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Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    For the first time since last year it was warm enough to drive with the window partly down. I also heard a noise I forgot about since last year, it sounds like a distant pinging noise. Awhile ago I tried using mid grade gas with no difference. That's why I'm wondering if it really is a cylinder ping that I'm hearing. When I had it at the dealership a few months ago for a slight head gasket leak I had them check it, they didn't notice the noise. Power and mileage seem fine. I wonder if anyone else has heard this? I seem to notice it after shifting (automatic) into high gear. With the radio on low it wouldn't even be noticeable.
  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    I wonder if this is what I'm hearing in my '02, which I referred to as pinging. Here's my post:

    For the first time since last year it was warm enough to drive with the window partly down. I also heard a noise I forgot about since last year, it sounds like a distant pinging noise. Awhile ago I tried using mid grade gas with no difference. That's why I'm wondering if it really is a cylinder ping that I'm hearing. When I had it at the dealership a few months ago for a slight head gasket leak I had them check it, they didn't notice the noise. Power and mileage seem fine. I wonder if anyone else has heard this? I seem to notice it after shifting (automatic) into high gear. With the radio on low it wouldn't even be noticeable.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Boxers have a very distinct sound, some call it a growl. I'd suggest you listen to a similar model at idle to see if you hear the same type of noise. It might be nothing.

    -juice
  • hustoncshustoncs Member Posts: 21
    Just wanted to let ya know I took the car to that dealer and a front bearing was bad. Thanks for the pointer!

    Cheers

    :shades:
  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    I've had 6 Subarus, the 6th is actually my son's '92 Legacy. That definitely has the distinctive Subaru/boxer engine sound, a bit like an original VW bug. I was listening tonight, the noise is so slight there's probably nothing wrong.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    piston slap on a cold engine is not subtle. You'd know it if you had it.
  • xctrygirlxctrygirl Member Posts: 1
    First off let me say "hi" and this forum seems to be a godsend so far!!

    My lovely 2000 OB ltd has had ongoing brake issues since about '04. We have replaced the rotors now 3 times in the last year. Its got an awful shake when I hit the brakes and the new pads and rotors only remedy things for about 2 months max.

    Anyone have the golden secret to this issue???

    Thanks a ton,

    ~Emily :)
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    This is something I heard, which I wanted to try next time it seems like a warped rotor, but haven't had one yet (shucks!)

    Anyway it was suggested to me to get the car up to about 70 - 75 mph, then apply the brakes hard, but not so hard as to engage the antilocks, till your speed is about 15mph - DON'T STOP (unless you have to to avoid hitting something or so Mr. Policeman can hand you your ticket), repeat 2 more times. Also try to make your braking while on flat or going downhill.

    The theory, which I don't fully understand, is that the rotors are not warped, but the brake material has built up on the rotors causing the 'shakes', by doing the above you 'redistrubute' the material evenly over the pad or burn it away.

    If you try it, please post your results.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Emily,

    Tkanic's suggestion has merit. The trick here is not to come to a complete stop with your foot on the brake pedal.

    Despite the common use of the term 'warped', the disk actually has a variation in thickness caused by the transference of brake pad material onto the rotor at a single spot. This can occur if you commonly come off a highway onto a short exit ramp, and sit at a traffic light with your foot firmly on the brake for a minute. The hot disk cooks the pad material, burning it onto the surface.

    The other common problem (which drives me nuts) is when I leave the car sit outside for a week, and the pads leave a severe rust spot. Hard braking as described will sometimes scuff it smooth again, but once I had to have the rotors turned, and the pads replaced under warranty, it was so severe.

    Steve
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Another possible cause that has come up repeatedly on these forums is the problem of overtorqued wheel bolts. If your repairer uses an airgun/rattlegun to refit tyres be very suspicious. They should be hand torqued to specified values (I can't remember what these are but someone will leap in with correct measurement).

    If overtorqued, the rotors have an uneven tension pulling them laterally, resulting in high spots. This is exacerbated by a build up of braking material adhering to the metal of the disc.

    You can look for the high spots yourself by very firmly chocking all wheels, putting the car in neutral and then removing one wheel at a time. Spin the disc by hand looking for uneven-ness in the small scratches you can see on the surface. If you place a firm support near the wheel you can prop a felt pen fractionally away from the disc, and slowly spin by hand, adjusting the clearance until the pen only touches occassionally. More simply a thumb nail (if you don't bite your nails) can be applied in the same way to detect high spots. The gretest distortion is likely to be toward the outer edge of the disc.

    Remember to check both sides of the disc but be very careful as to how you look at the rear face of the disc. A hand mirror and bright light is useful.

    I personally found the Outback to be more susceptible to brake rotor distortion than other vehicles I have owned, but suspected this was caused by overtightened bolts from a couple of tyre changes.

    A couple of other factors may be relevant. If you brake hard and do not modulate your braking as you come to a stop, the pad area and disc surface immediately underneath cannot dissipate heat as efficiently as the open area of the disc. Differential cooling of the metal can introduce distortion. Practically this means that you should brake earlier, progressively easing off the brakes as you come to a rest. If you have braked hard and come to a complete stop, ease the vehicle forward a little to dissipate heeat from the pads.

    You can check whether you are braking too hard by thinking about the car's pitch attitude as you come to a stop. If the nose is pitched downward, you are braking too hard too late. If it essentially flat, this suggests you are modulating the braking effectively.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • ssteveksstevek Member Posts: 45
    That's what I thought, I really don't think my car has piston slap. The thing I'm keeping an eye on now is the head gaskets. The dealership ran the "treatment" that they admitted may or may not help the small leak I have. Surprisingly I barely notice the anti-freeze smell much at all now and the coolant level seems somewhat stable. I'll need to check again soon.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Good point, Graham. Spec on our cars is 58 - 72 ft-lbs. I set my click wrench at 70, and recheck after a week or so.

    Steve
  • friendly_jacekfriendly_jacek Member Posts: 96
    Thomps13,
    Funny that you asked about my TPS problems (folks, this is not aboat Office Space movie). I was just doing more web searches as the problems reappeared again. In short, dealer replaced TPS due to drivability problems and the P0122 code in 2004. The TPS was not the isssue as the problems and the code come back several times. It comes and goes. Very hard to drive as the engine buckles and the tranny shifts insanely hard at wrong points. I did the full troubleshooting thing by the FSM, full 4 pages of connection checking, with no results. It's either an intermittent connection problem or a bug in the ECU software that interprets some data as wrong reading from TPS.
    If anyone else has a solution, please let me know.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    There is a rather strange but effective break-in procedure for new brake rotors. It basically involved slowing down from high speeds but not quite coming to a full stop, and doing so for several heat cycles. This helps both the pads and the rotors break-in.

    See if they can provide you with details of this procedure with the next set of rotors you get.

    -juice
  • outbackguyoutbackguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem many times with my 2004 Outback 3.0, 36K mikes surging when I drive between 62 and 70 at about 2,200 RPM. It only seems to do it on long trips and occurs on flat slightly up-hill roads. Once it starts and occurs a few times, it seems to happen every time I am at this speed. It feels like it is shifting in and out of overdrive (I see a slight 100-200 RPM change), or like wind is hitting the car, or like my 57 Chevy felt when the fuel pump was going bad. It does it with the AC off, but is more pronounced with the load of the AC. Sometimes it does not occur the next day, and other times it will.

    This last weekend on a 300 mile trip, at night at about 55 Deg, it did it (not air on), and because of the roads I was at that speed and slightly uphill for a long time and it did it several times, then it did it every time I was at that speed. The next day we never got up to that speed again so I did not notice the problem.

    The following day on our way home it started again, I could feel it again but because the road was slightly down hill it was not as noticeable. But after about 3 hours of driving I came to a stop but the RPM remained at about 2K RPM. I had to put my foot hard on the break to over ride the force of the engine, and then when the speed dropped to about 5 mph, the RPM suddenly dropped to about 600 RPM and the car stopped instantly because I had my foot on the break so hard. When I started, the car surged forward to about 2K RPM again and I had to hold it back with the break. It had the jerky /surge feeling at 62-70 MPH for the next 150 miles and it had the high RMP problem every time I would stop. When I could feel the RPM not coming down when I let off the accelerator, I put it in neutral and the RPM remained at 2K RPM for about 5 seconds the then slowly dropped down to about 1200, the suddenly dropped to 600.

