Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

jdaines · May 2005

I have a 1999 Ram 2500. I recently tried to transfer towing of a 24 foot cargo bumper pull trailer from my 97 Chevy to the Ram. While traveling on the freeway with the trailer empty I can't go over 55 miles per hour without experiencing significant sway with the trailer at the slightest wind. To the point where while going 65 a semi passed me and almost put me into a tail spin. I have had the hitch level checked and it is perfect. I have towed this particular trailer for the last 2 years, with other vehicles, without a single problem at highway speeds up to 75 mph empty and fully loaded. It does seem to be less of a problem when the trailer is fully loaded, however, It still does not feel right even at full capacity. It feels almost as if riding on ice.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

dennis10 · May 2005

Have a 2000 dodge 2500 diesel with 70k miles.Recently began to run like it was on only one cylinder.I shut off the engine,then restarted it,and it ran fine for awhile.Then the problem came back again, in shorter intervals.Now after two days,the engine will not start at all.Could this be fuel pump related?Any ideas?

mrbill · May 2005

Not a suspension mechanic here so before I bring my 04 Ram 1500 (Hemi) to the dealer, I am looking for information. recently noticed a "popping" sound from front drivers side suspension at low speed on bumps in the road. Popping as in something loose as I hit a bump. Shadetree mechanic inspection only found drivers side endlink from the swaybar has vertical slop, and I can recreate the popping sound by hand simply by pushing up and down on the sway bar from underneath. Seems like the rod is loose in the joint where it meets the frame (not the upper end where it connects to the swaybar). passenger side tight.. no vertical movement. This seems relatively minor, no other complaints on the rig.. but obviously I do want it tightened back up.
Now the question - can I tighten/adjust this rod or is it best left to dealer/warranty work? if simple I will try it, otherwise I am planning on an appt next week, since thats what a warranty is for anyway.
Thanks for any replies on this,
Ahasher

bryanusmc92 · May 2005

My 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 has been shaking at highway speeds. It is not the tires as I had the old set balanced, then a new set I had recently mounted and also had other rims temporarily mounted. The truck still shakes. (So it's not the tires or rims.) The front end and steering wheel are pretty much solid and do not shake at all. I had 2 mechanics look at it the U joints are solid and the Ball joints are tight. The drive shaft is also solid. Could it be the tranny or rear end? The tranny seems ok and shifts without problems.I have also been hearing a woo woo woo sound @ around 30mph when I take my foot off the gas and coast you can really hear it. However there is no shake or vibration at that speed. Anyone have any ideas?

kennethm1 · May 2005

i bought a base model (4x2 construction crew model i refer to it as) and it had what i assumed was a console. when i went to open it after the purchase (duh) i discovered it was simply a big square arm rest. i called to see about getting a console that would actually open up and was told the console and labor would be around $725 dollars. was wondering if anyone had any suggestions other than the friggin tupperware box i am using to store my things in. also, is there anyone out there that has the V6 that could report on the fuel consumption in the city and on the highway. if you would kindly refrain from reminding me how stupid i was for not having checked the console issue out prior to signing the deal that would be appreciated. i have already beat myself up enough lololol. it is the 05 regular cab with that black cloth interior should anyone have something in mind.

iowabigguy · May 2005

Watch Ebay, they periodically have 40/20/40 high end seats for sale, some reasonably priced. Rick

bryanusmc92 · May 2005

Did you get a price for one without labor? If your handy, try looking at doing the install yourself. You could call around to some custom Van or auto places and see if they can either take the armrest you have and convert it or have them custom build you one. You could also call around to some junk yards and look to see if there are any totaled RAM 1500's sometimes they will part out vehicles that have been totaled by insurance companies. I would'nt have the dealership do it as they always charge an arm and a leg. Good luck, Bryan

ajg · May 2005

I have a RAM 1500, 1997, 5.2, 100,000+ miles. My radiator has started leaking, and when I call round a few places looking for a quote to fix it, I'm being told that a radiator is more or less a disposable part and that I need to get a new one. It doesn't feel very disposable at over $400! Is my radiator really not fixable? Any tips on what I can do to make a repair and not have to pay for a new radiator to be installed?

dustyk · May 2005

Try AutoZone or other auto parts places. Often times a new core will be cheaper than you will pay for a repair. Of course, this assumes you'll do the work yourself.

