I believe Subaru used to address the piston slap noise by completely swapping out the short block prior to 98. I believe they became a little more cost concious after that and began offering replacement pistons that more directly deal with the problem.
I had piston slap with my 98 Forester and almost was about to get the short block replaced when the new pistons came out. They worked and continued to work at least until I departed with my Forester at 105K miles.
Unfortunately, the one drawback of this "fix", in hindsight was increased oil consumption. Since the new pistons were added to a block with some miles on it, the rings probably didn't seat as well and resulted in some blow by.
I think I would rather have the piston slap on on my cold engine than increased oil consumption. It only lasts a few minutes and I burn hardly any oil between oil changes. I take some solace in the apparent fact that the piston slap does not lead to long term reliability issues. My block was replaced at a little over 50K miles. I figure if I keep the car until 125K I will still only have 75K on the short block.
I think it's time for new tires on my 2001 Outback. I live in Wisconsin so rain and snow are issues. Any recommendations? I put B.F. Goodrich T/A Control tires on my Ford Contour and they already need to be replaced at 24,000 miles.
I'm trying the BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires. They get installed this afternoon. I think one or two others here have them as well. Snowing here in Minneapolis this morning, but not enough to have some winter fun. Just enough snoe to mess up the morning commute.
I put Falken Ziex 512 tires on my Miata, and they've been great. CR rated them best of the H-rated performance all seasons. I got them from Vulcantire.com for cheap, too.
Just put four new Bridgestone Turanza LS-H on my 2001 OB Limited. The Subaru dealer installed them. I asked about the need to align the wheels. They said that the wheels generally do not go out of alignment. In fact they do not even have a check repair machine. They judged that things are OK based on old tire wear (44,000 miles on the Firestone Wildeness tires) and a road test. I normally got an alignment on my other cars when changing tires. This is my first Subaru. Is the alignment more stable on OBs relative to other cars (my cars for years have been Honda Accords) Thanks in advance.
Juice, Are you surprised that my dealer does not have an alignment checkout machine? Regarding the tire wear, the only thing it might indicate is the average alignment status. Are Subies more robust in design that might make the alignment more stable? Regarding your first comment. Am I likely to mess up a good thing if I get it aligned at my local Midas (my dealer sends his alignment jobs there - based on his general comments there are very few). Is it tough for an inexperienced mechanic to get it right? Are the specs very tight or are they tough to adjust because of some mechanical issues?
Not sure what year you are talking about, but when using the defroster, my '96 does not operate on "recirculate." It only recircs when using dash, foot, or combo of them.
I, too, will have the 'instafog' problems and it is caused, in my situation, by snow sucking into the cowling and turning to steam, much like a warm air humidifier, in the heating radiator. The quickest way to clear it up is to crack open a front window and an opposite back window to get cross ventilation in the car and clear out the excess moisture.
If you have a newer car and it really does recirculate on defrost, then I don't know what's causing it, but opening the windows to clear it will still help.
-Wes-
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
If anything, Subaru's are worse in my experience. I would definitely have it done at a good tire shop -- someplace that does a lot of alignments and has good equipment that is calibrated. My Subaru dealer did not do a very good alignment, but I got an excellent one at Firestone when I got four new tires.
Here is an update on the VisionPlus H1 bulbs I installed as lowbeams in my '02 Bean. One lasted a lttle over a year and 14,000 miles, second one burned out today a little less than two years old and 24,000 miles.
I did not see enough of a difference to justify the price ($40 for the pair). I am going back to the regular halogen bulbs at $10 each.
I was having a 'problem' (so I thought) with bulbs burning out about once every 3 months so I went with some PIAA H4 bulbs that were supposed to operate "no problem" for 1-3 years. They lasted 6 months for close to $90. Ouch. That was a waste of money.
I started using Napa brite-lites again and installed new struts on the car. Now I get about 6 months each out of them, but at $12/bulb, it's one heck of a lot cheaper than those PIAAs.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
I know that you know your way around an engine, so here is the simple explanation:
It's a distinctive knocking sound from the engine. It is loudest when first started. Especially louder when extremely cold.
It is caused when there is some play somewhere between the piston, connecting rod and the cylinder. Component tolerances are also a factor, exascerbated by a cold engine. You start the car, and the pistons knock around until the engine starts to warm up.