    After the car sat over night, the car surged forward when I stepped on the accelerator but the “sticking” at 2K RPM did not re-occur, nor has the jerky feeling at 62-70.

    The accelerator on this car has always acted strange. When I am going down a rather steep hill in 2nd with the accelerator slightly on, then suddenly let off the accelerator, the RPM increases about 500 then suddenly drops to where you would expect it.

    Of course the dealer can never duplicate the problem, but the transmission was replaced for another reason and the problem went away for about 6 months.

    Does anyone have any ideas?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    the rear wiper on the hatch of my 98 wagon is dead, it was painfully slow for a few months and is now totally dead, the washer still works fine. Is this electrical (doesn't seem like it as why would it slow down) or some mechanical problem, gears stripped in the motor or something.
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Member Posts: 160
    I've noticed that the front of the car seems to make a few poping noises when backing up and turning the wheel. Seems to come from either or both sides. Ideas?

    I've also 'always' had the piston slap when the engine is really cold (lower than 25F). Sometimes sounds like a diesel. I've kept 5W30 in it to help with this problem.

    Mark
    2003 Legacy
    34,000 miles
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    My guess is that unless the motor burned out, it needs to be lubed up! You should be able to access the unit with relative ease (cannot vouch for how easy it is to crack it open!) by removing the plastic molding over the inside of the hatch. There are about a dozen plastic connectors around the perimeter of the molding that will pop out with steady prying force applied near the anchor points. It does not sound to me like an electrical (wiring) problem.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    Eech... popping noises.... might be your front differential binding; could also be a CV joint just starting to go out, but I'd have it checked sooner rather than later....

    Seems fairly early for a problem with either of these parts, but there are always outliers!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    Sounds like a vacuum problem to me, but unfortunately I could not diagnose it any closer than that. If your '04 is still a cable-controlled throttle, you might also try lubing the the throttle components on the engine side to see if that helps with responsiveness. Until I replaced a filter and the EGR valve on my vacuum system recently, the car would often be slow to drop back to a 600 rpm idle speed.

    If you have had this problem inspected before, you could probably take it to a different place and specifically ask them to test the vacuum system for leaks or other problems; and maybe even get them to do it under warranty. The 2000+ RPM surging issue sounds like a real safety problem...
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • stevenm1stevenm1 Member Posts: 25
    I understand that the 1995 Subaru Legacy and Impreza uses the OBDII system. However, it does not have a connector receptacle on the lower dash to the left side of the steering wheel like my 1997 Impreza and 1998 Legacy has. Does anyone know where the connector receptacle is? I did find a connector under the dash, but it will not fit the OBDII scanner cable.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    I was thinking about this on the way home after broomball this morning...

    The slight (few hundred) increase/decrease cycles in the RPMs is the torque converter locking and unlocking. It typically will not unlock (given a constant speed, incline... basic load on the drivetrain) unless some factor changes. Barring anything else, perhaps something is putting more resistance on your movement? If you are right on a torque threshold, it might be jumping back and forth because the system "thinks" it is okay to lock the converter, then oops... too much load, unlock it... okay, lock it. I have never experienced the problem or heard of it, so my guess is that there is either something causing increased resistence (brakes, gears, tires.... something) or the throttle input / fuel-air mix is changing (this goes back to the vacuum). Anyway, just tossing out my musings. That is what I get for trying to think at 0100. :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You sure it's not OBDI?

    It might be under the hood, where the fuses are.

    -juice
  • jajjaj Member Posts: 55
    The check engine light goes on in my '05 Outback wagon along with the cruise light flashing and the cruise control disabled. The first time this happened I undid and re-tightened the gas cap; after a few start-ups everything was ok for several months. This has now been a recurring issue, with it happening every couple of days- no fill-ups in between. Has anyone else had this experience? Any suggestions?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    What is the code? Do you have an OBD2 scanner? I have one if you're in the DC area. Some Autozone location also will scan them for free.

    It could be anything, there are tons of different codes.

    -juice
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    I had this happen when I was on a steep icy slope, when all 4 wheels were turning and the car wasn't moving forward. After a short time I got the check engine light, and the CC flash. For 24 hours my CC didn't work. Also the code flashed in the odometer for a brief time.

    What happened is that the car detected that the wheels were turning at different rates, which should happen often, so the car assumed that a speed sensor was bad.