Good luck,
Dusty

neojock · May 2005

Hello Sir,
I am having the same problem with my 03 Ram 1500. A whistling noise is coming from underneath the truck. This has been happpening for close to three months now. The dealership does not know what it is...any ideas? Vacuum leak? The noise only occurs when I accerlate, it is very annoying.

What is the play in the clutch fan?

Tony

neojock · May 2005

I hear a whistling noise in my 2003 Dodge Ram 1500, standard transmission. Some people say it could be an air leak. it is driving me crazy, and it feels like I have lost some power in my truck, maybe it is just in my head cause I think it is an air leak.

The noise only happens when i am accelerating, it is loud, and it is driving me crazy.

Can annyone help me? Vacuum leak?

What is the play in the clutch fan?

HELP!

dodgeman1 · May 2005

I am also having this same problem with my 1999 1500 and I am really lost on what the problem is? Any ideals will be helpful.

dodgeman1 · May 2005

Thanks for this information! This is the best lead I have had in my NO BUS problem yet!

rfrd189 · May 2005

Driving to work my brake and ABS light appeared on the dash. At the same time my speedometer went to zero. I heard no noise or felt any problem. I tested my brakes. I traveled on to work and called my dealer first thing that morning. He suggested for service to check out the problem. The brake and ABS light was attributed to the ABS magnetic sensor ring in the rear end disintegrating. My truck only has 43,200 miles. Estimate cost for the rear end repair is $1800.00 this is hard to swallow since I have been an avid owner of GM trucks. How extensive is this problem? The problem with the speedometer is a sensor, or so they tell me. I would appreciate any info or help on this. Is there any warranty help on this matter? What is the warranty for a 2002?

njobe · May 2005

my 2004 Quad Cab 1500 definately has a mind of it's own. The steering has gone out on me 5 times in 15,000 miles. Last time it happened going about 55. I have to stop turn my car off and then on again. I have brought it to dodge twice. They replaced the steering column but they said that wasn't the problem. They can't figure out the problem, so they told me to just come grab my truck. Since they can't dublicate the problem there is no problem. I refuse to pick up my truck becasue I feel it is unsafe to drive, if anyone has any solutions that would be helpful

cpasquali · May 2005

I have a 2005 dodge puick up which had new heads placed on it at 6000 miles. Dodge requested the dealership do the work. They said there was an improper fit between the valve stem and guide. The engine is just as noisy after the work was performed and the dealership stated that a service bulletin was issued for this problem. My only words to you is DO NOT purchase the truck with 05 hemi engine. Dodge doesn't stand behind what they sell.

fxdl2003 · May 2005

this has just happened to me. I have a 2003 1500 4X4. I too have noticed the lamp out coming on and off with the chime. It also chimes for no apparent reason w/o the lamp out light coming on. I too would like to know why this is so and if anyone has a solution to the problem

eldenej · May 2005

About a year ago, my '96 1500 started exhibiting a transmission shifting problem when the truck was initially started each day; that is, it shifted from second into third only at engine speeds above 2500 rpm. The colder the day, the longer it refuses to make the shift. It is getting progressively worse; today I drove for nearly a mile before the shift occurred. Once the engine/transmission are warm, however, all is normal, with shifts taking place around 1900 rpm. I've had the truck into the local Dodge dealer, who both acknowledges the problem and admits to having no clue regarding a solution except: "We need to open up the transmission and see what is going on." Estimated cost: "$2600." !! Before I let those guys go on a fishing expedition, I'd like very much to know if anyone out there can shed light on this disappointing development. The truck still seems nearly new, having been driven just over 50,000.

KCRam · May 2005

Before they do an "exploratory", have them do a simple leak check. My 96 3500 began hard shifting and losing trans fluid but I never had parking-space spots. Turned out the cooling lines (between the trans and rad/aux cooler) were the culprits, and fluid only flows through them when the vehicle is running. Replaced the lines (not cheap, but not 26 C-notes either) and shifting problem solved.

kcram - Pickups Host

vbrown · May 2005

Strange My 1999 Ram 1500 4X4 Did The Same Thing.Both Lights Are On And the Speedo Works After you Atain 25 Miles Per Hour. Did You Get Yours Fixed And How Thanks Vic Brown

bigsexyram1500 · May 2005

I have a '99 Ram 1500 that I bought with 37,500 miles on the clock. It's a typical Dodge: track bar replaced when I bought it; steering box replaced at 44,000; still wanders all over the road like a Yugo in a tornado. Overall, I'm happy with the truck, but I'm wondering if anyone else out there has had trouble with the tail lights? Right after I bought the truck, the driver's side rear tail lamp blew, so I replaced it and everything was fine. Now, at 45,00 miles, it's not working again, but the bulb isn't blown. I replaced the bulb anyway, but it still does not work. The brake light/turn signal works fine, but the running lamp is doing nothing. Someone at work told me that these trucks use some type of circuit board to control the lighting and that this could be my problem. I've never heard of this, but that's not to say he's wrong. Either way, I need it fixed. Can anyone help?

