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Ford Mustang (2004 and earlier)



  • v8power86v8power86 Posts: 1
    I've been reading these boards for a while now and never had a real reason to join until now. I know how much you guys hate kids having powerful muscle cars but i think i pretty much hold my own. Anyway I own a 2003 mustang gt..leather, mach 500 stereo, upgraded rims and all that other jazz. The car only has 2,225 miles on it. we payed a little over 21,000 for it. i think thats a great deal for a brand new mustang gt. Getting to the point I was driving home from the shore and got broad sided by a intoxicated driver. The damage is pretty severe and my dad said we'll get it fixed and sell it. So i'm looking at new cars but i'm really stuck, i love my mustang and its power but there are a few other cars out there i like. I have narrowed it down to either Acura tsx, Mazda rx8, 05 subaru legacy gt, or i would wait out for the 05 mustang gt. i was hoping i could maybe get some ideas from you guys. Also i was wondering if anyone has a new Mach 1 mustang and how much you pay in insurance, when i got my gt my dad said insurance would be too high for the mach 1 but i think he just didnt want me to have the extra 50 horsepower. thanks, tony.
  • dan1dan1 Posts: 76
    V8power86, I recently purchased an 01 Bullitt and a friend of mine just purchased a 99 Cobra Convert. There is not much difference in insurance even if you move up to the 03 Cobra's. We are both well beyond our teen years so that will make some difference. He actually went through GMAC for his insurance and said is was about half of what he was currently paying. I guess all you need is a current loan or credit card through them and there is a substantial discount. I know I am going to check is out.

    Now about replacing your car. If it were me I would find a nice used low mileage Mustang GT, save thousands, drive it for a few years until they work the bugs out of the new Mustangs and then buy what you want.
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    I hope you're okay after the accident, and I hope the drunk driver got what he deserved.

    What sort of car are you looking for to replace the Mustang? Performance coupe, sport sedan, mix of the two?

    Given your envious financial situation, I'd say for sport sedan, how about (in addition to what you've already mentioned) a WRX or a Sentra SE-R? For coupes, maybe a base-level 350z coupe?

    Dan1's got the right idea about waiting a year or two before getting a new Mustang...just to make sure any quality control issues get sorted out.
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    Hmmmm. First of all, a V6 or a V8 Mustang? I'm betting V6, as you said the head gasket blew earlier, which was a common Ford 3.8 V6 problem back them. Second, does the car have an automatic transmission? I assume when you say it won't shift, you mean that it won't shift out of park, right?

    This sounds like a wiring/electrical problem to me, maybe one that's causing the same fuse to burn out. What did the mechanics who "fixed" it say was wrong with it?
  • How r u guys???? I saw a 460 7.5 engine on a lot and before I buy it I ask you if I can drop it in my 92 LX , I know I have to modified a lot of things but my main concern is if I can do it since the engine is in a 78-79 lincoln big huge 4 door car looks like Cosa Nostra-drive around car,it has a 4 barrel carb, it hasn't been driven
    in years, my idea is rebuilt it and start from there. any ideas or experiences are welcome.
  • lateralglateralg Posts: 929
    It weighs too much.
  • dan1dan1 Posts: 76
    My best friend put a balanced and blue printed 460 big block that is supposed to be putting out around 500 pony's in an 81 4cyl mustang. There is mybe an inch on either side between the headers and the strut towers. Of coarse he changed out the entire drive train (B&M racing transmission)rear end with disk brakes etc... and suspension. It has been a while now since he built it so I do not remember all the details. I do remember it would put you back in the seat like nothing I have ever been in!

    I am going back home in August and hopefully we will get a chance to take if for a ride!
  • dcwong1dcwong1 Posts: 54
    I finally got a chance to drive a '04 Mustang - V6 auto while traveling on business. What a big disappointment. This Hertz car had only 9K miles but I can see the poor fit and finish of the interior. Seats weren't very confortable, the HVAC and radio controls required a long reach while driving, curise control (even though it is straight forward) is a joke when compared to other cars, and the standard radio (I think) with the Mach speakers were average at best. The worse part was the engine and transmission. The car seemed sluggish and the transmission was hesitant on wanting to downshift even though the car had only 9K miles. Is this typical of V6 Mustangs?
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    Yep, pretty much. Mustang build/finish is pretty weak at best, and the driving position tends to be odd. Us Mustang fans eventually learn to live with this, as well non-retracting seat belts, squeaky chassis, and a host of other irritants.

    Re power, you drove the slowest Mustang available (V6 with an auto) and that auto trans. is particularly slushy and power-sapping I've found.

