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Does Jiffy Lube do this, and would anyone have experiences with them?
I'm considering getting the equipment to do this myself but am lazy during 100 degree heat.
Thanks.
Just make sure you or the mechanic uses the proper oil that is spec'd in your owners manual. The dealers aren't batting 1000 at this, so I doubt a independant would do much better until you tell them it has specific requirements.
i have not yet used the quick-oil-change place for either of my PD TDIs but might plan to do so - only for one of the oilchanges that does not call for fuel-filter-swap too.
First of all, you need to know which TDI engine you have... then we can talk about what oil you should be using.
That is why VW offers the 12-year/unlimited milage corrosion warantee.
They also added an oil additive (BG 110 - BG MOA® see description below) and Fuel additive (BG 208 - BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ see description below). I refused to pay for these items ($30.90) as i think they are a waste of money and also fear they may void the warranty. Any thoughts?
BG MOA® prevents oxidation and thickening of engine oil under even the most severe stop-and-go, high temperature driving conditions. It fortifies all qualities of engine oil to provide superior long-lasting engine protection and helps maintain optimum engine performance. BG MOA® keeps piston ring belts, hydraulic lifters and other engine components clean to help extend engine life and reduce costs of operation. It is compatible with both synthetic and petroleum-base oils. The Thin Film Oxidation Uptake Test (TFOUT), ASTM Test Method D4742, proves BG MOA’s remarkable resistance to oxidation by more than 200% longer than six major brands of SL quality oil. At the conclusion of the API Sequence IIIF Engine Test‚ a major brand, high-quality reference oil barely passed the 80-hour test with a viscosity increase of 255 percent. At 80 hours, another brand of oil fortified with BG MOA® had a viscosity increase of only 57 percent. At the conclusion of the triple-length, 240-hour test, it was still well within the viscosity limits with an increase of only 198 percent.
BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ safely, rapidly and thoroughly removes engine deposits in combustion chambers, intake manifolds, ports and on valves. It restores flow in fuel injectors and cleans the entire fuel system. BG 44K® Power Enhancer™ improves fuel economy and reduces exhaust emissions. It actually restores that “like new” driveability to an engine’s performance and keeps it running better, longer and more efficiently. Add one can or bottle to fuel tank at fill up. NOTE: After clean-up with BG 44K® Power Enhancer,™ regular use of BG Supercharge®II‚ Part No. 202‚ in gasoline engines or BG Diesel Fuel Conditioner with DPL‚ Part No. 2276‚ in diesel engines will prevent deposits from forming in the fuel system and upper engine for maximum driveability and fuel economy. Part No. 208 11 oz. can
Fuel additives - I realize that an additive such as the Amisoil cetane boost is needed with fill-ups, I haven't had much luck finding them in the Atlanta area (OK, I tried 3 places and decided to write the list). Is there any general consensus on which one is best and possibly the easiest way to find it?
My other question is about oil changes. Although what I have read specified oil changes every 10K miles, the dealer is recommending that the oil be changed every 5K miles. While this is not a problem for now (to "make" the deal when the wrong color car came in, I got 'free' oil changes every 5K miles through 50K miles), I am wondering whether this is dealer overkill or a good practice.
Great car to drive - a lot more fun than the 2 Honda's I was looking at, BTW.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It has been shown (by folks that have their oil tested regularly) that more wear actually occours immedeatly after an oil-change. It has also been shown that the oil could be run for 15,000 miles with no additional wear to the engine.
This means that the recomended 10,000 mile OCI should not be done more frenquently. It only puts more $$ into the pockets of the folks doing the oil change.
As for FUEL additives, for a diesel engine, there is no doubt that they are benifetial. The added lubricant for the expensive fuel pump is reason-enough alone. The additional MPG and quieter running are also worthwhile.
I carry fuel additive in my trunk (double sealed within a plastic container) I also carry a supply of 8oz paper cups so I can measure out 6oz for the fueltank and toss the stinky cup in the trash.
Here is a link for more information. There is also a dealer locator link on the page if you are interested.
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/ppt_dfa.asp
for those of us that are "Acronymicly" :P challenged like me, ULSD stands for Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel.
I found this link about ULSD.
