In trucks Chrysler makes all of their own engines except for the Cummins Diesel.
In cars, with two exceptions, the engines are either all Chrysler or Chrysler-Mitsubishi joint venture. In the late '70s Chrysler used a Volkswagen 1.7 in the Omni/Horizon/024/Charger/Turismo for a couple of years. The Mitsi 2.6 four cylinder was used in mini-vans for a while, too.
You don't say if your or a Dodge dealer did the last repair, but I have been told that the Chrysler gasket set, as opposed to aftermarket, is generally the permanent fix.
Generally.
If not installed correctly, the repair won't last. Great care must be used in getting the gasket surfaces clean and installing the gasket just as instructed in the service manual. Since the new replacement gaskets are improved, when done correctly the repair should last indefinitely.
Hi Folk's, I'm looking for a take off Pickup Bed in excelent condition in Patriot Blue, Long Bed. Can you gave me any idea where too look. I found a white one for $1500. He said he hold it when I call back it was gone. It cost about $1000 to get one painted in my color. I look under Truck Bodies and Junk Yard. I had a dead tree fall across the black of my bed. Robert
I own a 03 ram 2500, had same promble, told dealer about but could not fix until check engine light came on. This never happen, until it completly died on be driving 55mph. Computer failed. Good luck
Did the dealer ever find out what caused computer to fail. If you have any insight it would be great help. They won't touch mine until the light comes on at this point I just want the nightmare to end. I mean it's agrivating as well as qeustionable you never know when to expect it to stall or bogg down or what ever is next to happen. Thanks for help you can give
Does anyone have problems with the shifter on the column? When the indicator in the dash shows that the transmission is in Park it will slip into Reverse or when the indicator in the dash shows that the transmission is in Drive it will sometimes be in Neutral. I have owned this truck for less than a month and it almost ran over my son last night and nearly tore the door off the passenger side by hitting a parked car, causing serious body damage.
Dusty, Thanks for the reply. A Dodge Dealer did the last repair. That was about 3 years ago. I have not put much mileage on the truck over the past three years since the repair. I pretty much use the truck for hauling wood and home repairs. Do you know if Dodge was using the improved gasket 3 years ago? Thanks, Lee
I am very sorry, but I'm not sure. I think three years ago was after they realized that the original gasket needed improving. Then again, if that's true yours should have had the newer gasket on it from the factory.
Could be that yours was repaired just before the new gasket.
Of course, even if they used the newer one it doesn't mean that it was installed correctly, sorry to say.
I've got the 6-speed, 3.72 gears (I think that's the number - not the 4.something gears), and I do have the HO engine. I'm getting about the same mileage as I did with my old Acura Integra - which ought to tell you that I've got a bit of a lead foot. There's something about that big Cummins engine that makes going fast a lot of fun - like having my own personal Saturn V rocket booster in the bed.
I have a 03 Ram 1500 QC SB w/6300 mi. At about 5K+ I had a total black out of headlights and dashlights (don't know if taillights were involved). Only lasted a second. Also noticed when dome switch set to "bright" on odometer/clock/gear position, these lights flashed from bright to dim, back and forth at random. Fiddled with domelite wheel, couldn't make it happen. Watched to see if it had to do with rough road, nothing happened. It had a mind of it's own. @ almost 6K total blackout happened again, and again. Took it in for 6K ck up and oil change. They replaced the headlight switch. On my way home, odometer/clock/gear position, was doing same thing. Less than one week from switch being replaced, "TOTAL DARKNESS" again. This time lights blacking out seemed to be linked to depressing brake pedal getting ready to shift from park to reverse. But then seconds later, just driving, lights blacked out again. Taking back in to dealer on Wednesday. Just wanted to know if anyone with an 03 had these problems? Saw that some 02 had some dash light blackouts earlier. Thanks for any info.
I have a weird problem with my 2003 Ram 1500 Quad Cab. When I first turn on my headlights the drivers side headlight does not come on. It doesn't matter if it is set for lo beam or high beam. If I turn the headlight switch to parking lights and back to headlights it comes on. If I use the hi beam dimmer to flash the headlights the drivers headlight will also come on this way, without touching the headlight switch. Once the light comes on it will work fine until I have stopped for several hours or parked overnight. It has never gone out while driving. I got to looking thru a shop manual and found there is a computer under the battery called something like "The Front End Controller". When you turn on the headlights all you really do is put a ground on one of the inputs to this computer. The computer is what actually applies the voltage to turn on the headlights. This computer also takes care of dimming the interior lights and many other light and timer functions. You could have a gremlin it this computer on your truck as well. I've been by the dealer three times to show them the problem but it never happens once the truck has warmed up and driven a while. I'll leave it at the dealer one of these days if I have another problem but it is only a nuisance right now and I really don't want to give the truck up for what I'm sure will be a couple of days for them to find the problem. Rick
It could also be a bad ground/loose wires/or a connector issue. Also have heard of the instrument cluster going bad.
