Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Acura MDX Maintenance and Repair



  • topofftopoff Posts: 19
    Not an Oil issue if you are using Mobil1 and changing at 3500miles. My Acura RL/MDX using nothing but 0w/30 Redline or Mobil1 and Fran Filter - at 6000 miles. And we have a brutal climate in Minnesota - 50 degree swing in Temp frequently - 103 to 55 in 36 hours or -30 to +30 in 24 hours
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    "Not an oil issue if you are using Mobil 1 and changing at 3500 miles."...... Not necessarily! I had an Infiniti FX45 (V8 engine) that lost compression in one cylinder at 101,000 miles. I had ALWAYS used Mobil 1 and never went more than 4,000 miles between changes, ALWAYS at the same dealer where I bought the car new. After the engine failed it took me a while to cool down, but I came to attribute the problem to "[non-permissible content removed] happens". Anyway, after Infiniti refused to pay for an engine replacement, which would have cost around $9,000, I decided to trade it in on a 2010 MDX. My MDX now has just 14,000 miles on it, and so far so good. I've decided with this vehicle I'm only going to have the oil changed when the indicator advises the remaining oil life is down to 15-20%. And I will have the dealer use the normal conventional oil. Lastly, I'm planning to replace the vehicle at around 75,000 - 80,000 miles, which is what I should have done with the Infiniti!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    edited July 2011
    Kind of a funny combo since Fram's have a so-so reputation with lots of people. But I use them, and I ran conventional oil for my 20 Alaskan winters and am using it now in the UP where summer is happening this week. Ditto the Boise decade with 105 temps. 7,500 mile intervals mostly. Plain old oil is a lot better than it used to be.
  • pete2815pete2815 Posts: 20
    If it is just misfortune, this is where a good dealer shines. I had a BMW 528e that was ~7-8 yrs old with 50-60k miles on it, lose its transmission (would only drive in reverse). I had no extended warranty but a good dealer. I had discussed trading it in prior to the problem but decided not to do it. The dealer offered the same trade-in value on the dead car. I declined. They then contacted BMW who offered a new transmission free of charge as they felt the transmission should not have occurred. They shipped me a new transmission and I paid a small labor fee to have it installed. I bought several cars over the years from the dealer (stopped when I bought the first MDX). Consider talking to the owner of the dealer about your problem before doing anything else and see what the owner offers.
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Thanks for the advice I will probably do just that.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..lost compression on ONE cylinder.."

    Not very likely to have been an oil problem, more likely a manufacting defect.
  • topofftopoff Posts: 19
    Yep - as i said - it wasn't an oil-related problem. Thanks for being the voice of reason.
  • pete2815pete2815 Posts: 20
    Can you post an update on what is happening with your MDX?
  • I have a 2007 MDX and have already replaced the navigation dvd 2 years ago after receiving a disc error message. I just received the same message and after removing the disc noticed that the disc appears to be damaged. The damage appears about a quarter of an inch in from the outer edge of the disc. It looks as if the disc were spinning and someone were to slightly gouge it with an object about one quarter of an inch in from the outer edge ie. the damage makes a complete circle. I don't want to buy a new disc and have it ruined but I also suspect that replacing the nav system will be quite expensive. Anyone else had this problem?
  • Hi Folks

    The owner manual states that break's Dual System design can results in longer breaking distance if one circuit is not working properly!! One circuit manages the Passenger-side Front wheel to Drive-Side Back Wheel. 2nd circuit is the diagonal opposite of that.

    Is there a way for me to test which side is working and which side is NOT!?

    Any suggestion and ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • I am researching buying a new 2011/2012 MDX. All of them I have looked at on the dealer lot and on the road have the rear hatch installed off center by about a quarter of an inch. Also, the dash component sections are mismatched (Consumrts Reports also noticed this dash problem) although they are better matched now than in 2009/2010 models). The door windows also rattle when down when you close the door. Has anyone had any experience getting these issues addressed, especially the rear hatch being installed off center. I would not be so concerned if it was a $35K Dodge, but it is a $50K Acura. I live in the LA area. (What has happened to the quality in this car that I have loved for so long?)
  • 10sfan10sfan Posts: 136
    A year later how are the Grand Touring M + S tires working out, especially over the last winter in the snow..?
  • My 2005 MDX has 60k miles. Dealer is telling me timing belt should be replaced at 7 years 100k. I have read in the posts that most have had done at 100K. What is everyones opinion, should I have done now or wait? Car runs wells just dont want any surprises.
  • topofftopoff Posts: 19
    I just saw a similiar situation on a 2004 MDX - parts looked like new. If you plan on keeping the car then do it now and stop worrying. However, yes you could go another 1-2years. But if it breaks.....

    Also, you didn't say your climate - extreme hot or cold will shorten the life of the belts. Also, extreme hot or cold will make you regret not doing the preventive maintenance even more!
  • My 2011 Acura MDX with Advance package and Entertainment System keeps having a problem. We bought the car in May and within 2 weeks we started having the problem where the car would not start. If you keep trying the car will eventually start. Sometimes it can take up to an hour before the car would start again. We have taken it to the dealer at least once every month since we bought for this problem to no avail. Their first solution was to change the relay switch. The problem still exist. We never know when the car might decide not to start. It is very inconvenient. Dealership can't fix the problem. They say they can't find anything wrong with the car. We involved Honda Corporation and all they did was get the car evaluated for a problem which the local dealer still could not find. We have started the Lemon law process available to us in Florida but this takes a long time to resolve. We are so disappointed because we really liked the vehicle but we feel let down by Acura for not resolving this issue. This is the top of the line of the MDX and management disregarded our request for another vehicle to replace this one.
  • maestro65, sorry to hear about Acura not being able to fix your starting issue. That's got to be really frustrating! I have a 2010 Advance, and at 20,000 miles it's been flawless so far. I have to believe your's is a unique problem. I would keep pressing them on it until it's resolved to your satisfaction. Also, smart move to get the Lemon Law process started, just in case.
  • So I took my 2011 MDX for its first road trip. On the way back, I was driving at 75mph, when I had to overtake a car, I pushed it to 90+ and took the right lane and saw my hood had popped open. Luckily the safety latch held it down or I would had a major accident. I stopped immediately and closed the hood but it was a scary feeling. Will be taking it in to the dealer to check it out.
  • Hi,
    I have a 2011 MDX with Tech package and i started having the same problem 3 weeks ago. I've had the car for a little over a year and all of the sudden this issue started to happen. I took it to Acura and they replaced the relay switch, but that did not fix the problem.
    They are now saying it's the harness and they think it may have been damaged when my car was involved in an accident last October. I find this very hard to beleive for two reasons:
    1) The car has been running fine for months after it was repaired from the accident with no problems.
    2) We took the car back to the mechanic who fixed the car after the accident and he couldn't find anything wrong with the harness.
    It is really frustrating to be stuck in this position.

    Question: does your car have remote start installed?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Second car key, transponder type key, on the same keyring...?
  • Hello everyone,

    As you can tell from the title I recently purchased a MDX. Now, I keep hearing a humming noise whenever I take my foot off the accelerator between 40 and 20 MPH. Also, whenever I make a U-turn I hear a humming coming from back of the MDX. Does anyone know what hell is going on? Should this be happening with a luxury vehicle? Hold on. Let me rephrase that. Should this be happening to a BRAND new vehicle? :mad:

  • What does the dealer/service think about your problem?
  • There is a recall on 2011 Acura MDX for issues with the battery management system. We did not receive a notice from Acura but were having low battery warnings constantly. When we called the dealership we were informed that there is a recall. Just wanted to let you know that some of your problems may be resolved when the dealership fixes that. Our car is having no problems whatsoever now and we love our Acura!!!!
  • I'm having the same issue. I was also on the freeway when my VSA light came on the brakes just locked. Only with my 2006 Acura MDX, one of my front and one of my rear brakes, aren't working. I had to tow it to the dealership because the brakes just wouldn't engage at all now. If this is going to be a pervading issue, I would say a class action suit is in order.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    Was wondering what others have paid.
    I was quoted $119 + tax for B1 service. This includes tire rotation, oil change, any bolt tigthening, lubrication, parking brake adjustment, e.t.c. I know that i can perform most of the visual inspections myself though if parking brake needs adjustment that i would rather not do. (even though read it's not hard specially if the internal screw needs tightening).
    THe cost of A1 service (oil+rotation) is $60 + tax
    Thinking to pay the extra $60 for the other stuff to make sure all "recommended" service is done and is on record.
    Wondering if the cost is reasonable ?
    This is in Dallas area.
  • qaliqali Toronto CanadaPosts: 60
    Was wondering if anyone also has this issue. I have noticed that on my '05 MDX, the lights that illuminate some of the switches (cruise, fog lamps), seat heaters, homelink, etc are no longer workiing. The switch works, but when ON they do not illuminate the pale green lights.

    Is this something I can fix? Where do I even start ordering these bulbs for these switches?
  • 2003mdx2003mdx Posts: 2
    Have a 2003 MDX , 82 K miles - well serviced .

    Wife driving at 15 MPHR - both front airbags deployed suddenly for no reason - no bumps on the road no impact to car whatsoever .

    Car towed to dealer who is looking at it .

    Called Acura client relations and reported the incident to them and NHTSA .

    Acura interested in knowing if my wife hit something- was told no - they wanted me to contact my insurance company , I refused as this was not an accident-they will get back to me by end of the week .

    Will keep you posted - now wife wants to drive a car with NO airbags whatsoever
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Wow, that's highly unusual. Was any work done recently to the vehicle?
  • 2003mdx2003mdx Posts: 2
    No - mostly routine oil change , transmission fliud change etc done 1-2 weeks prior to this event .

    Googled this- looks like there are few reported events like ours - all blamed on the driver for hitting something - just like us the drivers swear they didn't .
  • Update
    So little more than 2 years and i put around 30,000 miles on the Nitto tires.
    Was told by Discount that it's the last rotation and probably have another 7000-8000 miles left on the tires.
    Overall was satisfied looks like will get about 35,000 miles out of them.
    The price for the tire has gone up by almost $50 each. (will see if i can find a cheap price on the net and then have discount match it).
    also Considering;

    Anyone else have any experience with them ?
  • My problem is the same: 2003 Acura MDX with faulty fuel gauge reading. I told the dealer (Honda, not Acura), that since the trip computer was working I didn't think it was the fuel sender. But they replaced it, replaced the gauge, and it still didn't work. They sent it to an Acura dealer some distance away and they replaced a PCB and sent it back with 30 miles on the odometer, instead of the correct (?) 123,000 +. I told them I thought federal law prohibits changing odometer readings. They shrugged and gave me the invoice from the Acura dealer saying the odometer was accidentally reset. The Honda dealer did some other work on the car and I drove out yesterday after paying nearly $3,000. (They didn't charge me for the sender or fuel gauge they said they replaced, but the Acura dealer charged about $615 for the replacement of the PCB. Also, I had told them that I wanted the broken parts they had replaced, but they forgot to keep them. (A starter, master brake cylinder, and a few other things.) Do I have any recourse? Mainly, is there any way to get the odometer reset to what it was before I brought the car in to these master mechanics?
  • dmortazdmortaz Posts: 26
    In Califormia, the mechanic shop has to produce the replaced parts and owner has the right to take them or request for them to be recycled or thrown out. It's the law. Also, most states will require a written explanation as to why the odometer reading is not accurate. You need to get documentation to prove that you have not tampered w the odometer which again is illegal.

    Whatever your dealer does has to be clearly documented so when you resell the car there would be easy to trust the miles shown on the odometer and those miles make sense on a CarFax report.
  • I was told the same thing today for my 2008 MDX. I thought that if we used premium gas we should be good.
  • I have an 01 MDX with 135k miles that still looks and drives fine. I will need the following:
    -Timing belt
    -Front Engine Seal
    -Strut replacement
    - Broken Control Arm on the front
    and the warranty on my rebuilt Acura Transmission runs out this month.

    My mechanic says I am looking at around $2,800 to do the repairs ( non-dealer). I fear I will make the repairs and the transmission will break again ($5,000). Retail Blue Book is around $6,000.

