Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

uberpixel · January 2007

Well - this is a shot in the dark - but...

I'm having the same issue you described with my 95 AWD Legacy. Only the front wheels are spinning on ice. Tested it in 1 and 2 (not just Drive) and checked for the 2WD fuse. I even put a fuse in to make sure that the 2WD switch was functioning. It lights up 2WD with a fuse in place. But when I take it out - still no AWD.

Did you ever come to a conclusion regarding your problem?

Thanks in advance!

dougb10 · January 2007

Mikey,

I am no expert on piston slap...hard to give an idea on brake replacement either as this depends on the kind of driving you do. Some people drive "hard" and wear out brakes very quickly.
I would ask if the timing belt has been replaced...as this is due around the 100,000 km. mark (I think).
The price seems to be OK if the car is clean and well serviced...can you get the history from the dealer?

Doug

vinnie07 · January 2007

Hi. We purchased an 07 Outback too. I noticed same thing as you with drips on driveway after car sat overnight and was started up next day. Fluid was pink when I caught it on a tin tray, though would turn yellowish after a few hours in the open air. Smelled and looked like ATF to me. Dealer diagnosed as leaking transmission cooler line, at a hose clamp near the steering column. So yes the drip was near the steering area, but NO it wasn't power steering fluid in our case and I suspect in your case too. This all happened a month ago. Now just yesterday I noticed more drips, this time from under radiator area at left front of car. I looked under there to see pink fluid leaking from the forward end of a transmission cooler line, at the clamp where the rubber hose attaches to the cooler unit. So this is the second OEM clamp that is not tight enough. These clamps are the spring loaded non adjustable type so the solution is to remove the clamp and replace with an aftermarket adjustable hose clamp and tighten moderately (not too tight). I refused to do another dealer drop off for this, as the last time they had the car they scratched it slightly and over filled ALL the fluids ("for good measure" hah!)

I have to wonder what is going on at the factory with these clamps/hoses. Perhaps the supplier of one or the other was changed and either the hose got skinnier or the clamp tension got looser. I hope all the clamps on this car don't start leaking! :sick:

As far as getting the correct ATF level to keep this brand new transmission happy ...I need to start a new thread for that.

vinnie07 · January 2007

Hi all. I've noticed extreme variability of the ATF level on the dipstick depending on how much the car is driven/warmed up. Given that it's winter in New England and cold (say 25 or 30 degrees) I don't think the standard advice of "drive the car a few miles to warm it up, then shift through all gears and leave it in park, let idle a bit and check level while idling" is sufficient. Short of measuring actual ATF temperature (via an OBD II CAN BUS tester that works with the 2007 Outback--which I don't possess) is there a better rule of thumb on how warm the car should be? I'm just afraid that I might be way off the mark. What I see is: If I drive the car 3 miles "around the block" ONCE I get a level reading of half way between Cold Full and Hot Low. Drive around block SECOND time and level reads half way between Hot Low and Hot Full. Drive around the block a THIRD time and level reads slightly above Hot Full. How can us mere mortals decide? :confuse: And if I end up putting too much in there
will it harm the transmission or just overflow out the dipstick tube harmlessly?

And does anyone know how to obtain the OEM fluid? I asked at my dealer and was told that they use it out of 50 gallon drums and it's not for sale to customers. He said to just use Dextron II, but I don't want to use second best, nor do I want to mix non OEM with OEM fluid.

Thanks.
Vinnie

paisan · January 2007

I would make sure it's good and hot, like 5-10 miles. As for what fluid, check the manual, it will tell you which type to use. My Nissan Armada requires Nissan Type J, which you can only get at the dealer. I heard the 06 Forester takes OEM Subaru Type J which is obtainable at the dealer.

If your dealer doesn't stock it try a different dealer.

-mike

xwesx · January 2007

I agree - if you are checking it based on the "hot full" mark, then make sure it is hot, and 10 miles or more will get it there - especially in those "warm" temperatures down in New England! Heck, 10 miles would warm it up even at -30F.

