Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
2007 G35 Sport 6MT
Platinum Graphite paint
Premium Package
Navigation Package
Technology Package
4-Wheel Active Steer
Rear spoiler (ughh, did not really want but oh well)
Trunk Cargo Net
No splash guards
MSRP: $40,600
Invoice: $36,985 (as quoted by the dealer)
Paid $35,985 including all dealer fees, not including TTL.
They seemed willing to deal on the 07 models left, but gave up almost nothing on the 08s.
Overall, a pretty good experience. Thanks to everyone on this board, it was a BIG help in negotiations.
Nav
Premium
Technology
Wheel Locks
Cargo Net
James
Don't see anything on Infiniti's site yet. Can anyone confirm this?
Otherwise try searching your local/regional dealer websites for leftover inventory. They should give you a considerable discount on these!
6000 miles x IRS approved mileage rate for 2008 of .505 is $3030.
I'd suggest starting negotiations there and asking for a free 100,000 extended warranty, too.
I'd suggest starting negotiations there and asking for a free 100,000 extended warranty, too
I disagree w/ this calculation. You cannot even get a used '07 G35x w/ 15K miles using this formula.
However, you should be able to get an '07 at invoice - incentive which is about 34.5K (base on your MSRP of 37.5K) - 1500 rebate - 1000 for mileage (IMO) = 32K.
You can bet that the dealer is deducting every one of those miles from its own taxes, too.
Well, I'm not sure about your area. I check 2 dealer websites here in Philly for '07 G35x used. The lowest I saw is $33K w/ sunroof only (which is about 1500 cheaper than the car we're talking here). The one w/ Premium and Wood is $35K.
I know it's asking price but I doubt they will take 5K off from that price.
Dennis
M.F. = .00232
Residual = 59%
12,000 Miles a year
39 Months
I'm paying the taxes up front along with DMV fees, Destination, 1st payment etc. Then paying $450 a month. Just wondering if I did well.
There is a limit on how many "demo" miles they can put on a car and be reimbursed by Infiniti - and a limit on many they can put on it and still sell it as new with a full warranty. 6k sounds like it may be past that.
Stupid question: Are you sure the car has 6k on it? Could you have looked at the trip ODO and read 600,0 as 6,000 miles? They have them one over the other and sometimes when I look at G (older style or new) I read the trip as the ODO by mistake. This was "easier" to mistake on the older cars, but could still be done on the new ones.
If it really does have 6k on it, then go to CarFax and plug in the VIN number. Is the car is new and never titled there should either be 0 or 1 hits on the VIN. If this car has been titled 1 or more hits should show up. You could also ask the dealer to show you the MSO/MCO to "prove" it is new.
They would have to make this a really sweet deal to get me to take it with so many demo miles on it. I am sure those miles were put on as a service loaner, test drives, salesperson commutes, etc - and probably not with any great care. To me this is a used car, and would command a used car price. So look that up here on Edmunds, KBB, etc and see what that is.
Dennis
I have not seen the buy rate MFs for Jan yet, so I can't comment on 0.00232 - other than to say the 36 month rate was 0.00193 up until 1/2/2008.
Dennis
Sorry Dennis. I'm not the originator of this question.
Dennis
Dennis
Thanks
So far only negative is you can not import the phone contacts from the IPhone into the G.
Here are the details;
*MSRP-$42225 (Options include, Nav, Tech, Prem, Sport, cargo net, splash guards, spoiler)
*Gross cap cost-$38891.31 (Invoice from Edmunds including destination $38439)
*At signing-$2000.60 (Included: $569 1st payment, $595 Acq fee, Acq fee tax $35.70, doc fee $45, tire fee $12.50, reg fees $180, $540 cap cost fee, $32.40 tax on cap cost)
My wife targeted a $560 per month payment, thus the cap cost, otherwise I would have avoided putting this down.