Basically, ULSD is diesel fuel that only has about 5% sulfer which is down from the 97% that we have. My only concern with my new interest in diesel is older cars (and newer ones alike) that are used to running on the current diesel. I'm wondering if the vehicle will still function the same with ULSD. Is it like going from 91octane gas to 87octane or vice versa? :confuse: :confuse:
In reference to ULSD and older Diesel engines.... the sulfer *may* have offered some lubrication qualities which were benifitial to the high-pressure fuelpump.
The ULSD fuel also has specifications about lubrication-quality that is INTENDED to lubricate the high-pressure fuelpump.
Also, the reduction of sulfer in the ULSD will BENIFET the older TDI engines by reducing combustion deposits.
Sorry, it means nothing of the sort. ALL gasolines have roughly the same flash point (typically between -46 and -50 degrees centigrade, varying by the manufacturer NOT fuel grade). What the Octane number does signify is any given fuels' "Anti-Knock" capabilities. Said another way, the higher the octane, the slower the burn rate.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Using too low an octane in a high-compression or turbocharged engine can pre-ignite and punch holes in pistons. This is because the FA mixture will tend top ignite too soon due to too LOW a flashpoint when it is under pressure.
The "slower burning" is also a measure of octane....but that gets into the 2 different ways of measuring octane and how they are averaged together to give us the "pump octane" we typically see labelled on the gas pumps.
Here is a LINK to help you understand octane.
The flash point of a flammable liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can form an ignitable mixture with air (assuming an ignition source such as a spark from a spark plug). At this temperature the vapor may cease to burn when the source of ignition is removed.
Looked at another way, gasoline that is nearing its flash point is usually so cold that that’s about all it can do, “Flash”. Cause a spark plug to “Spark” in close proximity with gasoline that is near its flash point and you will get a brief “flash” and then the flame will simply extinguish itself.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, however, I believe the term you are searching for is the "Autoignition Temperature" (the temperature at which a properly mixed and compressed air and fuel charge will self ignite) which is defined as the following:
The autoignition temperature, or the ignition temperature of a substance is the lowest temperature at which a chemical will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere, without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will detonate decreases as the pressure increases or oxygen concentration increases (to a point after which the flame front will not be able to propagate itself). This term is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture under some form of pressure (i.e. compression or turbine boost).
FWIW, the "Flash Point" of all grades of automotive gasoline is generally considered to be about -46 degrees Celsius while the "Autoignition Temperature" is generally considered to be nearly 300 degrees Celsius higher, somewhere around 246 degrees Celsius.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks.
It's a tad hard to find in my local area (just my luck) but I have now found about 10 stations within a few miles of my normal commute.
However, I also note that several "brands" (primarily Shell) have a common pump and hose for gas (reg, mid-grade, hi-test) and diesel. Should I worry about contamination of the diesel if I buy there?
Also, NOT A SINGLE ONE OF THE STATIONS has the pumps labeled as to what type of diesel it is. The are all marked simply "Diesel". Nor could the managers at the 5 stations I asked tell me. While I am sure it couldn't possibly be ULSD or Bio-diesel (they'd trumpet that loudly), there's no way to tell if it is LSD (500ppm, 150ppm, etc. ad nauseum), #2, or for that matter kerosene or ... well, you can tell it isn't diesel #3 (that thick stuff that almost looks like tar). Two of the managers even went to the invoice and checked, but everything was marked simply "diesel".
Any suggestions on this one - I mean is it safe to assume it is #2 or ... well you get the picture. Suggestions?
Thanks
Airedad
Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this one.
The bad news is that Vw is dropping the Jetta TDI for 2007
Seriously, the good news is that Vw is building a NEW 2.0liter diesel likely to be called CDI or CRD for 2008. I found that here on edmunds
I always wondered about the amount of fuel left in the hose. If I pay for hi-test, but get half a gallon of regular at 20 cents less, that is a rip-off. If you think it is insignificant, a local deli recently got fined by the state for not subtracting the weight of the piece of plastic that comes under the meat! Add up the "extra" price in already inflated gasoline!