    The loss of the CC was so anoying in this car that I now carry a OBD2 scanner so I can clear the code right away and I can use the CC. I find this car uncomfortable to drive long distances w/o the CC.
  • kodiakrockskodiakrocks Member Posts: 7
    So, my 1998 Outback has apparently given up the ghost - I am a little disappointed as it only has 113k on it (I've been religious about all the major services and pretty good on the oil changes esp. as it got older). Apparently the head gasket is on its way out (discovered by dealer, confirmed by a trusted mechanic) - coolant reservoir shows dirty coolant though the car still drives great (21 mpg) and no hesitation.
    Trusted mechanic tells me either replace the engine and short block for $5k or ditch the car. I'm thinking ditch the car - the car is aged, other parts will start to go bad on it (will need new tires in another 5-10k) might as well start anew.

    I'd almost go with a Subie again except for the fact that trusted mechanic tells me that every other week there's a subie in his shop (he specializes in toyota)requiring this work. I know two people personally who had to drop in new engines into their Outback/Legacies...before 100k?!! I don't really want to set myself up for failure again. Any thoughts?

    I was also told that older Subies (over 75k) burn oil, mine sure did. Is this common? Is the engine/head gasket problem also as common as my experience/my mechanic says?

    Despite this, I am still reconsidering buying a new Outback (2006) - it's just so darn affordable compared to others out there ( currently comparing to RAV4 and Highlander Hybrid - pricey but attractive for someone moving into their 40s!). I've also really enjoyed how it has handled in snow, mud and off-road (I was in Death Valley during last spring's flower explosion and because the campsites were all full, the ranger recommended we drive up one of the canyon roads and camp up there after he gave a rave review on the Outback vs. most SUVs on such roads! Hard to turn your back on a Ranger's opinion!!!) I also can't complain about maintenance, all I ever replaced was the radiator - everything else (tires, spark plugs etc) I consider normal wear and tear. I think it all came out to about $9k over 8 years - not bad in my opinion.

    BUT the new Outback doesn't get much better mpg than my current one (a bit of a disappointment really why isn't subaru on the hybrid bandwagon??) AND believe it or not, it has worse pick-up than my 98??!! How is that even possible?? CR also says that the new Outback is sluggish, so it isn't just my imagination. I would be okay with slower pick-up if it had commesurate increase in mpg but it doesn't (making the Highlander Hybrid look real appealing). Lastly, I am very concerned about exposing myself to the possibility of having to replace the engine earlier than 100K.

    I am tempted by Toyota given its legendary dependability, but the Hybrid is a bit of a risk (not to mention a 10k+ investment) and I am unsure of its off-road capability (primarily badly eroded fire roads). But I love that it is a hybrid (though the mpg isn't what I would like that's the trade-off for the space and ground clearance vs the Prius) - the body style could stand to be cooler in my opinion!

    Does anyone have any input on any or all of these issues? I'd appreciate it, I am tearing my hair out trying to figure out what way to go...Subie or Toyota??! Don't even mention the RAV4 - useless without the V6 and no real numbers on mpg with it anyways, but I am guessing below 20 and I'll be doggoned if I go with a new car with WORSE gas mileage than my current one - I mean oil is a finite resource folks! The Forrester is an interesting option BUT the seats are so incredibly uncomfortable I can't imagine driving for 5 hours to Bishop for climbing in it!

    Thanks!
    K
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    Just a note about hybrids in general. Their mpg's are usually higher in city then highway. If you do mostly highway driving the advantage is greatly diminished - to the point that it will never be worth it IMHO. I don't know about off roading with them.

    As for Subie and hybrids, they are manufacturing advanced batteries that Toyota will be using in their hybrids (again IIRC), and I think I recall seeing a subie prototype hybrid, which is sort of like a mini Legacy, not a impresa however, the styling is much more Legacy like.

    For power, the turbo seems to have more then enough, but the non-turbo could use more, but with AWD and 27 mpg (in my experence w/ a 05i) it's really hard to ask for more power at that level of efficency.

    The seats w/ the 05 OBi are also not the most comfortable, but your butt finally adapts to it (not the other way around), I'm just glad I'm not overweight a much wider butt and I see it could be very unconfortable.