Base Monthly payment: $528.30 (+31.70 Ct tax), total-$560.00
Based on these numbers it looks like total paid over invoice was $497.31
Here's where things getting funny. The residual value was 58%, money factor .00228, for 36 months, 15,000 miles per year. The rate is January's, and none of the published sedan rates on this forum are for 58% for the same term and mileage. I'm curious if the XS model may be slightly different? I heard from three dealers the Sport option has no residual value. When we looked at an Acura MDX, this was the case also.
I agreed to pay no more than $600 above published invoice price, which the dealer disclosed in writing and the spoiler option was not on our list. Over the phone the internet manager stated our vehicle would not have a spoiler. When we arrived to pick it up this morning...it had the option and was on the Infiniti window sticker. We didn't want it but it was something that would not break the deal.
After the paperwork was signed and they went over the car, the additional fee for the spoiler came up. I basically shook my head No and my wife verbalized this, nothing more was said.
So, I'm curious if this "additional charge" somehow shows up on a bill later to me, which I will not pay. Any thoughts from the forum on this and the deal overall.
Mike
I currently have about 5 months left on my '04 G35X lease and am about 8,000 miles under my lease limit. I received a message from my local dealer about exploring options of a new lease since I have less than 180 days left on mine.
I am looking for a 2008 G35X AWD with Prem, NAV, and possibly the sport package with spoiler, albeit not necessary.. The MSRP with everything on Infiniti.com is $40,915 and $39,265 without the spoiler/sport.. What is the invoice price on these???
Secondly, does anyone have the risidual and base rate on a 36 month lease, 15k miles for January???
Also, my father-in-law claims that his best friend from dental school can get me VPP pricing.. SHould I assume this is C or D Plan??? I believe I read from Dennis that I could probably negotiate as good of pricing on my own if it is C or D.. Is that accurate or should I try to get the code? Are there any circumstances that it could be the A or B plan???
Lastly, my current lease is solely in my father's name.. My credit was a trainwreck out of college so I had to go that route. My credit score is now slightly over 700, but I have no auto credit history. My income and debt ratio are a non-issue.. What should I expect as far as tiers and interest pricing??? Should I expect to have issues getting a deal done now with 5 months left considering the current lease is not in my name?
Thanks for any suggestions
Thanks for your detail post. I'm also living in White Plains and considering to get G35x same as you. Would you mind to provide how much you got your car at Pepe Infiniti. I tried to get quote form them and Christina who is a internet rep replied. However, she didn't mension about price in OTD. Thanks in advanced.
Some comments on what you posted. I don't think I have ever been charged sales tax on the bank fee before - not that I can ever recall. Maybe they do that there, but I am not sure other places do. Of course, we just tax on the payment and any cap cost reduction here, so if you roll the bank fee into the lease you pay tax on it - but if you pay it up front then I don't think tax is due.
I assume by "cap cost fee" you mean cap cost reduction?
The rate I posted for the x for Jan for 36 months/45k was 59% and 0.00210, the numbers you show were the numbers for early December of 07 (58% and 0.00228). The numbers I posted could be wrong, everyone is just human and some numbers could have been typed or read incorrectly at some point. But if you are lucky, the dealer just used the wrong sheet - which is great news for you. IFS will not fund the lease if the residual is wrong (but would accept if if the MF is high with the dealer getting the revenue from the extra over the buy rate you signed for). So hopefully the lease will bounce, they will be told the error, and you will be called back in to sign new lease papers with the correct numbers. Keep in mind, they have to change the MF AND the residual to give you the best deal. They COULD just bump the residual up one point which would slightly lower you payment and ask you to sign those papers. I would not, I would ask if 0.00210 is the buy rate and insist on it. Also realize that the MF does not appear on the lease contract - if just shows the net, cap, residual, and payment. So you have to check the numbers to see what was used to generate that payment.
Personally, if 0.00210 was posted here I would not have signed papers on a car with a rate of 0.00228 until I could verify with several dealers that was the buy rate.
