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Comments
I just purchased a Honda Odyssey Ex. And wonder what type of gasoline should I put. The sales person sold the van said put the cheapest gasoline because it all the same.
Thanks
Honda Carland in Alpharetta GA finally replaced my squeaky,grinding rear brake drums with the updated drums. (maybe wearing the low cut shirt helped after all)
At first they informed me they did not honor the Honda Care Extended warranty as the original. I replied the Extended warranty covered everything exactly as the original. This is how it was sold to me.
Then they replied that I had to call Honda (regional-corporate) to get the repair approved. I told them that was their job considering I have always been a good customer from day 1 of receiving my vehicle and finally, I was very unhappy with their treatment.
I called Honda and within hours the dealer called back and told me they would do the repair at no charge to me. ($250) The dealer would pay the labor and Honda paid for the parts.
Now, if only Honda developed a better,longer lasting brake pad for the front brakes, I'd be a very happy woman.
P0524 - no decription and P0118 Engine Cooling Temp Circuit High Input. At the same time the TCS light stayed lit for longer than normal after start up. Now also get P0481 Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfuntion.
Anyone else experience this ? Any good web sites to help me work through diagnosing components and repairing? Any good diagnostic guides out there?
I have Chilton's manual but it isn't this specific.
Thanks!!
That's why I traded my 99 Odyssey in on a Toyota. After 21 days in the shop and 3 replacement transmissions before they got one worth installing, I lost confidence.
If there is nothing in the DVD player, you can only select AUX input. If there is a DVD inserted, then either DVD or AUX may be selected.
I tried everything I could, but was unable to cause ghosting or any other kind of distortion when the DVD player was supplying input to the LCD screen. I tried a camcorder on/off in the AUX jacks, and it didn't make any difference at all to the DVD sourced images. Of course, there was still ghosting on the AUX sourced images with or without anything in the DVD player.
I'm starting to wonder if the A/V jack inputs on the LCD are grounded to anything other than themselves. That might explain why only the AUX inputs exhibit ghosting (except when I use a straight DC plug, and then I only get rolling bands).
I really need to find time to test out some other Odysseys. I also need to check out the Sienna, and Grand Caravan installed packages to see if they behave any better.
-merscwog
if the DVD input source was "active", it would most surely stomp on any secondary EMF riding on it, but if the source was the AUX inputs, maybe secondary induction on the DVD cable because of the length of the cable run?
any chance to disconnect that input (at the display) so that all you're running into the thing is your aux input, power, and control signals?
i realize there has to be power comming into the display, and I presume a control signal that says "switch between DVD source and AUX source". I doubt the aux inputs run up to the front of the car, and then back to the display...but since I don't own one, I suppose you'd check that too (ie, when you switch between the sources, where is the switching being done (at the display) or at the head-end unit?
does this make any sense?
I guess, you'd have to see if the dealer were willing to dis-mount one of these things, and inpsect / let you see if there isn't a DVD input you could unplug (at the display) to run another test with your camcorder.
If you could disconnect it, and if your aux input was then displayed as expected, then perhaps the issue is with a long cable run between the head-end and the display.
sorry, I'm only guessing. ((for all i know, maybe the head end is converting DVD into a 1volt p-p signal on an RCA cable)). Yikes.
good luck.
From a yahoo message board, I've gotten confirmation from a 2003 and a 2004 EXL Ody owner that both have clear displays when using a camcorder. There is another 2003 poster who seems to have had similar problems as myself, but I haven't heard back from that person.
I think I'm at the point where the only thing I can do is find another Ody where there is no problem (using my equipment) and then demonstrate the poor visual quality in my van. Now it's just a matter of having time and hauling around a few test devices.
-merscwog
(BTW, the fuse is "Clock Backup". auburn63 did post a correction few messages later)
Thanks auburn63
==== how to re-learn the doors ===========
Start with the doors fully closed. In the passenger side under dash fuse box remove the 4th fuse in on the top row, note the clock should go out when fuse is removed. Leave out for 30 seconds. Reinstall fuse, using the door buttons on the dash relearn one door at a time by pushing the door button and holding it until the door is fully open, then push and hold the close button until it is fully closed. Then repeat for the other door. Now try them and they should work normally. It is also a good idea to clean your door contacts with a pencil eraser every now and then..Good luck
======================
Steve, Host
DTC P0118-'99-00, '02-03 Models: ECT Sensor Circuit High Voltage
NOTE: Information marked with an asterisk (*) applies to '02-03 models.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
The other two codes didnt come up while looking for them so I would try and diag this one first, also make sure your coolant is full, Good luck,
Check the ECT with the scan tool.
Is -4 ºF (-20 ºC) or less (or L-Limit in Honda mode of PGM Tester), or 5 V indicated? YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the ECT sensor and the PCM.n
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the ECT sensor 2P connector.
Connect ECT sensor 2P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Check the ECT with the scan tool.
Is -4 ºF (-20 ºC) or less (or L-Limit in Honda mode of PGM Tester) or 5 V indicated? YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Replace the ECT sensor.n
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Remove the jumper wire.
Connect PCM connector terminals C18 and C26 with a jumper wire.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
Check the ECT with the scan tool.
