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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    Are you able to disconnect the cd player completely as a first check? It was the change made and then after that you noted the problem. Logical move.

    Alternators have been known to allow a drain on battery. So have starters.

    Not sure just how the wiring logic is on your car but some have had problems with the rear strut load-leveling compressor running even if the car is off. You might pull the fuse for it temporarily. Do you notice the compressor cutting on while driving indicating the struts or lines may be leaking?

    Also the automatic blower speed control, the blower control module, can be on after the car is off--if your car has the digital temperature control. However, I would believe it would be on immediately even if the key is off. The modules fail in different ways.

    Beyond that you're down to checking for a drain and I believe that's 30 milliamperes or more. I can't guarantee that as the maximum normal drain because I'm recalling that value from memory for the H-bodies where people have checked.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • mem454mem454 Posts: 2
    find who traided keys with you !
  • mem454mem454 Posts: 2
    Hi! I'm Mike. Does anyone have any idea how a serpentine belt goes on a 1998 Buick PK. \ Ave. 3.8L. ? There is no sticker on the car to show how to put it on. Can someone PLEASE send or post me a pitcher or something that looks like how it's sapose to go on? I'm new at this forum stuff i don't know post a pitcher or not, I thank you so much! Mike..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Wow that link contained a lot of different diagrams! (but none of them match mine)

    Here's what mine looks like:
    diagram: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2698621300105698750ZGDjuw
    picture: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2999066120105698750gRPVZQ

    If you haven't removed your belt yet, make a diagram. If you have, I'm sure you've figured out what a pain it is to remove the lower motor mount to replace the belt. That design flaw was fixed in the 2000 model I think, it is a 5 minute swap on the later models.

    On the other hand, you may just be replacing a component like the alt or water pump.

    Hope this helps.
    :)
  • bought a radio from junk yard and theft deterrant is active. is there anyway to disable when you don't know existing code. the code is possibly same as set by factory but i don't know that either. any help appreciated.

    i have factory service manual for 95 PA. from all i read, buick radios from 95 to 2000 are compatible. in that case, assuming that 95 FSM instructions are applicable, i have the procedure for disabling theft deterrant system. however, the radio was purchased off the shelf from the junk yard so i don' t know the VIN the radio was taken from. as i understand it, dealer will not tell factory code if they don't have VIN.

    i would just return radio to JY for credit but it has features i was looking for (dvd player and cd casette player).
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Here's a place that says they'll do it, but whether it's a scam or not, I have no idea.

    UNLOCK RADIO CODES
  • i am going to give the site a try. will post results later for future reference. thanks a bunch.
  • with reference to my previous post, the site is legitimate. they charge $7.00 for help in determining your radio theft deterrant code. they also provide instructions on how to go about entering the code.

    they were not able to help me because my radio had an additional malfunction but they are refunding my cost voluntarily.

    my thanks to Mr. Shiftright for steering me to the site. the site is radio-code.com.
  • The car is the 3.8 series 2, after cranking, the car idle changes rpm from around 800 to 1200 and back, then while in park or drive it has a shutter at 4000 rpms.The fuel hand rises to full and then back to correct. The parts I can say are good are fuel and air filter, plugs and plug wires. Of course the engine light is on, we have 148273 miles. I've read all the forums and eliminated any vacuum leaks or cracks in intake or gas in vacuum lines, haven't bothered to get codes checked out yet. I consider myself pretty proficient at auto repair but not not on computer type engines. Any help will be appreciated and I promise to post what fixes it. Please include an idea of where to find the part on the motor. Thanks
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Can you check the fuel pressure throughout the RPM range?

