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Comments
thanks,
Maintenance milestones on the Echo are coolant, air filter, and plugs at 30K intervals, unless you have the platinum plugs as many Echos do, in which case plug interval is 60K. If you have an automatic, I believe the transmission fluid gets changed at 30K too, but I'm not sure. Mine is a stick, and my transmission oil change interval is 100K.
So, for me it's tire time. Tell me out there in Echoland: what tires are you running? I could get another set of Toyo Spectrums, the ones I have now did the full 65K they promised, but I'm also thinking of spending a bit more money for Michelin Harmonys, which are supposed to be quieter and give me 80K miles, in addition to better wet-road traction.
So do tell, what tires do you have on your car, and do you like them or hate them?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have done shocks before but not on the Echo and the process was not overly tough or complicated.
I like to deprive the dealership and aftermarket shops acces to my wallet as much as possible. I also enjoy doing the job myself and normally this results in the ability to buy higher quality parts and still save money.
Dave
1. Cleaned MAF with electrical cleaner.
2. Added gas treatment.
3. Ran fuel down to 1/4, then added gas from another station to dilute.
The car is running somewhat better, but not as good as it was 2 days ago. Any suggestions?
Sounds like its not a coincidence you got gas and then trouble.
If you find crap in the tank probably a good idea to change the fuel filter also located in the tank on the fuel pump.
Drained gas and refueled yesterday with complete gumout.
:confuse:
P0301
Book says:
open or short in engine wire
connector connection (i assume this means the sparkplug connector)
vacuum hose connection
ignition system
injector
fuel pressure
egr system
manifold pressure sensor
coolant temp sensor
valve clearance'
ECM
Have you had any work done lately on the car? If so look at what was done.
You can check the wiring as far as possible to the plugs and also the vacuum line around the engine. Pretty hard to do the rest of it. A garage that you trust may be necessary!
2000 with roughly 165,000 miles. Heavy use.
denis
BUT here in Alberta I think there are only one company that offers ethanol blends.. Mohawk. PetroCan, Esso, Shell and the whole bunch of no-name stations usually have only the "real" gasoline. I have no problem filling up my motorcycle.
/denis
I don't know what age of car is able to handle the blends better.... and of course there are the special F55(?) motors that are designed to take it.
I think my it is likely pre-ignition / vapour locks because of the ethanol etc. When it quits I have a spray bottle and have to spray down the fuel lines, injector lines etc and after 5 minutes I can drive another 10 minutes or so. If I can make it to a gas station and FILL UP with regular non-blended gas... the problem goes away. It's a pain in the butt, but a managed condition!
The first two cranks it turned over nicely but wouldn't fire... I didn't hold it for more than 4-5 seconds. The third time I held it an extra second or two and it started fine.
I drove it 8 miles on the 4 lane with no issues. Turned it off in the parking lot, started it up 2x in a row with no hesitation. Tested it two more times after church with no hesitation and drove it home.
I just tested it again now after the car sat in the driveway for 8 hrs and had the same issue - 3-4 seconds of hesitation and then it started up. I turned it off and tried it again with the same result. Tried it a third time pushing the gas pedal down... with gas pedal depressed it started instantly. Tested a 4th time with gas down and got the same result.
Any ideas? I'm pretty sure it's not battery or electrical. Read some stuff elsewhere that indicates it's some kind of fuel problem. I have a 300 mile drive scheduled for Tuesday so I'm a little nervous. Not sure I can get it into a mechanic tomorrow or not.
Also, spark plugs were changed last month and it has a new alternator belt. As I said, it doesn't act like a run down battery either... no flickering lights and it cranks well every time.
I wish I had saved the link, because I'm really curious if it's an issue with low fuel pressure at start. The symptoms described in what I read match my car's symptoms perfectly, but it didn't give any solution other than to hold the gas pedal down for a few seconds before start.
Have taken it to a trusted mechanic and given him a full history of how it was behaving and asked him to check it out thoroughly. I don't have the setup to do it myself. I'll let you guys know if it was anything weird.
Getting the radio out was surprisingly easy. Not having the car in front of me I'll try FOR MEMORY.
A rectangular front bezel popped off quite well with just slight finger pressure... I did this several times without any plastic breaking! Must attest to the Toyota quality...
There were three Philips bolts holding the radio in.
The first bolt was at the end of an obvious bracket extending at an angle down behind the ashtray. Careful with the cig lighter wire... it sort of just dangles there. I disconnected it and taped the end for the duration of the operation.
The other two bolts were above the radio on the left and right DEEP inside the crack with the top of the opening. A LONG dedicated philips screwdriver with a long shaft worked... the multiscrewdriver was too fat. Re-installng these two were more tricky... I cheated and magnetized the shaft of the screwdriver so the bolts stuck in place and I could carefully guide them into their deeply recessed holes. Other than that I replaced the physically damaged old tape deck in the 2000 Echo with a newer MP3/CD/AM/FM unit from a 2005 Celica and it plugged right in.
WOW... what a nice unit on the 6 way speakers. Unlike some of the other reports on this forum, I have not experienced any unexplainable great power drain from the unit. HOWEVER, if you crank it up to flesh-massaging vibration levels in only the Accessory mode (motor not running)... those six speakers really suck the energy. You'd better have a good battery or you'll be boosting it to get the car running... or if your lucky, to push it if you have a 5 speed.
/denis
The radio comes out easy pull out the two outer knobs for temp control and then remove the screw under each. Then pull out the whole panel. Remove the ashtray and remove two screws there and two screw above the radio then it pulls right out.
Good Luck!
fwiw!
-gary
Can anyone offer any clues to the cause of this problem? Is it the computer playing-up, is it sensors? Do I have to renew every part one by one??
It seems odd that a dealer would want to remove an engine based on a check engine light??? :surprise: Didn't they say more about this?
And the mechanic---there must have been a NUMBER attached to this message? What was that trouble code number?
If the scanner couldn't communicate with the ECM, it would have said so.
It might be that your problem is the repair shops you're going to, or a certain lack of communication between you and the mechanics.
But if you can gather more info, maybe we can come up with ideas on approaching the problem at hand.
air induction system
injector blockage
mass air flow meter
engine coolant temp sensor
fuel pressure
exhaust leak
open or short in heated oxy sensor bank 1 sensor 1
heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor1
Has anyone dealt with this error code and what did you find? Any hints on how to proceed or how to check each item for goodness?
Thanks!
Any feedback would be great thanks heaps :confuse: :sick: