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When I had my tire man change my tires over winter to summer I had him clean the area and spray on silicone lubricant (hoping to prevent sand etc. from sticking) and re balance, at present I have no vibrations at noted speeds. Will keep you posted.
Gaff
I dealt with Ron Copeland. He is very low pressure and he was patient with all my questions. He spent close to four hours with me.
Some on this board have mentioned that their salesmen have asked/pressured them to rate them all "excellents" on the customer satisfaction form. Ron only ask me to fill it out when I received it in the mail. He never mentioned how I should rate the buying experience. I'm going to give him all excellents because, IMO, he deserves them.
I specifically ask him if he would be willing to sell the HCW's to people on this board. He said he would. I didn't check all his prices but the 7/75K/0 is $695 and the 7/100K/0 is $895.
Call Ron Copeland at University Honda.
419-354-2222. If you want, tell him your from the Edmund's Odyssey board and David Carroll told you about him.
Following our 1989 Mazda MPV (175" in length) and 1993 Nissan Quest GXE (190"), the biggest difference is the SPACIOUSNESS of the Odyssey (201"). Other improvements and advances are in step with our growing children. The added horsepower (210 vs. 150), amenities (two power sliding-doors, CD player, hide-away third row seats, etc.), safety features (traction control, five-star crash ratings), and a fair price (MSRP) made it an easy decision. We didn't need leather (after-market is available) - instead, I had a set of water-resistant "Wet Okole" custom seat covers installed (seats, armrests, headrests). We go almost 20K miles/year (the Mazda went 77K in 4 yrs., the Quest 164K in 8 yrs.), so the standard 3/36K warranty is too short. Paid $895 for a 6/100K with zero deduct (GE).
Addendum: the morning after bringing it home, we decided to take some items (aluminum cans, glass bottles, plastic containers, newspapers) to the re-cycling bins. Oh, oh, don't want to put any of that stuff in the Odyssey. Should have waited another day as there would have not been any reservations about using the Quest to haul the junk. Ended up loading everything in the old 1987 Legend coupe.
Thanks.
Once the drain plug is removed, a stream of oil
will "shoot" out of the pan toward the rear of the
van. This stream will initially be 18" to 24" in
length, probably beyond where you might have put
your oil pan. I learned the hard way.
Steve
They happen to be a perfect match colorwise as the other similar interior is Quartz. Cost was $710 ($240/240/230) + tax, installed. Armrests (black) and headrests, gray(6) and black (1), included. What I saved me was time: it's normally a 3-4 week wait for custom orders.
For those who aren't aware, "okole" = rump.
By the way, my first two tanks got me 19.1 MPG in a pretty even mix of highway and around-town driving.
toward the rear of the vehicle. The oil being drained went well beyond the drain pan. Not at all easy
to contain if you're not expecting it to "shoot"
out of the engine oil pan.
By the way, the filter sits vertically on this engine which allows you to fill it with oil before
you install it. A feature the older Odysseys did not have (4 cyl. engines).
Had very little mess from the filter, nothing a single paper towel wouldn't clean up. Much better than changing the filter on a Toyota V-6.
I've now changed my oil 19 times on my Ody. I've never had a problem draining the oil from the drain plug and spilling it, but I always end up slopping a bunch around when removing the filter. And that's where the spots on the driveway are.
I never did that either until I worked at a shop where they were doing it with all the vehicles. It helps reduce the time it takes for the oil pump to fill everything back up when you first start the engine after the change. I'm not sure how much it helps in the long run but I figure every little bit adds up.
-Trevor
I put "Formula One" metalized film on my front side windows with a 50% AS 50 light blockage value. That is the best coating I found. Their next coating, at AS 35, when added to the 4% already there is a bit outside the limit, although a lot of people use that combination anyway. AS 35 blocks 52% of the heat. The Formula One AS 50 gives a heat blockage value of 40%(blocks 40% of the heat), UV rays of 99% and costs about $69 with tax for the two front side windows. It also is a fairly clear film to see through.