    Are the battery connections good and clean and tight? If the connections are good, and the fuel gauge needle is erratic and bouncing around, that would seem like a possible sender unit going bad. This is found inside the tank, attached to the fuel pump.
  • I held the rpm at 3800 to see if it was just running out of enough fuel pressure and it ran ok, if u rev quickly to 4K it still breaks down at that rpm, do u know where egr valve is and any other thing is that i can take off and clean? Cables are fine, another clue is the wife said her gas mileage went down before the skip, also 1 of the plug wires shorted out to manifold, wife took it to shop and they wanted $ 480 something for a tune-up and mass air flow sensor, i just brought it home and replaced plug wire and it ran fine for 2 weeks, could be a damaged coil, is there a way to ohm it out?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    When you are revving in neutral the limiter cuts in much sooner to protect the motor. Is that what's happening?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I haven't really checked to see if it's doing the sputter at 4k in drive but it does sputter at some rpm, in truth the fuel hand has been on the blink for about 6 months and also the oil pressure has read 128psi and i know that ain't right, figured the computer was erratic.
  • you guys were right about sputter at 4k being the limiter, still have rough idle and run though, anyone know where the MAF and EGR are located?
  • The problem turned out to be the spark plug wires, I cleaned the MAF, EGR, and took off the throttle position sensor and there was nothing there to clean, all these things were what Advance Autos code reader called out along with multible mis-fires. Thanks for the help especially the rev- limiter ones.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    Thanks for the reply about what you did find as your problem. Those of us who try to give remote help appreciate the feedback. It's not the first time the rev limiter has fooled someone so I hoped that was what you were noticing; it's cheaper than a real problem!!!

    Spark plug wires seem to be a very common factor in problems on the 3800's. Replacing them with Belden or other OEM quality wires helps. Also replacing the plugs with the AC Delco replacement saves trouble in the end. Occasionally someone has other plugs and switching back fixes the problem. There are some who run NGK plugs who are successful in the Bonneville groups.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • yunghillyunghill Posts: 3
    i have problems with my rare reatta i know i have a small crack in my exsaust manifold i put some sealer onit but all of a sudden it sounds like a truck and it sutters when i take off and it lose power on incline like the transmission and sparks aint on the same page????i need help please i heard it could be my something moduleor crank censer but i dunno
  • yunghillyunghill Posts: 3
    i have problems with my rare reatta i know i have a small crack in my exsaust manifold i put some sealer onit but all of a sudden it sounds like a truck and it sutters when i take off and it lose power on incline like the transmission and sparks aint on the same page????i need help please i heard it could be my something moduleor crank censer but i dunno
  • patnjoepatnjoe Posts: 4
    I have a 1996 Buick Park Avenue. I need to replace the driver's power window motor. How do I remove the window control switch panel in the driver's armrest without breaking off the black plastic tabs on the ends that secure it in place? Thanks for your help.
    Regards, Joe
  • I have a '97 Buick Park Ave and I need to replace the turn signal switch. I read that you suggested replacing the whole column in a previest post. When you say the "whole column" does that include all of the steering wheel assembly? I'm a DIY'er and want to take the path of least resistance.

    Further, I have not purchased a replacement of any kind, yet. So, I'm looking to do this I hope, without having to buy any specialty tools. If I go with the whole column does the airbag present any special experience/knowledge requirements in order to get the job done?

    I would appreciate your opinion. Thanks, Tom
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    edited June 2010
    I have not replaced or worked on a steering column.

    Does your key have the resistor chip on the throat of the key or is the coding in the plastic part of the key for the 97 Park Avenue?

    If it's the resistor chip in the key throat, then changing the steering column would mean you'd have to bypass the VATS system reading that chip or replace the lock cylinder in the new column with the lock cylinder from the old one so that the resistor chip will work. There are 15 resistances used. It's unlikely the new column would have the same resistance as your old key did,but it's possible.

    The airbag system must be disabled in advance before working anywhere.

    My personal opinion, is I'd take it to a local, but reputable mechanic whom others hve recommended and see how much to replace the turn signal switch.

    If you are a do it yourself, you might want to invest in a factory service manual by Helm. This is NOT a Motors or Helm manual. It is not the DVDs that are mass sold on Ebay.

    Doing a search for service manual 1997 park avenue:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Buick-Park-Avenue-Shop-SERVICE-Manual-Repair- - -SET-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad9bd8ef5QQitemZ390200135413QQptZMotorsQ5fManu- - alsQ5fLiterature

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Buick-Park-Avenue-Service-Shop-Manual-Set-_W- - 0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2983388cQQitemZ400128424076QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fL- - iterature

    Item number: 400128424076
    item number: 310177918225

    Above are two links to a real factory service book set and the Ebay item numbers.. Notice it's two volumes. Some are selling one volume at a time. One includes shipping, other doesn't

    If you price the volume at helminc.com, it will probably be $130 plus handling plus shipping.