I believe that it must have something to do with the engine design on a certain series of engines, as it typically affects the pistons on only one side.
My 99 Legacy GT has the symptoms. It is loud in the morning. It sounds like a diesel engine at 10 below. Idling the engine, it goes away within 3-5 minutes. With 116k, and no oil consumption, I am not overly concerned. My 03 Outback makes some noise for under a minute. The prior 96 Outback never made the noise.
The issue is when the knock does not go away. Either the pistons and/or block would need replacement.
I pretty much agree with everyone else's posts. The short block in my 98 Outback was replaced due to piston slap.
My understanding is that the skirts on newer pistons are typically shorter to lessen the amount of mass of the piston. This may allow the piston to rock back and forth slightly in the cylinder before everything warms up. The piston is basically banging off the inside of the cylinder wall.
The best way I could describe the sound from inside my vehicle was that is sounded like a sewing machine. On mine, if I was to pop the hood, stand next to the engine and rev the engine when it was cold it sounded like someone was beating on the engine block with a hammer. It was most noticeable as the engine slowed down, just after it was revved. I was surprised at how loud and awful it sounded.
After two years and 40K miles the piston slap is back again on my new short block. I have never heard of an engine failure due to piston slap so I plan on just living with mine. I figure if I keep the car to 150K miles the new short block will have less than about 100K miles on it and I think it will last at least that long.
I have been told that Subaru is now replacing the pistons rather than the entire block, but I don't know if that is true or not.
Here's my $0.02. worth: I've got a 2001 OB with 55k on the odometer. Last week I put on a set of Turanza LSZs. The difference between these tires and the OEM Wilderness is unbelieveable: handling has improved, steering is more precise (the old tires tended to understeer), quieter ride etc. I thought buying Z-rated tires was overkill on a car with a 120 mph speedometer and I don't live in Montana (that's the state w/o speed limits, right?) but the customer comments and ratings at tirerack.com convinced me to opt for the highend tires. I'm glad I did.
Here's my $0.02. worth: I've got a 2001 OB with 55k on the odometer. Last week I put on a set of Turanza LSZs. The difference between these tires and the OEM Wilderness is unbelieveable: handling has improved, steering is more precise (the old tires tended to understeer), quieter ride etc. I thought buying Z-rated tires was overkill on a car with a 120 mph speedometer and I don't live in Montana (that's the state w/o speed limits, right?) but the customer comments and ratings at tirerack.com convinced me to opt for the highend tires. I'm glad I did.
Sorry about the double post, I don't know how I did that especially with the time stamps being an hour apart.
My favorable impression of the LSZs might have something to do with the cost, if I'm spending $150+ per tire, I want to believe they're the best thing since sliced bread! I all honestly, the improvement I've noticed with this tire change has been more dramatic than any tire change I've done in the past.
Don't panic. Our boxer engines are typically more noisy than other engine types at cold start up. Compared to a comparable inline-4 engine, there are twice as many camshafts so it's going to make more noise to begin with.
Piston slap has a very distinct sound. It's a hard knocking that rises and falls with engine RPM. And as explained before, it happens as a result of the boxer engine using shorter piston skirts to improve performance. Most people don't have it, or at worst, a minor case that generally goes away once the engine warms up and tolerances tighten up.
Aarrgh! My 2000 OBW Ltd. was rear-ended this week. No injuries or major damage, but bumper is off kilter and paint is cracked and flaking. I'm supposed to get a call from the other driver's insurance estimator to look at it. I imagine it will require a new bumper.
Does anyone know if the replacement bumpers that come from Subaru are pre-painted? I suppose that is a possibility since all 2000 OBWs had the same silver-colored bumpers. It would be nice since it would mean the painting was done at the factory rather than locally at a body shop. However, I know that is unlikely, as pre-painting them is an extra step that Subaru probably doesn't want to have to deal with. I just fear a lousy job that starts flaking off after a year or two (or even just a few months). I have that problem with my front bumper (not sure if it was repainted by the previous owner -- if it was, he withheld that information from me -- or if it is just a lousy original paint job). --K9Leader, Newark DE 2000 OBW Ltd., 58K miles 1998 Toyota Sienna, 100K+ 1994 Lincoln Mark VIII, 105K 1993 Volvo 940, 98K
I don't know if there are replacement bumper covers direct from Subaru.