If you have a Honda dealer do it he uses the cheapest stuff and that AS 50 gives a heat blocking value of 27% and the AS 35 of 32%. So I would not have the dealer do it.
I was told that since there is no law for the other windows I could have the AS 50 added to the rest of the windows for an extra $200. They and you are not allowed to add anything to the front windshield.
Any advice on what the real situation with availability and how to best work the system (and get a van) would be appreciated. Thanks very much in advance!
Up here in Canada we are luckily able to obtain
Odysseys at quite a bit below MSRP but the MPV remains considerably cheaper. The overall amount depends on what payment option we go for
Any comments on what would be a reasonable differential between the two, in $US
THANKS!
This is a great car seat system.
I don't know how the current MPV compares to the 1989 one, but our 2001 Odyssey is superior in every aspect that I've seen so far.
Question for Ody owners - is the AC up to the task of keeping the van chilly in the summer months? I have a '93 Civic Si and don't even bother to use the dealer-installed AC because it's so weak. I imagine the Ody has factory-installed AC so it's a little hardier. Please let me know how your Ody's have been treating you, both up front and in the rear of the van. Thanks.
I can't believe I'm excited to be buying a MINIVAN!
Jim
I live in Huntington and had the same problem. Huntington Honda well over MSRP. Baron Honda $1400 over MSRP. Honda City $1000 over MSRP.
We read on the board that Hillside Honda in Queens was selling at MSRP. We went there and were treated great. They told us the car price was MSRP and there would be a 3 month wait. We put down a $500 deposit and 17 days later we drove our new LX out of the dealership. When we picked it up (March 25, 2001) there was no pressure to buy accessories just MSRP (LX=24300 + tax).
The dealer didn't say he was throwing anything in with the deal but when we looked around in the car, there was a luggage net and a bottle of touch up paint (I'm not sure if that's standard). Two weeks ago, a thank you package arrived from the dealership (Otis spunkmeyer cookies) thanking us for the purchase.
They weren't happy with accepting an eloan draft but did give me comparable financing from HSBC bank.
If you have any questions, you can contact me directly at humphreydog@msn.com.
Good Luck...JOHN
Regarding other items that I've read on the message board:
Getting around 18.5 - 19 mpg in town. Navigator system is worth it. Note that, for example, in Cincinnati, Ohio, I was suprised that the detailed map stopped well north of where suburbia continued. Guess the next update to the CD will include growth areas. Went with leather seats by Classic Soft Trim, 6 disc CD player, cargo tray and mud flaps, bought HCW 7/100,000. This is our 2nd Honda, first is a '94 Accord. Went with HCW mostly due to electrical components on Oddy.
My questions are:
1.) Is there a recommended time/mileage period for the valve adjustment?
2.) Does anyone do this periodically? (I have 93K on mine, and haven't done it yet.)
3.) What are the symptoms of needing a valve adjustment?
TIA!
http://www.honda-odyssey.com/images/members/tealphant/MVC00022.jpg
What do you think? They're available at autotoys.com
http://store.autotoys.com/cgi-bin/wfp53024.storefront/EN/Product/HONDAINDIGLOEMBLEM-4
in:
- red
- blue
- white
- grey
- yellow
also, DAVIDA5 and H2OGUY, with all this talk about TUCSON, ARIZONA, i'm beginning to feel homesick!
Talking about Tucson, AZ. My first auto accident, in over 25 years, occurred today in Tucson, AZ, with my Odyssey 2000 EX. A low speed parking lot accident. Bent in the bottom of the two doors on the passenger side. Car is still quite driveable. Did not hurt the glass.
Can somebody please inform me about this? Should I demand a new transmission at this point, or is it something that isn't serious enough to warrant that?
Thanks in advance for your help
Dave
cheers,
--james
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
GOOD LUCK!
Although Odyssey does do fleet sales, my guess is they are not very competitive in price. I was offered a 2000 Odyssey through fleet sales at MSRP, but with some options added for free.
So a number comparing non fleet sales would be a better number to compare the mini-vans with. I know that the Honda site lists monthly sales but I don't know if they break out fleet sales.
