Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Hopefully tonight.
Thanks for your response, you may be right, we were not very comfortable with the place that did the work...to begin with....
Carol (my fiance) drives the car only to work which is around the block and to local shopping only so I dont think it is the type of driving....
I will find out more tonight.
Thanks
No matter what, I would take the car back down there and insist that they make the job right at no cost to you!
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
This isn't the end of the world by any means but its annoying to be turning the heat on and off every few minutes, especially since I drive so much and its winter. Does anyone know a way to fix this without involving a mechanic?
:confuse:
That all depends on how much you know about electricity and if you know how to troubleshoot electrical problems and do you have simple test equipment and know how to use it? In other words, can you do what a mechanic does? If not, take it to one. Your problem sounds like it could be one of these things:
Blower Motor Resistor
Fan Speed Switch
or the Wiring between the Fan Speed Switch and the Blower Motor Resistor
Good Luck,
E. D. in Sunny Florida
Ken
Best car I have ever owned.
Ken
Any ideas?
Good luck. I am sure someone out there will have the answer.
Good Luck
Thanks in advance for your help.
Good luck
E.D. ISF
I'm still gonna go with weak coils or some other problem relating to just one cylinder.
Lot's of things could cause that miss. Here is another possibility:
This symtom could also be caused by engine coolant entering a cylinder, the same thing happened on my daughters 2002 Altima 2.5S, with 100,900 miles. Watch the coolant level in the resivior and radiator, check the radiator ONLY when the engine is COLD. If you mysteiously loose coolant without any apparant leak, it could be the problem. Also watch for steam out the exhaust pipe, AFTER the engine has warmed up. It is normal for most cars to emit a small amount of steam and water out the exhaust pipe when first started, and for the first few minutes while warming up. This is because gasoline turns into mostly water when it burns. It is in the state of steam in the exhaust stroke, then when it enters the COLD exhaust pipe and muffler, it condenses back into water that you can see. Once the exhaust pipe and muffler are hot, the water remains steam and you don't see it, unless it comes out into cold air. If you have coolant leaking into the cylinder, it will often come out the exhaust as visible steam because of the volume of the coolant and it also causes the cylinder to misfire. This may or may not show up in a code, depending upon how bad it is.
These engines are KNOWN to warp heads, my daughters Altima 2.5S head was warped .005" and had to be milled at the machine shop. After rebuilding the head and putting it back on a week ago, it is doing fine so far.
If you want to know more about the work I did on the engine, you can go look in the Nissan Altima Engine Failures forum. There are long discussions there about the problems with the Pre-cats, Catalyic Converters and engines. Use the SEARCH feature.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
Please write back and tell us what the dealer tells you.
Ray Danley
Can you please help with this vexing issue? I bought a 2002 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL new from the dealer 6 years back.
The remote for our Altima had stopped working. Initially the car used to respond sporadically, but without any sounds (usually associated with locking of the car). But after sometime, it stopped responding completely. I thought it's the battery in the remote and got it replaced. But the problem continues. Never had this problem in the last 6 years.
I, now, suspect that it's an issue with the car sensor. have you guys heard/seen something similar?
Thanks in advance,
Timing chains usually last very long time, why would you think it's chains? How many miles you have on your car?
Try posting your question on edmunds answers page too...
First, what was the problem with the fuel injectors and what was done about it? Fuel injectors ar relatively trouble free. Sometimes they can clog or burn out. If you have bad ones, you simply replace them with new ones and replace the fuel injector seals with new ones. You check the electrical signal to each fuel injector by connecting a "NOID LIGHT" to each fuel injector, they will flash each time the they recieve the signal to "fire" the fuel injector. If the noid lights flash they are recieving the signal. The only other problem that you can have is if the fuel injectors are out of time. They are fired by the computer signals and the computer sends the signals according to the signals it recieves fron the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR and the CAMSHAFT SENSOR. Those sensors should be checked to be sure they are working. If the fuel injectors are working properly, continue to the next item.
Second, the distributor and ignition timing should be checked. If the timing chain was off, it would make the ignition timing off. Check the distributor for any leaking oil inside of it, as this has been known to create problems before. If the distributor is working fine, the ignition timing is set correctly, the spark plugs wires are good, connected correctly, and good spark at the spark plugs, continue to the next item.
Third, remove the spark plugs, connect a battery charger to the battery and using a cylinder compression tester, test the compression of each clyinder while cranking the engine. You should disable the ignition and block the throttle open while doing this. Write down the compression on each clyinder, the miles on the engine and the date, and keep it for your records. You would need to check the specification for your vehicle to see what compression should be expected. I would expect compressions of more than 140, but check you specs first to be sure. First, look to see how even they are, they should vary by no more than 20%. If the compressions are low on one clyinder, and ok on the others, I would investigate to see what the problems is with that one cylinder. If all of the cylinders are low, it may be because the timing chain is out of time or possibly some of the valves could be bent or leaking. This would require looking into the engine, removing the valve cover and timing cover to check the actual timing of the camshafts relative to the crankshaft.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida
I've been driving it for the past month or so without the keyless entry/lock, since the buttons were damaged. Using the key manually has been fine so far, so I don't believe that's the issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.
also, the car has been randomly shutting off...on the interstate with my foot on the gas or at stop lights...there is no pattern to it...does a camshaft sensor sound right to anyone? Any feedback would be great!
This problem will only get worse. When the oil seal completely breaks you car will not run at all. I have heard of some people solving the problem by drilling a small drain hole at the base of the distributor casing. I opted to simply replace the Nissan distributor with a high quality model. I have had no problems since the replacement.
Exactly what "similar problems" are you having? If the dealer recommended to replace a sensor, it is probably a good thing to go ahead and do it, since they have the equipment there to diagnose it correctly. Unless it is very expensive or troublesome, then you could always take it somewhere else for a second opinion.
Good Luck,
E.D. in Sunny Florida