I destroyed the front bumper cover on my 99 GT on I95 when I didn't clear a tire tread on the road. Totally cracked the air dam and around the fog lights.
My friend who owns a body shop did the repair. The cover was aftermarket, black and cost $250. Total repair was $500 with paint and labor.
The key is preping the cover. Light sanding, then a bonding agent is applied before the flexible paint. It has lasted 5 years (translation 5 New England winters) and about 80k miles.
The new cover has held up quite well with no peeling, and some chips. Rob M.
You should only get an aligment done at the dealer. Nowadays, these cars are unibody construction. There is no frame. The toe in/toe out stuff doesnt work like it used to. To get a modern car aligned, they have to often time break the factory welds.
I had my 89 Accord aligned for years as I was burning through tires about every 35-40k. Got it aligned with each new tire set. Finally, by chance, years ago, I took the car to the dealer for a state inspection (used to live in PA). The dealership said they could not get the car into alignment. They needed to replace a part that would cost me $150.00. I did it reluctantly.
It was the best thing I ever did for that car. I owned it from brand new, and sold it with 160k on it. At the time I took it to the dealership, the car had 85k on it. First time the car ever drove straight since the factory.
Find a dealership that has an aligment machine on the property. Call Subaru and see what they say about not having to align it. Check out the Subaru website and sign up at mysubaru.com
Tires should last 65k or so under most all types of driving.
In my case, I only trust alignments by alignment specialists. Any shop with equipment can tweak settings based on a readout, but there is some art involved in getting the optium setting.
In fact, I've scheduled an alignment on my relatively new 05 Legacy GT next week.
thanks everyone for the explanations of piston slap. interesting... while my subie engines have always sounded louder and deeper than other cars I've owned, it sounds like piston slap is a distinctly different noise related to rpm. i'll keep my ears open for that.
This is the first time I ever heard of the need to get alignments at the dealership. What is the basis of the comment? I am not aware of anyone telling me that "they have to often time break the factory welds".
I am not sure that I want anyone breaking my factory welds.
I can only relate the story I experienced with my Honda Accord as described. I probably got that car aligned 5 times...in addition to the 3 sets of tires that I went through before it was finally done right...at the dealer.
The factory welds that I spoke about was from the Subaru dealership. I recently had a battery light (see previous post on this subject), on my 1997 Outback. I developed a relationship with the shop manager of the subaru dealership. When I related the Honda story to him, he told me about the alignment situation that occurs. And that includes the factory welds that need to be broken. And his suggestion that as a result, an aligment only be done at the dealership.
Again, I can only relate what happened to me with my Honda Accord. And that in combination with what the subaru dealership said sold me. The Honda drove perfectly until I sold it with 160k. And prior to getting it aligned at the honda dealership (about 85k), it pulled, and, I was running through tires too quickly. And all the, "alignments", that I had paid for were bogus. The honda dealership told me that the car hadn't probably been in alignment for 6 years with the part they had to replace.
Take it for what it is worth. Just passing along my experience.
Thanks for your input. I sent a message to Subaru as you suggested. I pointed them to this discussion (forum). Lets see what they say on this, I will report when I get something. I also asked about dealers in my area that might/can do alignments.
You should only get an aligment done at the dealer. Nowadays, these cars are unibody construction. There is no frame. The toe in/toe out stuff doesnt work like it used to. To get a modern car aligned, they have to often time break the factory welds.
That is absolutely incorrect. They should never have to touch the body welds -- all alignment adjustments (at least on the Hondas and Subarus I have owned) are in the steering mechanism, subframe, or wheel hub mount. You loosen nuts/bolts and make adjustments.
I have gotten some of the worst alignments ever from dealers, and some of the best from specialty shops and tire shops. Dealers don't typically have expertise in this area, hence they do a mediocre job. In fact, you can do an alignment at home with some fairly simple tools and probably equal or exceed the dealer's job!
Sorry to hear about this! The bumpers come unpainted, but the good news is that you can get a fairly good paint job on an isolated part like a bumper. Because they can prep, paint, and bake this "isolated" part off the car, the results are usually good. If you take it to a good shop, the results ought to be as good or better than factory paint.
