt.
-juice
The boss said the driver's side mirror doesn't seem to be "clearing" properly. Here are the basics: 2K OB wagon, checked fuse (OK), checked passenger side mirror function (OK), ops checked the driver's side mirror this AM - something's going on in there (it steams in the housing) but it does seem slow in clearing.
Questions: I'd appreciate technique recommended to pop off mirror (glass) to take a look in there and see it there's a dislodged(?) heating element (fallen off the back side of the mirror?). If anyone has dealt with this problem, please send along any tips for the first-timer. Interestingly, the pilot light on the mirror button (on the armrest) has also failed - coincidence or a common problem here?
Thanks in advance!
Ken in Seattle
Ironically, every single one of the lights on my '69 Chevy's dash still work..... after 35 years.... *shrugs*
Apparently, they changed the design of the shift interlock in the 05s. I noticed it on my Legacy GT 5EAT and had the dealer look at it. There's a plastic tab that pops in and out to block the shift lever when coming close to a stop. When you fully depress the brakes, the tab moves out of the way.
I've already mentioned this to Subaru as a potential improvement but more voices certainly wouldn't hurt.
Ken
I have almost no knowledge of cars and so I do not understand what a shift interloking mechanism is? Is this a defect or just a sound? Will it damage anything if not taken care of?
If it is something that will damage my car if not taken care of, I will certainly inform Subaru.
Not what I wanted to hear, but good to know, otherwise I might have tried to "pop" it off (intact, of course). Interestingly, on my Maxima, the glass can be safely removed.
Any other suggestions about the mirror heater? Or am I down to buy an entire assembly to fix the thing?
Regards,
Ken M.
I suspect that heater has become unglued from part of the glass. Its usuallly in direct contact with the back of the glass. If it is still doing part of the job, its probably eaiser just to live with it.
Cheers
Graham
Elissa
I'm jealous, Bob showed me how well they clear off even rain, sweet feature!
-juice
Ken in foggy, drizzly, dark Seattle
This is exactly what happened to us this weekend on our 95 Legacy. I had my son in the car with me and it was very scary as you know. Did Subaru pay for any of your repairs? How did things work out for you? Did you find that others had the same thing happen?
Thanks for any guidance that you can give us on this.
Cynthia
Two years ago I helped Lyn (Postmodern) rebuild her mirror after it was shattered in an accident. The glass (and backing heating element) are held onto the motor pivot mount by a rather un-repair-friendly plastic retainer. Even on a relatively new car on a very warm summer day (so pretty supple plastic), I was sure that we were going to shatter glass trying to get it reseated. I am just not sure that one could get it apart without damage, unfortunately.
But if you are feeling brave, this is how I would approach it: The glass has a thin black surround of plastic that frames the glass and in turn attaches to the motor mount. Begin by heating with a hair dryer, and try to work a butter knife between the frame and 'peel' it back to pop out the glass. In the process, you will probably jump teeth on the motor drive, but it can take some abuse without damage. Just recenter it with firm pressure when you are done. Best of luck...
Steve
bbearden
It sounds like a plastic tab popping in and out of something when I drive off in my automatic. It only happens sometimes and maybe when the car is cold? Not sure if it ever happened when stopping.
About the brake noise... I guess it's just the type of brake pad they use is just noisy and since the car is so quiet...you hear noises you might not of heard on another vehicle?
marce
The antifreeze smell, however, is of more concern to me. It could be a simple hose leak, or symptomatic of a headgasket problem. Check on the back (firewall) of the engine head/block on the drivers side. Seepage can drip down onto the support crossmember, where you might see green/black staining. If so, contact your dealer for extended warranty repairs.
Steve
Just curious....here in the US, "OFF Road" usually means the golf club or Safeway parking lot. Just wanted to know if you Auzzies really drive seriously "Off Road" with the Outback....you know, like those Paul Hogan commercials. If so, how do they hold up? Here in Washington state, every other car you see is an Outback, I guess because of the snow and weather issues...although here in the Tri-Cities, we usually have fairly mild winters.
Thanks,
Garrett Waddell
Thank You, Bill
Mike
Long story short I just purchased a used 2003 Legacy L wagon SE that only came with one remote. Being the cheap skate I am I bought a remote off of ebay and I am attempting to program it into the cars receiver by myself... Following the instructions in the owners manual (doors shut and unlocked cycle key from off to on not cranking about ten times I can never ever get the horn to honk once and get me into programming mode).... Any suggestions???
Thanks,
Billy
I'm having a little trouble with my automatic transmission in my '99 outback, and would appreciate any suggestions. When I put it in "drive", I have to tap the gas slightly to get it into gear. It only happens in "drive", "reverse" works just fine. I thought it might be low transmission fluid, so I checked the level and it was low, but the problem persisted after adding fluid. Any ideas or do i need to find a mechanic?
Thanks,
Ryan
Steve
BTW the new ones have teflon pads integrated/applied to what's left of the skirt area. I didn't even have to raise my voice, they did what I asked. Now no noticeable noises.
I'm satisfied, but curious-why only the driver's side? Closer to the driver? Underhood it is quiet now vs. before.
How long has it been since the tranny fluid has been completely drained and flushed (if ever)? If you were low on transmission fluid my question would be where did the fluid go???
I just swapped a 95 Escort 4dr for a 03 Legacy wagon and with about 107,000 on the Escorts tranny it was doing basically the same as your scenario. After draining and flushing out the tranny and refilling, things began to work normally after a week or so. Long story short if your tranny fluid is old, burnt, and basically worn out just adding 1qt to a 10qt system won't "renew" the fluid enough it just bring the level up so that the tranny's internal pump is foaming the fluid because it is sucking air due to a low fluid condition. The only way to flush the fluid is to either do a fluid change two or three times yourself or take it to a mechanic who has the equipment to professional flush the transmission (read expensive depending on who is doing the work).
If your vehicle has quite a few miles on it your best bet would be a good drain, flush, and refill and after a few miles "hopefully" everything should be working properly.. If not it would be time to have all of the assorted electronic, solenoids, etc checked out by a reputable mechanic...
Good luck,
Billy
Why the driver's side? No idea, honestly. The techs have "ears" that can listen for even faint noises and probably traced it to that side.
It's quiet now? That's great.
-juice
I appreciate any feedback on this. I was just going to get her a single CD player from BestBuy or Circuit City, but I know aftermarket stuff requires additional wiring and possibly brackets and stuff. And who knows what teeanager they have doing their installs anyway?
I'm looking for a solution that is easy and cheap.
Thanks.
It's plug and play. :-)
DaveM
You will need a very long phillips screwdriver with a magnetic head. That's the only special tool I needed.
It's even easier on a WRX/Forester.
-juice
Craig
Craig
Switch to fresh air and your problem will almost certainly go away.
Sly
A good method of trouble shooting is to rotate the tires from the front to the back.. If it is the tires, the problem should go from the steering wheel vibration to the seat of the pants vibration...
Good luck,
Billy