Also, I have a question about the tranny (big surprise). The stock 318 is a total slug and when I use the O/D, it kills what's left of my power. Am I doing harm by not using the O/D? The only time I can stand to use the O/D is on level roads and there aren't any of those around here. As soon as I get into a climb of any grade, it drops down into passing gear and at 12.5 mpg, I'm not willing to give up much more to lack of power. So I end up driving everywhere without O/D and it seems fine. Plenty of power, responsive and not lugging. Any comments?

psram · May 2005

Regarding the Light Out and chime, I also have the same problem. When I took it in to the dealer, they said it was a bulb. Which they replaced and it was all good for a bout 2, 000 miles, then the chime started again, I figure it has to be some type of wire that is lose and when there is a certian type of vibration that causes the light to chime, for I looked at the bulbs and they are all working fine. Some one on this forum stated it could be the bulb holder that melted on the rear tail lights, but took those off and they are fine. So your guess is as good as mine. It is annoying though. Other than that my truck works fine.

One question though, I use Mobil 1 and I am wondering how long do you have to wait to change it. I mean the oil itself seems to be in one color off brown, meaning not too dark and not too light. I have put about 5 thousand miles on it, should I change it. My brother was telling me I should wait till it reachs 7-9 thousand miles before I should change it. Any thoughts are appreciated.

dwest1 · May 2005

I had the same problem with my 2001 ram. The dealer replaced the gas cap and the problem went away. Try putting on a new gas cap. It sounds odd but thats what the dealer did on my truck.

dwest1 · May 2005

I had my 5.9L tranny fluid changed last week. I never had a single problem with it. Right after it was changed I have a shutter in it or something. I have 42000 miles. Not sure what is going to happen next.

dustyk · May 2005

This is the classic symptom of having the incorrect automatic transmission fluid installed!!

After 2001 all Dodge truck transmissions must use ATF+4 (not ATF+3). I'm suspicious that Dexron-Mercon was used instead. Don't wait to resolve this. Continued driving on the wrong fluid will end up with a transmission failure.

Good luck,
Dusty

dwest1 · May 2005

I did bring it back to the dealer right away when I noticed the problem. They had overfilled it. I agree that it might be the wrong fluid.

mac24 · May 2005

This is the classic symptom of having the incorrect automatic transmission fluid installed!!

You beat me to it! Such a common problem. You must have it flushed with ATF+4, not just drained and refilled. Treat this very seriously.

dustyk · May 2005

Yes, and after all these years I still hear reports of Dexron-Mercon being installed into Chrysler products. I wish I could say I hear less today than I did ten years ago, but it's not the case.

I will say that one local independent has a sign visibly displayed at their shop advising people of the special fluid for Mopars.

Best regards,
Dusty

ginac · May 2005

Ours is a 1999 1500/360 60,000miles
What did you find out...I do not see any answers to your issues. We have the same issue and are absolutely baffled! Both of our most excellent mechanics can find nothing wrong. I drive this van with 4 kids in it and we love it. When this happens though...it freaks us out. It is completely arbitrary. May happen one day and then not for 3 weeks. May happen two days in a row. It usually starts again within 15 minutes but last time it took overnight. We are deperate for answers. Happens when driving 40 mph or sitting at a stoplight. Have you discovered any answers?????

ginac · May 2005

Did you find out any information?
We have a 1999 ram 1500 w/60,000 miles. Runs great but dies periodically without warning. Will restart after 10-15 minutes. Not fuel pump issue, our mechanics can find nothing wrong. May happen one day and then not again for 2 weeks. We are baffled as well and desperate for answers.

ginac · May 2005

What did you find out?
We are having similar issues and it is freakin' us out! Also 1999 Ram 1500 - has 60,000 miles. It runs great - but may just up and die at any time...while driving 50 mph or stopped for a train...we never know. May happen one day and then not again for two weeks. Both of our stellar mechanics can find nothing wrong. Fuel pump is good, has been replaced, engine tuned, well maintained. It rund great except for this issue. Any info you have would be so appreciated!

ginac · May 2005

I wonder if Dusty might have some insight for us as well. In reading through this message board, I have noticed that Dusty has some very detailed responses.