Now, when they have to start painting/blending the metal parts of the car, that's when you have to worry.
Why do things have to be so difficult? While the specialty places for Oil change do a lousy job, it seems when it comes to alignment, the specialty shops do a great job. CR or Edmunds should do a report on which shops are good. That will be helpful information.
Well, maybe.... This is what I think they may be talking about.
Suspensions with multiple components (upper and lower control arms - like US cars of old) had full adjustability on caster, camber and toe. But many Mac strut designs do not. Toe is always available - from the steering rods. Newer systems have off-center-axis bolts that allow a few degrees of adjustment for caster and camber, but many older designs did not.
I had an older Nissan that developed a perpetual pull the the right. Rack measurements showed a 3-4 degree difference in Caster left to right, yet no visible unitbody or suspension component damage. I was told that the only way to fix it was to break welds and add/subtract from factory lengths from the way the subframe was constructed. No way!!! I went home and studied the printout, and how everything was assembled, then removed the right strut. I filed long slotted holes in the three spring tower mounts, and slightly modified the center 3" hole to accommodate sliding the strut top about a half inch. The car drove straight and true from that day forward!!!
Again, Craig is right on. Alignments are done completely from normally accessible points. I'll bet anything that at the factory, the chassis is put together and then the alignment done using these same points, much like in any shop.
Here's a great write up on Epinions about the 2000 OB by a former mechanic with a particular bent for suspensions:
He praises how Subaru "nailed" the suspension with it's ability to be adjusted.
Also to further Craig's point, I'm taking my GT wagon in to a specialty alignment shop tomorrow for a full alignment check and wheel balance. Not that my GT is drifting or feels out of spec, but I've found that brand new doesn't always mean in spec with regards to alignment.
I just read the article you posted, and it reinforces what I had presented. While Subaru provides adjustment for some settings, many mfgrs do not. The author suggests doing with the rear suspension pretty much what I did myself some 15 years ago:
"though not adjustable, can be altered with the bolt slop in the strut to knuckle mounting holes. While you won't get much, it may be enough to add enough to get it closer to where it should be."
Slot the bolt holes yourself, and you can get additional adjustability in a pinch!
Comments
I had piston slap with my 98 Forester and almost was about to get the short block replaced when the new pistons came out. They worked and continued to work at least until I departed with my Forester at 105K miles.
Unfortunately, the one drawback of this "fix", in hindsight was increased oil consumption. Since the new pistons were added to a block with some miles on it, the rings probably didn't seat as well and resulted in some blow by.
Ken
Karl
Bridgestone Potenza RE-950 (sport oriented)
Bridgestone Turanza (ride oriented)
Pirelli P Zero Nero M+S (sport)
Michelin Pilot A/S (sport)
Not sure if these tires come in the OEM size other than the first two...
Craig
Dunlop SP5000 (all season, high performance)
Dunlop SP Sport A2 (all season, performance)
I had the SP5000s on my Forester and liked them very much.
Ken
--Jay
I put Falken Ziex 512 tires on my Miata, and they've been great. CR rated them best of the H-rated performance all seasons. I got them from Vulcantire.com for cheap, too.
-juice
Thanks in advance.
-juice
Are you surprised that my dealer does not have an alignment checkout machine?
Regarding the tire wear, the only thing it might indicate is the average alignment status.
Are Subies more robust in design that might make the alignment more stable?
Regarding your first comment. Am I likely to mess up a good thing if I get it aligned at my local Midas (my dealer sends his alignment jobs there - based on his general comments there are very few).
Is it tough for an inexperienced mechanic to get it right? Are the specs very tight or are they tough to adjust because of some mechanical issues?
I'd leave it be if that's what was recommended to you. The old "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
-juice
I, too, will have the 'instafog' problems and it is caused, in my situation, by snow sucking into the cowling and turning to steam, much like a warm air humidifier, in the heating radiator. The quickest way to clear it up is to crack open a front window and an opposite back window to get cross ventilation in the car and clear out the excess moisture.
If you have a newer car and it really does recirculate on defrost, then I don't know what's causing it, but opening the windows to clear it will still help.