    Also you can use Alldata at many libraries now on their computers free. You can save copies of the pages to a USB memory stick saving as internet explorer files with all files or you can save individual pictures. You can also print out pages on their printers. Check with your local library and if it's not larger and not affiliated with a neighboring system where you can go use your card to access their online data bases, ask them where the closest system is that has online access you can get to.

    I prefer a hard copy of the book in my hot little hands to lay on the fender or trunk lid while I work. Some people have bought DVDs with info from GM databases on them. I bought one and never could get it to work.

    You can vary the search words on Ebay such as buick instead of Park Avenue and you might hit one that's not in the category I found.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • 265,000 mile Park Ave outstanding condition (except for the following problem)
    Prior to this, no issues no codes no nothing but a good car.
    -Drove 20 miles, ABS light came on, went out about a minute later.
    -Few minutes later the Volt light came on, went out about a minute later 3-5 miles.
    -A minute later all Dash Lights and Gauges went out.
    -A few minutes later it acted like it was missing or it was sputtering poor acceleration, a minute later that went away and it ran good and able to accelerate good, still no dash lights or gauges.
    -Turned blinker on and all lights and gauges came on.
    -A minute later they went off
    -Blinker thing happened three times.
    -During de-acceleration turned blinker on and the car killed.
    -no crank no lights no nothing.
    -Got it home, put charge on the dead battery and the car started.
    -Changed Alternator.
    -Same thing happened but in 10 miles.
    -Brought to a shop, no code, low battery, load tested battery it's good, charged battery car started, no codes, 13.1 at the battery 12.5 inside the car with all the stuff running.
    -Put another Alternator in, gave 14 at the battery.
    -SAME THING happened this morning,
    I GOT NOTHING no codes my mechanic is working on it and I thought I would do some digging, the only spot he did not check yet is under the back seat, not sure if this is a heat issue or what is going on. Any help would be appreciated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    Check connections to that battery. Check grounds at the floor pan under the seat. Make a fresh connection to bare metal. Check connections if the positive lead goes to a fuse/relay box under the hood.

    Time for a new battery in my opinion.

    Does this car have a heavy current using amplifier in it by any chance?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Thanks for all your info -- especially the tip about AllData at the library. I'll have to ck that out. I've talk to a few people who have said replacing the turn signal switch is a DIY repair BUT that it can present some challenges like disconnecting and connecting the wire harness plug under the dash at the base of the column. I've looked at the setup under there and it will require some tight finger work.

    I was able to locate a few salvage yards that have a switch that will fit. prices range from $75 and up.

    I think it best I go to the library first before putting $$'s into this project.

    Thanks again for your help!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Never underestimate the value of very long nose pliers.
  • patnjoepatnjoe Posts: 4
    I need to install new front struts in my 95 Park Avenue. I have about 100K miles. I have read the Haynes book and the job does not look that difficult. I am very capable. Info on any tips or land mines would be greatly appreciated. Should I replace the corrugated boots, strut mounting plate / bearing, and donuts while I have everything apart? I plan to keep the car about another 100K miles. Thanks for your help.
    Regards, Joe
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Definitely replace the strut mounts.
  • I have a problem with my cruise control on a 1997 Buick Park Avenue. It only works once in a while only. It sets (very rarely) but if I hit the brake it won't resume. Also once it is set, if I hit the resume control once to bump up my speed my accelerator wants to keep going to the mat. Any ideas out there? Thanks, Mike.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    >Hit the brake and it won't resume.

    That could be the brake switch at the top of the travel of the brake pedal. It pushes the switch in to tell the computer that the brake is not being depressed.

    Try lifting the pedal with your toe to make the connection. Without checking the schematic I believe there used to be a second path from brake disconnect and that was the third brake light in the rear window. Are those bulbs all lighted and working?