If the buy rate and residual you posted are the right one, sorry for posting the wrong ones. But, if I were you I would have waited. You are still paying on th Audi so I would have rolled the dice and hoped for better IFS numbers for Feb.
I don't understand your confusion over the spoiler. I went and priced out the car and $42.225 does include the spoiler and the invoice should be $38,439. I took your selling price less your cap cost reduction, 58% of residual and the MF you state and plugged them into the old lease calc and got your payment (w/o tax) exactly. So that is correct using the numbers you posted - and you are paying for the spoiler.
Dennis
The lease MF and residuals for Jan are posted here, probably 10-15 message above this one. You can also search for JAN in the search box.
It depends on if your father's friend works for Nissan or not. Nissan employees can generate C codes for their friends. Plan D is for employees of partner companies and NOT for friends of employees of partner companies. So if he works for Nissan, you can get a code, if not then you can't. For Plan D the buyer/lessee would have to provide ID and proof on employment with the partner company, so that would not fly for you.
As to the credit, you may have to get your father to co-sign your new lease for you. A 700 would probably put you just outside tier 1 for Nissan. They most likely use an auto enhanced score with no auto credit history your score may be really low. With a co-signer you can get the lease and once you pay it off with no lates you have no problem the next time getting the lease on your own. IFS would probably write you this time on your own, but the rate would be a lot higher I am afraid.
What are you planning on doing with your current car? If it is worth more than the current lease buy out you can sell it to a dealer or trade it in and be done with. Otherwise you might as well keep driving it and worry about a new car closer to the end of the current lease.
Dennis
Dennis
Can you put the upgraded sport 18 inch front wheel and tires on both the front and back giving you the same set? If so does anyone know if a dealer would be willing to do this?
I like the sport package wheel and some of the other features of the sport package but would like to get the same size tire and wheel on all 4..
Thanks again
Randy
Yes, cap cost reduction, not fee, sorry for the misstatement.
As far as the numbers used, maybe this lease will get kicked back? I guess I'll hear something over the coming days. This deal overall was a little sketchy. And yes I should have disputed the numbers.
As far as the confusion on the spoiler, on my end the numbers did work out exactly, and I know we paid for this option. It was more so the salesperson's statement about back charging me for it after everything was signed for? I checked my Amex it there is still not the $500 deposit charge posted on it from two weeks back??? I called Amex this morning to put a note on the file for the $500 deposit/not exceed. In the event a charge higher than this appears I'll need to dispute it, since the note isn't a flag to not process just used for disputing charges. This could get slightly messy or they could not charge me at all, which means roughly a $50 under Invoice deal (unlikely).
Mike
We also liked the Liquid platinum (silver) and Platinum Graphite (gray), exterior colors. Although, my Honda is silver and her soon to depart Audi is Dolphin Gray, so a little change. We both prefer dark interiors.
Mike
I think if you check the prices of those 18" tires they are high no matter what.
There are two concerns - you can't rotate the tires front to back to increase the tread life and the replacement rubber is VERY expensive and limited in choice. If you put 18" all around you could then rotate the tires, but the rubber for those tires is still going to be expensive.
Another concern COULD be that if there are any suspension tweaks that go on when the sports pack staggered tires are installed could compromise handling when the wider rears are removed.
You could also go with aftermarket wheels and tires from TireRack, DiscountTireDirect, etc but you are talking about a lot of money and you also have to have the TPMS sensors in the new wheels.
If you are are getting an automatic G sedan anyway, you could opt for the x with sports pack and get same size (but all season) tires on all 4 corners.
I have had staggered setups on 'vettes, a couple of BMWs, and a couple of S2000s and no being able to rotate the tires does mean you buy tires sooner. They all handled well, but you were not happy at tire time. I don't drive any one car a lot of miles, so it is not as large a concern as it would be for someone who puts a lot of miles on a car in a year. Just something to think about when deciding.