    Should I sell it/ send it to the junkyard or fix it and hope for the best? I can afford a new car, if necessary.
  • Sell and get out!! We did and I can now start breathing again since I don't live in fear of a transmission failure which would have forced us to spend $4K on car which is worth $9k max!!
    Especially since my loved one were traveling in it from home to school and back!

    Aside from the transmission what annoyed me about our MDX were lousy gas millage, audio reception, unreliable electronics of the engine computer and other "quality & finish" issues compared to Lexus. Even Korean brands are much better than Acura!

    Just 3 months ago (December 2012) there was a warranty recall notice for a part on the Transmission which I noticed when I ordered a CarFax during our marketing on the car for sale! Dealer had no help when we tried to have the work done, claiming that they don't have the part for servicing the warranty repair. So, I had to create an addendum to the sale contract that we had notified the buyer.....etc.

    Even our experience with our Jeep Grand Cherokee was much less harrowing that an Acura MDX. We sold 2004 MDX with only 117,000 miles on it! I had the timing belt replaced last year.... but was just living on constant fear of something else breaking on that car!

    I am thrilled to be rid of our MDX and will NEVER buy or recommend a 6 cylinder Honda or Acura to anyone including my enemies.
  • Sorry to hear about your MDX problem. Ours was a 2004, but we were extremely disappointed with the starter computer even after we replaced the EGR valve after 100,00 miles. And if you have an mDX you live in constant fear of a transmission failure.

    Lexus folks gave us 4 brand new Michellens on a LEASED car when I complained about the noise from the worn out OEM tires. Compared that to Acura Customer Service folks who refused to wave the $1500 fee for a rebuilt transmission!!

    Bottom line, compared to other luxury brands, Acura has a still a long long way to go. So, we are thrilled to have sold our 2004 MDX and will never buy or recommend an Acura to ANYONE including our enemies.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    I would question the diagnosis you got--if you had a "broken control arm" the car would not be drivable.

    As for the front engine seal, unless it was anything more than a little seepage, I wouldn't bother with it.

    If the struts aren't making noise, or visibly leaking, and the tires aren't "cupping", and the ride is acceptable to you, I'd pass on those, too.

    As for the transmission, keep your fingers crossed.
  • Thanks, I forgot the last thing, at least one motor mount is broken and the engine moves around quite a bit. My mechanic says he will not know how many are broken till he lifts the engine up. Am I right in assuming that this has to be fixed?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    There are 3 mounts for the engine and two for the transmission, so he'd have to determine what was bad.

    Replacing the 3 engine mounts is 3.5 hrs of labor plus parts of about $325.

    Engine mounts are quite important, so if any are actually broken, there's no avoiding replacing them.

    If they aren't broken but merely a bit flexible, that may not be doing any harm.
  • progerproger Posts: 44
    My 04 Acura MDX engine mounts had just been replaced last month, good thing I have an extended warranty.
  • I have a 2004 MDX. The design flaw where the transmission fluid line runs through the radiator and eventually fails,...(unless you proactively decide to replace your radiator) causes a situation where there is a mix of transmission and radiator fluid and the transmission seems to fail. My mechanic said my transmission on my MDX was toast,...wanted $5,000 to fix it. My father has a former Acura/Honda dealer mechanic who has been working on his Hondas for years,...swears by him as the only honest one. I brought the car to him, and he told me anyone who tells you the transmission is bad is full of it. You have no idea until you replace the radiator, flush the transmission, replace the fluids in both (He flushed the new radiator and lines twice) I paid $400,...not $5000 to fix the radiator and the car has been fine since. I have 173,000 miles on it. DON'T TAKE YOUR MECHANICS WORD ON THIS ISSUE!!! My NEW mechanic told me that there is no way to tell if there is any damage unless they drop the transmission to assess it. That is a major job so mechanics just say it's toast! The risk is that you put in a new radiator,..flush the system, spend $400 and there is actually major damage so you are out $400. So far my NEW mechanic has not had one MDX or Pilot that has had this issue where replacing the radiator and flushing out the mixed fluids has not worked. Don't trust your mechanic on this issue unless you really believe you damaged it and understand the signs of REAL damage. Small risk, big reward...
  • progerproger Posts: 44
    I have the same model and year (MDX, 2004}. So far no tranny problem at 100,000 miles. So for maintenance purposes, I would then have my tranny flushed and so with my radiator in the near future. Thanks for the info.
  • newbie03newbie03 Posts: 1
    edited April 2013
    Hey Everyone! I'm kind of new at all this (so please bare with me) :|.. lol! I have a *2008 Acura