    >Hit resume

    That sounds like a problem inside the stalk for the turn signals, wiper, and the cruise controls. The stalk just pulls out or twists and comes out. The wire for it either has a connector at the top or is through the column to the bottom and has a connector. If it disconnects at the bottom pull a string up through the column with the old switch wire and use that to pull the new wire down through.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jt3219jt3219 Posts: 1
    My sisters 98 Park Ave gas and temp gauge not working on her insturment panel. Readout for odometer, trip meter, gallons left are fine. Anyone have any ideas?
  • aaj73aaj73 Posts: 2
    Hi everyone, I would like to ask about my hvac programmer issue. When I first got this car about three years ago, the owner had wired the blower motor into the parklamps, which in turn shorted out the power module. I replaced the module as well as the programmer, which I took from a 92 pa.This caused my climate controls to work right I.E. turning the blower motor on and off. I replaced the a/c compressor also cause the old one was cracked and leaking. When I went to recharge the system in accordance to the label affixed to the drier, the clutch on the compressor would only engage for about one to three seconds. The only code that I was able to retrieve from the ALDL link by jumping the A, B terminals indicated a low circuit at pressure switch, or low charge. While I was adding the freon the popoff valve at the compressor vented. I,m not sure if I need a new cycling switch, but at another site someone suggested replacing the expansion valve, any input would be greatly appreciated. This is by far the best forum site I've yet seen in relation to the info and attitudes of its participants, thank you. AAJ73
  • aaj73aaj73 Posts: 2
    Hi, I also wanted to ask anyone if they know how to get the trouble codes from a early model programmer on a 91 pa.Thanks.
  • What are the plastic tracks under the powers seat ? How can I get them to retract with the seat.
  • I have had this problem on my 98 park Ave when I bought it 1.5 years ago with the fuel gauge. I have also looked at other late 90's Parks with similar gauge issues. It is not uncommon.

    For me the needle on the gauge was below the "0" (or far left position of the gauge). I tried a few ways on the Web to fix it with little luck including a strong magnet. The way I fixed it was to partially disassemble the dash to get to the instrument cluster. I am NOT a mechanic but will try things with a $3.6K purchase price.

    I started dis assembly by pulling (by hand) on the wood trim on the dash to remove it (it popped off easily and exposed bolts to get to cluster) and went from there removing bolts/ screws as needed. When I got to the instrument cluster, I removed the clear plastic covering (Can't remember a few screws or bolts did it). Now I had access of the instrument cluster (which was still mounted in the dash).

    I moved with one of my fingers the gauge needle that was stuck counter clockwise to be to the zero "0" and it was and has remained fixed for 9 months.

    If you are not comfortable with this a mechanic should be able to do it easily since I am not a mechanic but like cars since a kid.

    Took me about 25 min start-to-finish and took a variety of small-sized (metric I believe) sockets.

    I assume all analog (circular) gauges can be fixed by this method.

    best
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    I believe some people have moved the needle back to position by using a magnet. I recall they said it had to be the right strength to be able to do that.

    I also recall people drilling a small hole in the plastic and using a paperclip bent properly pushed through the hole to mechanically move the needle back to position.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Recently my buick park ave had broke down... i had altenator tested...came back good...had battary tested...came back good...had starter tested...bad...so had it rebuilt...put starter back on car...jump started it due to dead battary..it started fine after allowing to charge..... it has now been bout 3 hours... i went back out to my car tried to start it and it makes the same noise as before... the batt was dead n makes a clickin noise...like its tryin but just dont have the power to get goin... my battary is only 1 yr n bout 3 months old... i dont know what to do next... these problems came out of nowhere.. no signs or symptoms...jus stopped starting one day....if u can help me please respond...
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    Batteries go bad. Cells can be bad. Posts can be cracked. New doesn't mean okay.

    Connections at batteries can corrode--check between the red positive cables if there is more than one.

    Did you run engine long enough to charge battery? Did you drive it an hour at least? Are you sure the alternator is charging? Running on a low battery you should be getting 15.5+ volts charging with a good voltmeter check at the battery terminals.

    I'd suggest having the battery charged--I believe Advance Auto Parts used to charge batteries for free as part of testing them. If the battery is bad, of course they'd like for you to buy one of theirs. They have good batteries and so do other stores.

    You may have a drain on the battery. A light staying on. The automatic blower fan module turning on even when the key is off keeping the heater fan running. And I believe on your car the compressor for the load-leveling rear struts can turn on when the key is off. The starter may have a drain in the solenoid since it was rebuilt you may have the same starter.

    The alternator can cause a drain.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Lot of good suggestions. One more, are the battery cables good and secure - both where grounded to engine and hot cable to starter? If you were jump starting in a typical style - hot cable to hot pole on your battery, and neg cable to block on your car, you could be bypassing your ground cable, and this wouldn't tell you if the cable is working properly.