I have had cars in the past that had tires in odd sizes with limited choices, as luck would have it the tire makers produced more choices by the time I needed tires. If these size tires are used on other cars and as the demand for these sizes go up as they are worn out, the odds go up that other companies will produce something that fits,
Dennis
So either:
1) IFS is really offering 59% and 0.00210 on a 36 month/15k mile lease (while offering 0.00232 and 59% for a 39 month/12k mile lease)
2) IFS is really offering 58% and 0.00228 on a 36 month/15k lease (while doing 0.00232 and 59% for 39/12k).
3) You dealer used the wrong numbers (note that if 1 is true then this is true as well)
I would say of the 3 choices, 2 (your deal) or 3 (dealer error) would be most likely and 1 (using the numbers I posted) is wrong.
So the $500 was the deposit on the car and then turned into the cap cost reduction? They probably just got an approval to charge your Amex and have not yet put it through. I don't think they would dare try to add more to it, nor should they.
We all get caught up the numbers - for sure the payment. Never tell the dealer what you want to pay per month since they make can reach that number and still rip you off . Always just work the price of the car, then plug that number into your own lease calc and see what the payment is. If the payment is too high, then try for more discount on the car or perhaps wait for better terms another time.
One of the leases I signed the dealer's numbers did not match mine (I have a program called LeaseIT! on my Palm Pilot) and I pinned down the difference. They were charging me a "gross receipts tax" on the car. This is the tax the county/city charges the dealer on every transaction and NOT a tax the customer is supposed to pay. I called them on it, but since my wife was with me and was tired of me going over every number and detail, I chose not to fight it. The rate on the lease was < 1% and the tax was pretty small so added little to the payment. Had I been there on my own for a car for me, I don't think I would have paid it - and would have asked for the car to be discounted to make their numbers match mine.
Dennis
If you currently own or lease an Infiniti (any model) this goes up to $1,000. You do not have to trade in your current vehicle to get this discount. This also is available no matter if you purchase or lease as well.
These can be combined with VPP pricing, the current discounted finance deals (2.9% to 3.9% for terms from 24 to 60 months), and the current lease deals.
Dennis
I find it hard to believe a dealer would plug in the incorrect numbers, but who knows.
Yes, the $500 deposit basically turned into the cap cost reduction.
I usually challenge and question every number. I have walked out of dealerships when an additional fee is tacked on or something doesn't add up. I bring my laptop and basically pull up all the numbers in front of the sales person. My wife calls me a grinder, and she simply wanted to buy the car, since the numbers worked out to what was agreed to over the phone. She's not one to rework something, even if it's slightly in her (our) favor. I did read your post after you plugged the numbers into your spreadsheet and saw the savings between end of Dec and Jan were minimal at best.
However the original dealer we worked with tried to sell us the vehicle with a price lower by $300 over the one we signed with. We agreed since the dealer we ultimately purchased from worked out a deal with me in fifteen minutes vs. the three weeks with the other, we no longer wanted to waste any more time.
Mike
To me "grinding" is trying to wear the other party down over time and even when I am checking every penny it does not take that much time. If something is not right and they don't fix it, then I just leave. If I have to travel to get the car (and I often do) then I either go with someone I trust or have them fax me documents before I go to avoid the trip if things are not right.
I once knew a guy that spent all day buying a new pickup truck, the sticking point was over a radio (he was buying the base model with no radio). After hours and hours they the dealer finally gave in and he got his radio. They put in the cheapest thing I have ever seen, something that might cost $25 are the store. If he had thought about how valuable his time was and how much he spend of it to get a radio, he could have saved himself a lot of grief and signed the papers and stopped by the store on his way home and purchased the cheap radio.
Heck, I paid $200-300 extra to avoid a 6 hours round trip drive. I could not get a closer dealer to match the distant dealer's price, but decided I just would not sit in the car for 6 hours (making someone else go along as well to drive my car back) just for such a little amount.
Now if they tried to raise the price after I made the deal, THAT is another story.
