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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    The only thing I can say about the oiled filters is this: I've had both K&N and Amsoil oiled foam filters and both had higher content of silicon (and higher wear metals as well) in oil sampling than before/after using the paper filter. While the results were still within spec, I find that more wear is bad regardless. If you're planning to keep the vehicle a long time, it may effect the longevity of the engine. I use paper, usually OEM air filters. There may be some cost savings with the oiled filters, but there's also the hassle of cleaning/oiling them. I've never noticed a performance difference, although the oiled filters seem to make the engine more noisy.


    I've also felt that at one of the oiled filters promoted the demise of a MAF sensor, although that was on a diesel which seems to have more sensitive MAF's.
  • psrampsram Posts: 7
    Now this is strange. I posted a message regarding the Light Out light comming on. Well THis is strange when I drive on the stree not going over 45 miles per hour the light doesnt light up. But when I am driving on the freeway it lights up and goes on beeping and lighting on and off a few times. Now my light bulbs are fine so could it be a sensor going bad or loose wire harness? thats my guess, but if anybody has had this problem before please let me know. Other than that the truck seems to be running great. Strange I might say!!
  • Your story is the same as several others I have heard. No one, to my knowledge, has found a complete fix for these vibrations. Stay on your dealer and write letters to the factory. Hopefully when Dodge finds the fix it will be a no cost repair. Good luck.
  • I recently bought this truck (came back to Chrysler) after bad experiences with the Dodge Intripid 2005.


    My Malfunction Indicator Light came on again just after having it in the shop for this problem.


    Tech writes found code P0841 Indicating L/R pressure Switch Open...cleared code and road tested all OK.


    Anyone have an Idea what this is....Owners manual states when Light stays Illuminated contact dealer ASAP could cause severe engine problems..
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Unless a new fault occurred, it's likely that the original fault recurred.


    Take it back and ask them to fix the fault instead of just clearing the code.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My fault diagnostic trouble code (DTC) list must be out-of-date. It doesn't list a P0841.



  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance
  • Had a problem with my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 with 15,000 kms. After driving thru a puddle or going thru carwash, 4WD (electronic shift) would kick in on its own. No way to clear problem unless I shut down engine and restarted. Chrysler engineering said they had never heard of such a problem in the past. Took dealer most of day to track down problem but did find a cable above transmission had been rubbing on drive shaft and exposed bare wire. Whenever it got wet, would short out and kick in 4x4. Passing this on in case anyone else has a similar problem.
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    Had a noise i've been hearing for a while.When the truck sits over nite when I start it up everything is fine .After I drive about 2 miles when the temp starts to come up and stop at a light I could hear a slight ticking knocking noise coming from the engine area.When it gets up to runing temp I never hear it again.Took it to a mechanic he scaned it everything was good .The problem ended up to be the clutch fan had gone out.Replaced it and its fine now. Thought I would pass everyone.
  • I own an 04 ram hemi, performed and handled very well for about 1 year.The computer burned up along with 2 ignition coils and a few fuses.The selling dealer got it running again, but is definately a lot slower and performs very poorly since.The truck also shifts up into O/D and is very difficult to downshift,climbing a slight incline the engine will struggle instead of downshifting, you have to push the throttle almost to the floor to shift down.The throttle was definatly more sensitive before.I brought it back and complained, they said the diagnostic computer read everything OK, brought it to another dealer and the asst. service manager drove it and agreed there were problems.Again, nothing was done because the diagnostic computer said everything checked out.Before the problem occured, I could easily smoke the tires if I wanted to, now it is very embarrasing to even say there is a V8 under the hood,let alone a HEMI. I believe dodge updated the program which detunes my truck to avoid further damage to the weak drivetrain.I have driven other identical trucks, and the problem definately is there in my truck. I have been told by the dealers that the only other thing I can do is have a factory Rep. drive my truck, only then can any further work be done.Anybody else have the same problem or any insight on what else I can do?Is there anything I can do? Aftermarket programming, or throttle position sensors, or possibly as one technician hinted to me that I might find a computer that has not been updated and install that.Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • cujocujo Posts: 1
    gary i have the same problem. vibrates at 60 to 75. drive line vibration. dealer says that they are suppose to be like that. not true. not all have it . the problem is front drive shaft and angle the front axle has to be adjusted up 4 degrees. if you move it it will go away but your tires will wear. they do not have a fix for it yet. i went to 1 800 lemon law . i want out and will buy another without vibration. good luck. you should get lemon law started
  • Please provide additional information on this lemon law. I have the same problem, love the truck but hate the vibration issue. If there is a way to replace the vehicle without taking a huge financail hit I would like to know about it.
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    I have 72k on this engine.I change the oil every 5k with full syn.This time of the year when I look in the oil fill tube and see all that sludge and goop in there would it be better for this type of engine to change more often? Can this engine hold up to 5k oil changes without a engine flush or a sludge problem with high miles?I know people have 4.7's with more miles than mine how are they holding up ? thanks
  • So any idea what this means...I have driven for over a week like this and have not noticed a difference in performance
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Oil sludge is formed when the motor oil accumulates moisture. Moisture is normally purged as the engine is run for a period at operating temperature. Engines that do not get a moderate amount of drive time at full operating temperature will suffer from oil sludging problem. Short trip driving, especially in the winter time, will accelerate this condition.