I am wondering about the Ram 1500 cutting off. I saw your initial response to a similar question noting that the problem could be the fuel pressure regulator, timing chain, PCM problem. Both of our most stellar mechanics can find nothing and the fuel pump is fine. You mentioned an inlet strainer - would that be something a mechanic would check automatically when looking at the fuel pump?

We have a 1999 with 60,000 miles. It runs great but loses power arbitrarily...could be driving 50 mph, could be sitting at a light. It may happen once that week or not for a month. It is unpredictable. It typically start right up after waiting 5-10 minutes.

I am interested in the NO BUS conversation I saw. We do not get this as our odometer is not digital - but it makes me wonder about the computer related issues. We do not want to get screwed by a dealer on the costs of fixing this problem but would like to appear educated on this possibility.

Do you - or anyone- have any insights?

ginac · May 2005

I have a little insight, I crashed my Ram 1500 into a light pole while trying to get the last spoonful of my DQ Blizzard last summer. The air bag never deployed and my head ended up bumping the steering wheel and you can imagine the rest of my Blizzard was all over the dashboard.

The van was just not right after that. It would cut out everytime I turned left onto a new street that had lightpoles similar to the one I hit. Stupid van dying out forced me to stop eating while driving cause I had to be ready to harness that sucker when all power cut out.

My mechanic said he thought the van was afraid of lightpoles and that's why it cut out. Hope this helps out.

Dan
Florida

ndaley · May 2005

Some Mopar trannys will not shift into overdrive until the engine reaches operating temp. My 98 Grand Cherokee manual indicates this. My truck doesn't get into cold enough temp to test this out. May depend upon the transmission. Unless it is a problem and you like to spend money, I would just leave it alone.

ndaley · May 2005

I had a similar problem, but it would not start occasionally. After 4 days at the dealer, they replaced a ASD Relay that was failing intermittently..It took that long for it to fail for them. I told them I didn't want it back until it was fixed.

Now I've got a new one. Check Engine light is on as well as "oil can" indicator light. Oil pressure is fine, getting a 12 ,14 & 15 code. With all these things at once I suspect the computer. :-( any ideas??

aaf32461 · May 2005

this has been an on going problem for me , dealers and mechanics cant find a solution , no codes come up , all that happens is when accelerated it stalls starts up fine runs rough , any ideas, i dont want to start "throwing parts in" as a process of elimination. thanks tony

partsman2k · May 2005

Well, I think ive just about heard it all. Anything from the rear end jumping up and down to the rear fenders on a dually sliding down when the sun hits them. WHAT KIND OF DRUGS ARE THESE PEOPLE ON? and they dont understand why the dealer cant fix the problem. DUH! but enough of that I do have a problem with a 99 ram I purchased about a month ago. I have read some letters from people with simular problems. Sometimes when im driving down the road my gauges will quit and all my warning lights will come on. then maybe 10 seconds later it will correct itself and sometimes it wont. I have it at the dealer where I bought it now, he seems to think its the iginition switch but he installed a new on with no luck. now he says he got a bad switch and is going to order another one. I think hes swimming in the wrong pond. can anyone that has had this problem corrected help me???

yukonkixbutt · May 2005

2005 quad SLT 2wd
I've got a couple of creases on my right rear door I'd like to remove
1) how hard is it to access the metal by removing the interior door assembly?
2) are those paintless dent repair kits worth trying?

Thanks for any tips.

mugsaway · May 2005

I recently purchased a gauge faceplate for my '99 ram. I have been looking on the dash but haven't found any screws that holds it on. I'm I to assume it just snaps on and if so do the snaps break easily?

Has anyone every replaced their factory gauge faceplate with an after market one. I purchased the reverse glow (white face during the day, black face with lit up gauges during the night) for something different to look at. Is this a pain in the neck to switch out? Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx,

TO

2fs2ns · May 2005

My '98 just did the same thing today, only that my speedometer is working fine. Just the ABS light and the parking brake lights are lit up. I don't feel or hear any draggin/grinding/ect. Have you learned any more about this problem?

PS: this is a '98 2500 w/cummins diesel and Dana 80 rear end.

dustyk · May 2005

The inlet fuel strainer is in the fuel tank. It can be checked, but it requires removal of the fuel pump.