With the key off, push and hold the odometer/reset button in. Turn the key to on (don't go to start). Watch the gauges do a self check and see if you get a 00 00 display at the end. This does a self check of the instrument cluster. Steve
I have a 94 dodge 1/2 ton with the 318 eng.After approx. 30,000 miles it started to lose oil pressure at high speed.I took it to the dealer and they replaced the sending unit.Over a period of time this was done 3 times.Continued to have oil pressure problems.3 oil pumps later the engine quit.Took it to the dealer,the inside of the engine was completely stopped up with what looked like charcoal.This took place at 150,000 miles so Dodge wouldn't help with the overhaul. There had to be sand in the engine from the factory which was in Mexaco City.The reason I say this is at 2000 miles I changed out the gear lube in the rear end and got a double hand full of sand out of the rear end.This truck has had AmsOil lubricants in it since the first oil change including the transmission,so I know it wasn't an oil related problem.After a complete engine overhaul at around 150,000 by an independant I had a blackout on the instrument panel.The dealer had to replace the complete wiring harness around $2000.Truck now has 179,000 with no problems
Hey, 02ramman, (Steve), I did the instrument panel check. It ended with the 00 00, but before that it said C Code. Does that mean anything? I did read someone else having, I think an 02, with the inst. cluster gone bad. Hey, iowabigguy, (Rick), thanks for the info. too. I'll keep that in mind about the Front End Controller. I hope my dealer is smart enough they can fix this without my help! Thanks again.
I forgot to add that part! C-code is standard. Yours is saying (with the 00 00)That there has not been a problem that has been identified in the last one-hundred cycles of the key. The first -- is for the code and the second -- is how many key cycles ago that it occured. So yours is saying no codes in the last one hundred cycles. Also, with most chrysler products, taking the key form off,on,off,on,off and back to on (without going to start) will display any powertrain control Module (PCM) codes. Good luck, I'm dealing with my own "christine" with my 03!! Steve
I have read most of the posts relating to transmission problems, but none of them describe what my pu does. It normally happens once it shifts into overdrive. I have a 1998, 1500 quad cab, 73,000 miles. I bought it used about 1 1/2 years ago. Everything was fine up until about 6-7 months ago. I, occasionally, pull a horse trailer with it, but always take it out of OD. Once it goes into overdrive, the tach starts jumping up and down and you can hear the engine rev up and then drop again. No lights have come on on the dash, and no codes have been picked up with a computer scan. I have had several suggestions as to what the problem could be, from a bad sensor for the overdrive, slipping transmission, or a fuel pump. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks
Yes, I agree with emale. At 73,000 it's time for a complete tranny flush. You should use ATF+4. You SHOULD NOT use Dexron/Mercon.
You probably have a 46RE. Another common problem are the electrical connections at the transmission. These are prone to corrosion at the electrical terminals on older units.
Believe it or not, I think we just fixed a similar problem with a good friends '98 RAM 1500 that was producing almost the same symptom. His was cured by replacing the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and distributor cap. I'm not kidding. High voltage arcing can cause the PCM or other vehicle computers to go a little crazy.
There may be a torque converter lockup sensor/switch arrangement in your rig. Dodge may be different, but my Chevy exhibited similar symptoms and replacing of the switch corrected it. Mine was very subtle. I only noticed it around town when I could hold speed between 45 to 55.
Would appreciate any comments on the durability and ability of the 48RE when used for towing a 12,000lb 5th wheel. I'm trying to make up my mind between the six speed manual and the 48RE with the HO diesel in a 3500. I'm concerned up downhill speed control without adding aftermarket stuff. Thanks
Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that my 03 Ram has been at the dealer for a whole week! They finally let me know that they were TOLD to replace the "Body Control Module" which is a part of the "Instrument Cluster". So now they are waiting on a part from the company. Anytime now, they say! Thank goodness for loaner cars. I miss my truck though! I'll let you know if it works!
