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I don't deny that long-term warranties are marketing tools just like rebates and low-APR financing. But many people will put a different value on peace of mind 4-5-6-7 years down the road over the initial cost savings. With financing terms and leases routinely exceeding the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper plan, it's important to avoid expensive repairs while you're still making payments. This is especially true with a truck that will see more heavy-duty use over a car - the family who tows a boat or camper for the weekend to some remote lake area will feel a lot better that their transmission ios covered when the odometer hits 63K and they're otherwise stuck at their campsite. That is likely not the case for the subcompact that hits 63K miles and has been passed to the kids - that car is now a "disposable" beater and isn;t as great a loss.
Pop on over to the "Warranty Gold Experiences" discussion in the Finance/Warranty/Insurance board and see how those people feel about having their peace of mind yanked from under them. Those folks know they were purchasing POM, not a tangible product. But they could place a value on it, and were past angry to find out it was gone.
In my caae, my 1996 Ram came with a 3/36 B2B on the truck and a 5/100 on the Cummins engine. I purchased a 7/100 Chrysler service contract for that POM, and it paid for several repairs over the years. When the truck hit its 7th birthday, I was at 92K miles. Couldn't have timed that much better.
Reliability is just as subjective as the term "better." To each her/his own. Over the years I've known people who defined the two words in sometimes anfractuous ways. But like you, my opinion of reliability is more conventional.
Since newer vehicles have become much more complex utilizing new technologies, it is not surprising that problems occur that are not frequent yet often debilitating. All manufacturers have had to deal with these issues.
My company has had F150s now since 1997 and some have had a vibration problem that Ford still seems unable to resolve 100%. This, I might add, is on a platform that is at least that old, too.
We started buying RAMs in '02 (we are turning over our F150 fleet) and so far they have surprised most people. We'll see how they do as they collect miles and years, but so far they've been almost completely trouble free.
let us know if you run into any problems with tie rod ends or ball joints on the new rams. some folks over at allpar.com have been mentioning said problems on low mileage '02 and newer rams...
Emale, sure. Two of the three '02s that we have are over 25,000 miles the last time I saw the print out. The '03s are currently assigned to duties that won't gather as many miles I'm afraid.
Do you know what the failure scenarios are like? Do they break, or prematurely wear?
On our current F150 fleet we've had some upper ball joints replaced due to wear. On our older Chevrolet/GMC fleet it was pitman arms and tie-rods and this was an almost constant problem.
Our pre-'02 RAMs were the only 4x4s that we had and some of them had premature track-bar replacements.
dusty a guy over in the news/rumors forum at allpar has mentioned doing a couple tie rods on recent rams. he also mentioned having done a number of upper ball joints on durangos and dakotas. he is an alignment specialist...
My 1996 1500 5.9 has been driven just over 45,000. About 5000 miles ago, in cool weather, the transmission began to require up to 2500 rpm before shifting from 2nd into 3rd. Normally, of course, each gear shifts at around 1900. And as the transmission reaches operating temperature, the 2nd to 3rd returns to normal. It was serviced at 30,000. Anyone know what is going on?
Yeah, I have had a couple of people tell me about upper ball joint replacements on Dakota/Durangos. I'm pretty sure that these were in the 30-50K range and three years old or better. And, of course, I've read about some in here.
I haven't heard or read anything about '02 and up RAMs with pre-mature tie-rod ends going out. I talked to my Dodge tech. yesterday but I forgot to ask him about that.
Since you have the 360 motor you should have the 46RE transmission. I do not know exactly when Chrysler made changes to the power control module (PCM) circuits, but newer 46REs have a sensor in the transmission to detect fluid temperature. This sensor sends a signal back to the PCM to change shift points. Until the transmission fluid reaches a certain temperature, torque converter lock up, overdrive engagement, and shift point speeds are delayed.
But there are other things that could give you the same symptom:
1. Engine slow or not coming up to full operating temperature.
2. Low or high transmission fluid.
3. Oxidized or contaminated transmission fluid.
4. Partially clogged transmission filter.
5. Throttle linkage sticky or out of adjustment.
6. Bands out of adjustment.
There are other things that could cause this as well, but it would be better to have a transmission diagnostic expert appraise your situation.
One recommendation I could make is to have the fluid and transmission filter replaced ASAP, especially if you've never had this service performed. Do not use Dexron/Mercon ATF. Your's should take ATF+3 or ATF+4.
As a mechanic, I agree with you on the fact that extended warraties, especially OEM extended warraties, while they may seem like marketing ploys, more often pay for themselves. If you shop around, you may find that you can get one that if not used during the period of its coverage, may give a rebate/refund of a percentage of what is not used.
I do know that I have seen several Ram trucks that have run into problems after the factory warranty was up and the extended coverage took over and paid for the repairs. On some instances, the repairs were $1,000-$2,000 repairs. The cost of the warranty. In some rare cases, the instances that the extended warranty was used was several times. My father has a 98 Ram, with the 24 valve Cummins turbo. Because of the extended warranty, there has been 2 major repairs that it covered. I have to replace the transfer/lift pump next week on it. It hasn't failed yet, but it has lost pressure enough that the vehicle won't go passed 45 mph without fuel starving.
imo, manufacturers push extended warranties for two reasons:
1. overall they make money off them. 2. customer satisfaction.
just think, which customer is gonna be more pissed if his tranny goes t!ts up. the one that has the extended warranty; or the one that doesn't? chance are that a customer who purchased the warranty will be more forgiving and possibly buy another vehicle later from the same company.
why am I not offered a substantial discount on a warranty, for having a manual trans?
Because it's an insurance policy and the risk gets spread around. I'm not big on paying for extra warranty. The only advantage the warranty company has is more likely better institutionalized investments to make money off the premiums. I'll take my own risk. They're only good for people that will lose sleep worrying about "what-if's" concerning potential repairs and those that would never be able to afford a repair down the road and need to finance the warranty into the purchase price. As to the latter, if you're extending yourself that far you have other issues to begin with.
You are 100% correct on both counts, except I'll add that the dealer gets a fair amount of that price, too.