Oh, and this is from the owner's manual:

Use one of the following types of automatic transmission fluid:

Genuine Subaru Automatic Transmission Fluid Type-HP
IDEMITSU ATF HP
Castrol Transmax J
Pennzoil ATF-J*

* Available only in the USA (except Alaska and Hawaii)

5-speed Auto - only use fluids specified above.
For 4-speed Auto Trans:

"If the recommended automatic transmission fluid is unavailable, Dexron III may be temporarily used. If the Dexron III is used continuously there will be a noticeable increase in the vibration and noise from the automatic transmission."

paisan · January 2007

Interesting, it looks like most of the newer generation Japanese transmissions are requiring TypeJ. I wonder what's in this stuff???

-mike

xwesx · January 2007

*edit* should have mentioned that the above information is on page 11-23 of the 2007 Legacy/Outback owner's manual.

Mike, I wonder that as well. The older transmissions called for Dexron III. I have a feeling, though, that the Subaru OEM type HP is actually "IDEMITSU ATF HP."

paisan · January 2007

Probably correct. I guess with all the extra gears and tighter tollerances in the ATs they are requiring different fluids. I really wanted to put synthetic in mine but I don't want to risk the warranty on it. I forget now who makes the Nissan and Subaru trannies but they are made by the same Japanese company.

-mike

xwesx · January 2007

I am fairly sure it is Jatco, but do not hold me to it!

paisan · January 2007

Yup that's it, I couldn't recall the brand name.

-mike

ateixeira · February 2007

Japanese Automatic Transmission COmpany. :shades:

They're good. Mazda switched to those when the MPV went to a 5 speed auto and reliability improved on the trannies.

-juice

gearhead4 · February 2007

I had a piston slap problem on my 2003 Legacy, but only in cold weather (below 30 F) and the noise went away when the engine warmed up. I had my Subaru dealer fix it. They pulled apart the engine and replaced 2 pistoms with redesigned parts. No more piston slap.
So, I think you are safe.
My son's 96 Lumina has had piston slap its whole life (105,000 miles), so I don't think it's a serious problem).
Keep am eye on the head gaskets. Subarus have some history of head gasket problems. Yours may have been solved... but I would inspect the heads every few months. Also, check for oil in the radiator, or coolant in the oil (milky appearance). If steam comes out of the tailpipe after the engine is fully warm could also be a sign of a head gasket with an internal leak.
The price sounds a little high for a 2000 MY Legacy. But you should be able to get another 60,000 kilometers of reliable service from it, so you decide if it's worth it.

Jim W

rjplano · February 2007

Anyone know where I can find a replacement power antenna for my 1997 Legacy Outback (other than the dealer$$)?
I've got the old one out so that's not an issue. I can only find one supplier, Metra, that makes something close, and they don't seem to have one guaranteed to fit my model. Thanks in advance.
-Rob

mitzi · February 2007

Thank you for allowing me to post my question about my subaru that wouldn't start after the engine was replaced.
There was a ground that had been hooked up, but it was corroded. Once it was cleaned up, the subaru started right up.
Thank you WXESX for replying. We had no ideal of what was going on.
I do have one more question, the car is running fine, but sounds like a belt is sqeaking a little. Once you put your foot on the clutch it goes away. Any ideas?
Mitzi

buzbychaff · February 2007

I have a 99 legacy and there is a fairly loud ticking noise coming from the right side of the engine as you look at it, around the valvegear area possibly, it is louder when the engine warms up, has only done 70k miles, and apart from that is fine. I was told its possibly the tensioner, but i think it sounds further back, rather than the front, and if it was the tensioner, would it be quieter when cold? I tried some tappet lifter fluid, and has made no difference! Doesnt sound terminal, sounds like a hollowish noise

paisan · February 2007

That's a bad throwout bearing. Might as well replace the clutch as long as you are going to drop the trans. Suprised you didn't put a new clutch, pressureplate, and throw out bearing in while you had the trans off the car for the engine replacement.

-mike

jpdionne · February 2007

I just bought a 2003 legacy and it ticks or slaps as you describe. The car is still under the power train warranty. how did you approach the dealer to investigate and fix this? I brought the car in as per the maintenance schedule and they made no mention of it. I also mentioned this noise before I brought the car in and they asked if it disappeared after the car warmed up. They made it sound like this was normal. :confuse:

glazier768 · February 2007

Where can I find the knock sensor on a 97 Lgacy outback wagon with the 2.5?

tarapuss · February 2007

The rear window defroster on my 95 Legacy has stoppedd working. The mechanic says that according to the computer and his tests, it should be. But no, it doesn't.

