My 1999 Legacy Outback Limited, 81k miles is doing this exact thing. It won't go into gear, but once it does it drives just fine. The dealership says I need a new transmission, $3,500. 81k seems really early, and it looks like I'm not the only one with this problem. Has anyone diagnosed what the problem is, other than 'you need a new transmission'? I had a Honda that I put 185k on and never once had a problem
How successful is Subaru in resolving stuff like this? I can't imagine this isn't some kind of global problem based on the postings here. There have to be hundreds of others out there with this problem who never find this site...
Had a similar problem with our 91. The dealer was no help. The Tappet brothers described a similar problem in Toyotas. Deposits made the valves stick open and we were losing compression. Valve treatment in the oil and the gas cleared the problem up. Will your car restart right away after stalling or does the engine turn over with no resistence/compression?
Hey everyone, would the fuel pump be at fault if, say my car is starting up fine, goes in high idle but as soon as it tries to settle down it stalls. when I tried to keep the car running by pressing the gas it would rev very erratically and if I would let off it would just die. I checked the fuel filter and its good. Also can the pump be replaced without taking the fuel tank off?
Hello, I am thinking of purchasing a 2005 OB Wagon (VDC), but one concern I have is that I have heard it may be difficult to place a child seat (both rear and forward facing) in the center-back position, even though I have heard that this is generally the safest position for a seat to be located. The OB Wagon seems to have latch positions on the two sides, but not in the middle, and the manual apparently advises against putting a child seat in the middle. Does anyone here have experience with using the middle position for a child seat (when only one child seat is needed), and does the seat fit properly and adjust easily?
I believe that this is a pretty common problem on a lot of cars today. Latch hooks are provided on the outboard seats only, requiring the use of the lap belt to secure the seat in the middle position. Having done both with two children, I am in love with the latch system. Plus, on many cars the center seat has a bit of a hump (either to clear the drive shaft tunnel, exhaust mounting, or for style - to provide 'bucket-like' accommodations for the primary passengers), so the child seat seat might not sit in place without wobbling a little. Fortunately, though, all three positions do have upper teather mounts found on newer seats if you still want to use the middle.
Yes my car will restart immediately after it stalls. Usually, I will put in into neutral, restart it, and then go right back into drive and continue driving. What is valve treatment exactly. How would the deposits be cleared up?
maggiethelab: Honda's actually had tranny troubles of its own lately, mainly with the V6 engines in the TL and Odyssey.
'99 with 81k miles? I dunno, I paid extra for a Subaru Gold warranty, I doubt Subaru will just pay for yours. If so then why sell an extended warranty at all?
Call 800-SUBARU3 and see if they'll help out, at least, maybe cover part of it. While we see a few tranny issues/failures I would not call it common.
Stalling: could be fuel pump, sure. They say "spark or fuel". I'd check the plug wires if you have not already.
I had a similar conundrum with my GT wagon. The owner's manual recommends putting the child seat in the outbound positions over the center (The manual does not recommend against the center position, however). At the same time, the rule of thumb is that the center is usually the safest to protect from side impacts.
I tried both and ended up going with the passenger side outbound position because: - The child seat secured better in the outbound position due to the seat contour (as Steve mentioned) - It's easier getting my two year old up and down from her seat at curb side - The center position partially blocked my rear view - There's a bit more room for rear passengers with the child seat in the outbound position. - Even in the outbound position, the child seat is still a good distance from the side door due to semi-bucket configuration.
Hi, I have owned my 97 Legacy Outback for 3 years now and just replaced the dead battery myself. Now the parking lights are flashing and I can hear/feel a ticking coming from a box labelled Subaru Keyless Entry under the drivers side dash. I never received any key-fobs with this car and never even knew it had keyless entry!!
I did find one web site that described a procedure to reset the system after a battery change that referred to a push button under the dash near the drivers left knee. I can't find this button anywhere and I have unscrewed panels and had half the loom hanging down looking for it.
If I don't have the key-fobs or the push button, is there another way I can reset the keyless entry box? All advice is welcome as right now I am leaving the new battery disconnected while parked so it doesnt drain.
My check engine light was on - took it to Subaru and they told me a "common" problem happened: the fuel pressure valve was somehow damaged and it, along with the charcoal canister will need to be replaced. Cost = $441 plus tax. If I don't fix it charcoal pieces could actually enter the fuel system, I'm told, creating a big problem. Does this sound familiar / correct?
When I was under my Forester installing my hitch I saw the canister up close.