I've since disgarded the extended warranty offer I got direct from Chrysler on my Dakota, but I think the longest and best plan available would've cost nearly $3000. At the time of purchase, though, the dealer's price was considerably less as I recall.
Anyone out there own an '04 Dodge cummins, what does the water temp run most of the time. Mine has a 200 deg mark and seems to run just under that. My old '99 Dod cummins seemed to run a little cooler. My '04 has all the towing cooler upgrades. Maybe the new ones just run a little warmer?? By the way, so far this is one of the sweetest vehicles I've ever owned. What a neat truck. Jack
My '03 CTD warms up to just the right of the center of the temperature gauge. Never more, so far. And I'll agree about it being the extremely neat truck - fun to drive - lovin' every minute of it!
I've now put around 1500 miles on my used 2002 Ram 1500 and I absolutely love the truck. Wish the mileage was a bit better but I can live with it. Getting about 16 mpg mostly higway driving (4.7 with 3.92 rear end)in Wisconsin. Have a question: my oil pressure guage reads just a tad over the middle mark. On my Dakota with the same motor and over 90,000 mi.read higher (almost at the 3/4 mark) Is this a difference in the guages and guage markings or perhaps sending unit etc; is it something I should be concerned about or was the Dakota reading exceptionally high for some reason. I have the regular cab and I can't believe how nice this truck handles; much more like a car than a truck. I look for reasons to drive!
I don't think there's problem. Both the gauge and the sending units have an acceptable tolerance which could explain the difference. In addition, there could be a calibration difference between the Dakota instruments and the RAM instruments system.
You can check the calibration of the gauges by performing the Instrument Cluster Actuator Test. This test will at least tell you if the oil pressure gauge is working correctly.
I do not have a RAM service manual, but knowing Chrysler I'm guessing that the diagnostic test sequence is very similar. When you run this test all of the instrument indicator lamps should sequence. The gauges will move to certain calibration points, low, midway, and high. During the gauge test all of the gauges should be indicating the same position through each sequence and pause for a few seconds, so you need to keep your eye on the gauges.
1. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch.
2. Press the odometer/trip button and hold.
3. Switch the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Keep the odometer button pressed for about 10 seconds, or until the letters CHEC appear in the odometer display. Whec "CHEC" appears, release the odometer button and observe the diagnostic test sequence.
5. Repeat if necessary.
If this diagnostic test works on your RAM and the gauges successfully meet the calibration points, then the instrument cluster circuitry and the PCI data bus is functioning okay. If not (you have a lazy gauge), I would take it back to the dealer and ask that it be repaired.
Now, if the gauges check out okay you either have a sending unit that is in or out of specification. If the sending unit is not out of specification, then your oil pressure is actually lower in all likihood. If your concerned, your dealer could check the actual pressure but I suspect its going to be in the operation range which is:
*curb idle at operating temperature - 4 PSI minimum
*3000 RPM at operating temperature - 25 - 80 PSI
If those numbers seem low to you its because those are minimum pressures at any mileage. Low mileage engines will typically be much higher, even more historically true for Chrysler engines. If you think your getting a low reading there could be a problem with the oil pressure bypass valve in the oil pump, a worn or out of spec oil pump, a clogged oil filter, or maybe oil that's been in the engine too long.
Just as info, my 2003 Dakota with the 4.7 at warm idle reads just slightly below the half-way mark on the oil pressure gauge. At speed it reads just above the half-way mark.
Thanks Dusty: You should change your name to "Mr. Wizard". If you're getting that kind of a reading on yours then it pretty well parallels what I'm getting. Maybe my Dakota's was off because it really, pretty much from new on read high. I always thought that was really good but maybe that is not the case. In any event that engine never gave me a bit of trouble so I hope the Ram's 4.7 will follow suit. I change oil every 2,500 miles and I did change the oil in the Ram after I bought it because I don't have much faith in dealers. The other thing I do is immediately check tire pressure because they usually have that way off. The RAM is supposed to be at 35 lbs psi and when I brought it home one tire was at 28 and the others were barely at 30 psi. I suspect no one bothered to put more air in when the temperature dropped. Speaking of tires, that RAM has a very unusual tire size. They are GY Wranglers in a 275-70-17. I figure if I start saving my money now I might be able to afford new ones when there due to be replaced. I have found 265-70-17 (at Wall Mart in a Continental brand)but I suspect for the 275's I'll be going right to my neighborhood GY dealer. Anyway that's it for now. Take care and keep up the good work.
Think of what it would be like to fork the cash over for 20 inchers!
By the way, having been thoroughly angry at Goodyear for many years over a lousy set of Arriva's I bought back in the '80s, I must say that the Goodyear Wrangler SR/As that came on my Dakota are doing exceptionally well. They are wearing like iron and handle and ride very, very well. Not being a snow tire, the traction is far better than I would expect, too.
I read that Dodge, in an effort to stop customer inquiries about fluctuating oil pressures, set the guage to read in the middle when there is adequate pressure, and to low when pressure gets below a set level. It is more of an idiot light than a functioning guage.
I don't believe that at all. From initial start in cold temperatures to fully warm my gauge reacts pretty much like any I've ever seen in the past. The curb idle oil pressure is very high (cold) and comes down after its at full operating temperature. It swings up past half-way at highway speeds.
Keep in mind that if the oil pressure is high to begin with, your going to reach bypass sooner and see a lot less gauge flucuation.
The reason you've noticed more flucuation on other engines is because the low speed oil pressure is much lower. Chrysler has used what is called a "constant pressure" oil pump for many years. They're very high at idle (40-60 PSI is the normal range).
On our Kodiaks and F600s at work you will see a greater flucuation on the gauge, but they idle warm at 15-20 pounds.
>>>Yes it is an idiot light... Guess you're the wizard! If your guage moves up and down in small increments, and seems to be working very acurately, I suppose it's defective!<<
You are only partly correct about the system description, but are you trying insinuate that I'm a liar, too? The fact that I didn't believe it is based on the way my Dakota reacts.
Since typing seems to bore you, I hope reading comprehension elicits a little more excitement. The rest of the circuit description is as follows:
"Each time the the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating the engine oil pressure is between about 6.9 kPa (1 psi) and 137.9 kPa (20 psi), the cluster holds the gauge needle at a point about 11 DEGREES ABOVE THE LOW END OF NORMAL increment on the gauge scale. Each time the the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating the engine oil pressure is between about 517.1 kPa (75 psi) and 755 kPa (109.5 psi), the cluster holds the gauge needle at a point about 7.4 DEGREES BELOW THE HIGH END OF NORMAL increment on the gauge scale. When the the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating the engine oil pressure is between about 137.9 kPa (20 psi) and 517.1 kPa (75 psi), the gauge needle is moved to the ACTUAL RELATIVE POSITION ON THE GAUGE SCALE."
2003 Dakota Service Manual, 8J-31 & 32
So, a certain range of movement does indeed occur and it is not "just an idiot light."
"Ya know if everybody bought a factory service manual (the most rewarding vehicle option) we could exchange page numbers, instead of typing long dribbles."
Yep.
You seem to have a low tolerance for anybody that shares a different opinion from you, and if they do you seem all to willing to succumb to juvenile personal attacks.
The real problem is I don't share your campaign of disdain for Chrysler that you'd like everyone else to share. Your childish, mocking, and trite attitude is unfortunately -- in my opinion -- a sign of superiority complex.
I let your childish comments pass the last time. I'm in here trying to share information and help people. What are you in here for? Just trying to cut down anybody that doesn't share your particular viewpoint??
>>>"this is what the RAM does, so Dakota must be the same"<<
Apparently besides the juvenile and bellicose way you care to address me, you also like to put words in peoples mouths that wasn't said. If you re-read what I sent, it said that, "...but knowing Chrysler I'm guessing that the DIAGNOSTIC TEST SEQUENCE is very similar."
I never made the comment about the oil pressure gauge system being the same, just the test.
So I get it, I don't own a RAM so I have no right being here, is that correct, too??
However, let me ask you what YOUR service manual says about the circuit description. Is it or is it not the same?
Does the RAM instrument cluster diagnostic work differently??
Guys: I didn't mean to initiate a disagreement. This forum works best when when we share and exchange ideas, questions and opinions about our common interest - TRUCKS. Regarding the tires, I wonder how much the speedometer and mpg might be affected if I opted for the 265's over the 275's when it comes time to buy. Now that I own a RAM I'm considering changing my forum name to "RAMO" but that's too close to "rambo" and I'm definitely not that type of a guy.
I had one of the first 02 1500QC with the 4.7L. When cold the oil pressure would go slightly past midway. After it was up to normal op temp the pressure would flux a little consistent with RPM's. I believe it was showing the actual pressure. I had a flash done and from that point on it went to halfway no matter what and did that till it was traded in at 15,000 miles. My 03 5.7L oil pressure gauge goes to halfway and stays there no matter what and has done this since new and now has 11,300 miles.
My 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee is the same way. Sometime in 02-03 the Cherokee's went to a "switch type" sending unit instead of the old variable resistance.
I have the FSM for the 02 and 03 and mine is working like it was designed to do. Also had a 96 1500 with the 5.9L. It's oil pressure gauge would fluctuate all the time consistent with temperature and RPM.
Not calling anyone a liar or disrespecting anyone's post, just answering the original question.
On the new ram's you only have to hold the odometer reset button in until the key is turned to on. After all the gauges sweep and lights illuminate you should get a "00 00" in the odometer display. That is letting you know no malfunctions are stored.
These are Circumference calculations for rough comparisons. 265/75R16
Rims are usually in inches and aspects are in millimeters so extra calculations are required.
Tire width (mm) divided by 25.4 = tire width in inches. 265/25.4=10.86065574
Tire width (inches) times Aspect Ratio = Section Height 10.86065574x75=8.145492
Section Height times 2 plus rim = Tire diameter (8.145492x2)+16=32.29098
Tire Diameter times 22/7 = circumference 32.29098*(22/7)=101.49
NOW. Understand that the numbers are based on a manufacturers labeling so it is not really accurate. But, then, the pressure of the air in the tire and the speed of travel will also affect the standing diameter of the tire. So... taking this all into consideration, if the above steps are applied to the tire that came on the vehicle as a base point, you can do the same to the other sizes you might consider and find the percentage of difference in distance traveled and thus know the odometer and reasonable speedometer variances.
By the way. Revs/mile is (5280*12) divided by tire diameter times (22/7). The deviation in percentage is the target tire value divided by the original tire value.
All of this means that I found that changing from the original 245/75R16 to 265/75R16 gives an odometer/speedometer reading that is 96.1924 percent of original.
I used a spreadsheet to do the calculations and comparisons.
Dako, many tire manufacturers provide a circumference specification. Once you know the tires circumference, a compensation factor can be determined. i believe that your dealer (or anyone have an OBD scan tool) can re-flash the PCM to compensate for the different tire size.
Dako. Based on your tire size I'd guess you have a 4 wheel drive with the offroad package. If I recall correctly your tire is almost 32" tall. The smaller 265 will work but will cause a small error in your speedometer which the dealer can program your computer to compensate for.
I have a 2003 Ram 1500 2wd that came with the Eagle LS tires on the "Chromed" aluminum wheels. I did not think that the Eagles would provide the kind of traction I desired for our Mid West winters so I bought a set of Take off wheels/tires on Ebay. I bought the painted 17" aluminum wheels that came with the Wrangler GS-A tires that were removed from a 2002 4x4. The overall diameter of these wheels in comparison to the 20" are virtually identical. I have not noticed a difference in engine rpm for any given speed I had recorded with the 20" wheels/tires.
As an aside I could have saved my money as the Wrangler GS-A tire is dangerous on damp or snowy roads and is prone to wheel spin when accelerating briskly. I believe next year I'll replace them with Bridgestone Blizzaks like I had on my Dakota. Rick
Thanks to everyone for your input on the tire issue. Gives me some things to consider and calculate, also was not aware that the dealer could reflash the PCM to compensate. Rick, the tires that came on my 17" painted rims were the Godd Years AT/S (they look more like an all season tread but snow has been limited so I don't know how good or bad they'll be in slippery conditions). They make a little noise but I can live with that. Perhaps when I'm ready for tires there will be a greater availability and choices with the addition of 17" rims onthe market. In the meantime I'll work on your suggestions. Thanks again.
Just purchased a 2500 Diesel 4x4 QuadCab have noticed a slight vibration coming from under the drivers seat while driving at about 2100 rpms.This occurs in 2 or 4 wheel drive ,anybody have any similar problems? Input greatly appreciated. This problem did not occur in last 2 trucks. both were 2500 and 3500 hemi quadcabs.
Used to be NTW (National Tire Wholesale ), I dont know how far there stores are spread out - . I do know that when Sears bought them thats when the name changed to NTB( National TIre and Battery.
I think the synthetic motor oil manufacturers in general suggest leaving the factory oil in for a duration, maybe up to the first oil change interval. That may not apply in the case of diesels.
I have a 94 1 ton maxivan with a 360.The engine has 165k miles and is about t*ts up. Bad mis at idle when warm unless straight 40w oil inside..I guess lifters stopped liftin with out underwire support ha ha! I found a 2000 360 out of a durango with 20k miles.. The wrecking yard says it will match mine...what do you dodge experts think.. it appears some dodge tech's live around here BTW..tranny is not starting out in 1st anymore and front pump is a whinning... any suggestions on getting a longer life out of these trannys..last dealer rebuild lasted 2 hours before torque converter locked up all wheels ,then after they tried again it lasted 15000 miles and here we are about to kaput again...
The compression check I did shows between 115 and 125 all around.. did not do a leak down test.. general engine power is ok when it is cold..does not have a mis until it warms up..it only has a mis at idle..after you get off the line with it the mis becomes unnoticable until you return to idle...I guess lifters pump up at higher rpm's.... are cracked heads between valve ports typical on these heads? yes the engine was using oil at about what rate I don't really know..the engine also powers a carpet cleaning machine while it sits in customers driveways while it is parked at job sites..we have been putting in about a quart a week..no real leaks or smoking to speak of from exhaust either... will check back in a few hours in case you reply
Well, the compression appears to be in the good range, although I think that would be on the low side of a fresh engine. Then again, I think you said this baby had more than 150K, so it really isn't considered bad. If any cylinder were under 100 pounds or so I'd say the iron's tired. The fact that the compression is that even across all the cylinders indicates the head gaskets are fine.
Mopars, especially "LA" series engines, don't have a reputation for expiring from worn rings and the bottoms are extremely hearty. With high mileage the first thing that I've seen show up are valve seating problems.
The miss at idle could be caused by a number of things. I'm going to assume that you've done the plugs and ignition components and that hasn't resolved the problem.
Is the skip ALWAYS there at idle, even if you run the engine at high RPM for a while?
The fact that you say the skip is there only after its warmed up and it seems to run fine when its cold sort of leads me to first suspect a vacuum leak. The "LA" engines of the period that yours was built had a marginal intake manifold gasket design and that could cause a number of performance symptoms. I don't remember if this is one of them but it might be worth the investigation.
You could have worn distributor shaft bushings. I've seen this cause similar problems, although not on a Mopar engine (but I'm sure there's a first time).
The other possibility is a badly worn valve guide and/or brittle seal allowing enough oil in the combustion chamber that at idle, when combustion pressures are at the lowest, it fouls the plug. I would think that this would show up as a skip upon acceleration, too, until the plug cleared, but you don't indicate that in your symptom description.
Any excessive lifter-type noise?
I know it's not a nice job on a "B" series van, but I'd pull the valve covers off and inspect for a broken valve spring. If they look okay, run the engine (warm) and watch each rocker movement. It's possible you could have a worn cam lobe or some other indication of valve train problems.
A leak down test would tell you a lot more. It's possible that all this motor needs is head clean up and valve job.
As to the transmissions, I think you did not receive the best of a rebuild job. There's no reason why a correctly rebuilt "RH" or "RE" series doesn't go at least the same distance as the original did from the factory. The fact that you've got a pre-'98 means that there are a number of retrofits and upgrades that could be performed. The autos from your vintage were susceptible to marginal fluid flows to the overdrive components in cold weather operation. The shift solenoids of that era were very troublesome, too, but they've since been upgraded.
Electrical connections were prone to getting corroded as well. If the governor electrical circuit is not functioning, this will cause you to start out in second gear. A dirty valve body (dirty fluid) could cause this, too. If it really has front pump whine, that could be caused by clogged cooling lines, ergo - real dirty fluid. I can't say I've heard of a faulty torque converter locking up on a Mopar auto transmission, but I have heard of the Torque Converter Lock-up relays failing causing the same kind of condition.
A lot of Mopar auto trannys have been "rebuilt" when it wasn't necessary at all.
If I can think of anything else, I'll message you here. Keep us posted on what you find. We'll try to help you.
the engine has been torn down.. found cracks between valve seats on 5 cylinders at the shortest distance between each opening...heads are not repairable in my opinion....have been told they may be however I am not willing to risk it with the type of duty this engine sees with regards to the carpet cleaner onboard. Decided to replace entire engine now...found a 2001 360 med duty truck that had been hit right front corner..was able to pull the fan shroud away from front accessories and put a battery charger on it and the thing fired right up and runs as smooth as a babies rear end. oil pressure is right on the mark, cooling system was still intacked and had clean antifreeze in it, the turkey warmed up to normal op temperature, even the a/c was still working, and it only has 40k miles on it. I will be selling the entire unit soon so this will be a less expensive option. Got the unit for 1000.00 and it will be removed and ready at noon to be picked up on tuesday...
renegaded. The original purpose of the spreadsheet was to determine what different tire sizes could be used on a sedan to have the least change in the diameter of the tire and therefore the least impact on the speed and odometer. Yes, I totally agree that the tire pressure is also a major factor, and the only real way to do an absolute comparison is by actual measurements on the vehicle. Mixing widths and height aspects are easier in the spreadsheet. Especially adding in variations in rim sizes by going "plus 1" or "plus 2".
The pressure listed on the sticker is for the standard tires. If you read the paperwork provided along with your owners manual you will find the correct tire pressure for the optional wheel/tire combinations.
I am planning on buying a 2004 Ram 1-ton dually 2-wheel drive with the Cummins HO in the next 4 months or less. However, I am at an impasse as to choosing between the 6-speed and the newly revised automatic. I am us to driving manuals but as I am getting older I have to admit I like automatics.
I realize that the 6-speed will give me more power band utilization but I like the benefits of the automatic. However, I am somewhat worried about the horror stories of HD diesel pick-up automatics (GM, Ford and Dodge).
What help, advise, stories, etc can you fellows give me? I am having a lot of trouble with this one.
Well I just like the manual tranny better, even as good as the autos are getting. But if you're starting to like autos (as can be expected) I don't really see what the worry is. I've heard of folks having tranny issues, particularly the older ones but personally I think they only turn into horror stories if you let them.
The new ones seem to be holding up fine, but there is a 70k warranty if cost is a concern. If cost isn't as big of a concern, at the sign of a problem you just have one of the high performance tranny shops rebuild your tranny and that should fix things for quite some time.
My '01 Ram diesel with the infamous 47RE is still chugging just fine at 130k miles. I had planned all along to have a performance tranny put in when it grenaded but it hasn't let up yet. I've never even changed the fluid because I figured all along it would be toast by 50k miles since I tow nearly constantly with it. I'm surely not going to change the fluid at this point:)
While that tranny has run fine, I just was never pleased with how it picked the gears and applied the power. When I needed to add another truck, it was a six-speed all the way.
renegaded The Explorer deal may have been an example of "just good enough" to pass. Similar to the BMW 2002 radiators of thirty years ago. They were "good enough" when new, but when age and deposits set in, they had no margin and you overheated. Tires that are "just good enough" become way out of the safety zone with normal variations in tire pressures. All the charts you will find are really just guides. The folks who race and are looking for EVERY advantage use a pyrometer to check the temperature of the tires after laps and adjust the pressure until they get the best temperature reading. There are also folks who pull trailers and check for low pressure by touching the tire with their calibrated hand to "guestimate" how it is doing. Making it an "exact" science requires more instruments than most of us are prepared to buy. At least, more than I want to buy. So, there is a lot to be said for checking the weight riding on the axle to determine if you are stressing the limitation of the tires (Explorer). I don't think you are going to get a definitive, absolute, totally correct answer. You just have to give it your best shot and drive on down the road, hopefully enjoying the ride.
I think by now most people in here know my feelings on the subject of Chrysler automatics. There were some years of punky shift solenoid packs, marginal fluid flow problems to the overdrive section, problems with computer shift schedules, and corroded electrical connections to the transmission. Coupled with many cases of incorrect ATF use, there were years that problems and failures had a higher incidence.
To build on what Sebring has said, serious problems have been addressed, either by design enhancements or component changes. I still hear these stories and they are most certainly getting old. Most of them are " I know a guy who said...." or "everybody says they're bad," etc. One Dodge transmission failure has become the equivalent of 1000 Ford and 1000 GM transmission failures, if you get my drift.
Like I said in an earlier post, if you perform the required maintenance and not operate the transmission beyond its design specifications, your chances of having a problem or a failure are in the statistical noise of those that are destined to have a problem, either by incorrect assembly or defective components.
The new 48RE, by the way, is pretty much the typical Chrysler transmission architecture, just heavier in the major mechanical areas.
There are advantages to both the automatic and the manual. Manual has the obvious advantage of increased driver control for speed and power selection. It also has an extra gear. Manuals generally are more robust, yet simpler in design.
I've been told, however, that transmission "problems" are not necessarily reduced over an automatic. One local guy has told me that he does a fair amount of manual transmission repairs and rebuilds for trucks. If you needed a complete rebuild on a 48RE, all clutch packs, pumps, shift solenoid packs, accumulators, govenors, and a few incidental parts, it can potentially be cheaper than replacing just a couple of shafts and gears in a truck manual.
I would recommend that you forget about the reliability aspect and just concentrate on what you would prefer. Weigh the advantages and disadvantages. If necessary, see if you can get a few test drives in each version, spaced apart to give you time to see if your first impressions match your second impressions, and so on.
It really is a matter of preference.
Best of luck with your decision. Let us know what kind of new iron you get.
James, I just bought a 04 2500 diesel with the automatic. I can assure you it is rock solid. I had a 98 with the auto and it was a different animal. They were famous for being weak. This is a new transmission and is covered under the 7-70 warranty. My brother owns two NAPA repair centers and confirmed what the dealer told me about the new transmissions. Buy with confidence.
Comments
Best regards,
Dusty
Best regards,
Dusty
Pop on over to the "Warranty Gold Experiences" discussion in the Finance/Warranty/Insurance board and see how those people feel about having their peace of mind yanked from under them. Those folks know they were purchasing POM, not a tangible product. But they could place a value on it, and were past angry to find out it was gone.
In my caae, my 1996 Ram came with a 3/36 B2B on the truck and a 5/100 on the Cummins engine. I purchased a 7/100 Chrysler service contract for that POM, and it paid for several repairs over the years. When the truck hit its 7th birthday, I was at 92K miles. Couldn't have timed that much better.
kcram
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Since newer vehicles have become much more complex utilizing new technologies, it is not surprising that problems occur that are not frequent yet often debilitating. All manufacturers have had to deal with these issues.
My company has had F150s now since 1997 and some have had a vibration problem that Ford still seems unable to resolve 100%. This, I might add, is on a platform that is at least that old, too.
We started buying RAMs in '02 (we are turning over our F150 fleet) and so far they have surprised most people. We'll see how they do as they collect miles and years, but so far they've been almost completely trouble free.
Best regards,
Dusty
let us know if you run into any problems with tie rod ends or ball joints on the new rams. some folks over at allpar.com have been mentioning said problems on low mileage '02 and newer rams...
Do you know what the failure scenarios are like? Do they break, or prematurely wear?
On our current F150 fleet we've had some upper ball joints replaced due to wear. On our older Chevrolet/GMC fleet it was pitman arms and tie-rods and this was an almost constant problem.
Our pre-'02 RAMs were the only 4x4s that we had and some of them had premature track-bar replacements.
