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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I had a Chevy truck that had a similar problem that ended up being the (ball joints for the spindle). I changed them out as well as all ball joint in the steering system.
Or
Did you modify the height of the truck? If you modified the height of the truck the company you purchased the suspension equipment from should have informed you that you needed additional parts so the alignment can be corrected. AND Dependent upon how drastic you changed the height, you might never get if perfect. When I slammed my 1500 I made a fortune on the parts(Just about the entire factory suspension and cross members) when I took them to the autorecylers.
The change from 16" to 17" is no big deal and the dealer should have replaced the speedometer unit to the correct one with the purchase. (they have them usually in stock and are replace on the transmission side of the speedometer)(and only cost about $5). It is a little unit held in with one bolt usually and plugs the trucks harness into the other side. This fix you can do yourself and only takes 10 minutes and will correct the speedo and ABS problem.
I would appreciate any help anyone can give.
Thanks for the input.
My VW quiets down substantially when running premium diesel. I can hear it change tone while I'm pumping the good stuff in.
I am
Knaw, I was under the impression that all the Dodge gassers were fuel injected nowadays - I didn't even know you'd HAVE a carb. What engine do you have?
Regards,
Dusty
From your description this vibration appears to be intermittent. Is that correct?
There have been some vibration problems reported on newer RAMs and there have been a number of items that have been found to be the source. But in all of the reports that I can remember the vibration problem was consistently present from day one or became consistently present after time.
Tire, wheel, or drivetrain imbalance would not (likely, anyways...) be intermittent. I once was involved with a Ford Taurus that had an intermittent vibration like you are describing and it turned out to be a rear shock absorber that would intermittently freeze up. It was back to the dealer's about six times and to a few independent repair establishments before the shock was discovered to be the problem.
Best regards,
Dusty
Also, I am now thinking about upgrading to a cold air intake system (such as K&N). What other brands are recommended? Does this void the manufacturers warranty? Does this actually improve performance and most importantly gas mileage over the original equipment?
Thanks for your suggestions and comments.
Thanks,
Anthony
Just yesterday, I saw a Ram SRT w/Viper engine...looking under the rear, it had a rear anti-roll bar (or anti sway bar) which is not on the other models...does anyone know ifthe SRT chassis is the same as my 1500 quad cab short bed, and are the welded brackets the same...in other words, can I order the anti-roll bar and the attaching link kits, and will it simply bolt on the my rear housing and chassis and give me better handling on my truck? Thanks
Bob
I bought a 2004 Dodge 2500 HD H.O. Cummins Quad Cab 4x4 4 days ago. It is my first heavy duty diesel truck, and I have some questions: 1)Am I supposed to only get 12.7 M.P.G., or is something wrong?
2)From 1st to second gear, the truck seems to be overly searching for the right gear (back and forth, back and forth)
3)The tranny seems to "slip" a bit and when it does catch the gear it hits real hard, is this normal?
4) It takes like 10 minutes before I can feel any heat coming out of the vents, is this normal?
I would appreciate as much info from Dodge owners as possible!
Mike
Well I have had my truck for 2 months now, 2004 ram 1500 Hemi V8. I took my truck on a short trip about 120 miles worth of short. Driving to my destination it all went well. on my back it took me 3 hours to pass one highway check point, funny thing was as sson as I passed it I heard a beep like the beep you get when you leave your keys on the ignition but nothing light up on my instrument panel. 5 minutes later it started beeping again then the LAMP OUT would turn on and off then on and off and it wouldnt sound for about 20 minutes or so, then it would start again beep LAMP OUT on and off then off for a good 30 minutes. I stopped and checked all my light bulbs, headlamps, brake lights, doom lights ect, but they all seem to be working fine. Anybody have any ideas what it might be. I take care of my truck, I never step on it I really take care of it you could say I baby it. The engine runs great, temp gauges are all normal. The only thing I would complain about is the harsh shifting of the tranny thats about it. Any helps is appreciated, I dont want to take it to the dealer just yet but if I have to I will. Its under warrenty so it shouldnt cost me a thing. Could it be an electrical problem? Everything seems to be working fine except for the LAMP Out light truning on and off. Once Again any help will be appreciated.
Love the truck!! It rides great, it runs like a dream, but damn LAMP OUT Light and freaking beep. Should I be concerned? Thanks
2 and 3) Mine's a stick so can't help you there.
4) Yes, on a cold day that's normal - it takes that big mass of steel a long time to heat itself up, before it can start heating you up.