I will e-mail and ask about the rates and see if I can get a confirmation, maybe all is well and what I posted is wrong. Worst case, the rates I posted would probably save you some money . The dealer can't change the residual and if what I posted is correct then your number is wrong and the lease will not fund for that reason alone.
Dennis
Good luck and tell Anthony that Bosco referred you to him.
Dennis
Any suggestions? Thanks!!!
Jeff
Now, you can get a new G37 for about invoice so why pay invoice for a G35? There is/was $2,500 or more in dealer money on the left over 07 G35 coupes - are you paying invoice less this incentive or actual invoice?
Are you getting a super deal on the lease MF and residual? Did you compare that with the current G37 deals?
The G37 interior is tons nicer as are the seats and many other things, I would only get a G35 if I REALLY saved a lot of money on it.
The 300 miles would not be a huge deal, they should tack those onto your lease so that you get the 36k or whatever the lease calls for.
Or is this a sedan? Not as much difference between the 08 and 07 sedans (ipod interface the biggie), but again you should be able to get an 08 for near invoice so I don't know I would pay inoice for an 07 sedan until the lease numbers made it a ton cheaper per month.
Dennis
When I bought my new 2006 G35X and went to pick it up there were marks all over the hood...The dealer told me....ready??...well we could just replace the hood for you. I told the dealer I want a different car or else refund my deposit and have a nice day. They had to go to New Jersey to get the NEW CAR but they did...and I know because I checked the VIN# on the Color that I wanted based on where they told me they had to go and get the car...and it knew the # before I saw the car.
Bottom line....you are spending too much money to be treated poorly....If you have a bad taste now...just wait until a real issue comes up. If you feel uneasy about the mileage....and they are not making it right for you....GET UP AND LEAVE......Trust me....they will be more accommodating to you and if not isn't it better to find out now than after you take possession.......Good Luck......
That said, I have leased cars with hundreds of miles on them and had no problems at all, so if there are no more to be found (usual color, etc) and they are doing the deal at invoice with little or no doc fee, then I would just take it. Your lease will be up long before the warranty and you will turn your car in and get something else.
I don't think the dealer is being sneaky, I would serious doubt they have any "Tracking" on the miles on the new cars. When they went to prep your car they noticed the miles to put on your paperwork and alerted you to the amount. There are dozens of salesmen showing and demo'ing hundreds of cars on the lot, no way do they know how many miles is on any given car at any time- in most cases.
We all want 0 mile cars, but then we all want to be able to test drive what type of car we want to buy with the options on it we think we want. If you are looking at a "Commodity car" like a Honda, they often keep a "Demo" of each popular trim line for test driving since they are all are the same. You might get to drive a "new" one to confirm your choice before purchase. With a high line car, customers are not going to be told they have to drive a single sample that is not the color or options they want, so they get to drive a "new" car to test it out. That happens a few times and you end up with 300 miles on it. Before you decided to buy you went in and test drove, maybe several cars at several dealerships. If those dealers had to give away a remote starter with every one you drove they would not have let you drive them .
Also dealer trades are common on in most places Infiniti dealers are a ways apart, so it could be simply a dealer trade - someone wanted a different color so they swapped cars. To keep from paying hauling charges they had someone drive the car to the dealership, swap and come back. Every (smart) dealership I know of uses older retired folks to do this, so there is little risk of problems. Using retired folks means they only have to pay them when/if they need a car moved rather than paying a full time employee. I met a couple that were bringing a car back for me (turned out to be hail dinged so they left it where it was) - they looked like your grand pa or something .
You see folks in the store open a box to check something out, then put the opened box down and buy a sealed box. If you want to test drive before you buy, SOMEONE has to lease or buy those driven cars.
Dennis
If you just want compensation, then what they've offered is fair... If you aren't sure if you want the car, then no amount will make up for it..
Good luck!
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Doesn't look like getting an invoice + a few hundred bucks type of deal is available here?