Basically it's a fuel vapor recovery system, so that canister will store the fumes so they don't escape and pollute the air.
If you overfill, or even if a full service gas jockey on the NJ turnpike did for you, fuel could fill up that canister and trigger the check-engine light.
Don't top off, and remind full service people not to do so, also.
Hi, My '98 OB has a consistent (not rough) low idle of 3500-4000rpm. Both valve covers leak oil. Could this be the cause? My garage (not Subaru authorized) has tried unsuccesfully three times to fix the leaks by replacing the valve cover gaskets. I had assumed that this was a simple gasket change. Why might it be difficult? I have checked and cleaned PCV valve & throttle body\plate, checked solenoid valve OK, all vacuum hoses seem to be in good condition and the manifold gaskets seem to be OK. One thing I did notice was a milky covering on the inside of the PCV valve hose. Is that normal? Coolant is normal color. -Keith
Odd that it's on the valve covers, and not the heads themselves.
If the engine has ever overheated, the surfaces may not be true (i.e. flat). So they may have to be machined. Then the gaskets will mate up and seal it better.
Valve cover gaskets should be straight forward. Labor and parts is about $350. Both the 96 and 99 exhibited some seepage, which was fixed by torqueing the bolts oh-so slightly.
Milky covering on PCV could be some water vapor being introduced through a bad vacuum hose, or a lot of quick trips, where the engine does not really heat up enough to burn off the water vapor in the engine. Rob M.
Is it possible that the timing could be off as well and the car's computer is compensating in some way? You might consider hooking an OBDII reader up to it and seeing what the system tells you.
The valve cover leaks shouldn't have anything to do with the idle problem. Those darned valve covers are so sensitive to oil levels, heat, etc. I have found that adding gasket sealant to the gaskets when replacing them helps to resist leaks. I have one valve cover that has made it *nearly* two years at this point with no leaks.... and that includes a pair of overheating situations.... The other one leaks again, but 1/4 quart per fill up (300 miles) is a heck of a lot better than before when I lost about 3 quarts per fill up. Much of that was lost through the cam seals though. Did you have those replaced at the same time as the valve covers?
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Thanks for the responses re. my low idle speed and valve cover gaskets. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins. No change. Throttle linkage is fine. I didn't have the cam seals changed when the covers were done and they did use sealant - lots of it by the looks of things. They also overfilled the oil so I wonder if that could be contributing to the leak. Perhaps correct oil level and re-torque? Anyway I was out today and passed a local Subaru dealer (I'm in Santiago, Chile by the way) and wondered if they'd check the ODBII readout for me. So they plugged in the computer and checked the codes. A couple came up, one was an oil presure error, the other an IVAC error. I have to admit I didn't understand much of what the guy said (my Spanish is very poor) but five minutes later the error codes were gone and my idle speed was normal. I think he simply reset the ECU using his diagnostics computer. They didn't charge me a cent for this . Great service. So I was wondering what difference is there between using the diagnostics computer to reset the ECU and disconnecting the battery for 20-30 mins?
Anyway that's that problem fixed. Onto another! I have power steering fluid puddling onto the engine block directly below the power steering pump and reservoir. It's not much but noticable - the fluid level is fine after a month since topping. My question is what seals do we have here. I'm guessing there's one between the reservoir and pump and one in the pump itself. Could I easily DIY these gasket replacements or is it possible that I need a new pump altogether? If I just empty and remove the reservoir and then reseal that would I still need to bleed the system?
I'll not comment on the power steering issue if you are sure that it is power steering fluid on the engine and not oil. I haven't messed with the power steering at all yet, so I don't know anything about it.....
But, if it might be oil, then check around the oil pressure sending unit on the top of the engine (just to the right of the power steering pump and slightly to the left of the alternator). The leak may be coming from there.
Regarding the valve covers.... where is the leak? Is it at the rear of the covers or the front? If it is at the rear (meaning that the front of the covers are dry/free of oil residue), then it is the valve covers, but if the whole lower surface of the valve cover is covered with residue, it might very well be the cam seals. I would guess that 80% or better of my oil leak (when I lost ~3 quarts per 300 miles) was due to cam seal failure. VERY easy replacement when the valve covers are off. In my opinion, these engines are terribly sensitive to being even slightly overfilled with oil - more so than any other car I have ever experienced. If the oil was overfilled, something almost surely failed. Try re-torquing. If it doesn't help, then I would start making a list and pick a good time when you can fly through a laundry list while you've got the whole thing torn apart.