    If you are worried about oil being a finite resource then you should consider a flex fuel car and see if you can get E85 near you, subies are not flex fuel cars, at least the 05's are not, but I beleive that they can be converted to it, I have heard a suggestion that larger fuel injectors w/o 'telling' the onboard computer would do it, but if you want to be green, might as well start as you mean to go on and buy one right from the start.
  • stevenm1stevenm1 Member Posts: 25
    We currently have 3 Subarus (95 Impreza - 126K miles, 97 Impreza - 93K miles, 98 Legacy - 187K miles), and they have been very reliable. Aside from the usual maintenance items (clutch changes, drive axle boots, front main engine seals, timing belts, hoses, water pump), I have not had to replace anything unusual. The high mileage engine in the 98 Legacy is a bit noisy compared to the others, but it still runs good and doesn't use or leak any oil. We purchased all of them used, and the total price we paid for of all three is less than the cost of one new one. They definitely have been cost effective for us to own. Have you considered a used engine from a wrecking yard? That should run about $800-1200 depending on mileage.
  • gearhead4gearhead4 Member Posts: 122
    I appreciate your indecision. I would like bring up a few points.
    Your Outback has the old Dual Overhead Cam engine. Outbacks have been propelled by single overhead cam engines since 2000. I have heard the SOHC design is more reliable (but Subaru recommends using their cooling system additive to help preserve the head gaskets).
    Regarding the new Outback vs Toyota, I can't say anything bad about Toyotas. My wife's 04 Camry has been a gem.
    My 06 Outback 2.5i AT is only a month old, but is incredibly smooth riding. I have been averaging 24 MPG. My 05 Legacy 2.5i (5spMT)averaged about 28 MPG, so I am a little disappointed with the Outback MPG (I think it's largely due to the auto trans). The Legacy also performed better with it's 5 speed manual trans.
    The hybrids are intriguing. I know two people with Prius' s. They both love the cars and are very happy with the MPG. The Highlander won't do as well, and the price is very high (at least $6000 higher than an Outback). Even with gas at $3/gallon it will take well over 100,000 miles of fill-ups to make up for the incremental cost of the hybrid.
    If you are considering the RAV4, you should compare it to a Forester, not an Outback. The Forester is less expensive and performs better (quicker and more efficient) than the Outback.
    I figure we won't see a Subaru Hybrid here in the US for at least 18 months. They say they're are working on it, but seem to be far away from having one ready for sale.
    Subaru is currently offering $2000 rebates on the Outback and Forester. That may make your decision a little easier.

    Let us know which way you go.

    Jim (gearhead4)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,789
    I'd hardly call the head gasket problem you are having with your '98 a car-killer and I certainly would not recommend complete replacement of the engine as a fix. The head gasket failure is a mix of poor design and age. I think that you probably would have had this failure even if there were only 50K on the car today. Heck, at this point, I'd buy your car for dirt and fix it myself for a '98 with only 113K! But, transferring to the replacement topic since that seems to be where you have headed:

    Are you looking at auto or manual? I drove an '06 Ltd auto and it sure had a lot more pep than my '96 auto! If you are driving a decent mix of highway and city, you should get better than 21 mpg out of a new 2.5. I am sure you must have been getting better than that when your 98 was newer. I was getting a solid 27 mpg out of my '96 2.5 for the first year I had it, and it was at 83K when I purchased in 2000. If it is burning oil, then your compression surely is not as good as it once was and therefore mileage will suffer. Once broken in, I would expect 24-25 quite consistently out of a base '06 Outback.

    In the end, it should be whatever fits your needs best, but do not allow the current head gasket problem to factor too heavily against Subaru as you will most likely not have that problem again with either a new one or your '98 should you opt for gasket replacement.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tkanictkanic Member Posts: 78
    My 05 Legacy 2.5i (5spMT)averaged about 28 MPG, so I am a little disappointed with the (one month old) Outback MPG (I think it's largely due to the auto trans).

    More likely due to the break-in, When I got my 2.5i I got low miliage, it creapt up to the 27 over 10,000 miles - yes it took that long.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    As a Subaru owner, I'm going to give you the biased answer of staying with Subaru.

    Why?