Is -4 ºF (-20 ºC) or less (or L-Limit in Honda mode of PGM Tester), or 5 V indicated? YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If normal ECT readings are indicated, replace the original PCM.n
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (C18, C26) and the ECT sensor.n
Windshield, rearview mirror, and driver’s side mirror all had to be replaced due to huge distortions. New windshield NO BETTER!
Here’s the best part, the dealership says, “We drove it, & it didn’t happen to us. You must come drive w/us to prove it.” WE DID... Now they say, we admit there is a problem, but we don’t know what’s causing it, and if we don’t know what’s causing it, we can’t fix it... Here’s your car back!!!! All done very politely, but still a smokescreen to avoid responsibility. We have a brand new $30,000 car that we’re afraid to drive w/our children.
Has anyone else out there had these specific problems? What was done to fix them? Any advice/suggestions on where to go from here with Honda Company? Thanks in advance for any ideas/help...
If other dealership can't give you satisfaction, I'd start contacting Honda Corporate. If they brought in a tech from CA, does this mean that the Honda Regional Rep is involved with the problem? If not, look in back of owner's/warranty manual, there should be a listing of contact numbers for your region. They are there in case you have warranty issues that dealer's having difficulty resolving.
Keep track of all your visits to dealer, keep & copy of all your work orders and receipts. Take copious notes on conversations, & phone calls with service people/managers. And start looking into the Lemon Law requirements for your particular state. You will need all of the documentation to back up your case. If you can present your case clearly, and logically to the Honda Rep
Most of all, try to stay calm about it. I realize $30K is not chump change, but if you go in screaming, people are less inclined to help you.
Why would you want to even take a chance of the airbags not working?
If the SRS light is on, theu means there is a good chance the airbags will not deploy.
You can assume they won't and any smart dealership employee will tell you that!
The condition of the battery has nothing to do with this!
When she called the dealer she was told not to worry about it.
I gave her VW's 800 number and the customer service person freaked and told her to get it to the dealer ASAP.
The dealer is expecting her :-)
Steve, Host
Of course, she drove a lot of cars a lot of years without airbags for that matter.
Still,I would want them to work. I wouldn't guess or just hope that
they would deploy if needed.
I've never heard of a battery swap triggering an airbag light to come on but I guess it's possible.
I have seen a few problems that act as yours that ended up being the EGR valve lift sensor giving out incorrect readings to the computer. One other thought that I have seen in S2000s that act this way is bad connections at the map sensor. As for the hesitation taking off is this from a dead stop or a rolling stop or reaccel without coming to a complete stop?
crissman
The SRS is not and should not be able to deploy with the SRS light on. Once the light is on the control unit stops communicating with its controllers which makes it disabled. A low battery condition can cause the SRS light to come on and unit to set a power failure code or SRS unit failure code. These codes can be reset by a manual procedure or by a Honda diag tool.
All help appreciated
Thanks
markmiller_99@hotmail.com
NHTSA
Steve, Host
You, Your Vehicle and the Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
Steve, Host
Gently close the hatch. Now grasp spoiler from the sides and lift it gently upwards. Bolts are captive in the spoiler, so you may have
to wiggle assembly to get spoiler to come away from hatch. Be careful not to scratch up the back of the van.
Loose rubber strip can be glued back on with automotive gasket cement available at autoparts stores. Give glue time to set, then reinstall spoiler in reverse order of above.
Any comments will be appreciated.
They hit you for their time to do the diagnosis. Since it isn't a repair, it's not covered.
If you have an extended waranty since they all are a little different most places will get diag time first in case of non coverage by the extended warranty company.
If you have a emissions extension warranty (95 V6, 96-97 all except passport) and it is still valid then again it is the same as the regular warranty their should be no charge as long as their is a failed part due to the fact that the extension will not cover wire or connector problems it must be a component failure.
If the vehicle is found to have a bad catalytic converter or a bad ECM/PCM then the diag time should be returned as they are covered for 8yr/80k on most Hondas.
One other exception is if the vehicle is in the EGR extension which is also 8yr/80k on certain models.
So as you can see with so many options and conditions most places try to get the money first then return it if it is under one of the warranties as a covered component.
Also, has anyone experienced the infamous "skreeching-rear-drums-when-coming-to-a-stop-problem" and replaced the drums themselves? I've been blessed with this problem and am considering purchasing the new drums (P/N 42610-S0X-305, I believe)and replacing myself but first would like to hear if someone else has done this and whether it solved the problem? At 109,000 miles, I'm not going to even attempt a "goodwill consideration." (Maybe if I was 20-yr-old co-ed). Anyone know what the drums cost?
Just FYI: I've had my EGR Valve and Sleeve replaced and cleaned about every 35K for about $200.00 per trip. I'm a pro now: Engine light comes on, have dealer order part, take van in, replace. Honda really blew that one.
Also, I've never had any transmission problems (yet). Interesting it affects some but not others.
Thanks to anyone that can assist. Mark
I haven't had any problem with the brakes on my 2000.
Hope that helps some.
The procedure for turning off the maint rqd light is there. It goes something like this: hold down trip meter reset stalk and turn ignition to the on position. Hold until light goes out. This may not be it exactly so as I noted - RTM.
Also, it's not a marketing tool. It's designed to come on every 7,500 miles to remind you to do the minimum recommended service in order to maintain good working order or your warranty at a minimum.