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Comments
Even if it doesn't trigger the Check Engine Light it does cause idle problems.
Not sure if it makes the car run leaner or richer all the time when its too old. Also you won't pass Smog Check if it's not working properly and it will destroy your catalytic converter faster.
I've just bough a used 2005 corolla LE auto. Every time I accelerate from a stationary position, I notice that the car does not respond quickly enough and it seems that it needs some persuasion to move. Previously had a Buick auto and it was always smooth and had an amazing pick-up. Is there some maintenance that I have do on the vehicle that would solve this problem? I have an oil change due after 500 miles.
Thanks,
Nash
I have a 2002 Corolla with 80,000 miles. Replaced the OEM 175 tires (Firestone) at 48,000 miles with 185 (Firestone Potenza) tires.
The tires are getting worn very fast with only 32k ,miles as opposed to the 65k mile life. My front left tire gets most worn.
I do get tire rotated at costco per schedule.
Does Corolla eat tires a lot ?
What could be the reason:
Bad alignment?
Bad suspension?
What is a good quiet tire model for the corolla? The bridgestones are horrible (maybe its the bad sound insulation in corolla..) and have lot of highway tire noise after 70 mph.
Costco manager said he might give pro-rated discount the Michelin Mx4 they are currently carrying..How good is that?
Im new to these forums, but I tried searching and coudn't find anything about my problem... Also Im a noob when it comes to repairing cars...
When I go to try to cold start my corolla, It turns over a good 5-10 times and then fires for about half a second and dies at which point the alarm is activated (but without the horn going off) (There is also a strange clicking noise as the engine light blinks on and off)... I have to then click the unlock button on my keychain before trying to start it again b/c it wont turn over... and if I take the keys out the alarm goes off fully.
I showed my dad who suggested battery issues, but it wouldn't make sense
After about 2-3 cycles of this the car finally turns over and starts... runs normal once started... Also, it only turns over 2-3 times if the car has run within the last 30 minutes and the engine is hot... it might repeat the cycle 0-3 times.
Other strange occurrences:
> I have an aftermarket stereo that has since begun asking me to enter the security code once the car has started... Didn't start happening till this issue came up... And it only happens ~75% of the time.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
see, it's possible your alarm and also radio are getting into an initialized state because the voltage is dropping very low, below some threshold when you are trying to start the car.
is it very cold where you live? do you run only short distances with the car lately? (vehicles need to be driven some distance at speed for the alternators to re-charge the battery).
if the alternator of the battery were marginal, it's possible when the starter is engaged, it's pulling too much current and causing the system to drop voltage very low.
then again, perhaps you have some issue with the fuel pump failing to supply adequate pressure to the fuel rail.
have you tried turning your vehicle to the on/acc position for a few seconds, say the count of 5 or 10 before you turn it all the way to start? that might give the pump a better chance to prime the system and get pressure to the fuel rail.
good luck.
bhasin: I don't believe that Bridgestone Potenzas are 65K-mile tires, and I wouldn't be surprised if their average life is more like 40K miles, so you are probably doing about as expected with that brand. They are noisy tires though. If the tires are not wearing evenly, that is usually an alignment issue (they ARE all the same size though, right?)
The Michelin is a good tire but even with a discount may cost you more than the Bridgestones cost new. I would stay with the Bridgestones until they are worn out. And I am curious why the Costco manager is so eager to offer you discounts on Michelins. There may be something fishy there...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
very good point. poor wiring, causing one or the other to short out could be at root cause. even if fused, it could still be causing a short. were these recently added to the vehicle?
Thanks.
The dealership whose staff work on Corollas all day long tell you that the noise is the solenoid, but you don't believe that. Instead you come to a forum such as this and are prepared to accept a total stranger's opinion.
Well here's my opinion from your description. I think you both need new engines.
Other members if someone got an idea.. please advise. :sick:
a little red light on below dashboard and steering wheel.
He says he took out a "key" like they use in motel rooms,
that look like credit cards. Somebody told him to do this
so car couldn't be stolen. But....he can't find the card "key". :confuse: Help!!! what is this about? I never saw the light on before. What to do? magi
He needed a reliable car or I'd never have given her up!
I was surprised to get different diagnosis in the same week from two different facilities. Have any one of you ever experienced this where the toyota dealer is wrong in his diagnosis? :surprise:
I presume the person is using an OBD-II (On Board Diagnostic II "reader").
Thanks
Anyhow, he has a beater (well...looks more like showroom new) '84 Corolla RWD Coupe. He says he's having a helluva time finding winter steelies (steel rims) for his winter tires. He says the specs are really unique. He's sending me the specs tomorrow. He found this out when the tire shop where he bought his winter tires sold him steelies that didn't fit quite right. They rub on the inside. Are the specs really that unique?
Since then, he's tried every tire shop and bone yard in the city he lives in and has resorted to the wrecking yard network search but is still having trouble finding some. He found some at a wrecker in my home town that I'll check out and pick up, but he needs to find 2 more at least.
Does anyone know of a Toyota specific pick n pull or someplace that I could direct him to or maybe give him the correct specs? Any info you guys can provide would be very much appreciated.
Do you give this type of helpful advise all the time? If you don't have anything constructive to say, then don't say it at all.
I was hoping to find other people out there that may know what the problem could be since I don't trust most dealerships. Example: I had a problem with VW shops where I would get two totally different answers from different shops about the same issue. One said there was no problem, the other said it would cost $350 to repair it. At that point, who do you trust since they work on VW's all day long.
And if I did get a stranger's opinion on this, I would look into it further and not accept it at face value. Basically I am doing research. This is what smart people do.
Dealerships have you cornered when it comes to stuff like this because they control everything and the auto makers don't make things easier by making cars simple like they used to. So you have to rely on the dealer shops to keep you informed and be truthful, which I believe in 90% of the cases they are not when it comes to repairs other than oil changes.
If an engine cranks over but doesn't start up, that's one thing. But if it doesn't even crank over, that's another.