Well, I've had about 500 pounds on my Dakota's tailgate so far. Not causing damage to the tailgate is a tribute to the designers, but breaking the cables from two humans is a tribute to the bean counters.
1998 ram 1500 extend cab. The other day I lost all gauges on the dash. They don't move. Everything else works great; lights, radio, environmental...just cant see how fast I'm going, how much fuel I have, temp, pressure or tach. The odometer just flashes and doesn't count the current miles I'm putting on it. I checked all the fuses, dash and under the hood, and disconnected the battery for a couple of hours to "reset the computer" I was told. Any idea?
There may be as many as three fuses that supply power to the instrument cluster. How does the odometer digits illuminate? As all 8s?
If that's the case I suspect you have lost a ground (or return) circuit or something is wrong on the cluster itself.
I'm not sure you're getting any free miles, though. Just a guess, but I would wager that the distance sensor is still giving pulses to the ECM. that's where the mileage count is actually stored. The odometer reading on the cluster is driven from the ECM.
The odometer flashes the mileage where it was just prior to "breaking", 103282 miles. it just sits there and flashing on and off. In the dash box there is a cluster A and B fuse, and I have checked both of those repeatidly. I imagine that once this issue gets resolved, the actual mileage will replace the 103282 it currently flashes...at least I hope so, otherwise how do we trust the vehicles we by used?
I have a 1991 dodge ram 50 with mitzi 2.4 it has 212k on it. I bought with 202k up till now it has been running great, however the last time I tried to drive it it will hardly run, I mean it starts well and idles well but wont take the gas when I excellerate. I thinking that the converter is stopped up. any other susgestions?? THANKS..
You might be on the right track with the Cat. Try dropping the exhaust at the manifold and see how she runs. If you have access to and exhaust pressure tester, you can remove the O/2 sensor and check the backpressure there. Should be under 4 lbs.
A 1999 Ram 3500 V10 auto, 4x4, anything I should know? We had an 02 Ram 2500 V10 auto and loved it, great truck. We also had an 01 Ram 2500 V8 auto that was the world's largest pain in the keester.
The truck we are buying has 11,300 miles on it.
I just don't want another fiasco like the 94 Chevy K3500 6.5L TD that we have now, major money pit that never stops, kinda like a big black hole that we throw money into.
Well, the biggest thing to know about is that you almost have to have a fuel truck driving around with you to keep that thirsty v10 happy - but you already know that! As the owner of a Cummins 2500, I think the v8 is (for most people) not powerful enough for the Heavy Duty trucks - I hope that's why your old truck was a boil on your bottom! I am curious as to why a 4-year old truck only has 11,300 miles on it though - I had that in the first 6 months with my Cummins and I don't even drive a lot! Make sure you Carfax that truck before you drop the hammer on it!
If you can get up under your truck with a rubber mallet, bang the cat (not too hard) a few times. If it sounds like it's full of loose rocks, it's fallen apart inside and may indeed be jammed up. Easier than dropping the exhaust, which you can still do afterwards if it sounds solid.
Dropped the hammer, picked the truck up today. Apparently the story behind it is it was passed around through people who bought it because it was *pretty*, its never worked a day in its life. Its never towed anything and its never hauled anything in the bed. Everything checked out, miles are true.
The truck is perfect, looks and smells brand new. Only things noticed about it on the 300 mile drive home was the transmission is fussy at certain speeds, there is a rattle under the cab at idle, and the truck is a wanderer. Other than those few things the truck is perfect, got 11.5 mpg in stop and go traffic in 4WD.
We loved our other V10 and I'm sure this one will be no different, bought a warranty with it too. Now if we can just find a sucker, err, someone to buy our 6.5L TD Chevy K3500 we will be doing good.
Any one experience the following scenario? When outside air temp is below 65 degrees and you start the vehicle, the Alt/Voltmeter gauge stays below 14, interior and exterior lights go bright and then dim, for up to 3 minutes. During this time there is an audible "Clunking" noise coming from the right front engine compartment. After the 2-3 minutes, the Alt/Volt gauge goes past the 14, the lights stay bright and the clunking noise goes away. Had the truck in Monday (11/10/03) for repair and they said they had to adjust the computer irt the starting/charging circuit. Today, outside morning air at 63 degrees and had problem again.
Has anyone had the problem of water condensing inside the engine and mixing with the oil. I am told this was a problem with the 4.7L engine and that Dodge had fixed it. Apparentely not. It is not radiator leakage or the head gasket. Any solutions? The truck goes back to the dealer in a couple days and I hope to have some knowledge when I go in. Any help appreciated. This is an 2002 ram 1500.