    And you'd want to know that the person who tested your battery tested it with a load tester, not just a volt meter. It could show 12.5VDC with a meter, but when under load (such as turning a starter) it could drop to 10 volts or less.

    Definitely start your diagnosing by making sure the battery is well charged. Did you mean you left it running or charging for 3 hours? Or after it started, you turned it off and retried 3 hours later?

    I also agree with the age of battery isn't always a reliable indicator that it is good. I wish that were the case. But I've had some last 7 years, and others barely 1 year.

    Hope you already have it figured out by the time you read this, and can tell us what you found.

    If you know the battery is fully charged, (either by a battery charger or a long drive while you know the alternator is charging by showing 13.5-14.5V measured at the battery), and it's tested good by a load tester, and it still goes dead, then you will need to consider there may be a drain and we can go from there with more suggestions.
  • patnjoepatnjoe Posts: 4
    edited November 2010
    I had the same exact car (91 Ultra). These cars are notorious for getting corrosion between the two red cables at the battery, and you can't see it. I solved this problem PERMANENTLY by doing the following. Follow these instructions to the "T": Remove the + side battery bolt (8mm). Be sure to cover all adjacent areas with a big rag to prevent your tool from touching anything metal. Pull back both red plastic boots to fully expose the copper ring terminations (lugs).

    Using a WIRE brush scrub the daylights out of those lugs (all sides) using Permatex Battery Cleaner until they are very clean. It comes in a blue 5.75 ounce spray can, follow their instructions exactly. Dry off well. Inspect the lead donut spacer that goes between the 2 copper lugs. It is probably the original donut, and is probably flat and corroded. You may have a hard time finding this, go to a good alternator shop.

    Clean out the female threads on the battery with a good battery terminal brush. Buy Permatex Battery Protectant (same type can, purple spray). It is expensive, about $8 per can, but in working on cars for 40+ years I have never seen anything like this stuff, and have been using it for 15+ years.

    Buy TWO NEW battery bolts, they do wear out, especially the + side. HEAVILY spray all sides of both copper lugs, the battery female, and the lead donut during re-installation of all parts with the protectant stuff. The bolt does not have to be super tight because it's new, make it snug, it will bite well. After everything is re-assembled, spray everything again, soak it down good with the spray. Do the same thing to the negative side.

    You will NEVER have battery corrosion again, this stuff is fantastic. Note: if your battery terminals are dirty, you could have a good battery, good alternator, good everything, but the full charge will never get to the battery. It could start but then 5 miles down the road the engine will stall because the main computer that controls everything needs a certain voltage level, or it will shut off the car. Jumping or charging the battery in the car will not get past the corrosion.

    Also note that your welded-in battery tray will still corrode due to battery off-gassing. I have solutions to this if you need it. After doing all this, the car still stalls or won't start, you may have a drain. But the battery terminal cleaning MUST be the first step. Hope this helps, please let me know how you make out.

    Regards, Joe

    One final afterthought. I had a standard Sears Die Hard battery that lasted over 9 years in this car using this process, and I never had to clean the terminals twice. After doing this the first time, after several years I took the whole thing apart to inspect, and there was NO corrosion whatsoever. I did re-spray everything during re-assembly, but never inspected it again after that. Incredible stuff.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    Agree, of course. It's going to be troubleshooting to find the problem.

    However, we dont' know if the motor ran long enough and if it was charging the battery. How long does a car need to idle to get the battery charged up part way to reliable for the next start? An hour?

    But, a drain is most likely. I thought the name of the poster is familiar. He had a drain problem earlier with a CD player that was installed by a previous owner.

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef0b1ad/312#MSG312

    It becomes complicated with some of these aftermarkets if wired in wrong or with memories that are not wired right.

    I would suggest to the poster to tap on the solenoid on the starter gently with a hammer while someone turns the key to crank. He might practice in advance. I suspect the starter because it was rebuilt.