    A 5 spd really wakes a V6 'Stang up, and makes for some fun driving. A V6 auto and a V6 5 spd really feel (to me anyway) like two different cars.

    The Mustang is a dinosaur in sooo many ways...both good and bad. It doesn't appeal to everyone, but to those who like it, it's one of a kind.
  • dcwong1dcwong1 Posts: 54
    I'm glad I'm not the only one who feels the same one about the V6. The '04 Mustang is a pretty good looking car. My car was yellow and it was definitely a head turner.

    I forgot to mention - why did Ford place the electric power seat switches in the front of the seat and not the side where it should go?
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    Good do get used to it after awhile though I've found.

    There's other stuff why does the fold-down rear seat *not* have a lock (so that you can safely lock things in the trunk) and why is the glove compartment so small that the owners manual that comes with the car can't even fit in it?? : )

    Check out a GT sometime, and you'll get a better sense why these cars have such a following...the GT has all the same problems as the V6, but in the "plus" category is a 260 HP/302 ftlbs TRQ V8 engine. And (for me anyway), the adolescent fun it provides (like being able to effortlessly light up the tires in screeching/smoking fury) outweighs the questionable quality inside.
  • dcwong1dcwong1 Posts: 54
    After reading constant articles over the years comparing the Mustang with Camaros / Trans Ams, it has always stated that current owners prefer the solid rear axle compared to an IRS setup but Ford finally offered an IRS in the top line Cobras and the magazines raved about how better the car handles with the IRS.

    Do diehard Mustang owners actually prefer the solid rear axle? I would think it would be cheaper for Ford to have the IRS in the new '05 Mustangs to reduce production cost instead of having to carry two rear suspensions in their inventory but the solid axle remains.
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    Yeah, the diehards love the live axle mostly because the diehards tend to be drag racers. There are a few roadracing sorts, but they usually buy the Cobra to get the IRS.

    Also, for your average joe who buys a mid-life crisis Mustang, he's really just interesting in cruising around...the dynamics of his rear end really don't matter much in his grand scheme of things.

    The way Ford sees it is probably that avg. Joe doesn't care which setup is used, the diehards will scream bloody murder if its IRS-only, and a small group of handling afficinados are already buying the Cobras...

    Plus, it's kinda a heritage thing I think. That's why I like mine. That and it's fun to explain to scared passengers why the car has this off-putting tendency to skitter sideways sometimes in turns... : )
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    I've recently bought a used 99 V6 Mustang Vert from a private party at 64k miles.. it def seems like he got the engine oil changed every 3,000 miles but that's all he's gotten done.. at this point, i'm thinkin about doing the following maintaince to the car. Can you guys input your thoughts whether its needed or not:

    Bleed Brakes - heard brakes need to be bleed every 2 yrs..and i've heard under normal situation, the OEM brakes doesn't need to be bleed ever.. but at 64k miles... should i do it myself? get a test strip?

    Coolant flush - don't know if this was ever done, i figured i could do this just to be safe.

    Transmission flush - probably never done, could bring it to a garage to do..

    Any input would be great... thanks
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    I'd say everything you've mentioned can't hurt, esp. when buying a used car w/64k miles on the clock.

    I'd also replace the brake fluid while you're at it as well; since brake fluid is hygroscopic (I think that's the term), it'll pick up water after awhile and its effectiveness will be reduced.

    Check the spark plugs too...they're probably okay, but you never know and new spark plugs are cheap.
  • cankercanker Posts: 10
    Wouldn't hurt to change the rear differential oil either. Since you don't have to change it very often it maybe worth it to go synthetic.
  • ahughes2ahughes2 Posts: 14
    I am buying a 2001 Bullit this Friday, and would like to know what replacement tires are the best bang for the buck.

    The OEM's have 42k on them and have plenty of tread on them but being 3 years old they are drying out and will wear quicker.

    The 42k was put on the car the first and second years while sittimg most of the third year. Any suggestion appreciated.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    well.. it depends on if you want all season tires or if you want performance tires... Kumho's are pretty good bang for the buck if u're looking for performance tires..
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    has anyone changed the coolant out by themselves? did you need any special tool? how much of the fluids did you remove? im wondering if this can be done without bringing it to the mechanic
  • dan1dan1 Posts: 76
    You will love the Bullitt what color is it? I have had DHG #2605 for about 3 months now. I ended up putting Perrelli P Zero Nero's on. They are an all season high performance tire and went for $140.00 from the Tire Rack. I wanted to go with strictly a summer performance tire but they all have comparably poor tread wear, in my price range anyway. They get good reviews and are fairly quite. You probably give up a little dry handling but not much.
    Once you get your Bullitt make sure you register it on IMBOC's site, just search for it on Google. There is a lot of helpful information on the site.
  • cc72cc72 Posts: 8
    Hi All,