    As for your engine concerns, the Phase I DOHC engine used in your 98 Outback has gone through a few major revisions since it's inception. The headgasket problem primarily afflicted the earlier models (Phase I) and earlier Phase II models. Although Subaru never did a recall, they were very aware of this problem and have addressed it in later designs.

    As for the pick-up, did you drive a 2006 model? The OB gained quite a bit of weight with the 2000 model change and then lost some in 2005. I'm not sure where it stands relative to the 98 model, but it may still be a tad heavy. Also, are you taking into account that any 2006 you test drive is still not broken in and will be a bit more sluggish.

    If at all possible, I would use the $5K to purchase another OB rather than put it into your current model. As you suspected, you'll probably run into other wear and tear items.

    Also something else to think about with the Prius -- Consumer Reports did an analysis recently on the cost-effectiveness of Hybrids and most of them did not come out ahead in terms of gas savings. Of course there are some assumptions with that analysis, but it shows that unless you're absolutely enamored with the "green" side of hybrids, you really don't make up for it at the pump.

    Ken
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    As for your engine concerns, the Phase I DOHC engine used in your 98 Outback has gone through a few major revisions since it's inception. The headgasket problem primarily afflicted the earlier models (Phase I) and earlier Phase II models. Although Subaru never did a recall, they were very aware of this problem and have addressed it in later designs.

    Not sure if it was a recall per se, but I have an '01 Outback with the Phase II and they did extend an 8yr/100Kmi warranty on the head gaskets to some cars (including ours), on the condition that the car had to have Subaru's special coolant additive put in at a dealership by a specified date.
  • age2age2 Member Posts: 1
    i found a 2002 OB that peaked my interest until i heard about this gasket issue. this one has 37,000 miles and has had the gasket problem. the second owner purchased it a year ago, and the gasket has been replaced under her ownership (she has kept maintenance records). my sense is that if this has happened so early on, it's likely to happen again. is this a reason to pass on this one?
  • maddy5maddy5 Member Posts: 2
    I am looking for a little help on an idle issue I have with my '06 legacy 2.5i wagon (manual trans.). Recently I have noticed that when the clutch is engaged but with my foot off of the accelerator the engine idle will go back and forth between 1000 and 2000 r.p.m. as if searching for an appropriate idle speed. It will repeat this pattern over and over until the clutch is released. Has anyone else noticed this on their '06 and/or able to offer any explanation/solution for it?
    Thanks in advance.
    Maddy
  • kidchellinkidchellin Member Posts: 11
    We had this problem in our 2000 OB. Dealer FINALLY believed me and changed out the O2 sensors (twice I think) and a couple other exhaust system parts. It fixed it for only a little while then seemed to build to doing it again more frequently. After they did n't believe us...it actually did it on test drive for them! Yeah!
    they replaced the air filter, did some other "stuff" and it has been fine since.They dont' know what they did to fix it actually. I had no idea there was a recall on the O2 sensors until I saw your posts and this explains why they did not charge me the first time they "fixed" it.

    We do experience this flux in RPMs that you are referring to with the torque converter when we are going over the high bridge we use to get home. the change from level to climb to down hill to climb seems to be tricky for the TC to handle smoothly. Can this behavior be eliminated?
    vicki
  • andyvtandyvt Member Posts: 2
    Hi Maddy,
    I have an 06 Outback Ltd Wagon 2.5i 5 MT and had almost the same problem. The engine would rev at 2500 rpm when the clutch was engaged during the first few minutes after a cold start (this WAS NOT a cold idle issue). I brought it to my dealer three times and they kept telling me SOA knows about the problem and is working on a solution. Finally, last month they said SOA had a partial fix. They sent my ECU to Indiana and reflashed it. Sure enough, the problem went away. (Actually, on occasion, I still get an occasional rev when I make a hard left like when pulling into a parking space, and I've depressed the clutch; I guess that's why the dealer told me Subaru had only a "partial fix." This sounds more like your problem) You can find a lot more on this at subaruoutback.org and search for phantom rev problem. --Andy in Vermont
  • goosegoggoosegog Member Posts: 206
    I do not recall any discussion about O2 sensor recall. Can you direct me to the post(s) please?

    I've just replaced mine after getting a code indicating that it had failed.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    By then you may need a new battery pack, and it might cost you more than fixing a Subaru engine for all we know.