Can anyone help. Thanks

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

You don't need a computer...just a simple test light at the rear defroster plug in. If the test light shows current to the back window, then it must be that the "defroster grid" is damaged.

tarapuss · February 2007

Thank you so much - I'll give this information to my mechanic. By the way, if the defroster grid is damaged, can it be replaced?

Mr_Shiftright · February 2007

Never tried it but this website claims that it works:

http://www.frostfighter.com/

tarapuss · February 2007

Thank you so much for your quick replies. I'll look into the frostfighter product and let you know the results.

xwesx · February 2007

Yep, I have the same thing on my '69 Chevy pickup. I am a little annoyed by it since it has 70K original miles, with all original clutch components. But, when I get to the point of finally deciding to replace the bearing, I will go ahead and replace the rest of the components as well. I will probably also tear apart the engine and replace all the gaskets, etc. But, you are one step ahead in that arena!

xwesx · February 2007

It is located on the top of the block, near the back of the engine, and slightly to the right side (driver side as you are looking at the engine from the front). It is somewhat tucked under the intake manifold, but is accessible without removal of any components.

jbbwv · February 2007

I have an 05 OBW that has an ongoing problem (this is the 3rd time) of the front windshield washer not working. The washer pump was replaced the first time. Second time the dealer said the washer fluid was "frozen", however they could not tell me why the rear washer worked fine if the fluid was "frozen". Now it is not working "again". I have checked the line going to the nozzles. They are clear. I can blow air back into the tank and using a small pump, pull fluid up to the connection at the hood. I am beginning to wonder if there is an electrical wiring or connector problem. This only happens when the temps drop below freezing for extended periods of time (the car is parked outside). I have an appointment Monday to have it checked again (I am taking it over Sunday afternoon so it can cold soak overnight at the dealership per their request), I also have a Subaru Case number so there will be some follow-up on the issue. Does anybody have any ideas for other areas I might look at.

TKS, John

jay_24 · February 2007

Can you hear the pump running? if you can,
I'll guess its frozen right at the nozzle. The tank and the lines have larger quatities of fluid in them and are probably OK. The nozzles sometimes gets water on and in them from the melting snow and ice.

Most blue washer fluid should be good down to at least -20. It didn't freeze in mine the past week and we had -18 in Minneapolis. However one nozzle froze. I held my thumb on it for about 20 seconds and thawed the ice of the top of the hole. It worked fine after that.

Subaru does need to use a stonger pump too. At 65 mph the fluid hardly makes it to my windshield, because of the wind.

jbbwv · February 2007

No, the front pump does NOT run. I have disconnected the line and pulled fluid through it and blown through the nozzles. There is something else wrong with the system. I'm still thinking wiring or a connector somewhere.

xwesx · February 2007

Seems to me that the newer cars (05+) have a different reservoir/location from the older models. I have an '07, but have not specifically looked for the reservoir or motors to see where/how they are set up with certainty (specifically pertaining to accessibility of the wiring to the pumps). But, on the older models, there were two separate pumps for front and back, with the pump for the front mounted lower on the reservoir than the rear pump, and the wiring was easily accessible if a "jiggle test" was in order. If you can reach the wiring, have someone actively attempt to spray the fluid while you hunt around in there, gently moving the wires/connector to see if it will illicit any response.

Have you disconnected the lines from the reservoir end and blown through the line while still attached to the nozzles? I agree that it does sound like a pump problem - I find it very rare when both front nozzles will freeze simultaneously. Sometimes at less than -20F temperatures I will see one nozzle stop and the other perhaps spray erratically, but usually it is just erratic spray from one and the other works fine.

jbbwv · February 2007

If the temp warms up Sat. as the weather man says, I am going to see if I can find a clear spot on the driveway (still have 3-6 in. of the white stuff on the ground here (WV)) and try the "jiggle test". I have blown through the lines from the fitting on the hood to the nozzles and they are clear. There is something else wrong with this system.

xwesx · February 2007

I was looking closer at the "new" location of the washer bottle yesterday and it looks like the pumps must be way down in there. I reached up from the bottom, around where the fog light is mounted, and thought I felt the bottom of the bottle and one of the pumps, so you can probably see it from underneath if you actually slide under there. I was just doing a blind reach and my hand was gloved.