There are a number of things that could be causing your problem. It would be nice to know if this vehicle is producing a trouble code or illuminating a "Check Engine" lamp.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk · May 2005

Look for some screws just above the clear gauge bezel. If not, it probably is held on by clips. Got to be careful, though. I'd pay a visit to your local Dodge dealer and ask to see the service manual for your year truck. Most times the parts counter people are knowledgeable and very helpful about imparting that kind of knowledge.

Good luck,
Dusty

sn2bedogehater · May 2005

Not on the same subject but couldnt find new thread. I am brand new here, I purchased a 99 ram 1500 club cab from one of the companies I work for besides the price I new the truck and also new they had just put a brand new computer in it ( it has 144,000 miles on it) That was a nice selling point considering the cost of putting a computer in one of those! Anyways I only drove the truck about 1000 miles and it quit on me at about 40 mph, and through a code "no bus" I figured it was the computer and called the dodge dealer and they confirmed my suspisions and said to bring it in as the computer they put in carried a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty! WOOHOO! They found the PCM bad and figured it must have been defective and warrantied it out. anyways I got the truck back and about 650 miles later it did it to me again! same thing driving down the road and just quits, and by the way unlike some other I have talked to my truck will not start again no matter how long it sits. so back to the dealer it went this time they reimbursed me for the tow. So I got the truck back today after they had it a week and tested every harness, wire, and plug, and were confident that we just got another defective computer so they replaced it and warrantied it out....Well guess what? 24.2 miles later it did it again and less that 2 hours after I got it back it was on a hook and on its way back to the dealer I hadnt even gotten home yet to call chrysler for my first tow reimbursment! 3 bad computers in less that a month? any ideas? driving me crazy and hence the screen name "soon to be dodge hater" Thanks for any help!!

ndaley · May 2005

I've used one of those kits on regular dents with decent results. It will not work sharp creases though. It can only pull them out so far.

kwarren2 · May 2005

If I were working on one of my electronic assemblies and I kept blowing a CPU I would check to see how well the input voltage was being regulated and then perhaps if the damage were happening on an I/O line (other spurious voltage) through some post mortem testing. Unfortunately, I do not know a thing about how the computer in a vehicle is isolated and what kind of protection it has in its black box. Dusty, perhaps you know or have access to this sort of information?

rhendrix · May 2005

Hi, we have the same problem...have you gotten any response from Dodge? My understanding is that they are not responding and I am ready to take this further. Please respond

Rocio

lyonsinistar · May 2005

All,

Have a problem that hopefully someone can help me out with. Here recently for some reason the air flow when the air conditioner is turned blows very little out of the vents and seems to come out the floor more than anything. Just curious if anyone might have some insight as to where I might start to troubleshoot this problem. The sound of the air conditioner when turned on sounds the same as it always has but just no real air flow coming from the vents. For those that live down here in the south know how hot it gets and summer is just about on top of us and would like to get it taken care of. Any and all help is appreciated.
:confuse:

dean52 · May 2005

I HAVE A 2001 RAM,30,000 MILES. MY GAUGES JUST DIED TOO. NO BUS CODES WHERE ODOMETER IS. LOW FUEL , SERVICE ENGINE, AIR BAG , ABS LIGHTS COME ON. O/D BUTTON WORKS BUT NO LIGHT. TALKED TO DEALER THEY SAID LOOSE WIRE, IGNITION SWITCH, PCM WHICH IS WARRANTED FOR 8 YEARS AS AN EMMISSION WARRANTY THEY SAY. BODY MODULE ( $300) OR DASH CIRCUIT BOARD ( $500-$600). AFRAID TO GET IT CHECKED IF THERE GOING TOO TAKE ME FOR UP TO $600-$800 POSSIBLY. ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS ON THIS PROBLEM?

KCRam · May 2005

First thing to check is the ductowrk for clogging debris. Both the outside cowl intake at the base of the windshield and the interior air return on the passenger-side of the floor under the dash are notorious for sucking in debris. On my 96, I was regularly pulling leaves from the dash vents. This will also cause your evaporator to fail if it gets clogged as well - repairwise, that is an all-day plane crash that you don't want to deal with if you can avoid it.

kcram - Pickups Host

lyonsinistar · May 2005

Thanks kcram I will check on that this evening and see what I can find. I will let you know the results and post it here in case it could possibly help anyone in the future.

Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions