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in a 95 ef falcon.Car is still running well and i have no probs any where else.what could be the cause of this????????
I am new to the push button start cars and was wondering how someone would listen to the radio and have the engine off. I do this now when I am early to work.
No matter how it happens it doesn't come out good for us owners. The problems generally begin to appear around or just after the time the warranty expires, usually between 60K and 90K miles. I've read numerous posts around the web on the problem. Some people have had good luck getting their dealer or Nissan to help cover the costs of engine replacement, many haven't been so lucky. The verdict is still out on my case, I'm expecting to hear from Nissan early next week. I should also note that I've seen people getting quotes of up to $6000 to replace the engine. My local dealer, whom I feel has treated me well through the troubleshooting phase, quoted me $2898 for labor and parts to replace the entire engine ('long block'). I don't know if that's rebuilt or new.
By the way, for those having atarting prolems (I have a 2003), we ran into a no start after a few days of not running the car. I went to three dealers, one of ehom said I needed a new radiator and replaced it under a warranty that I would think Nissan would have questioned. I have been driving for a zillion years and as far as I know, I can't see any relationshipbetween failure to start and a radiator, unless there was a leaking hose getting on plugs. The final solution was a defective alternator. I was fairly sure that was the problem.
HOWEVER having speculated on all that, it would be good to know HOW they determined a bad head gasket was the problem. A test or a guess? If a test, which test? Compression? Cooling system pressurization? X-ray vision (mechanic superpowers).
so that would be good for you to know. A good mechanic can justify his assertions with tests than give actual data.
If for instance, he did a compression test and found two adjacent cylinders with lower compression, that's a good hint of a bad head gasket; or if he did a cooling system pressurization and then removed the spark plugs, he could see coolant on the spark plugs--the coolant having been forced past the bad head gasket into the combustion chambers.
You don't tear into an engine based on guesses in other words.
For the past 1.5 months I've been hearing a bubbling noise that sounds like a liquid moving through a tube when I rev my engine from a stop. It also needs a somewhat medium paced and steady acceleration for the noise to occur, and I was wondering if anyone had experienced this. I thought it might be my coolant being low but I topped it off and it still makes the noise. It sounds like it's coming from behind the passenger side dash board.
Also, I was wondering if anyone has experienced uneven brake wear that makes the brake pads feel wavy from the inner radius to the outter radius. I brought it to Midas for an oil check and the mechanic brought it to my attention when inspecting the rest of the car during an oil change. He said it is typical for a car that's been on a long trip, because he thought I had driven it from NY to Washington state (2800 miles), when it was actually shipped there.
Anyways, any help will do, thanks in advance.
I've got a 2000 Altima with an overhead console which has lights and a sunglass holder - this is NOT a sunroof console.
The sunglass holder is broken. I bought a new cover from the dealer.
The problem is I cannot figure how to remove the old console cover. It appears to have a screw in the front, then just push to remove. I've tried this but it doesn't work.
I don't want to destroy the old console cover just to remove it, I might damage something I need.
Advice??
Thanks
The information you are about to hear is not something you want to hear but it is the truth about Nissan Altimas. I own a 02 Nissan Altima 2.5 which has 122k miles on it. I recently noticed a oil consumption issue with my car a month or so ago. I have also had a check engine light on P0420 which is a o2 sensor / catalyst converter issue. I took it to the dealership and they told me it needed a new cat. It was going to cost me 1100 or so for the part and labor. I thought about replacing it and did some research on the issue and uncovered a make larger issue.
There are thousands of Nissan Alti owners with the same issue. The problem is Nissans Precat has a design flaw causing debris to damage the precat and the catalyst converter. If damage takes place it may deteriorate the cat and then suck it into the engine creating major oil consumption issues cause you to have to replace the engine. Nissan is aware of the issue but you have to fight with them to replace your engine. I was told they were not going to assist me in replacing my engine because I was so far out of the warranty coverage. So in my defense I am hiring a lawyer and starting a class action lawsuit.