I swear, one of these days I will really get photos posted of my engine-removing adventure. Really.
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Please read #4729. And Please let me know if you have any suggestions for my problem. Also, you made a statement about someone having a coolant leakage, that was troll like, I didn't find their complaint to read, what they were talking about.
Funny after my last visit to the dealer and this was for my yearly state inspection, I had to have a front end alignment, and they told me the smell was "normal" I have not received my questionnaire, I wonder if they some how put a hold on it knowing I would complain about the "normal" service. Which a 1 hour visit turned into little over 3, with no satisfactory results.
I didn't read into too many of the other's headgasket problems, where do I look to see if my car falls under that problem?
The thought of drilling a hole into the frame or cutting/splicing the wiring of the first brand new car I've ever had is totally unappealing to me :surprise: and I was wondering if there were any suggestions or recommendations. I think Hidden Hitch has an application for the Legacy (had good luck with a Hidden Hitch on our Accord), and I am looking for additional input. Also with respect to the wiring, is there one that fits into a factory plug on the factory harness that doesn't require cutting or splicing? The Subaru factory one only lists the Outback. I basically need to tow a U-Haul trailer from time to time to pick up furniture, home maintenance supplies, etc..
'99 up to mid-way through the '02 models, roughly. You can call 800-SUBARU3 to see if you fall under that campaign.
In a way, it's better if you do. They add a conditioner in the coolant for free and you get an 8/100 warranty.
Our '02 is too late, so no warranty. Fortunately I have a Subaru Gold warranty anyway.
You have an '04 so not covered.
Just re-read your post, you report a coolant smell. Hmm.
Some new cars are delivered with the coolant reservoir overfilled, they leak out as the car reaches peak temps, something that does not occur before delivery because the cars aren't on for long enough.
That overflow protection is normal, but it should stop after a few days of use, particularly after you take a long trip.
You can also "burp" the system. There is a screw on the top of the radiator, on my Forester it is a black plastic screw. This lets the air bubbles bleed out to make sure there is no air in the system. It was neat, you could see the bubbles come out as the coolant slowly expanded, once they were gone I just closed the screw.
Not sure if yours is the same but maybe investigate that option?
Yes, on both covers the oil leaks down the back corners. I'll try a re-torque first. Incidently I should have mentioned that after my ECU reset the car feels far better than since I purchased it used a month ago. Quicker off the mark, more power and responsiveness in general, and smoother changes (I have an automatic). I just hope my fuel consumption improves from 14mpg (city suburbs) too!
Nick- Hope you have already resolved nusiance. In case you're still having the annoyance, that elusive reset button is behind (vacinity) of the hood-release lever. Working off my memory of my '98 OB, if you get under the dash, look around the bracket for the hood-release, you should see an inconspicous "pill" like button about 1/4" dia. That button is recessed in a tablet like mount. Depress the button to reset.
Someone else asked this earlier this month as well, so here goes again! On the previous generation, the hitch attachment points were the same between the OBW and Leg Wagon, so that should go in just fine. The problem will be the wiring. While OBW has a connector that you simply plug into, the Leg wagon does not, for some reason. This will require splicing to add the interface/buffer module required to both power the trailer bulbs, and convert separate brake/turn lights into type 1157 taillight bulbs found on trailers.
The real problem, IIRC, was that in addition to the signal wires, you needed a fresh +12v supply capable of driving all of the trailer lights (something like 10 amps) as the interface unit also acts as a buffer. It draws almost nothing from the cars lights - just a signal that something is happening, and creates a fresh drive on the 4 pin plug using the new +12v supply. If you simply 'tap' directly into the taillights without this, you might load them down. Plus, you would have to change the trailer to match the separate turn signals not mated to the brake lights.
Please don't ask others to email you with information. Part of being a vibrant, online community is having the discussions online where everyone can benefit from the questions and answers. Therefore, we highly discourage "email me" posts as we like to have the discussions take place in our Forums and not in email. When questions are answered in email, everyone else in the discussion loses in the opportunity to learn and benefit from the exchange.
Besides, posting your email address is just asking for abuse - spam and whatever else. If you'd like your message deleted because you included your address, just email me or pf_flyer (pat AT edmunds.com or pf_flyer AT edmunds.com) and we'll be glad to take care of it for you.
I have a question, and just wanting to see if I can find an explanation. I bought a 05 Legacy sedan, Atlantic Blue, on May 4. I noticed that there are whorls, about 3, one on each of the right doors, and another on the driver's door. Nothing huge, but from an angle, looks like a ding - and not. This normal?