Also US government agencies and a number of American companies have a policy to buy only American vehicles. I see my postman is driving an American mini-van to deliver the US mail. Also a number of American consumers tend to buy only American vehicles. I use to buy only American until the Odyssey.
I think though that when you are comparing vehicles that you may want to buy, I would not place much weighting on how many are sold. That may not be a good indicator of how good the vehicle is. Instead I would look at a number of test reports for data. A number of consumers will not wait several months for a vehicle and will not pay MSRP.
That is how back when the Accord and Taurus were fighting it out for first place both of them actually claimed that they were the best selling car. Honda would have a small note in their ads that it was the best selling car to individuals. While the Taurus was a big seller to companies, which as pointed out really hurts the resale value when those companies sell off their fleet and buy new ones.
"Although Odyssey does do fleet sales"
I believe there are different types of 'fleet' sales. There is the ones that the rental car companies negotiate and then there are the fleet sales departments at the local dealers that generally deal with selling larger numbers of cars to local companies. Those are often times the ones that the special club deals like AAA put you in contact with.
-Trevor
Their are a couple of problems which occur occasionally with this transaxel: one is a loud bang or thud when moving in reverse--if you experience this you will know it--this failure results in prompt replacement of the whole assembly. The second is a rattle or shudder at about 50 MPH under gentle acceleration. There seems to be no standard explanation of this noise, and no catastrophic failures related to it... lot of dealers have tried a lot of things to fix it, usually with little success.
If I got any of this wrong, I'm sure our fellow owners will straighten me out... The above is just my recap of what I've read here: My 1999 has only the shifting clunk.
http://car-seat.org
Century also has a retrofit kit now available for its seats made since 9/97. I just got one, and haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I'll know more in a week or so.
Dave, the noise you've heard is due to the reverse selector trying to engage into counter-shaft reverse gear from counter-shaft 4th gear without some sort of synchronizer to ease the gear engagement. The reverse selector is moved by a hydraulic activated shift fork controlled by PCM when you move your shift lever. The reverse selector move only when you shift from D4 to R or R to D4; that is why you won't hear the clunk or thud when you shift from P to R or N to R because there is no shift-fork movement. When you shift from P to R to N, reverse selector stay in mess with counter-shaft reverse gear while parking pawl release and 4th clucth engage and then release. Now, if you then shift to D4 from N, the shift fork will move the reverse selector to engage counter-shaft 4th gear, 1st clutch also engage at the same time to provide the vehicle 1st gear in D4. Similar situation happen when you shift from D4 to N; there is no movement of shift-fork, hence reverse selector is still in mess with counter-shaft 4th gear while 1st clucth is released. if you then shift to R from N, you will hear a clunk caused by the movement of reverse selector. Notice all these occur when the vehicle is not moving. The WORSE thing you can do to a Honda automatic transaxle is moving the vehicle when shifting from D4 to R or vice versa. the counter-shaft assembly will be torn apart. Alway come to a COMPLETE STOP before shifting from D4 to R or R to D4; also,It is a good idea to wait for the feeling of gear engagement before steping on the gas pedal and taking off.
If you really love to shift from D4 to R while the van is moving, make sure your vehicle is traveling faster than 6miles/hr. Honda has implemented a fail-safe feature, called reverse inhibit, basically it sense the vehicle speed and instruct the PCM not to activate the shift fork. PLEASE... DON'T DO it, I am only kidding
Anyway, due to the internal design, replacing with a re-manufactured unit will most likely not going to silence the reverse engagement noise.
Happy driving.
I was in the same situation as you are (2001 EX w/ 965 miles), took it back to the dealer for a LOUD banging noise, at which point they replaced the tranny. Now, I still hear a thud, but not a bang, and sometimes I don't even hear or feel it. Still feel that the Ody is the best buy, it's practical and comes with all the essential equipment. I figure what good is luxury if you're stranded by the side of the road?
I'm sure we will find out that many of us owners have previously owned Honda's and know that they last.
Odyfan - Wow, that was a heck of write/type up, guess you're the official Ody tranny-man. Hope your wife doesn't find out!
Druce