    -juice
  • kidchellinkidchellin Member Posts: 11
    Yes, message #4651. There are so many issues with this system, amazing. vicki
  • outbacklemonoutbacklemon Member Posts: 3
    One more chance to get information if this has happened to anyone who has a 2003 Subaru Outback. this has happened twice causeing me to be in accidents.
  • maddy5maddy5 Member Posts: 2
    Andy,
    Thanks for the information and the link to subaruoutback.org. It sounds like others are having identical problems. Reflashing appears to be the fix at this point.
    Cheers,
    Maddy
  • slickdogslickdog Member Posts: 225
    It's hard to say. Subaru must feel that the coolant additive has some effectiveness in preventing the problem (or at least delaying it), and I guess you can hope that they designed a better replacement gasket (assuming the gasket itself is the problem), but I honestly don't know what the chances are that it could happen twice to the same car. If you do buy it, you should probably look into whether the coolant additive has been used, and if not get some put in.

    Since about 4 months ago our '01 occasionally smells of burnt coolant when it returns to the garage, so I suspect we too may be on our way to head gasket replacement, but we have about 68K miles now and there is no record of anything being done under warranty by the previous owner (and it was still under warranty when we got it).
  • carterdsccarterdsc Member Posts: 4
    I have similar problems with my 1991 Legacy (2.2L engine). Water is pushed out of the engine into the overflow bottle and pops the lid off pouring coolant onto the ground. There is no water in the oil or oil in the water, and no loss of power. I have replaced the radiator, radiator cap, replaced the thermostat, replaced the head gaskets, had the heads resurfaced, checked for cracks, valves and seats checked. And still have the same problem. I have not changed out the water pump. I have considered that possibly the heater core may be plugged but I feel that that would not cause the problem because coolant would leak into the interior or I would smell anti-freeze in the car. I have attempted to do an back flush of the cooling system by attaching a water hose (lots of pressure) to the output side (passenger side, top) of the engine after isolating the radiator completely. I see only a trickle of water at the input (lower, drivers side) of engine with thermostat removed. Have considered the following possibilities: gaskets on upside down? NO. Water pump impeller jammed causing a blockage? Saw no evidence of that when we had engine torn apart. We did not however pull the water pump to visually check it out. One mechanic mention the heater core as a possible cause, but I really don't think so. I feel the is a blockage in the water jacket of the engine but??????

    If anyone can give me some insight into the problem I would greatly appreciate it.

    John
  • stevenm1stevenm1 Member Posts: 25
    You should install Prestone's backflush tee on the highest heater hose. When you fill the radiator with antifreeze, leave the cap off of the backflush tee until antifreeze comes out. This will allow air to more easily vent out of the cooling system, and prevent air block. Some Subaru radiators also have a vent that is opened when refilling the system with antifreeze to help prevent air block. If your car has air conditioning, you should allow check to see that the condenser in front of the radiator is not externally dirty, and preventing cooling air from making it through to the radiator. You can check if the heater core has a blockage by installing a short piece of 5/8" heater hose onto the inlet and outlet ports on the engine to bypass the heater core, and see if the same thing happens.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    John,

    Have you had the cooling system pressure tested?

    Jim
  • donbostromdonbostrom Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on a 2000 Outback, 109K miles. Do you also have some white foam in the overflow bottle? I had the water pump replaced yesterday because they saw coolant dripping from the timing belt cover but today the problem is back. The foam indicates some air in the system. The over-full overflow bottle indicates... what? maybe engine or exhaust pressure leaking into the cooling system?

    Don
  • carterdsccarterdsc Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Steve I'll try that. The radiator does have a pressure relief vent at the input (upper right hand side) of the radiator. My intent is to try a slow fill with the vent open to see if I do in fact have air trapped in the engine. Didn't get a chance to do it this last weekend, but will today or tomorrow for sure. Will send feedback as to results. Also prder a pressuer tester to test for leaks and/or cracks. Have not received it as yet.

    John
  • carterdsccarterdsc Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the response Jim,

    I ordered the Tester last week and will test system as soon as I receive it. I did stopp by a couple parts houses just to see if they performed that type of testing. They didn't. I could take it to a shop but I'd have to tow it because I never know how far I'll be able to trive (5 miles or 15 miles) before the water overflows out of Overflow bottle. Will test as soon as tester arrives.

    John
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