Also, wound up with tree sap and used a cotton wash cloth and a bit of water, and wound up with scratches...nothing deep...but is the paint really that delicate?
The paint job on your new car should be perfect. I'd bring up any cosmetic issues with the dealer ASAP. If I recall correctly, our vehicles are shipped from the factory with plastic sheets on parts of the chassis to protect the paint. The dealer, as part of the PDI process, removes the film and details your car.
Regarding the tree sap, did you wash the car (or the local area) prior to wiping? If not, the dirt on the paint acts as an abrasive and will scratch the clear coat, Subaru or not. Also, believe it or not, cotton cloths are not as gentle as they seem to be.
The best thing to do to remove tree sap is to: 1) Make sure the area around the tree sap is clean. Either wash the area with a wool mit and car shampoo or, if not too dirty, spray with quick detailer and wipe with microfiber cloth. 2) Use a dab of wax/cleaner on a microfiber towel and gently work it into the tree sap. The chemicals in the cleaner should dissolve the tree sap away.
It's good to keep a bottle of any quick detailing spray in the car with a clean microfiber cloth.
My 05' 3.0R recently developed an interesting problem. As I'm driving, I'll hear a loud pop from the radio and the light panel will go dead on the radio while the lights on the AC will blink every 2 seconds or so. Changing the controls does nothing, but both the radio and the AC continue work at the pre-pop levels. One time I had to stop the car and re-start - everything started to work normal again. Another time it self corrected. Everything else electrical doesn't seem to be affected. Any ideas? Thanks all.
Yet another 2000 Legacy Outback with 48,000 miles with the same problem. Going from Park to Drive it hesitates for at least 10 seconds before the transmission engages. As long as its in Drive its ok after that. Unfortunately my warranty just expired in December. The dealer and an independent subaru mechanic both say it needs a new transmission. Has anyone else gotten the dealer to work with them in this situation?
I took delivery of my Atlantic Blue GT LTD on 5/23. Had 13 miles, and was still fully rapped in the shipping plastic.
Although the dealer prepped the car, I still found adhesive and industrial grime on the roof and hood after washing the car over the weekend. I used a Clay Magic clay bar, followed by Mother's reflections tech wax. It was amazing what the clay bar picked up off the body of a brand new car. The surface is now smooth as glass, and shines like a mirror.
As for the scratches, all clear coats scratch. It just shows more on the darker colors. I found a couple on the rear deck. And FWIW, the front passenger door came pre-dinged from the factory. I'm glad to have the first one done with already! Rob M.
Does anyone know how to program a keyless entry remote for an outback? Mine got lost, I bought a new one on ebay, but unfortunately it came without any instructions. Help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
This is from my '02 owners manual, plus some additional interpretation. Assuming you have the more recent rounded corner transmitter, proceed as follows:
Warning: Do not program your remotes with other Subarus in the vicinity as you may be unknowingly programming someone else's remote for your vechicle!
1. Disarm the security system (if your vehicle is so equipped). 2. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat. 3. Close the driver's door. 4. Place the ignition key in the ignition switch and cycle the switch from "LOCK" to "ON" ten times within 15 seconds. Be sure to stop at the "LOCK" position. (leave the key in the ignition) The horn will sound once to indicate that you are in transmitter programming mode. 5. You must finish the next steps within 45 seconds of the horn honking. A. Open the driver's door. B. Close the driver's door. C. Press and release any button on the transmitter. The horn will sound two times to indicate that the transmitter has been programmed.
The control unit can remember up to 4 transmitter codes, so your lost unit is still active and could potentially be used by a bad guy. Wipe it out by programming the new one and the remaining original two times each to reassign all 4 program slots. You can do this all in one step by repeating items "A, B & C" in quick succession.
Exit Program Mode: After programming your remote, remove the key from the ignition switch. The horn will sound three times to indicate the system is now out of programming mode. Check that your remotes work properly at this time.
There's a short time lag in the car's acceleration, between the time I've depressed the accelerator and the car responds . . . any ideas? (My car's got approx 2,500 miles and was bought new 3-4 months ago.)
My '95 Legacy wagon has 135,000 miles on it and has been an extremely reliable car, so I probably shouldn't complain. But...I have a problem that our mechanic seems unable to diagnose and I'm just not quite ready to call it quits. About two weeks ago, the engine wouldn't turn over when I tried to start it. Got a jump, figured it was the battery and so got a new one (even though the old one tested OK). Driving it out, it felt like it was going to stall. Brought it to the mechanic, who said I needed a new alternator. Got that, but it still didn't feel right and even stalled at a light the same day I got it back. A couple of days later, it was dead in my garage, but started after about the third time I turned the key. Happened again the next day -- both times only after the car had been sitting overnite. After the initial start of the day, it starts up just fine. Brought it back to the mechanic, who, of course, couldn't replicate the problem and said since the new battery tested fine, he didn't know what the problem was. For a few days in a row, it started up fine in the morning, but this weekend, I had to try starting it about five times before I got it to turn over (it was totally dead the first four times). Don't know what's going on, but I can't see how they'll be able to replicate the problem at the dealership unless I leave it there for several days or even a week, which I can't afford to do. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!
Update on another problem with the automatic transmission on the 2000 Outback: -73, 000 miles (initially reported to dealer at 68,000 that transmission was slipping going into drive but dealer could not find anything) -Dealer (who I've been quite pleased with) now states that the pressure is low in transmission fluid and the tranmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced-(. - Per folks on this list I called 800-Subaru3 are reported this problem. My impression was that Subaru was often paying for half the replacement in cases like this -Customer rep seemed helpful and indicated I would get decision in 2 business days. -Customer rep has failed to call back in 7 business days even though I've called back each day to get a status. I'm always told the rep will get back to me but it hasn't happened
Any one else had this situation with Subaru customer support? Perhaps they are seeing so many of these they are doing something about it? hopefully they are not just blowing me off!
Just to clarify, when you say "completely dead," do you mean everything? So, there is no radio, no lights, nothing.... or, is there just no discernable response from the engine when you turn the key to 'start?'
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
Has anyone else experienced early headlight failures on 2005 Outbacks?
I have had the bulb replaced under warranty at 3 months and 6 months for the left and right respectively. The service rep told me that these types of halogen light bulbs need replacing often. I have never had bulbs go anywhere near this quickly on any other car that I have owned.
You may have a bad "camshaft angle sensor". They are known to die after a while on that vintage legacy.. mine did, and I had those exact symptoms. It intermittently wouldn't turn over upon starting, no rhyme or reason.
It's unusual for halogens to go out so quickly. I would expect them to last years rather than months before replacement. "Often" is a subjective term.
It's conceivable that the bulbs were mishandled (ie. fingerprints) on installation or that they are a bad batch. Those probably are the more likely causes than something being amiss with your electrical system.
Since the dealer is replacing them, you do have a paper trail. But if you are concerned, give 1-800-SUBARU3 a call and have them create a case. It might be something worth following up on.
Check your alternator output voltage; it may be a little high. My 00 OB has never blown a bulb and the DRLs run the bulbs at reduced voltage in order to prolong bulb life.
I had a Mazda which ate halogen bulbs for about 12 years until I was forced to replace the alternator. After that it never blew a headlight bulb again.
Hi, Looks like I'm looking for the same thing you are and my search found your question. I have found you an answer. The connectors are under the dash on the drivers side. There are two pairs of fairly large single socket connectors, one pair bright green(Present codes) the other pair black/clear (Memory codes). My Outback is a 2000 so your pairs may be slightly different, however, Try a search on"www.rennacs.com/getcodes". I found this by running a search on Google for " Subaru Computer Codes. There is also a Haynes Manual called Compter codes that lists all of the code for almost all vehicles. Good luck, Ron Mackenzie Ontario, Canada
Please have a look at your car key, put it next to your spare one and if its too worn out , change it. The worn out key may cause a default and blocks your starting procedure. If your car gives no reaction at all,as if the battery is dead you should stop trying for one entire minute and then reinsert the key, this will give time to the computer to reset itself on a key problem procedure blocking the contact for safety reasons. Hope to have been of some help.
I have a condensation leak with my AC on my 2003 Subaru outback Limited. Where is the hole that should get rid of the water...it is coming all over the passenger side.
Comments
Owen
How successful is Subaru in resolving stuff like this? I can't imagine this isn't some kind of global problem based on the postings here. There have to be hundreds of others out there with this problem who never find this site...
I'll be sure to follow up on this.
David
You are welcome! Let us know how this plays out.