You really need to take a few fill-ups to get a baseline for the mpg. And unless you've put 1,000 miles or so on it in 4 days you have no clue what the mpg is or could be.
In general a higher numerical axle ratio will show a slight benefit with respect to fuel consumption in stop-and-go driving. This of course is still highly dependent on driver right-foot attitude. Going to a lower numerical ratio might make your stop-and-go city results a little worse.
Your reported fuel mileage at highway speeds is VERY respectable for the Hemi. I have heard other reports of the same, but many are less than that, too. It all depends on how you drive it.
The SRT rear sway bar may in fact fit without modification. I would suspect so. I have seen a couple of RAM 1500s with a rear sway bar. I have assumed, maybe incorrectly, that they were factory equipped. I'd consult your dealer's parts person and see if the pieces will fit. The only item that needs scrutiny is the rear axle housing. If the SRT has a smaller housing...which I doubt... then there might be a clearance problem installing it on your 1500. I would bet that they use the same size axle housing, however. If the SRT is a larger housing, then I would don't think there would be a problem at all.
Bests,
Dusty
Finally, a speed-sensor calibrator that restores proper signals to computer-controlled cars and trucks running larger (or smaller) diameter tires and/or nonstock axle gears: The Superlift TruSpeed.
The TruSpeed works with any electronic speedometer and hooks up in-line with the speed sensor located on the vehicle's transmission or transfer case. TruSpeed alters the speed signal at its source, so all speed-related vehicle systems - including the speedometer reading, ABS function, and transmission shift points - are corrected to work with any nonstock tire diameter.
Installation is a simple four-wire hookup, and comprehensive installation instructions make calibration an easy one-man operation. TruSpeed not only corrects the speedometer reading to within 1 percent, but it can also be recalibrated an infinite number of times if future gear ratio and/or tire changes are made to the vehicle.
In addition, the TruSpeed can be programmed for two different height settings for those who make seasonal tire changes or who frequently run two different-height sets of tires on the vehicle (i.e., "street" "show" or "race" tires). TruSpeed applications are available for all domestic and import trucks equipped with an electronic speedometer. Many applications are either already offered or are in development.
For more information call 800-551-4955, or visit www.superlift.com.
The whine you hear may be the transmission pump. They rarely make noise on Mopars, but I have heard a few. On GMs this means the pump is on the way out, but I was told once that's not the case on Mopars. The AT fluid could be low or there could be a restriction in the cooling lines, either clogged by dirt or kinked somewhere.
Unfortunately, this could also mean that your mechanic used Dexron-Mercon ATF instead of ATF+4. Using Dexron fluid will kill a Mopar transmission.
Good luck.
Regards,
Dusty
Took truck to dealer today and the problem would not repeat. They checked for computer updates. They felt the likely culprit is the oil pressure sensor and they changed it out (cost $122) and we hope it solves the problem. I run Mobil 1, 10w30 with last change just about 200 miles ago. Problem came up 100 miles after last oil change, but I could not yet find any evidence of bad filter or other problem so I assume for now this oil pressure problem occurance is coincidental.
Does anyone out there have experience with this problem. Thank you.
2 cosmetic questions: 1. I accidentally dripped some fuel onto the silver paint when pulling out the fuel nozzle...rubbed it quickly but slight stain remains...what can I do to remove the stain???
2. I want to wax the truck, by hand only, no buffing machines...I believe it has clearcoat paint, but I am not sure...what are your suggestions???...should I use a wax, like carnuba, or should I apply a polymer coat on top of the paint???...how should I prep the truck, just wash it at a car wash, or does it needs any rubbing with rubbing or polishing compound???...I do not wish to remove any paint, but it would be nice to add a super-shine that beaded water when it rained...your thoughts???
Bob
With regard to air filters, the only way one filter can pass more air than another similar sized one, is for it to have larger 'holes', thereby allowing larger particles through as well as more air. However, the only way that passing more air can benefit you is if the standard air filter is restricting the engine's demand. Do you have any reason to believe yours is?
PS You'll find some major discussions on replacement air filters here on Edmunds as well.
I've also felt that at one of the oiled filters promoted the demise of a MAF sensor, although that was on a diesel which seems to have more sensitive MAF's.
My Malfunction Indicator Light came on again just after having it in the shop for this problem.
Tech writes found code P0841 Indicating L/R pressure Switch Open...cleared code and road tested all OK.
Anyone have an Idea what this is....Owners manual states when Light stays Illuminated contact dealer ASAP could cause severe engine problems..
Take it back and ask them to fix the fault instead of just clearing the code.
Regards,
Dusty