As to the oil changes....I obviously can't comment on the newest models however even my model recommended the first two oil changes be performed at 5k mile intervals and then 10k miles after that. I can't imagine they lowered the change intervals overall, if they're still calling for synthetic oil. My book also references using 5k intervals if you're NOT using synthetic. Of course, there's been a lot of VW owners manuals being completely WRONG before so nothing would really surprise me too much.
I wouldn't bet on that change of nomenclature. It's like 4Motion or quattro: more of a brand name than a technical description. VW/Audi has build common rail Diesel engines for a long time. Now the time has come that novel piezo technologies have become sufficiently fast and competitive, allowing for unprecedented control of multiple injections within the burn cycle, thus helping to reduce emissions to prescribed levels.
VW will still call it TDI, in my humble opinion.
Likewise -- A "common rail injection" engine is still technically a "Turbocharged Direct Injection" engine and could be called TDI.
Also.. I would be VERY VERY surprised if this is a TOTALLY NEW engine.... VW has been using the same basic casting for the engine block since they started selling watercooled engines.... There is no reason for that to change now.
Do not forget that here in NorthAmeica... we get the "old" technologies that have been sold in Europe for several years... again - I dont see that longstanding tradition changing. BUT WOULD HEARTILLY WELCOME GETTING SOME HI-TECH DIESEL TECHNOLOGY!
Now that we have ULSD... perhaps things might just change after all?
I'm hopeful. If Congress and the EPA is serious about using less fuel, diesel is the only way to go. Ethanol is several steps backward. Maybe they will see the light. Part of my hopefulness.
"Originally Posted by Bkmetz
A common diesel myth about lubricity sort of goes like this: High sulfur fuel was good for lubricity, low sulfur is not, so sulfur must be the magic ingredient that gives diesel its lubricity. WRONG. Here is what sulfur really is. Sulfur is not a lubricant. As a solid it's abrasive, as a liquid it's corrosive, and as a gas it's toxic. In crude oil it is bonded to the hydrocarbons and is not free to do its damage. Not until the combustion process is it free to do its dirty work. Lower sulfur levels is a good thing because during combustion it steals oxygen from the air that could be used to burn the fuel. Thus, all high sulfur fuels have more emissions than low sulfur fuels.
The oil industry uses a process called hydrotreating to remove the sulfur from the crude. The problem is this process also breaks up the larger hydrocarbon molecules that provide diesel fuel with its ability to lubricate. By 1995 the refiners had retuned and improved the hydrotreating process and the fuel pump problems stopped from poor fuel lubricity.
The seal failure problem that several fuel pump manufacturers had was due to a group of hydrocarbons called polynuclear aromatics. These are large joined aromatic ring type molecules that sort of resemble a random honeycomb. These aromatics have a swelling effect on certain types of rubber O-rings. The hydrotreating process broke up the large aromatics and reduced the fuels ability to lubricate and keep those O-rings swelled up. During the years 90-95 the fuel pump companies and the oil refiners were all blaming each other for the problem. Big oil said the fuel pump guys put the wrong O-rings in its pumps. The fuel pump guys all whined about poor fuel quality. Behind the backs of everybody the oil guys adjusted the hydrotreating process, and the fuel pump guys redesigned the seals in their fuel pumps. Both sides still blame each other today.
When I had the fuel injectors rebuilt in the wife's 85 MB 300D at a local diesel injection repair shop last March, I talked to the shop owner about fuel pump failures from low sulfur fuel. The owner told me he made lots of money in the early 90s replacing pump seals. The fix was to use seals made of Viton which is more immune to fuel quality. Most pump failures now are due microscopic grit and water damage from neglected fuel filters. Any older diesel that has not suffered a seal or O-ring failure by now probably will not, not from low fuel lubricity anyway. As far as the Bosch pumps used by MB and VW, the guy replaces dozens of injector nozzles a year but works on maybe one or two fuel injection pumps. That should tell you something about
what wears out first.
I use fuel additives but not specifically for lubricity and definitely not to protect seals and O-rings because it won't happen. I want the cetane booster, water dispersant, anti-jell, detergents, etc. The lubricity additives are just a given. In another year or so the ASTM will have the new lubricity specifications sorted out and it will become part of the diesel fuel standards. But I repeat myself, it will be for scuffing limits, not seal or O-ring compatibility. My advice, don't worry about it because it won't happen."