Steve
I am thinking of purchasing a 2005 OB Wagon (VDC), but one concern I have is that I have heard it may be difficult to place a child seat (both rear and forward facing) in the center-back position, even though I have heard that this is generally the safest position for a seat to be located. The OB Wagon seems to have latch positions on the two sides, but not in the middle, and the manual apparently advises against putting a child seat in the middle. Does anyone here have experience with using the middle position for a child seat (when only one child seat is needed), and does the seat fit properly and adjust easily?
Thanks.
Steve
Yes my car will restart immediately after it stalls. Usually, I will put in into neutral, restart it, and then go right back into drive and continue driving. What is valve treatment exactly. How would the deposits be cleared up?
'99 with 81k miles? I dunno, I paid extra for a Subaru Gold warranty, I doubt Subaru will just pay for yours. If so then why sell an extended warranty at all?
Call 800-SUBARU3 and see if they'll help out, at least, maybe cover part of it. While we see a few tranny issues/failures I would not call it common.
Stalling: could be fuel pump, sure. They say "spark or fuel". I'd check the plug wires if you have not already.
-juice
I tried both and ended up going with the passenger side outbound position because:
- The child seat secured better in the outbound position due to the seat contour (as Steve mentioned)
- It's easier getting my two year old up and down from her seat at curb side
- The center position partially blocked my rear view
- There's a bit more room for rear passengers with the child seat in the outbound position.
- Even in the outbound position, the child seat is still a good distance from the side door due to semi-bucket configuration.
Ken
I have owned my 97 Legacy Outback for 3 years now and just replaced the dead battery myself. Now the parking lights are flashing and I can hear/feel a ticking coming from a box labelled Subaru Keyless Entry under the drivers side dash. I never received any key-fobs with this car and never even knew it had keyless entry!!
I did find one web site that described a procedure to reset the system after a battery change that referred to a push button under the dash near the drivers left knee. I can't find this button anywhere and I have unscrewed panels and had half the loom hanging down looking for it.
If I don't have the key-fobs or the push button, is there another way I can reset the keyless entry box? All advice is welcome as right now I am leaving the new battery disconnected while parked so it doesnt drain.
Regards,
Nick.
Thanks.
When I was under my Forester installing my hitch I saw the canister up close.
Basically it's a fuel vapor recovery system, so that canister will store the fumes so they don't escape and pollute the air.
If you overfill, or even if a full service gas jockey on the NJ turnpike did for you, fuel could fill up that canister and trigger the check-engine light.
Don't top off, and remind full service people not to do so, also.
-juice
My '98 OB has a consistent (not rough) low idle of 3500-4000rpm. Both valve covers leak oil. Could this be the cause? My garage (not Subaru authorized) has tried unsuccesfully three times to fix the leaks by replacing the valve cover gaskets. I had assumed that this was a simple gasket change. Why might it be difficult? I have checked and cleaned PCV valve & throttle body\plate, checked solenoid valve OK, all vacuum hoses seem to be in good condition and the manifold gaskets seem to be OK. One thing I did notice was a milky covering on the inside of the PCV valve hose. Is that normal? Coolant is normal color.
-Keith
If the engine has ever overheated, the surfaces may not be true (i.e. flat). So they may have to be machined. Then the gaskets will mate up and seal it better.
-juice
Have you tried resetting the ECU? Also, is the throttle linkage properly adjusted?
I think the milky covering on the inside of the hose might be an oil by-product?
Larry
Milky covering on PCV could be some water vapor being introduced through a bad vacuum hose, or a lot of quick trips, where the engine does not really heat up enough to burn off the water vapor in the engine. Rob M.
The valve cover leaks shouldn't have anything to do with the idle problem. Those darned valve covers are so sensitive to oil levels, heat, etc. I have found that adding gasket sealant to the gaskets when replacing them helps to resist leaks. I have one valve cover that has made it *nearly* two years at this point with no leaks.... and that includes a pair of overheating situations.... The other one leaks again, but 1/4 quart per fill up (300 miles) is a heck of a lot better than before when I lost about 3 quarts per fill up. Much of that was lost through the cam seals though. Did you have those replaced at the same time as the valve covers?
Anyway that's that problem fixed. Onto another! I have power steering fluid puddling onto the engine block directly below the power steering pump and reservoir. It's not much but noticable - the fluid level is fine after a month since topping. My question is what seals do we have here. I'm guessing there's one between the reservoir and pump and one in the pump itself. Could I easily DIY these gasket replacements or is it possible that I need a new pump altogether? If I just empty and remove the reservoir and then reseal that would I still need to bleed the system?