You've got my truck! Well, almost - mine's a Laramie '03. Either way, the dimming is almost certainly the grid heaters heating up. They're basically big toasters that heat up incoming air so that all that cold diesel fuel fires up more readily. They probably shouldn't be working above about 50 degrees, and they definitely shouldn't be clunking. Also, I don't think they should be going for 2 - 3 minutes, certainly not in that high a temperature. Mine don't even dim the lights, so I think you've got something wrong in whatever it is that fires them off - they aren't fixed yet.
The Grid Heaters you talk about, I believe, go out after the "coil-looking" icon goes off on the dash. The problem I'm talking about is after the engine is started. Maybe the Grid Heaters are trying to re=heat after the engine has started, but then why would the "coil-looking" icon on the dash not come on and why is the alternator not charging? I called the Dealer couple of hours ago and the writer said the Shop Foreman has been trying to duplicate. I'll probably have to leave the truck overnight and be there in the am when they turn the key.
Well, we are learning new stuff all the time. Couldn't figure out why the 99 Ram 3500 V10 we bought last night was wandering all over the road and had so much play in the steering wheel. Asked the Dodge dealer and they said the steering stabalizer was probably shot. Got home, my little brother (he works on our vehicles sometimes, good mechanic) climbed under it to look....you can see where it *used* to be, somebody took it off.
Called the Ford dealer where we bought the truck (used of course) and told them, they cut us a check for the parts and my brother will fix it for us. Strange, but explains why the truck is such a handful. Didn't notice the problem during the test drive, only when we were headed home.
I do not believe this is a characteristic problem of the 287 (4.7) motor and this is the first report I have heard of such a thing.
I called my Dodge tech a little while ago and he said that such a problem is not inherent in the 4.7 or could he remember any problems associated with this symptom or a necessary factory correction.
A small amount of condensation does form on the bottom side of the oil fill cap on my 4.7 during the winter months. But it is not any worse than any of our other cars and most certainly better than our Avalon, which does really suffer from this.
Short trip driving over a long period can cause this, as well as extended oil changes, a clogged PCV valve, or a bad thermostat that prevents the engine from coming up to full operating temperature. Any combination of the above can cause rapid and serious moisture build up and severe sludging.
When I did automobile repair we would occasionally see a truck come in with a partially frozen steering stabilizer and a number of times I have seen them removed for this. This would usually be on four-wheel drives. On some trucks the effects of a missing stabilizer wouldn't be greatly noticed until you hit some bad bumps or potholes.
The grid heater continues to cycle for three full minutes (this is mentioned in your owner's manual) - the wait-to-start light is only asking you to allow the grid to preheat the air before you crank the engine, but the air is still too cold for complete combustion, so the heater continued to operate. Considering the new common-rail 24v is much quieter than my 1996 12-valve, you will hear the "clunking" of the system cycling on and off - no different than the AC compressor when it cycles. The only thing that will stop the heater prior to 3 minutes is driving the truck, as the engine load will increase the cylinder temps to where the grid isn't needed.
Hi, KC! I haven't heard my grid heaters yet, so I dunno about any clunking - but why would his be running at all above 50 degrees? I usually drive immediately after startup, so I might be missing some part of the Ram experience, but I think he's still got something wrong.
I left the truck all night at the shop. They gave me a loaner, 03 reg cab with a hemi. Boy, is this fun to drive. Will have to wait to see what shop foreman says later today. But, from the posts here and on the DodgeTalk.com forum it looks like the Grid Heater comes on when the temp is below 66 degrees, and cycles for up to 150 seconds (3 minutes). The Clunking is the Grid Heater cycling on and off and the lights dimming and getting brighter, along with amp meter below 14 volts is considered normal. At least that's what the Owner's Manual is suppose to say. I'll have to check it out further.
Anyone running Amsoil 15-40w synthetic oil and Amsoil filer in the Cummins? I would like to hear from owners (Pro's and con's), not AMSOIL dealers. Any problems associated with AMSOIL?
'02 Ram Quad SLT, 4.7L, 5M (This has happened 4 times now in 19 months) Start the truck. Turn on the stereo. No sound. Press "mode" and go to the CD changer. Have sound, but no bass and no real power. No matter how many times I flip between radio and cd, never get radio. Can hear the speakers humming when turning up the volume when in radio. Can even turn off the radio and still hear the speakers. Dealer has said in the past "cannot reproduce problem". Of course, that's why it's called random. Wondering if this has anything to do with the TSB 08-004-03. Also, have been getting random chimes with no indicator lights. Obviously, there's a short somewhere. Occasionally, I can turn off the engine, turn the key backwards and turn on the radio (like everyone else). The issue is that sometimes the clock or station does not show. I can giggle the key a little bit and will be radio lights. Wondering if the problems described above have to do with the key portion of the ignition.