"The cetane number measures the ignition quality of a diesel fuel.
It is the % volume of cetane ( n-hexadecane, Cetane Number = 100 ) in
alpha methyl naphthalene ( Cetane Number = 0 ), that provides the specified standard of 13 degrees ( crankshaft angle ) ignition delay at the identical compression ratio to that of the fuel sample. These days, heptamethyl nonane - with a Cetane Number of 15 - is used in place of alpha methyl naphthalene because it is a more stable reference compound.
It is measured in special ASTM variable compression ratio test engine that is closely controlled with regard to temperatures ( coolant 100C, intake air 65.6C ), injection pressure ( 1500psi ), injection timing 13 degrees BTDC, and speed (900rpm ). The compression ratio is adjusted until combustion occurs at TDC ( the ignition delay is 13 degrees ). The test is then repeated with reference fuels with five cetane numbers difference, until two of them have comporession ratios that bracket tthe sample. The cetane number is then determined by interpolation, and the higher the Cetane Number, the shorter the delay between injection and ignition. Now, if the fuel is pure hydrocarbons ( does not contain cetane number improving agents like alkyl or amyl nitrates ) then the cetace number can be predicted fairly well using some physical properties, such as boiling point and aniline point.
It's obvious from the above that the higher the cetane number ( 100 = normal alkane, 15 = iso-alkane ), then the lower the octane number ( 100 = iso-alkane, 0 = normal alkane ). This is because the desirable property of gasoline to prevent knock is the ability to resist autoignition, whereas for diesel, the desirable property is to autoignite. The octane number of normal alkanes decreases as carbon chain length increases, whereas the cetane number increases as the carbon chain length increases. Many other factors also affect the cetane number, and around 0.5 volume % of cetane number improvers will increase the cetane number by 10 units. Cetane number improvers can be alkyl nitrates, primary amyl nitrates, nitrites, or peroxides.
In general, aromatics and alcohols have low cetane numbers ( that's why people using methanol in diesels convert it to dimethyl ether ).One of the obvious effects of running on low cetane number fuel is the increase in engine noise.
Typically engines are designed to use fuels with Cetane Numbers of 40-55, because below 38 a more rapid increase in ignition delay. The significance of the cetane number increases with the speed of the engine, and large, low speed diesel engines often only specify viscosity, combustion and contaminant levels, as Cetane Number requirement of the engine is met by most distillate and residual fuels that have the appropriate propeties. High speed diesel engines ( as in cars and trucks ) virtually all are designed to accept fuels around 50 Cetane Numbers, with higher numbers being a waste.
However, Cetane Number is only one important propety of diesel fuels, with three of the others being also very important. Firstly, the viscosity is important because many injection systems rely on the lubricity of the fuel for lubrication. Secondly, the cold weather properties are important, remember that normal alkanes are desirable, but the desirable diesel fraction alkanes have melting points above 0C temperature, so special flow-enhancing additives and changes to the hydrocarbon profiles occur seasonally.
That's why it's never a good idea to store diesel from summer for winter use. Thirdly, diesel in many countries has a legal minimum flash point ( the minimum temperature it must attain to produce sufficient vapours to ignite when a flame is applied. In all cases it's usually well above ambient ( 60C+, kerosine is 37C+, whereas gasoline is typically below -30C ), and anybody mixing a lowert flash point fraction with diesel will usually void all insurance and warranties on the vehicle. The recent increase in blending fuels has resulted in significantly more frequent analyses of fuel tank contents from diesel vehicle fires.
From all of the above, you can see some common factors emerging, larger normal alkanes are desirable, and they also burn with a less smoky flame and have higher flash points than gasoline and kerosine, making them also desirable for home heating fuels, however the relatively expensive Cetane Index improvers have no value in heating fuels.
Most engines show an increase in ignition delay when the cetane number is decreased from around 50 to 40, with an increase of 2 degrees being typical, and minimal advantages accrue of lower CN fuels are used.
Heating oils are often a slightly different fraction, and may have differing additives ( for cleaner combustion ) to fuels used for high speed diesel engines. For low speed ( large, stationary and marine engines ), they often use the cheapest residual fuel oil availble, as do the larger heating boilers - so there is commonality of fuel as size
increases.
Details of the important, specified properties of various grades ( 1D, 2D, 4D ) of diesel fuel oils can be found in the Annual Book of ASTM Standards. ASTM D975-93 " Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils", as can the fuel oil specification for grades 1, 2, 4, 5, and 6 in " Standard Specification for Fuel Oils ASTM D 396-92. Note that ASTN D975-93 actually defines the low temperature requirements by dividing the USA into regions. It is possible for
a fuel to meet both specifications, but the diesel specification may have additional requirements such as Cetane Number and Cloud Point( temperature at which the fuel goes cloudy ), whereas the Fuel Oil may have additional limits on the distillation properties, and viscosity at 100C. A fuel has to be tested for all the criteria in each specification grade before it can be said to comply with the relevant grade in each specification.
The interchanging and dilution of fuels is performed by
suppliers, taking into account the effect on all of the above, but especially flash point, as that is closely regulated in many countries. Adding kerosine and
Some of the oil will get sucked off the filter during normal driving. This will tend to coat the entire intake plenum. (including the sensitive MAF sensor)
If you do some research on the failure-modes of a MAF sensor, you will find a bunch of micro-photographs that show the surface of the MAF gets burned up when coated with oil.
Besides, the VW filter has been PROVEN to filter better than any "oiled guaze" type of air filter. (just keep your snowscreen clean)
SURPISE!! The snowscreen will plug up faster than your air-filter. (I clean my snowscreen about 2 times annually... while airfilter will go at least 20K miles)
Best Regards,
Shipo
If an oil has the VW 505.xx certification printed on the lable... it HAD BETTER have gone thru the certification process. I beleive is is illegeal for them to print the certificaiton on the label without actually having one.
Dont forget that there are several motoroils available that FAR EXCEED the VW 505.xx certification but the oil-maker has opted to NOT pay for VW certificaion.
Mobil "DELVAC 1 5W-40" is an example.
Another example is a BRAND NEW oil "Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40" (API CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/CF-4/CF/SL/SJ)
Look for this new "Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40" in AutoZone and Wallmart by August.
You can always purchase VW certiified engineoil from http://www.worldimpex.com/ . Impex even sells the hard-to-find VW 506.01 certified oil. Another nice thing about worldimpex is that thry offer COMPLETE SERVICE KITS... for example, you can get a 40K mile service kit which contains ALL the filters, fluids and gaskets in one box. (even a new oil drain plug as required by VW specs!)
It all depends upon the language... The folks at Amsoil have not actually said their oil meets any standard at all. Instead they play with the language by saying, "AMSOIL Synthetic European Car Formula is formulated to surpass the most demanding European specifications." Geez, I just "formulated" up a batch of brownies that should be the "World's Best". Are they? I think so. ;-)
Any manufacturer may think their products meet certain specs, however, until put to the test, they don't really know. Would I trust my car on an oil with iffy properties? Not a chance.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Does anyone know what company makes the VW oil? Mobil, Castrol.....??? Thanks.
That is for the 1.8L turbo GASOLINE engine. The TDI still has the 10K mile recommendation for oil/filter changes (page 7).
Sorry to have wasted your bandwith ... :-/
My question is this: next weekend my we will be taking a trip of about 900 miles. While I would love to drive the TDI, I have concerns, because roughly 750 miles will HAVE to be on expressways ... there are no reasonable alternatives on this trip (unless I want to increase the trip's mileage and drive time substantially).
Not using cruise control is not a problem. However we will have to make good time on this trip, and wide variations in the driving speed will likely not be possible much of the time.
As I understand it from reading the new-TDI break-in posts, I would probably be better off using our other car and waiting until I have more miles on the TDI before doing a long, sustained-speed drive like this one will have to be.
Any suggestions or recommendations on this would be greatly appreciated - I got my previous diesel when it had about 90Kmiles on it, so I don't really have any experience with the break-in period.
Thanks.
DL
Now that it's all fixed, I downloaded my recent car data and I've got two error codes. I know what they say, but I don't know what they mean and I'm not sure whether I need to be concerned about them.
They are:
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "C" Circuit
High Input
Anyone know what I'm faced with?
Thanks