Regards,
Dusty
Can you direct me to the RAM discussions?
Thanks,
Dusty
I haven't heard or read anything about '02 and up RAMs with pre-mature tie-rod ends going out. I talked to my Dodge tech. yesterday but I forgot to ask him about that.
I'll keep you posted if I hear anything.
Regards,
Dusty
But there are other things that could give you the same symptom:
1. Engine slow or not coming up to full operating temperature.
2. Low or high transmission fluid.
3. Oxidized or contaminated transmission fluid.
4. Partially clogged transmission filter.
5. Throttle linkage sticky or out of adjustment.
6. Bands out of adjustment.
There are other things that could cause this as well, but it would be better to have a transmission diagnostic expert appraise your situation.
One recommendation I could make is to have the fluid and transmission filter replaced ASAP, especially if you've never had this service performed. Do not use Dexron/Mercon ATF. Your's should take ATF+3 or ATF+4.
Best of luck,
Dusty
If you shop around, you may find that you can get one that if not used during the period of its coverage, may give a rebate/refund of a percentage of what is not used.
I do know that I have seen several Ram trucks that have run into problems after the factory warranty was up and the extended coverage took over and paid for the repairs.
On some instances, the repairs were $1,000-$2,000 repairs. The cost of the warranty. In some rare cases, the instances that the extended warranty was used was several times.
My father has a 98 Ram, with the 24 valve Cummins turbo. Because of the extended warranty, there has been 2 major repairs that it covered.
I have to replace the transfer/lift pump next week on it. It hasn't failed yet, but it has lost pressure enough that the vehicle won't go passed 45 mph without fuel starving.
1. overall they make money off them.
2. customer satisfaction.
just think, which customer is gonna be more pissed if his tranny goes t!ts up. the one that has the extended warranty; or the one that doesn't? chance are that a customer who purchased the warranty will be more forgiving and possibly buy another vehicle later from the same company.
Because it's an insurance policy and the risk gets spread around. I'm not big on paying for extra warranty. The only advantage the warranty company has is more likely better institutionalized investments to make money off the premiums. I'll take my own risk. They're only good for people that will lose sleep worrying about "what-if's" concerning potential repairs and those that would never be able to afford a repair down the road and need to finance the warranty into the purchase price. As to the latter, if you're extending yourself that far you have other issues to begin with.
I've since disgarded the extended warranty offer I got direct from Chrysler on my Dakota, but I think the longest and best plan available would've cost nearly $3000. At the time of purchase, though, the dealer's price was considerably less as I recall.
Regards,
Dusty
Jack
You can check the calibration of the gauges by performing the Instrument Cluster Actuator Test. This test will at least tell you if the oil pressure gauge is working correctly.
I do not have a RAM service manual, but knowing Chrysler I'm guessing that the diagnostic test sequence is very similar. When you run this test all of the instrument indicator lamps should sequence. The gauges will move to certain calibration points, low, midway, and high. During the gauge test all of the gauges should be indicating the same position through each sequence and pause for a few seconds, so you need to keep your eye on the gauges.
1. Insert the ignition key into the ignition switch.
2. Press the odometer/trip button and hold.
3. Switch the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Keep the odometer button pressed for about 10 seconds, or until the letters CHEC appear in the odometer display. Whec "CHEC" appears, release the odometer button and observe the diagnostic test sequence.
5. Repeat if necessary.
If this diagnostic test works on your RAM and the gauges successfully meet the calibration points, then the instrument cluster circuitry and the PCI data bus is functioning okay. If not (you have a lazy gauge), I would take it back to the dealer and ask that it be repaired.
Now, if the gauges check out okay you either have a sending unit that is in or out of specification. If the sending unit is not out of specification, then your oil pressure is actually lower in all likihood. If your concerned, your dealer could check the actual pressure but I suspect its going to be in the operation range which is:
*curb idle at operating temperature - 4 PSI minimum
*3000 RPM at operating temperature - 25 - 80 PSI
If those numbers seem low to you its because those are minimum pressures at any mileage. Low mileage engines will typically be much higher, even more historically true for Chrysler engines. If you think your getting a low reading there could be a problem with the oil pressure bypass valve in the oil pump, a worn or out of spec oil pump, a clogged oil filter, or maybe oil that's been in the engine too long.
Just as info, my 2003 Dakota with the 4.7 at warm idle reads just slightly below the half-way mark on the oil pressure gauge. At speed it reads just above the half-way mark.
Best of luck,
Dusty
dako1
By the way, having been thoroughly angry at Goodyear for many years over a lousy set of Arriva's I bought back in the '80s, I must say that the Goodyear Wrangler SR/As that came on my Dakota are doing exceptionally well. They are wearing like iron and handle and ride very, very well. Not being a snow tire, the traction is far better than I would expect, too.
Bests,
Dusty
Keep in mind that if the oil pressure is high to begin with, your going to reach bypass sooner and see a lot less gauge flucuation.
The reason you've noticed more flucuation on other engines is because the low speed oil pressure is much lower. Chrysler has used what is called a "constant pressure" oil pump for many years. They're very high at idle (40-60 PSI is the normal range).
On our Kodiaks and F600s at work you will see a greater flucuation on the gauge, but they idle warm at 15-20 pounds.
Regards,
Dusty
You are only partly correct about the system description, but are you trying insinuate that I'm a liar, too? The fact that I didn't believe it is based on the way my Dakota reacts.
Since typing seems to bore you, I hope reading comprehension elicits a little more excitement. The rest of the circuit description is as follows:
"Each time the the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating the engine oil pressure is between about 6.9 kPa (1 psi) and 137.9 kPa (20 psi), the cluster holds the gauge needle at a point about 11 DEGREES ABOVE THE LOW END OF NORMAL increment on the gauge scale. Each time the the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating the engine oil pressure is between about 517.1 kPa (75 psi) and 755 kPa (109.5 psi), the cluster holds the gauge needle at a point about 7.4 DEGREES BELOW THE HIGH END OF NORMAL increment on the gauge scale. When the the cluster receives a message from the PCM indicating the engine oil pressure is between about 137.9 kPa (20 psi) and 517.1 kPa (75 psi), the gauge needle is moved to the ACTUAL RELATIVE POSITION ON THE GAUGE SCALE."