Thanks,
Keith
But, if it might be oil, then check around the oil pressure sending unit on the top of the engine (just to the right of the power steering pump and slightly to the left of the alternator). The leak may be coming from there.
Regarding the valve covers.... where is the leak? Is it at the rear of the covers or the front? If it is at the rear (meaning that the front of the covers are dry/free of oil residue), then it is the valve covers, but if the whole lower surface of the valve cover is covered with residue, it might very well be the cam seals. I would guess that 80% or better of my oil leak (when I lost ~3 quarts per 300 miles) was due to cam seal failure. VERY easy replacement when the valve covers are off. In my opinion, these engines are terribly sensitive to being even slightly overfilled with oil - more so than any other car I have ever experienced. If the oil was overfilled, something almost surely failed. Try re-torquing. If it doesn't help, then I would start making a list and pick a good time when you can fly through a laundry list while you've got the whole thing torn apart.
I swear, one of these days I will really get photos posted of my engine-removing adventure. Really.
Please read #4729. And Please let me know if you have any suggestions for my problem. Also, you made a statement about someone having a coolant leakage, that was troll like, I didn't find their complaint to read, what they were talking about.
Funny after my last visit to the dealer and this was for my yearly state inspection, I had to have a front end alignment, and they told me the smell was "normal" I have not received my questionnaire, I wonder if they some how put a hold on it knowing I would complain about the "normal" service. Which a 1 hour visit turned into little over 3, with no satisfactory results.
I didn't read into too many of the other's headgasket problems, where do I look to see if my car falls under that problem?
Thanks
Also with respect to the wiring, is there one that fits into a factory plug on the factory harness that doesn't require cutting or splicing? The Subaru factory one only lists the Outback.
I basically need to tow a U-Haul trailer from time to time to pick up furniture, home maintenance supplies, etc..
In a way, it's better if you do. They add a conditioner in the coolant for free and you get an 8/100 warranty.
Our '02 is too late, so no warranty. Fortunately I have a Subaru Gold warranty anyway.
You have an '04 so not covered.
Just re-read your post, you report a coolant smell. Hmm.
Some new cars are delivered with the coolant reservoir overfilled, they leak out as the car reaches peak temps, something that does not occur before delivery because the cars aren't on for long enough.
That overflow protection is normal, but it should stop after a few days of use, particularly after you take a long trip.
You can also "burp" the system. There is a screw on the top of the radiator, on my Forester it is a black plastic screw. This lets the air bubbles bleed out to make sure there is no air in the system. It was neat, you could see the bubbles come out as the coolant slowly expanded, once they were gone I just closed the screw.
Not sure if yours is the same but maybe investigate that option?
-juice
Hope you have already resolved nusiance.
In case you're still having the annoyance, that elusive reset button is behind (vacinity) of the hood-release lever.
Working off my memory of my '98 OB, if you get under the dash, look around the bracket for the hood-release, you should see an inconspicous "pill" like button about 1/4" dia. That button is recessed in a tablet like mount. Depress the button to reset.
-Dave
The real problem, IIRC, was that in addition to the signal wires, you needed a fresh +12v supply capable of driving all of the trailer lights (something like 10 amps) as the interface unit also acts as a buffer. It draws almost nothing from the cars lights - just a signal that something is happening, and creates a fresh drive on the 4 pin plug using the new +12v supply. If you simply 'tap' directly into the taillights without this, you might load them down. Plus, you would have to change the trailer to match the separate turn signals not mated to the brake lights.
Steve
the link you provided is not active. Could you send the article/powerpoint file to
dryjacks@yahoo.com
thanks.
Please don't ask others to email you with information. Part of being a vibrant, online community is having the discussions online where everyone can benefit from the questions and answers. Therefore, we highly discourage "email me" posts as we like to have the discussions take place in our Forums and not in email. When questions are answered in email, everyone else in the discussion loses in the opportunity to learn and benefit from the exchange.
Besides, posting your email address is just asking for abuse - spam and whatever else. If you'd like your message deleted because you included your address, just email me or pf_flyer (pat AT edmunds.com or pf_flyer AT edmunds.com) and we'll be glad to take care of it for you.
I have a question, and just wanting to see if I can find an explanation. I bought a 05 Legacy sedan, Atlantic Blue, on May 4. I noticed that there are whorls, about 3, one on each of the right doors, and another on the driver's door. Nothing huge, but from an angle, looks like a ding - and not. This normal?
Also, wound up with tree sap and used a cotton wash cloth and a bit of water, and wound up with scratches...nothing deep...but is the paint really that delicate?