Good luck.

jbbwv · February 2007

I was going to try the "jiggle test" yesterday, but it was way to windy and cold (18). I did get under the car and look to see if I could get to the pumps. Way to many covers and such to be messing with in the cold. It's now setting in front of the dealers shop so they can check it out in the AM. Maybe they find the REAL problem this time.

hermonland · February 2007

I recently had my battery die. When i replaced the battery, i connected the clamps on the battery and my parking lights came on w/out key in the ignition. also, dashboard lights flick on/off in time with a clicking sound (sounds like a clock ticking). I have to disconnect the battery in order for the lights to not drain the power after driving somewhere. Any thoughts on a fix? Or should i just go to a mechanic?

stevenm1 · February 2007

Is your parking light switch on? It is on top of the steering column below the speedometer assembly. If that was left on, the battery would have discharged.

ateixeira · February 2007

My '98 Forester does that.

Grab your keyless fob, and hit unlock/lock for a few cycles. That should stop it.

-juice

ludo1 · February 2007

Our 1995 outback has developed a problem where if the tranmission is engaged, either forward or reverse, the car feels as if the brakes are on when turning. It is particularly noticable when backing as we really have to accelerate to move the car.The moment the auto is moved into neutral the car rolls quite easily.The odd thing is that it moves normally when driven straight in either direction.Any ideas would be appreciated

paisan · February 2007

Doubtful it's a steering problem, however there are several things it could be.

Does it only happen when the steering wheel is fully turned one way or the other?

If Yes, then it could be the tires are too big and are rubbing when fully turned.

It could also be a CV-Joint problem although I doubt that as the trans should overpower that.

Could be a torque converter problem, but you don't mention any other slippage which would indicate a shifting or transmission problem.

-mike

lilengineerboy · February 2007

To me, it sounds like the differentials are locking when they shouldn't be. If the differential is locked, the wheels can't turn at different speeds like they would need to going around a curve (each wheel follows a different path so the outside wheels need to turn faster than the inside wheels). This makes it feel like there is bumping and grinding going on as the wheels fight to go the same speed.
You don't notice locked diffs driving in a straight line because all the wheels are traveling at very close to the same speed.
I'm not positive I'm right or anything, but from your description it sounds like a limited slip differential thats locked when it shouldn't be.

hermonland · February 2007

I will take a look at that, but that has never happened before. thanks for the thoughts.

hermonland · February 2007

my car does not have the keyless entry option. so it is a little different to figure out. the lights shut off when the ignition is turned off also. i will check the parking lights as well from the last suggestion.

paisan · February 2007

It could be that the diffy blew out. This happened on my friend's Frontier.

The LSD can't lock really as they are viscous coupled LSDs and wouldn't really be any tighter than they are set at. A broken diffy though could be acting like a locked diffy if they blew up the diffy.

-mike

runnerjohn67 · February 2007

Looking back through the postings, it looks like a lot of people have had trouble with water in the headliner from the sunroof leaking. Nobody posted any solutions for it, though, aside from taking it to the dealer. My wife needs her car, so leaving it at the dealer's to fix wasn't an option. I decided to tear into it, and found it wasn't that hard to do, taking maybe 60-90 minutes to do both sides. First, with the front door open, pull down the rubber strip by the window, from just below the dashboard in front to below the upper rear corner of the window. Carefully, pull the plastic trim strip away from the windshield post and roof of the car. It's held with metal clips, so you have to pull firmly but carefully. After you have undone the clips, remove the end from behind the dash, then you can unhook the end by the door post. Remove the screws holding both ends of the sun visor, then unplug the electrical connector and set the visor aside. Now, if you carefully pull the corner of the headliner down and look toward the sunroof, you'll see the clear plastic drain tubes and their associated drain nub on the sunroof. The tubes on ours had shrunk lengthwise, probably from being parked outside last summer in the heat, so they had come off the nubs. From this point, you can blow air through the tubes to make sure they are clear. To reattach them, I took a pair of pliers, grabbed the tube, and stretched it toward the sunroof a few times to lengthen it. Then, I worked the pliers back and forth in a twisting motion to work the tube back over the nub. Since the tubes had shrunk, they may work their way back off the nubs, but it isn't that hard to put them back on again. If they get to the point where they won't stay put, I would probably get some rubber tubing the right size to fit over the nubs, and put the other end down into the tube. Somewhere, the other end of the tube has to be attached to something, because you can't pull it up toward the sunroof, you have to stretch it. In any event, you're done, so you can reverse the steps to put everything back together again. A few words of note: This was done on a '97 Legacy wagon, with no side curtain air bag. If yours has one, I can't recommend trying this. Ours does not have the roof-mount center console, either. Also, pulling down the corners of the headliner will leave slight crease marks in it. I don't think my wife even noticed the ones in her car, as they are very slight. Besides, our car has 170,000 miles on it, so a few slight creases are the least of our worries.