    I also suspect the battery. And the positive posts are primary to be checked as the next poster described.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Um... where to begin, well, when this issue started i had alt, and batt tested at auto zone, they fully charged over-night, and tested it again. still came back good. i dont know what kind of tester they used. i just know it came back good. After all that was tested i took starter in to have it rebuilt, they replaced the solenoid and something else. sorry i am a woman i dont remember all these names and things. but i am doing the best i can, beleive me. anyways, since starter was rebuilt, we jumped it after re-installing the starter. i left the car running for about 20 mins n then took it for a ride for about 10 mins. i left car off for about 2 hours and was right back to dead. i once again jumped it and took it for a long ride and it seems to be holding charge now but i also disconnect the batt everytime i get out of car. my rear load thingy is disconnected because it does stay on when car is off. i had this problem awhile ago and said screw it i am just un-hookin it. i am goiung to try the cleaning suggestion above in hopes that will help. i also thought it was my cd player too. but i have had this cd player in for over a year n never had an issue with it so i am doubting that.. except for the fact this cd player was in an auto accident a year ago, thinkin maybe a wire is lose or a short somewhere. i have no idea but i honesty think there is a key-off drain. not sure where or how but thats what many people have suggested so far. i have not had a isues since un-doing the batt after driving and its cold here in illinois.. figured if batt was bad then the cold would kill it too... but it hasnt. well, i'm going to try the cleaning and have batt re-tested the right way or what not... n then go from there.. thank u all for the help i really really do appreciate it.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    edited November 2010
    Hello again karmaboo,

    Sounds like you're doing everything right so far. If they charged it overnight and then tested, it sounds like they probably did a load test. And since you've found out that it doesn't drain when disconnected, you're on the right track. Something is getting grounded somewhere.

    It does get a bit trickier to find the component that is draining your battery. Sometimes it can confuse even experienced mechanics.

    I hope that cleaning up all the cable connections fixes it for you, but the fact that it doesn't drain when disconnected doesn't really sound like the earlier problem posted by patnjoe. That sounds like his problem was the battery wasn't being recharged. I wouldn't think that corrosion on one set of cables would cause a battery drain. Your battery is being discharged.

    If you are unbolting the battery cable every night, you will probably have other problems sooner or later, such as wearing out the threads on the battery or the bolt.

    This isn't the final solution, but until you find the parasitic drain, you may want to invest in a battery quick disconnect. I'm not sure if you have top or side post battery, but you can find disconnect switches at Walmart or any of your local autoparts stores such as these:

    knife switch side term disconnect

    thumb wheel side post disconnect

    thumb wheel top post disconnect

    You also may want to search for " parasitic battery drain ", there are a couple good sites that have illustrations and explanations.

    Some people have gone as far as running a battery cut off switch inside the car. Not a great solution, but works for some hunting trucks that don't get driven often. :)

    Last thought, to eliminate the radio as being the source of the battery drain, you could 1) pull the radio and drive it a couple days, or 2) pull any fuses that feed the radio. I'm not sure how the radio was wired when installed. They may have one wire getting power only when key is on, and another getting power full time (key off) to maintain radio memory.

    If the radio isn't the source, you can test for drain with a meter (according to those sites you're gonna find, and assuming you have a multimeter) Or you could always pull half the fuses and see if it happens, and then replace and pull the other half, etc. and narrow down the fuses. This would take a while to narrow it down, but it is one of the few things you can do without the proper diagnostic tools.

    Hope you get it! ;)
  • karmabookarmaboo Posts: 9
    edited November 2010
    Yesterday, when i was about to shut car off n disconnect batt...i pushed the off button for the heater... now, the heater kept blowin n even after i turned car off it stayed on...we disconnected the batt n did what we had to do... returned bout n hour later hooked up batt n the heater came right on n would not go off...unless we disconnect batt... we did put a shut off on batt so now i jus twist lil knob a little....all my gages read fine but now i would like to know what to do about this heater issue... i already think heater core was goin out... due to smokey mist or something that comes from dash vent sometimes while starting the car... this car has so many issues but engine is GOOD n car its self is too... jus sat 4 awhile n needs some TLC!!! pls any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    That's the blower control module. It replaces the resistors in older car types. It's a power transistor on a small circuit board. The circuit board, like the resistor strips of old, sticks down into the air stream in the heater duct. You locate it by following the power wires from the blower motor.

    I am assuming your model has the blower motor on the firewall and the module above it. Otherwise they are inside the car.