-Wes-
Starting 7/18/01, the recirc mode is disabled in defrost mode to help eliminate window fogging.
http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ChangeInfo.pdf
DaveM
So how do you like the Turanzas so far?
Craig
I feel an alignment is a fair price to pay to assure even wear on your new tires.
Jim
One lasted a lttle over a year and 14,000 miles,
second one burned out today a little less than two years old and 24,000 miles.
I did not see enough of a difference to justify the price ($40 for the pair). I am going back to the regular halogen bulbs at $10 each.
Cheers,
Matt
I also went back to the OE halogens. 7 years later they still work fine.
-juice
I started using Napa brite-lites again and installed new struts on the car. Now I get about 6 months each out of them, but at $12/bulb, it's one heck of a lot cheaper than those PIAAs.
-Elissa
It's a distinctive knocking sound from the engine. It is loudest when first started. Especially louder when extremely cold.
It is caused when there is some play somewhere between the piston, connecting rod and the cylinder. Component tolerances are also a factor, exascerbated by a cold engine. You start the car, and the pistons knock around until the engine starts to warm up.
I believe that it must have something to do with the engine design on a certain series of engines, as it typically affects the pistons on only one side.
My 99 Legacy GT has the symptoms. It is loud in the morning. It sounds like a diesel engine at 10 below. Idling the engine, it goes away within 3-5 minutes. With 116k, and no oil consumption, I am not overly concerned. My 03 Outback makes some noise for under a minute. The prior 96 Outback never made the noise.
The issue is when the knock does not go away. Either the pistons and/or block would need replacement.
I hope this helps! Rob M.
When taking delivery of our 03 Outback, the salesman went out of his way to explain this when going over the car.
My understanding is that the skirts on newer pistons are typically shorter to lessen the amount of mass of the piston. This may allow the piston to rock back and forth slightly in the cylinder before everything warms up. The piston is basically banging off the inside of the cylinder wall.
The best way I could describe the sound from inside my vehicle was that is sounded like a sewing machine. On mine, if I was to pop the hood, stand next to the engine and rev the engine when it was cold it sounded like someone was beating on the engine block with a hammer. It was most noticeable as the engine slowed down, just after it was revved. I was surprised at how loud and awful it sounded.
After two years and 40K miles the piston slap is back again on my new short block. I have never heard of an engine failure due to piston slap so I plan on just living with mine. I figure if I keep the car to 150K miles the new short block will have less than about 100K miles on it and I think it will last at least that long.
I have been told that Subaru is now replacing the pistons rather than the entire block, but I don't know if that is true or not.
Karl
But sidewalls are stiffer, so I'm not sure that ride is better, it might be harder.
-juice
My favorable impression of the LSZs might have something to do with the cost, if I'm spending $150+ per tire, I want to believe they're the best thing since sliced bread! I all honestly, the improvement I've noticed with this tire change has been more dramatic than any tire change I've done in the past.
Sly
Piston slap has a very distinct sound. It's a hard knocking that rises and falls with engine RPM. And as explained before, it happens as a result of the boxer engine using shorter piston skirts to improve performance. Most people don't have it, or at worst, a minor case that generally goes away once the engine warms up and tolerances tighten up.
Ken
Does anyone know if the replacement bumpers that come from Subaru are pre-painted? I suppose that is a possibility since all 2000 OBWs had the same silver-colored bumpers. It would be nice since it would mean the painting was done at the factory rather than locally at a body shop. However, I know that is unlikely, as pre-painting them is an extra step that Subaru probably doesn't want to have to deal with. I just fear a lousy job that starts flaking off after a year or two (or even just a few months). I have that problem with my front bumper (not sure if it was repainted by the previous owner -- if it was, he withheld that information from me -- or if it is just a lousy original paint job).
--K9Leader, Newark DE
2000 OBW Ltd., 58K miles
1998 Toyota Sienna, 100K+
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII, 105K
1993 Volvo 940, 98K
I destroyed the front bumper cover on my 99 GT on I95 when I didn't clear a tire tread on the road. Totally cracked the air dam and around the fog lights.
My friend who owns a body shop did the repair. The cover was aftermarket, black and cost $250. Total repair was $500 with paint and labor.
The key is preping the cover. Light sanding, then a bonding agent is applied before the flexible paint. It has lasted 5 years (translation 5 New England winters) and about 80k miles.