>>Occasionally, I can turn off the engine, turn the key backwards and turn on the radio... The issue is that sometimes the clock or station does not show. I can giggle the key a little bit and will be radio lights. Wondering if the problems described above have to do with the key portion of the ignition.<<
Could be since you seem to get a reaction when you manipulate the ignition switch.
As with most vehicles nowadays, Chrysler radios have two power feeds. One for the radio itself and another for the display in the radio unit. The radio display gets its power through the lamp circuit. This is to facilitate varying the intensity of the radio display light output with the rest of the instrument panel lamps. The radio itself is fed from another circuit.
I don't know if I can help you a lot beyond that. My Dodge Dakota manual is my only reference at the moment. Although the radios are the same between RAM and Dakota, the instrument wiring may be different.
Comments
In trucks Chrysler makes all of their own engines except for the Cummins Diesel.
In cars, with two exceptions, the engines are either all Chrysler or Chrysler-Mitsubishi joint venture. In the late '70s Chrysler used a Volkswagen 1.7 in the Omni/Horizon/024/Charger/Turismo for a couple of years. The Mitsi 2.6 four cylinder was used in mini-vans for a while, too.
Regards,
Dusty
Yeah, I've heard stories just like yours.
You don't say if your or a Dodge dealer did the last repair, but I have been told that the Chrysler gasket set, as opposed to aftermarket, is generally the permanent fix.
Generally.
If not installed correctly, the repair won't last. Great care must be used in getting the gasket surfaces clean and installing the gasket just as instructed in the service manual. Since the new replacement gaskets are improved, when done correctly the repair should last indefinitely.
Best regards,
Dusty
I'm looking for a take off Pickup Bed in excelent condition in Patriot Blue, Long Bed.
Can you gave me any idea where too look.
I found a white one for $1500. He said he hold
it when I call back it was gone. It cost about $1000 to get one painted in my color.
I look under Truck Bodies and Junk Yard.
I had a dead tree fall across the black of my bed.
Robert
regards,
Dusty
I have owned this truck for less than a month and it almost ran over my son last night and nearly tore the door off the passenger side by hitting a parked car, causing serious body damage.
Thanks for the reply. A Dodge Dealer did the last repair. That was about 3 years ago. I have not put much mileage on the truck over the past three years since the repair. I pretty much use the truck for hauling wood and home repairs. Do you know if Dodge was using the improved gasket 3 years ago?
Thanks,
Lee
Could be that yours was repaired just before the new gasket.
Of course, even if they used the newer one it doesn't mean that it was installed correctly, sorry to say.
Best of luck,
Dusty
With the key off, push and hold the odometer/reset button in. Turn the key to on (don't go to start). Watch the gauges do a self check and see if you get a 00 00 display at the end. This does a self check of the instrument cluster.
Steve
miles so Dodge wouldn't help with the overhaul.
There had to be sand in the engine from the factory which was in Mexaco City.The reason I say this is at 2000 miles I changed out the gear lube in the rear end and got a double hand full of sand
out of the rear end.This truck has had AmsOil lubricants in it since the first oil change including the transmission,so I know it wasn't an oil related problem.After a complete engine overhaul at around 150,000 by an independant I had a blackout on the instrument panel.The dealer had to replace the complete wiring harness around $2000.Truck now has 179,000 with no problems
Also, with most chrysler products, taking the key form off,on,off,on,off and back to on (without going to start) will display any powertrain control Module (PCM) codes.
Good luck, I'm dealing with my own "christine" with my 03!!
Steve
Thanks
have you had the tranny fluid changed recently? if not it might be time...
almost sounds like the torque converter clutch is locking/unlocking abnormally...?
You probably have a 46RE. Another common problem are the electrical connections at the transmission. These are prone to corrosion at the electrical terminals on older units.
Believe it or not, I think we just fixed a similar problem with a good friends '98 RAM 1500 that was producing almost the same symptom. His was cured by replacing the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and distributor cap. I'm not kidding. High voltage arcing can cause the PCM or other vehicle computers to go a little crazy.