2003 Dakota Service Manual, 8J-31 & 32
So, a certain range of movement does indeed occur and it is not "just an idiot light."
"Ya know if everybody bought a factory service manual (the most rewarding vehicle option) we could exchange page numbers, instead of typing long dribbles."
Yep.
You seem to have a low tolerance for anybody that shares a different opinion from you, and if they do you seem all to willing to succumb to juvenile personal attacks.
The real problem is I don't share your campaign of disdain for Chrysler that you'd like everyone else to share. Your childish, mocking, and trite attitude is unfortunately -- in my opinion -- a sign of superiority complex.
I let your childish comments pass the last time. I'm in here trying to share information and help people. What are you in here for? Just trying to cut down anybody that doesn't share your particular viewpoint??
Apparently besides the juvenile and bellicose way you care to address me, you also like to put words in peoples mouths that wasn't said. If you re-read what I sent, it said that, "...but knowing Chrysler I'm guessing that the DIAGNOSTIC TEST SEQUENCE is very similar."
I never made the comment about the oil pressure gauge system being the same, just the test.
So I get it, I don't own a RAM so I have no right being here, is that correct, too??
However, let me ask you what YOUR service manual says about the circuit description. Is it or is it not the same?
Does the RAM instrument cluster diagnostic work differently??
Dako
My 04 Jeep Grand Cherokee is the same way. Sometime in 02-03 the Cherokee's went to a "switch type" sending unit instead of the old variable resistance.
I have the FSM for the 02 and 03 and mine is working like it was designed to do. Also had a 96 1500 with the 5.9L. It's oil pressure gauge would fluctuate all the time consistent with temperature and RPM.
Not calling anyone a liar or disrespecting anyone's post, just answering the original question.
On the new ram's you only have to hold the odometer reset button in until the key is turned to on. After all the gauges sweep and lights illuminate you should get a "00 00" in the odometer display. That is letting you know no malfunctions are stored.
Steve
265/75R16
Rims are usually in inches and aspects are in millimeters so extra calculations are required.
Tire width (mm) divided by 25.4 = tire width in inches. 265/25.4=10.86065574
Tire width (inches) times Aspect Ratio = Section Height
10.86065574x75=8.145492
Section Height times 2 plus rim = Tire diameter
(8.145492x2)+16=32.29098
Tire Diameter times 22/7 = circumference
32.29098*(22/7)=101.49
NOW. Understand that the numbers are based on a manufacturers labeling so it is not really accurate.
But, then, the pressure of the air in the tire and the speed of travel will also affect the standing diameter of the tire.
So... taking this all into consideration, if the above steps are applied to the tire that came on the vehicle as a base point, you can do the same to the other sizes you might consider and find the percentage of difference in distance traveled and thus know the odometer and reasonable speedometer variances.
By the way.
Revs/mile is (5280*12) divided by tire diameter times (22/7).
The deviation in percentage is the target tire value divided by the original tire value.
All of this means that I found that changing from the original 245/75R16 to 265/75R16 gives an odometer/speedometer reading that is 96.1924 percent of original.
I used a spreadsheet to do the calculations and comparisons.
Any corrections to my approach are welcome.
Best of luck,
Dusty
I have a 2003 Ram 1500 2wd that came with the Eagle LS tires on the "Chromed" aluminum wheels. I did not think that the Eagles would provide the kind of traction I desired for our Mid West winters so I bought a set of Take off wheels/tires on Ebay. I bought the painted 17" aluminum wheels that came with the Wrangler GS-A tires that were removed from a 2002 4x4. The overall diameter of these wheels in comparison to the 20" are virtually identical. I have not noticed a difference in engine rpm for any given speed I had recorded with the 20" wheels/tires.
As an aside I could have saved my money as the Wrangler GS-A tire is dangerous on damp or snowy roads and is prone to wheel spin when accelerating briskly. I believe next year I'll replace them with Bridgestone Blizzaks like I had on my Dakota. Rick
Anyway, here is the Amsoil website:
http://www.amsoil.com/
Good luck,
Dusty
Bad mis at idle when warm unless straight 40w oil inside..I guess lifters stopped liftin with out underwire support ha ha! I found a 2000 360 out of a durango with 20k miles.. The wrecking yard says it will match mine...what do you dodge experts think.. it appears some dodge tech's live around here BTW..tranny is not starting out in 1st anymore and front pump is a whinning... any suggestions on getting a longer life out of these trannys..last dealer rebuild lasted 2 hours before torque converter locked up all wheels ,then after they tried again it lasted 15000 miles and here we are about to kaput again...
If so, do you know how much?
Have you done a compression and leak-down test? If not, how would you appraise the power of the engine in it's current state?
Regards,
Dusty
Mopars, especially "LA" series engines, don't have a reputation for expiring from worn rings and the bottoms are extremely hearty. With high mileage the first thing that I've seen show up are valve seating problems.
The miss at idle could be caused by a number of things. I'm going to assume that you've done the plugs and ignition components and that hasn't resolved the problem.
Is the skip ALWAYS there at idle, even if you run the engine at high RPM for a while?
The fact that you say the skip is there only after its warmed up and it seems to run fine when its cold sort of leads me to first suspect a vacuum leak. The "LA" engines of the period that yours was built had a marginal intake manifold gasket design and that could cause a number of performance symptoms. I don't remember if this is one of them but it might be worth the investigation.
You could have worn distributor shaft bushings. I've seen this cause similar problems, although not on a Mopar engine (but I'm sure there's a first time).
The other possibility is a badly worn valve guide and/or brittle seal allowing enough oil in the combustion chamber that at idle, when combustion pressures are at the lowest, it fouls the plug. I would think that this would show up as a skip upon acceleration, too, until the plug cleared, but you don't indicate that in your symptom description.
Any excessive lifter-type noise?
I know it's not a nice job on a "B" series van, but I'd pull the valve covers off and inspect for a broken valve spring. If they look okay, run the engine (warm) and watch each rocker movement. It's possible you could have a worn cam lobe or some other indication of valve train problems.
