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Sorry about that statement about the problem switching with the dash switch still in the front position. I got confused because we've been trying to figure this out for several weeks. When I re-read that statement, my thought was "Idiot!, that's not right!" The problem moved the rear tank with the REAR tank selected.
That's what's been so weird about this problem. The buzzing sound moves with it also. Sounds like the tank is sucking air when selected. I was finally able to siphon some of gas out of the front tank. Didn't get it all because I ran out of places to put it, but managed to get at least 10-12 gal out.
I still haven't ruled out the reservoir/selector tank thingy. Maybe we got a bad one. It did seem to fix the problem for a couple of tanks. Everything seems to point in that direction, just haven't decided to spend the $103 again on that. (I think I've already waited too long for it to be a warranty item)
I just mess around with the problem when I have time, I don't have to depend on it for transportation on a regular basis. I am to the point where it has become a challenge, and I figure at some point the bear will come out of the closet and I can shoot him.
Since the last time I was here, we found the fuel system relay was not where it was supposed to be, it was laying on the wheelwell, (apparently the little spade thing that holds it, had broken off.) did some playing around with it and noticed a badly corroded wire which ended up breaking off. I ended up replacing the connector and the relay. Nope, it didn't help the problem.
Regards
Ken
we encountered this very similiar problem on a 1978 Ford 150. I replaced everything related to fuel supply...from the line to the pump. To no avail.
As well, the starter, alternator, and about 10 batteries. So with all of those variables solved it still died...Finally we replaced the battery cables with ones of a greater diameter and assured clean contacts and bam it hasn't had the problem since. So perhaps it is worth a shot to replace the battery cables with new ones..design to carry more than enough current (Amps)
Good Luck.
Stephen
I got a '00 F 150 auotmatic 4x4.
just recently, when going up a slight incline going anywhere between 30and 55 mph it can't seem to make up it's mind on what gear to go into.
Any help?
Thanks
I love my truck, it is worth every penny I put in it.
Thanks for any help.
Bob
Btw..I also have the "clunk"..I brought it in, asked them NOT to teflon grease the joint b/c I read that it does not work. Got the truck back, they greased the joint and it is as bad, if not worse, than it was initially.
Amber
- Get your self new tank straps
- Get new tank strap mounting bolts if needed.
Remove the - cable from your batt.
Release all your line pressure from the high pressure pump and trip your inertia switch located in the cab on the left side of the steering column and on the firewall. You can trip this by tapping it with a screw driver.
Remove the tank.
Remove the lock washer by tapping it counter clock wise with a screwdriver and hammer. ( You will have to replace this) New one should come with your pump. The sending unit will come right out of the tank with a few jiggles.
Just replace the pump as you took it off everything is reversed. I have been having problems with my fuel lines since this tank and pump replacement. You should get new lines if you can't take them off with ease after removing the line clips.
Good luck have fun.
Oh... If your front pump is going your back will soon be next. Thats just the way it works.
Hope I helped out a bit
Remove all the lines from the tank before dropping it, that will include the fill hose. Make sure your tank is empty before doing all this.
1. Has anyone installed one in the ash tray compartment? I would like the installation to be neat, and the ash tray seems to have enough room and will allow the unit to be hidden.
2. I found an accessory item called DPX Plus Auxilliary Input Converter (made by Precision Interface Electronics) that indicates that it is compatible with "F Series pickup radio series 868" and connects to a 20-pin connector at the headunit. Does anyone know the function/advantage of this accessory to adding Sirius radio?
Thanks.
I can't blame you for thinking like that. I would caution you, however, from thinking that other carmakers are trouble free. Real life example: My next door neighbors had their second child in December. In preparation for the big event, last summer they traded their Volvo sedan on an Odyssey minivan. They could have bought a comparable equipped Town & Country for less money, but they wanted Honda quality. They did not want any problems with their family hauler. Guess what? It is--right now--in the shop for its second stint at the service department in less than 8 months. In 4 years, my Chrysler never saw a mechanic's wrench except to get routine maintenance. You get no guarantees with any vehicle. Please don't think you will be leaving all problems behind if you never buy another Ford.
kcram - Pickups Host
Good Luck!
I'm still trying to find a clean way to mount this unit as well, which is what brought me here.
I bought this truck about a year ago. When I bought the truck it did not have a fan shroud so I picked one up out of a junk yard. I can't remember why I put it on but ever since I did driving down the road I'm cool, when I get into stop and go traffic it starts to heat up and eventually overheats. Long story short I have replaced the Radiator, water pump, fan, fan clutch, fan shroud, thermostat, thermostat housing, upper and lower radiator hose's, the two heater core hose's. Still overheats, so today I tried flushing the engine, and that seemed to help a little but still getting hotter than supposed to so I took off the fan shroud and that seems to have helped ALOT!
Also yesterday when I was driving the A/C stopped blowing thru the vents and will only come out the defrost vents.
Does anyone have any ideas????????
HELP
BPCatfisher :mad:
As far as the ventilation system..... Switching the airstream from the floor to the vents or to the defroster ports is done by a vaccuum actuated diverter door. The default position for the door is the defroster. When it gets stuck in the defrost position it's usually a sign that you've got a vaccuum leak. Start checking for cracked or brittle vaccuum hoses. Especially check the one that comes through the firewall to service the heating/cooling system. It tends to get brittle right at the firewall. Also check those little "T" shaped vaccuum connectors - sometimes they'll be cracked, but you can't see it until you actually touch them.