    If access is too tight to get to the BCM, the Maxifuse Center is held in by two screws and can be pushed up some with the slack in the wires to it and that gives you room.

    What is the mist like? Is it moisture from the AC running and condensing water in the AC case. Then when you start in the morning the moist air hits the cool windshield and condenses? Unless you use the VENT setting, the AC compressor runs down to 50 or 45 degrees. So it may be collecting moisture even though the ambient air is comfortable already.

    Or does it have the sickly sweet smell of coolant, that drips from the heater core and stays because there's no drain there? If you have a coolant seep, the GM recommended pellets can be put into the radiator. Crush them first and open radiator when car has cooled. Use a short plastic tube to siphon off a couple quarts then run car til thermostat should open. Dump in powder and drive to thoroughly mix throughout the system. The GM pellets are a ground organic material and seals small seeps where it tries to go through. They recommend 5 pellets on a clean system. I put in two or three after doing my drain, rinse, drain, three times which takes out the old coolant with its ground almond shells or whatever it is made of. You might seal the heater core with that without plugging it.

    It is possible the "smokey" mist is from the blower control module board overheating. It also could be from the brushes on the motor.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    edited November 2010
    Module is $138.79 rockauto.com plus shipping - 5% discount for using a number in the Where did you hear about us box, 43368333566713
    1572530 is the Delco part number

    Compatible blower control modules if try to use previously owned:

    UICK ELECTRA 1986
    BUICK ELECTRA 300 1985
    BUICK ELECTRA ESTATE WAGON 1989
    BUICK ELECTRA LIMITED (1987 - 1990)
    BUICK ELECTRA PARK AVENUE (1985 - 1990)
    BUICK ELECTRA PARK AVENUE ULTRA 1990
    BUICK ELECTRA T-TYPE (1985 - 1990)
    BUICK ELECTRA ULTRA 1989
    BUICK LESABRE (1987 - 1991)
    BUICK LESABRE CUSTOM (1986 - 1991)
    BUICK LESABRE ESTATE WAGON (1989 - 1990)
    BUICK LESABRE LIMITED (1986 - 1991)
    BUICK PARK AVENUE (1991 - 1993)
    BUICK PARK AVENUE ULTRA (1991 - 1993)
    BUICK REATTA (1988 - 1991)
    BUICK RIVIERA (1986 - 1991)
    BUICK RIVIERA T-TYPE 1986
    CADILLAC ALLANTE (1987 - 1991)
    CADILLAC DEVILLE (1985 - 1993)
    CADILLAC DEVILLE TOURING (1991 - 1993)
    CADILLAC ELDORADO (1986 - 1991)
    CADILLAC FLEETWOOD (1985 - 1992)
    CADILLAC FLEETWOOD 60 SPECIAL (1987 - 1992)
    CADILLAC FLEETWOOD 75 1986
    CADILLAC FLEETWOOD DELEGANCE (1987 - 1988)
    CADILLAC SEVILLE (1986 - 1991)
    CADILLAC SEVILLE STS (1990 - 1991)
    CHEVROLET CORVETTE (1986 - 1989)
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY (1986 - 1993)
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY BROUGHAM (1986 - 1990)
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY ELITE (1991 - 1993)
    OLDSMOBILE 98 REGENCY TOURING (1988 - 1993)
    OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 ROYALE (1986 - 1991)
    OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 ROYALE BROUGHAM (1986 - 1991)
    OLDSMOBILE TORONADO (1987 - 1991)
    OLDSMOBILE TORONADO BROUGHAM (1986 - 1987)
    OLDSMOBILE TORONADO TROFEO (1988 - 1991)
    PONTIAC BONNEVILLE LE (1988 - 1991)
    PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SE (1988 - 1991)
    PONTIAC BONNEVILLE SSE (1988 - 1991)

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Anyone know for sure the accepted parasitic drain for a 2005 park ave?? Mine is right at 50 milliamps which some say is OK but others say that is high. Cannot find specs to verify. Thanks for any help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,700
    Not a linkable figure, but reading other H-body forums for Bonneville and Buicks I recall the number 30 milliamperes ( 0.030 amp) as the acceptable number. I don't know if I have it in any of the factory service manuals here either.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited January 2011
    That should be okay. I think up to around 400 milliamps is workable but the "rule of thumb" is around 50, yeah.
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