xwesx · February 2007

Yes, it sounds like a bad differential to me, as well. Now, is it front, rear, or center?! In terms of cost and ease of replacement, I would hope for rear....

xwesx · February 2007

Thanks for the post, John. It is always helpful when people share a fix. I know there was a fella, perhaps 2 years back, who fixed the leak on is '01 Forrester, but while he did link to photos of the problem and fix, I am not sure he ever posted anything overly descriptive on the forum itself.

cope0021 · February 2007

OK. I have several issues with my 2000 Legacy GT. The problems started with an intermitant CEL. I checked the codes and P0447 Evap Vent Control Circuit Open and P0420 Cat Below Threshold. I let them be for a short time until I noticed my mileage start to decline and once my engine dieselded after filling up my car with gas (I assume this was because the cat was clogged and was causing the engine to heat up).

So, I replaced the cat myself and never got around to resolving the Evap issue. Meanwhile, whenever I fill my car up with gas, I have to push the accelerator a bit to get the car to turn over. This only happens when I fill up, and I never overfill.

Most recently, my car began to randomly lose power; almost as if there was a governor not letting it go above 60. It will lurch and sometimes pop (a misfire), but it quickly goes away.

I went in and retrieved the latest batch of codes. In addition to the two original codes, i now have:
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire
P0171 System Too Lean
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit malfunction (bank 1, sensor 1)

I did some research and it sounded like the ERG valve could cause the problems. However, it seems like the 2000 Legacy does not have an ERG valve. Someone also suggested that I try cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor.

I replaced my plugs and wires last spring. So if anyone has any help, I could sure use it. Also, why did the Cat code not clear out if I replaced it?

Thanks

Bill

paisan · February 2007

None of those are cat related codes. The misfires are due to the lean condition which is likely due to a bad or dirtly MAP of MAF. The O2 sensor being bad can contribute to this problem as well.

-Mike

hermonland · February 2007

Thanks, i did check the parking light, i forgot about that switch. it was on. however, even turning that off, now when the key is removed from the ignition, the parking lights still blink as well as the dashboard lights, in time with a clicking sound that sounds like it is coming from the the drivers side of the dash, different sounding than the signal lights.

any thoughts? i have it a shop now. thanks.

njjuliano · February 2007

After reading this thread:

http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f117262/0

it prompted me to check up on my most recent oil change. With the person doing the change not first knowing how to get my hood open, to actually cutting my hatch latch to the oil filter, I am wondering if the probability of him doing the same exact thing is fairly high.

I checked my oil first, and it is dark, and over full. Getting nervous, I checked the front diffy oil, (couldnt locate it initially with our sleet and ice), and see the level between low and full, but my car is on a downward slope. This oil is lighter.

I had the change a month ago, and have since driven 1013 miles. If the same mistake was taken, would the damage already have reared its head? Is it safe enough to drive to the place? Am I correct in assuming that the only way to add more oil to it is through that small opening where the dipstick lie?

Thanks.

paisan · February 2007

Yup, you use a long narrow funnel to get it in there. Gear oil is usually a yellowish color but is much thicker than motor oil. It can't hurt to drain/fill the front diffy fluid and get another oil change just to be on the safe side.

-mike

Subaru Legacy/Outback Wagons Maintenance & Repair

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