    You may be seeing a sludge build up just below the oil fill cap but that does not mean the inside of the engine looks the same way. On the 4.7 motor the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is placed just below the fill opening. The oil fill assembly is plastic and does not conduct heat well.


    As the engine is run the PCV valve pulls warm, moist air from inside the engine to this plastic oil fill assembly. In winter the temperature of this plastic assembly is cold enough that the moisture in the crankcase air condenses inside the fill assembly. With a combination of oil vapors the moisture turns the oil in this area to a sludgy form.


    I've never seen a 4.7 apart so I cannot provide absolute testimony, but I suspect that there is little to no accumulation of sludge in most other areas of the engine.


    On mine I do get a small amount over the course of the winter, but it easily cleans up in the spring with a little carburetor cleaner and/or the wipe of a clean cloth. If you're getting more than that then I suspect the engine is not getting a good hot run in your daily commuting.


    I run 0W-30 Mobil 1. Regardless of the miles on the oil, I change just before winter and as soon as possible in the spring for the reason of sludge. For me this usually means about 4500 miles of driving, maybe a little more. Mine does not exhibit any signs of sludging at the oil assembly during the warmer months.


    So far, with the exception of the visual signs of sludging around the plastic oil fill assembly, I know of no report of more serious sludging or engine problems associated with sludging on the 4.7.


    I hope this helps.


    Best regards,

  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    Dusty thanks for the information .
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    my wife's 2004 Ram 1500 5.7L...I have converted over to Castrol 5W-30 Synthetic Oil, and I intend to change it every 5K miles, as in 5K, 10K, 15K and so currently has 1700 miles on truck, and she will probably put on no more than 1000 miles per month...that means that I will, assumedly, be changing her oil every 5 months...I know that with "real" oil, they always said 3000 miles or 3 months, because of the oil breaking down...will synthetic oil allow me to go 5 months, or should I change it every 3 months like in the "days of yore"...more info, she drives only 7 miles to work, city running only, but at least once weekly it runs at 70-75 mph for about an that hi-speed running sufficient to prevent water buildup and or sludge buildup???
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    IMHO, with that type of driving you're probably more than covered at 5k mile intervals. 5k miles on conventional oil is more the norm these days, although with that much city driving I would recommend something like 4k miles on conventional, maybe 7k miles on synthetic. You might go 6k/6 months and make it real simple!


    I think you're more than covered either way. My VW has a recommended service interval of 10k miles when running synthetic. I've had the oil tested at 12k miles and it is still very clean, but I generally try to change it between 10k-12k miles. I could probably go 20k miles based on the testing, but would need a filter change prior to that. Plus I'm about 90% highway in that car. Most filters need replaced between 10k-15k miles regardless.
  • The front end is disengaging but the front driveline won't quit spinning. When 4wd isn't engaged it makes a clicking noise. Needless to say our fuel economy has dropped from 17-19 mpg to 13-14 mpg. Has anyone else experienced this and how can we fix it? Thanks
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    One-thousand miles per month is average and with a synthetic you should be able to go 7500 miles at least before you might be breaking down the oil. The caveat is the climatic conditions and driving style. During the winter months in the snow belt you might consider a more frequent change due to the possibility of moisture and gum build-up from short trip driving.


    I've gone 9000 miles on my 4.7 Dakota with Mobil 1, which included a oil filter change at a approximately 4500 mile interval. The oil color change was less than moderate during that 9000 mile oil change. This was in summer months.


    The problem with longer oil change intervals on synthetic is that regardless how many miles can be driven with the oil still in the relatively close protection range, it still gets dirty and contaminated with moisture, acids, and other elements that cannot be filtered by the engine oil filter. That's why I change more frequently based on climate and/or driving pattern.


    To answer your other question about the 70-75 mph run once a week purging moisture out of the oil, it's hard to tell. It depends on how much moisture has been collected by the oil. High-speed operation for that duration will generate enough heat to evaporate the moisture, in my opinion, but it won't convert sludge back into oil. (That's assuming that the radiator thermostat is regulating the correct operating temperature, of course.)


    I would suggest checking the engine oil over time to determine if there is any appreciable amount of sludge build up.


    Best regards,

  • 04 1500 ram 2wd 4.7 auto5spd 50k driving Los Angeles 2 Panama


    In Mexico they only have 10-40 oil. no such thing as 5-30 or 10-30. Due to the hot weather, over 70f all the time, they use 20-50w to 40w. Ouch! Driving from Los Angeles 2 Cancun with a jet ski then on the way to Panama, will 10-40w be okay if i change it at 2k miles????? Mexican gas is bad too. So what other stuff should i change or do more frequently? Doing trans&filter at 20k intervals. Should i change the fuel filter or insert one in the engine befor the pump?