    I leased an '03 Mustang Convertible Deluxe, manual, May for 36 months. After reading various posts here, I realize that most folks think it's best to walk away at the end of the lease. I am contemplating purchasing the vehicle at the end. (FYI, I've had two minor fender benders, but that is not why I want to purchase. Tired of monthly payments.) I'd love to hear what you and others think. Here's the information I have from the lease agreement:

    Monthly payment incl. tax $336.56
    Purchase option at end of lease $12275.85
    Residual value used to calculate monthly payment $11775.85

    Gross cap cost $23161.01
    - Cap cost reduction $2605.76
    = Adjusted cap cost $20555.25
    - Residual value $11775.85
    = Depreciation and any amortized amounts $8779.40
    + Rent charge $2413.36
    = Total of base monthly payment $11192.76

    MSRP $25055
    A Plan $22162.01 (family member works for the company)
    $3000 rebate, $1000 down payment

    At the end of the lease, I plan to pay in cash. (Tired of having a monthly payment.) I'm hoping to negotiate down with Ford credit, maybe a few thousand, but of course I'll have to wait to see what the market value is in '06. Also, what happens if I'm offered an early-out, but I still want to buy this car, rather than entering into another vehicle agreement? If the offer is presented with 3 months to go, can I then just pay the negotiated purchase option price and forego the remaining lease payments?

    In addition, I paid for something called WearCare for excess wear and use $500 and $499 for the alarm, which were included in the price info above. I'd also love to hear any thoughts on my original deal. Was I reamed? Sadly, I did not know of this forum at the time. Oh, the lease agreement does not show anything about the money factor.

  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    just curious, why did you go with a 03 and not an 04?

    and if you were planning to keep the car after 3 yrs, why didn't you just buy it now?
  • cc72cc72 Posts: 8

    I leased the car 18 months ago -- '04's were not available. And I leased because I didn't know if I wanted to buy. I didn't have plans to keep the car at all.
  • cc72cc72 Posts: 8
    Oops. I meant 15 months ago.
  • kyleknickskyleknicks Posts: 433
    does anyone know how many quarts the V6 mustang engine takes?
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    5 quarts if I'm not mistaken for the 3.8
  • I bought a new 2004 V6 coupe in May. It has only 1200 miles on it and has developed a disturbing problem. When the car is driven, after sitting all night, or all day (cold engine), sometimes, but not every time, when the transmission makes the first shift from first to second, there is an audible "clunk" noise. The transmission never makes the noise again until the next time the car is driven when the engine is cold. But even then, it doesnt always make the "clunk". Has anyone ever heard of this? I spoke to the service dept at the dealership and all they are doing is listing my problem on the Ford website to see if anyone knows anything about it.

    I am really disappointed as I have wanted a Mustang for years and when I finally get one, it appears to have something wrong with the transmission.
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    Welcome to the club. Manual transmission I assume?

    The cold "1st-clunk!-2nd" is a legendary problem for Mustangs with the T-3650 transmission (on all 5-spd Mustangs since 2002). Mine does it all the time. Try shifting very slow and smoothly when the car's warming up, and that'll minimize it.

    Ford tells everyone "it's normal". But there is finally a TSB (technical service bulletin) out for this, so hope might be on the horizon. Tell your dealer about the TSB..that'll point them in the right direction.

    It's not really a major problem, just one of the many minor annoyances that come with Mustang ownership. Best of luck.
  • john_324john_324 Posts: 974
    Opps...just read your title - yeah, I know...I should actually read everything before replying...; ).

    Sorry, I thought you had 5 spd. Wow, I've never heard of this issue with an auto transmission...
  • Hey all...I've been searching for a while and finally found the right Mustang. I left the dealership this evening and told them I needed to think about it for a day or so, but unless something drastic happens I'm going back tomorrow to purchase it.

    Car is a Dark Shadow Grey Mustang GT coupe, 5 spd. It only has 5,200 miles on it and is in pristine condition. Mach 1000 audio system too which is a plus...the only downside is that it has a cloth interior.

    Sticker price was $21,900...haggled a little with the Sales Manager and was able to get the price down to $18,500. According to Edmunds' price calculator, this is 10% below average dealer price for this model with this amount of miles on it. I'm going to take it I think.

    Anyway, just thought I would post experiences...when I actually go through with the purchase, I will relate how everything went with the Ford dealer, maybe it will help someone else out there.

    As soon as I take possession of the car I'm ordering a Vortech V2-SQ trim supercharger kit and having it installed ASAP...should net around 370hp/370lb-ft torque for a little over $22,000. :)
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