Thanks for any insights!
Rich
The paint job on your new car should be perfect. I'd bring up any cosmetic issues with the dealer ASAP. If I recall correctly, our vehicles are shipped from the factory with plastic sheets on parts of the chassis to protect the paint. The dealer, as part of the PDI process, removes the film and details your car.
Regarding the tree sap, did you wash the car (or the local area) prior to wiping? If not, the dirt on the paint acts as an abrasive and will scratch the clear coat, Subaru or not. Also, believe it or not, cotton cloths are not as gentle as they seem to be.
The best thing to do to remove tree sap is to:
1) Make sure the area around the tree sap is clean. Either wash the area with a wool mit and car shampoo or, if not too dirty, spray with quick detailer and wipe with microfiber cloth.
2) Use a dab of wax/cleaner on a microfiber towel and gently work it into the tree sap. The chemicals in the cleaner should dissolve the tree sap away.
It's good to keep a bottle of any quick detailing spray in the car with a clean microfiber cloth.
Ken
Rich
Steve
Although the dealer prepped the car, I still found adhesive and industrial grime on the roof and hood after washing the car over the weekend. I used a Clay Magic clay bar, followed by Mother's reflections tech wax. It was amazing what the clay bar picked up off the body of a brand new car. The surface is now smooth as glass, and shines like a mirror.
As for the scratches, all clear coats scratch. It just shows more on the darker colors. I found a couple on the rear deck. And FWIW, the front passenger door came pre-dinged from the factory. I'm glad to have the first one done with already! Rob M.
Warning: Do not program your remotes with other Subarus in the vicinity as you may be unknowingly programming someone else's remote for your vechicle!
1. Disarm the security system (if your vehicle is so equipped).
2. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat.
3. Close the driver's door.
4. Place the ignition key in the ignition switch and cycle the switch from "LOCK" to "ON" ten times within 15 seconds. Be sure to stop at the "LOCK" position. (leave the key in the ignition) The horn will sound once to indicate that you are in transmitter programming mode.
5. You must finish the next steps within 45 seconds of the horn honking.
A. Open the driver's door.
B. Close the driver's door.
C. Press and release any button on the transmitter. The horn will sound two times to indicate that the transmitter has been programmed.
The control unit can remember up to 4 transmitter codes, so your lost unit is still active and could potentially be used by a bad guy. Wipe it out by programming the new one and the remaining original two times each to reassign all 4 program slots. You can do this all in one step by repeating items "A, B & C" in quick succession.
Exit Program Mode: After programming your remote, remove the key from the ignition switch. The horn will sound three times to indicate the system is now out of programming mode. Check that your remotes work properly at this time.
Steve
approx 2,500 miles and was bought new 3-4 months ago.)
-73, 000 miles (initially reported to dealer at 68,000 that transmission was slipping going into drive but dealer could not find anything)
-Dealer (who I've been quite pleased with) now states that the pressure is low in transmission fluid and the tranmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced-(.
- Per folks on this list I called 800-Subaru3 are reported this problem. My impression was that Subaru was often paying for half the replacement in cases like this
-Customer rep seemed helpful and indicated I would get decision in 2 business days.
-Customer rep has failed to call back in 7 business days even though I've called back each day to get a status. I'm always told the rep will get back to me but it hasn't happened
Any one else had this situation with Subaru customer support? Perhaps they are seeing so many of these they are doing something about it? hopefully they are not just blowing me off!
I have had the bulb replaced under warranty at 3 months and 6 months for the left and right respectively. The service rep told me that these types of halogen light bulbs need replacing often. I have never had bulbs go anywhere near this quickly on any other car that I have owned.
You may have a bad "camshaft angle sensor". They are known to die after a while on that vintage legacy.. mine did, and I had those exact symptoms. It intermittently wouldn't turn over upon starting, no rhyme or reason.
Costs about $150 to replace.
Give it a try, it's a cheap fix.
It's conceivable that the bulbs were mishandled (ie. fingerprints) on installation or that they are a bad batch. Those probably are the more likely causes than something being amiss with your electrical system.
Since the dealer is replacing them, you do have a paper trail. But if you are concerned, give 1-800-SUBARU3 a call and have them create a case. It might be something worth following up on.
Ken
I had a Mazda which ate halogen bulbs for about 12 years until I was forced to replace the alternator. After that it never blew a headlight bulb again.
Good luck,
Ron Mackenzie
Ontario, Canada
Hope to have been of some help.