    Cleaned my KN air filter at 50k with only 20k miles on it. Changing oil every 2k and oil filter at every other 2k.
  • roper2roper2 Posts: 61
    I am hearing a noise and can't find the problem.Last week had a mechanic check it,he ran scanner looking for codes and said everything looked good.What it's doing is when it cools down and I start it everything is quiet and smooth no tickuntil the temp gets to the first mark on the temp guage at idle .When it reaches the normal running temp the tick goes away.The only place I can hear it is sitting in the drivers seat.Listen outside over or under the engine it sounds good.Seems like it does it only when ideling.Any ideas what may be causing this?thanks
  • When i went from 245x70x16 to 265x70x17 wheels, the Gps told me my miles was .0578 off. in other words, i was traveling almost 6% more. Somewhere here someone said i must get my computer reprogramed due to the bigger tires-rims. is this true.....


    been averaging almost 20mpg in usa freeway driving but in Mexico it´s been about 16-17mph highway and about 14mpg city-mixed. Mexican gas is bad. plus they sell you 9liters for the price of 10 at some gas stations. should i put a 2nd fuel filter between the tank and engine....


    oh, steam cleaning the engine does not make the wire system go nuts. in Mexico, i had the engine steamed cleaned and the entire under side too for $12, includes degreaser, hand scrubbing and steam. Total polish and interior cleaning was $10 with camper shell. Wow, Mexico is cheap for services.


    Costa Rica autos sell for 130% more than Panama, so that is where i will sell my dodge and jet ski, after reaching Panama city. Example is small nissan is $10,000 in Panama and in Costa Rica, same car is $23,500. That´s a big percent difference. LET´S SEE IF I CAN GET MY STICKER PRICE OF $27,800 IN COSTA RICA.


    will 10-40 oil mess up my miles on this 4.7 motor or is it okay in 70 to 100 degree weather.....
  • psrampsram Posts: 7
    Well Greetings too all


    Well I travel alot to mexico, and while I agree that gas is really of bad grade what i would recommend is what I do, buy the highest grade of gas possible, and while most will have water in it I recommend you buy some Chevron Techron gas treatments to add to the gas. Believe it or not this will help your engine run alot cleaner and help elimanite any gunk that the gas might have. I also recommend you take an extra case of engine oil, with the different climates you will be entering you will need the right grade. At least that is what I do when I take my truck on long trips and I know I wont be able to get my hand on the right oil. Peace of mind is what I call it, it might be a hassle in the beginning but it is well worth the pain. Other than that you shouldnt have that much of a problem, I take my F-250 which has a 5.4 triton engine and so far no problems. I just bought the Dodge recently and I love the horse power!! But any how I hope I helped
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    >>>will 10-40 oil mess up my miles on this 4.7 motor or is it okay in 70 to 100 degree weather.....


    Chrysler does not recommend the use of 10W-40 motor oils in any of it's engines. This formula is the most chemically unstable motor oil on the market. Although probably okay when used in more consistently stable higher temperatures, I would highly recommend that it be changed within 4000 miles. I would recommend against it's use as an "all-weather" motor oil, especially in climates where the temperatures range into freezing or below part of the year.


    For the 4.7 motor 5W-30 is recommended to 100 degrees F ambient. If prolonged use is anticipated at 100 F, 10W-30, 15W-40 would be far better choices. I'm not sure how many miles you plan on driving, but a good synthetic 5W-30 should be more than sufficient for 7500 miles or more under the temperature conditions you describe.


    Best regards,

  • 1990 Dodge Ramcharger, 5.2L, A-518 auto, 3.55 gears. The original transmission crapped out around 49k, replaced under warranty and went about another 200k on that one. Odometer broke at 186k about five years ago. Still original engine, only replaced the water pump, valve cover gaskets, EGR sensors, and ignition parts and plug wires frequently. Good WAR HORSE.


    2004 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab, CTD, 48RE auto, 3.73 gears. 13k so far. Only problem was the horn went off on a Saturday morning in the garage. The wire was pinched in the steering column support. Dealer knew about that and fixed it. 19 MPG average so far. I hope this truck lasts as long or longer than the old one. It cost twice as much as the old one, but has twice the power and torque.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    On your 1990 A-518, depending on the year of the transmission rebuild, you probably got the A-518-3 upgrade. This included a number component changes and revisions that increased the fluid flow, especially to the overdrive unit.


    Is the '04 RAM a Hemi or a diesel? Your 19 MPG average is above average for the 5.7 Hemi.



  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    Dusty, thanks for your help in this forum - it's highly appreciated. If I could interject on behalf of Mr. Hemi - he did put CTD in his description, which would make it a Cummins Turbo Diesel. Guess his name would've had to come from some other vehicle!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Ion, thanks for the reply. Yeah, that's why I asked the question. Nineteen as an average on the 5.7 Hemi is tremendous. I've heard some peak at that MPG, but not average.



  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    My understanding is that the biggest disappointment about the Hemi is the poor mileage. It's why I got a CTD - I regularly get 16mpg with a lead foot, 4x4, high camper, and stop and go city driving. When I get on the highway (and keep it under 70) I regularly get 20mpg. If I had a Hemi with all my issues, I'd be getting single digit mileage.
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