The new cover has held up quite well with no peeling, and some chips. Rob M.
I think they come primed in black, other body panels do at least. I'm not sure about the plastic bumpers.
Call your dealer and ask, bet they could answer that easily.
-juice
I had my 89 Accord aligned for years as I was burning through tires about every 35-40k. Got it aligned with each new tire set. Finally, by chance, years ago, I took the car to the dealer for a state inspection (used to live in PA). The dealership said they could not get the car into alignment. They needed to replace a part that would cost me $150.00. I did it reluctantly.
It was the best thing I ever did for that car. I owned it from brand new, and sold it with 160k on it. At the time I took it to the dealership, the car had 85k on it. First time the car ever drove straight since the factory.
Find a dealership that has an aligment machine on the property. Call Subaru and see what they say about not having to align it. Check out the Subaru website and sign up at mysubaru.com
Tires should last 65k or so under most all types of driving.
In fact, I've scheduled an alignment on my relatively new 05 Legacy GT next week.
Ken
thanks,
elissa
I am not sure that I want anyone breaking my factory welds.
More discussion on this please!
The factory welds that I spoke about was from the Subaru dealership. I recently had a battery light (see previous post on this subject), on my 1997 Outback. I developed a relationship with the shop manager of the subaru dealership. When I related the Honda story to him, he told me about the alignment situation that occurs. And that includes the factory welds that need to be broken. And his suggestion that as a result, an aligment only be done at the dealership.
Again, I can only relate what happened to me with my Honda Accord. And that in combination with what the subaru dealership said sold me. The Honda drove perfectly until I sold it with 160k. And prior to getting it aligned at the honda dealership (about 85k), it pulled, and, I was running through tires too quickly. And all the, "alignments", that I had paid for were bogus. The honda dealership told me that the car hadn't probably been in alignment for 6 years with the part they had to replace.
Take it for what it is worth. Just passing along my experience.
Thanks again!
Bob
This is the first that I have heard of Subaru's having factory welds on alignment.
Rob M. Owner of 4 Subarus
That is absolutely incorrect. They should never have to touch the body welds -- all alignment adjustments (at least on the Hondas and Subarus I have owned) are in the steering mechanism, subframe, or wheel hub mount. You loosen nuts/bolts and make adjustments.
I have gotten some of the worst alignments ever from dealers, and some of the best from specialty shops and tire shops. Dealers don't typically have expertise in this area, hence they do a mediocre job. In fact, you can do an alignment at home with some fairly simple tools and probably equal or exceed the dealer's job!
Craig
Now, when they have to start painting/blending the metal parts of the car, that's when you have to worry.
Craig
you can see where to put the key in?
Suspensions with multiple components (upper and lower control arms - like US cars of old) had full adjustability on caster, camber and toe. But many Mac strut designs do not. Toe is always available - from the steering rods. Newer systems have off-center-axis bolts that allow a few degrees of adjustment for caster and camber, but many older designs did not.
I had an older Nissan that developed a perpetual pull the the right. Rack measurements showed a 3-4 degree difference in Caster left to right, yet no visible unitbody or suspension component damage. I was told that the only way to fix it was to break welds and add/subtract from factory lengths from the way the subframe was constructed. No way!!! I went home and studied the printout, and how everything was assembled, then removed the right strut. I filed long slotted holes in the three spring tower mounts, and slightly modified the center 3" hole to accommodate sliding the strut top about a half inch. The car drove straight and true from that day forward!!!
Steve
Here's a great write up on Epinions about the 2000 OB by a former mechanic with a particular bent for suspensions:
http://www.epinions.com/auto-review-3EAC-6A5B462-395A7508-prod1
He praises how Subaru "nailed" the suspension with it's ability to be adjusted.
Also to further Craig's point, I'm taking my GT wagon in to a specialty alignment shop tomorrow for a full alignment check and wheel balance. Not that my GT is drifting or feels out of spec, but I've found that brand new doesn't always mean in spec with regards to alignment.
Ken
"though not adjustable, can be altered with the bolt slop in the strut to knuckle mounting holes. While you won't get much, it may be enough to add enough to get it closer to where it should be."
Slot the bolt holes yourself, and you can get additional adjustability in a pinch!
Steve