A leak down test would tell you a lot more. It's possible that all this motor needs is head clean up and valve job.
As to the transmissions, I think you did not receive the best of a rebuild job. There's no reason why a correctly rebuilt "RH" or "RE" series doesn't go at least the same distance as the original did from the factory. The fact that you've got a pre-'98 means that there are a number of retrofits and upgrades that could be performed. The autos from your vintage were susceptible to marginal fluid flows to the overdrive components in cold weather operation. The shift solenoids of that era were very troublesome, too, but they've since been upgraded.
Electrical connections were prone to getting corroded as well. If the governor electrical circuit is not functioning, this will cause you to start out in second gear. A dirty valve body (dirty fluid) could cause this, too. If it really has front pump whine, that could be caused by clogged cooling lines, ergo - real dirty fluid. I can't say I've heard of a faulty torque converter locking up on a Mopar auto transmission, but I have heard of the Torque Converter Lock-up relays failing causing the same kind of condition.
A lot of Mopar auto trannys have been "rebuilt" when it wasn't necessary at all.
If I can think of anything else, I'll message you here. Keep us posted on what you find. We'll try to help you.
Bests,
Dusty
replace entire engine now...found a 2001 360 med duty truck that had been hit right front corner..was able to pull the fan shroud away from front accessories and put a battery charger on it and the thing fired right up and runs as smooth as a babies rear end. oil pressure is right on the mark, cooling system was still intacked and had clean antifreeze in it, the turkey warmed up to normal op temperature, even the a/c was still working, and it only has 40k miles on it. I will be selling the entire unit soon so this will be a less expensive option. Got the unit for 1000.00 and it will be removed and ready at noon to be picked up on tuesday...
The original purpose of the spreadsheet was to determine what different tire sizes could be used on a sedan to have the least change in the diameter of the tire and therefore the least impact on the speed and odometer.
Yes, I totally agree that the tire pressure is also a major factor, and the only real way to do an absolute comparison is by actual measurements on the vehicle.
Mixing widths and height aspects are easier in the spreadsheet. Especially adding in variations in rim sizes by going "plus 1" or "plus 2".
I am planning on buying a 2004 Ram 1-ton dually 2-wheel drive with the Cummins HO in the next 4 months or less. However, I am at an impasse as to choosing between the 6-speed and the newly revised automatic. I am us to driving manuals but as I am getting older I have to admit I like automatics.
I realize that the 6-speed will give me more power band utilization but I like the benefits of the automatic. However, I am somewhat worried about the horror stories of HD diesel pick-up automatics (GM, Ford and Dodge).
What help, advise, stories, etc can you fellows give me? I am having a lot of trouble with this one.
Thanks,
Jim
The new ones seem to be holding up fine, but there is a 70k warranty if cost is a concern. If cost isn't as big of a concern, at the sign of a problem you just have one of the high performance tranny shops rebuild your tranny and that should fix things for quite some time.
My '01 Ram diesel with the infamous 47RE is still chugging just fine at 130k miles. I had planned all along to have a performance tranny put in when it grenaded but it hasn't let up yet. I've never even changed the fluid because I figured all along it would be toast by 50k miles since I tow nearly constantly with it. I'm surely not going to change the fluid at this point:)
While that tranny has run fine, I just was never pleased with how it picked the gears and applied the power. When I needed to add another truck, it was a six-speed all the way.
The Explorer deal may have been an example of "just good enough" to pass. Similar to the BMW 2002 radiators of thirty years ago. They were "good enough" when new, but when age and deposits set in, they had no margin and you overheated. Tires that are "just good enough" become way out of the safety zone with normal variations in tire pressures.
All the charts you will find are really just guides. The folks who race and are looking for EVERY advantage use a pyrometer to check the temperature of the tires after laps and adjust the pressure until they get the best temperature reading. There are also folks who pull trailers and check for low pressure by touching the tire with their calibrated hand to "guestimate" how it is doing.
Making it an "exact" science requires more instruments than most of us are prepared to buy.
At least, more than I want to buy.
So, there is a lot to be said for checking the weight riding on the axle to determine if you are stressing the limitation of the tires (Explorer).
I don't think you are going to get a definitive, absolute, totally correct answer. You just have to give it your best shot and drive on down the road, hopefully enjoying the ride.
To build on what Sebring has said, serious problems have been addressed, either by design enhancements or component changes. I still hear these stories and they are most certainly getting old. Most of them are " I know a guy who said...." or "everybody says they're bad," etc. One Dodge transmission failure has become the equivalent of 1000 Ford and 1000 GM transmission failures, if you get my drift.
Like I said in an earlier post, if you perform the required maintenance and not operate the transmission beyond its design specifications, your chances of having a problem or a failure are in the statistical noise of those that are destined to have a problem, either by incorrect assembly or defective components.
The new 48RE, by the way, is pretty much the typical Chrysler transmission architecture, just heavier in the major mechanical areas.
There are advantages to both the automatic and the manual. Manual has the obvious advantage of increased driver control for speed and power selection. It also has an extra gear. Manuals generally are more robust, yet simpler in design.
I've been told, however, that transmission "problems" are not necessarily reduced over an automatic. One local guy has told me that he does a fair amount of manual transmission repairs and rebuilds for trucks. If you needed a complete rebuild on a 48RE, all clutch packs, pumps, shift solenoid packs, accumulators, govenors, and a few incidental parts, it can potentially be cheaper than replacing just a couple of shafts and gears in a truck manual.
I would recommend that you forget about the reliability aspect and just concentrate on what you would prefer. Weigh the advantages and disadvantages. If necessary, see if you can get a few test drives in each version, spaced apart to give you time to see if your first impressions match your second impressions, and so on.
It really is a matter of preference.
Best of luck with your decision. Let us know what kind of new iron you get.
Bests,
Dusty
I just bought a 04 2500 diesel with the automatic. I can assure you it is rock solid. I had a 98 with the auto and it was a different animal. They were famous for being weak. This is a new transmission and is covered under the 7-70 warranty. My brother owns two NAPA repair centers and confirmed what the dealer told me about the new transmissions. Buy with confidence.