    MDX* and I wanted to know a little more about what other Owners were paying for maintenance

    fees. Usually the men of the house take care of details such as these, however I've been challenged

    to tend these matters on my own -- also for future purposes, I would like to take circumstances

    into my own hands so I'm better equipped to deal with such aspects if need be :). Recently, I

    received a *B1* service message and was wondering pricing quotes others have recieved ?! Also,

    there has been issues with the *battery dying*, as of late, and it continues to be an on going issue

    even after the vehicle has been jump-started. If one doesn't drive the truck for a day -- it'll be dead!

    Lastly, I was wondering how much it would cost for a *wheel alignment* and having your *break

    pads* changed ?! One other piece of information: I'm from the Vancouver area in Canada --

    Thank-You to all of you in advance :).
  • Guys, need your help. Recently, got new MDX and want to keep in pristine condition as long as I can. To keep paint protected - which is better way -
    1. paint protection film
    2. Nose Mask
    3. Just repaint bumper after few years of use.

    Also, I have to part the car outside, so is it worth to buy car cover., if yes, which ones good ones out there.

    Thanks for your time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    If you're going to keep the car outside, the goal of 'pristine' isn't really feasible. Your car will over time show small signs of wear and tear if kept outdoors.

    My opinion is that 'paint films' or coatings are a waste of money, and that having the car waxed 2X a year is about the best you can do.

    Nose masks can protect paint but also cause problems for paint, so it's a trade-off of sorts--you may end up with less chipping but more discoloration over time.

    Repainting the bumper shouldn't be necessary unless you are hit while parked--a little chipping in the front bumper can be dealt with by using a touch-up stick from the dealer.

    Car covers can be a real pain but they certainly will keep the car cleaner. The downside is when it rains and they get wet--how do you dry them if you've taken them off to drive the car---and putting a wet cover back on a dry car creates a mess----and the wind blows them off. You don't want a water proof cover because that traps moisture, so a "breathable' cover would be best. They do make them in hi-tech materials and probably, if you don't mind all the hassles that go with covers, it's the best thing for protecting your car from UV light, airborne debris, air pollution, and animals.

    But "pristine" isn't going to happen with an outdoor car.
  • Thanks for your reply.

    I agree that by keeping it outside not going to help.

    Regarding Paint Protections Films (XPEL or 3M), I read that they can protect from chips, bugs highway driving. I am kind of leaning towards them. XPEL says it has even self healing mechanism. My concern is that will it create lines on paint and how easy its to remove or replace.

    On car cover I read about getting scratches while taking it on - off.

    regarding wax -- which wax are good out there.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    This ARTICLE on waxes vs. sealants might be helpful!
  • I was reading in the forum and I believe someone said that their 2004 mdx had a transmission recall. I was wondering if anyone else has this information because the dealer has no idea what I am talking about.
  • please i need your help badly. i have the clunking noise problem on my acura mdx. but i cannot open the link that you posted. please can you tell me what the bulletin said. thank you
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Try searching for it at You have to register but it's free and they usually have the full text TSBs.
  • joryanjoryan Posts: 15
    Has anyone heard a griding/low belching type noise at low speed? Mine happens at low speed, typically less than 20 MPH just prior to the car shifting to 2nd gear, or sometimes when I slow down to 2nd gear and then lightly hit the throttle at around 20 MPH. It's not the same tapping ABS system check that happens. I can feel it just under the floor of the driver's side. It's not violent at all. I'm always very light on the throttle, and this is when it happens. The sound is a single, 1/4 second or so noise. The pitch of the noise is the same every time. I have tried to hear it/feel it when accelerating a little harder, and it doesn't happen. I have read up on some torque converter issues, and am thinking maybe that is what is starting to go bad. I have 65K miles on it and have changed all fluids many times.
Sign In or Register to comment.