This may not be the case with your car but I would definitly check your oil often and get your Catalyst convert checked out right away. If it is missing pieces I would have the dealership document it and then call Nissan NA and file a claim.
GL
with everything
Kaalub Rittgers
1) 1 new master cylinder.
2) 1 rear caliper.
3) 1 rear brake pads.
4) 1 front brake service.
5) 4 OE type engine mounts, transmission mounts and torque mounts.
6) 2 battery cable ends.
7) 1 Engine steam clean & die (to inspect oil leaks)
Even though the vehicle might have had problems, it was driving fine. Now after the repair, I am just plain scared to get this thing on the road. Here is what is happening.
1) When I turn on the ignition, the vehicle idles way too high. If I press the gas pedal, it obviously idles faster, but when I release the gas pedal, the idling does not slow down. I have to push my foot UNDER the gas pedal, push it up (if you can visualise all this), and then the idling returns back to normal.
2) Same while driving. Once I lift my foot off of the gas pedal, the vehicle will keep driving at that speed, if I push the brake pedal, the vehicle will slow down, but once I lift my foot off of the brake pedal, it will keep moving at the slower speed, as if it is on some sort of automatic city cruise control.
3) The AC: The air condtioning worked fine before the repair, but ever since I have gotten my vehicle back, the ac only works when the vehicle is stationary. When the vehicle is in motion, the ac stops working.
4) The transmission: When I put the vehicle in "P", it idles very high, when I put it in "R", the vehicle jerks off big time, and almost tries to make a leap backwards.
5) I can also hear some kind of a squeal form somewhere within the hood.
Has the mechanic screwed me? Am I driving a potentially dangerous vehicle? Is this thing going to explode in the middle of the road? I am very uncomfortable driving a vehicle that I don't trust.
What do I need to do? What is wrong with this car?
Please help!!
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Today, I was a lot more comfortable driving the vehicle. The ac worked at different times during the day but I am not sure whether it had to do with the weather cooling down a little bit because of the rain. When I had driven the vehicle yesterday, it was quite hot, so I am not sure whether the weather has any role to play here.
The "check engine" light is still on. I have not been able to speak with the mechanic because had closed by the time I tried to contact him on Saturday and he remains closed on Sunday. The accelerator still gets stuck while driving, and I have to keep pushing the gas pedal up, to slow down the vehicle, otherwise it keeps cruising at constant speed. The transmission seemed to work fine too, today. I will bring up the points that you mentioned with him and see what he has to say. Thanks for the input.
When I parked the car, I turned it off and when I put the key in the accessory position and turned on the heat and fan it came right on. What is causing this and what is the fix?
I had the exact same problem with my 1995 Altima, little less than 1 month back. The A/C stopped working while I was driving and just would not turn on, no matter what I did. When I came back home, I turned the ignition off and then back on, and it started functioning, as if nothing had happened.
It has not created a problem, since then, though. Read electricdesign's reply to my earlier post. That might answer your question.
thx
Chris
I was very surprised to see a post like this, because it is so idiotic! Whoever said this to your mother is a complete idiot. They only wanted to take advantage of her! This would #@#! me off for sure, if this was my mom. There is NO gumming of brake pads and NO required cleaning of brake pads. The only thing the brake pads make as they wear is DUST, which blows away. The only service required on the brake pads is to replace them when they get thin, or replace if they get contaminated by grease, and those pads should have lasted over 40,000 miles. If the rotors should happen to get contaminated by grease somehow, possibly by a leaking grease seal, they can very simply be easily cleaned off with Brake Kleen, a spray in a can that is inexpensive and available at any parts house. Rotors only need to be replaced if excessivly scored or worn. From what you have said, it sounds like they ripped your poor MOM off. If it was my MOM, I go back down there and start kicking some @#! right away!