Best of luck,
Dusty
Dodge may be different, but my Chevy exhibited similar symptoms and replacing of the switch corrected it.
Mine was very subtle. I only noticed it around town when I could hold speed between 45 to 55.
Thanks
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
The other day I lost all gauges on the dash. They don't move. Everything else works great; lights, radio, environmental...just cant see how fast I'm going, how much fuel I have, temp, pressure or tach. The odometer just flashes and doesn't count the current miles I'm putting on it.
I checked all the fuses, dash and under the hood, and disconnected the battery for a couple of hours to "reset the computer" I was told.
Any idea?
If that's the case I suspect you have lost a ground (or return) circuit or something is wrong on the cluster itself.
I'm not sure you're getting any free miles, though. Just a guess, but I would wager that the distance sensor is still giving pulses to the ECM. that's where the mileage count is actually stored. The odometer reading on the cluster is driven from the ECM.
Regards,
Dusty
In the dash box there is a cluster A and B fuse, and I have checked both of those repeatidly.
I imagine that once this issue gets resolved, the actual mileage will replace the 103282 it currently flashes...at least I hope so, otherwise how do we trust the vehicles we by used?
has 212k on it. I bought with 202k up till now
it has been running great, however the last time
I tried to drive it it will hardly run, I mean
it starts well and idles well but wont take the
gas when I excellerate. I thinking that the converter is stopped up. any other susgestions??
THANKS..
The truck we are buying has 11,300 miles on it.
I just don't want another fiasco like the 94 Chevy K3500 6.5L TD that we have now, major money pit that never stops, kinda like a big black hole that we throw money into.
Thanks.
As the owner of a Cummins 2500, I think the v8 is (for most people) not powerful enough for the Heavy Duty trucks - I hope that's why your old truck was a boil on your bottom!
I am curious as to why a 4-year old truck only has 11,300 miles on it though - I had that in the first 6 months with my Cummins and I don't even drive a lot! Make sure you Carfax that truck before you drop the hammer on it!
The truck is perfect, looks and smells brand new. Only things noticed about it on the 300 mile drive home was the transmission is fussy at certain speeds, there is a rattle under the cab at idle, and the truck is a wanderer. Other than those few things the truck is perfect, got 11.5 mpg in stop and go traffic in 4WD.
We loved our other V10 and I'm sure this one will be no different, bought a warranty with it too. Now if we can just find a sucker, err, someone to buy our 6.5L TD Chevy K3500 we will be doing good.
When outside air temp is below 65 degrees and you start the vehicle, the Alt/Voltmeter gauge stays below 14, interior and exterior lights go bright and then dim, for up to 3 minutes. During this time there is an audible "Clunking" noise coming from the right front engine compartment. After the 2-3 minutes, the Alt/Volt gauge goes past the 14, the lights stay bright and the clunking noise goes away.
Had the truck in Monday (11/10/03) for repair and they said they had to adjust the computer irt the starting/charging circuit. Today, outside morning air at 63 degrees and had problem again.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Called the Ford dealer where we bought the truck (used of course) and told them, they cut us a check for the parts and my brother will fix it for us. Strange, but explains why the truck is such a handful. Didn't notice the problem during the test drive, only when we were headed home.
No biggie, dealer is making it right.
I called my Dodge tech a little while ago and he said that such a problem is not inherent in the 4.7 or could he remember any problems associated with this symptom or a necessary factory correction.
A small amount of condensation does form on the bottom side of the oil fill cap on my 4.7 during the winter months. But it is not any worse than any of our other cars and most certainly better than our Avalon, which does really suffer from this.
Short trip driving over a long period can cause this, as well as extended oil changes, a clogged PCV valve, or a bad thermostat that prevents the engine from coming up to full operating temperature. Any combination of the above can cause rapid and serious moisture build up and severe sludging.
Best regards,
Dusty
Good luck with the new vehicle.
Dusty
kcram
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Any one switch to Rottella?
THanks
Thoughts?
Could be since you seem to get a reaction when you manipulate the ignition switch.
As with most vehicles nowadays, Chrysler radios have two power feeds. One for the radio itself and another for the display in the radio unit. The radio display gets its power through the lamp circuit. This is to facilitate varying the intensity of the radio display light output with the rest of the instrument panel lamps. The radio itself is fed from another circuit.
I don't know if I can help you a lot beyond that. My Dodge Dakota manual is my only reference at the moment. Although the radios are the same between RAM and Dakota, the instrument wiring may be different.
Best of luck,
Dusty