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I want to be sure the dealership changed my filter the last time I had the MDX in. Do you have to un-screw the glove box retainer to gain access to the back where the filter is located? If so, how easy is it to put the glovebox back together? I tried to check behind the glove box near the floor and saw nothing...any help would be apprectiated...
i'm just curious if the site is as good as it looks. are people using it? what works, what doesn't?
signed,
jealous in toronto
Thanks
Hnikdel
You should shop online...There must be a honda accessories place that sells such items. I don't think hondaacuraworld carries such an item...but you could call/email and ask them?
However all gauges are different. The best pressure is where you have the most tread hitting the road...too high the center tread wears too fast, too low and the outsides wear out...best way is to check between 30-40 PSI and see how the tires look...once you determine how your gauge reads, just keep it the same.
A glaze is used every few months between waxes. Meguires New Car Glaze is good, Mother's California Gold Sealer\Glaze is good. They both have oil based "nutrients" that get into the finish and deepen the color and shine. It resists finger prints and inhances shine with synthetic polymers, it covers small scratches and "spider webbing" too. :shades:
I am considering a purchase of a 2003 MDX (navi +ras) with 59K miles on it. Is that a smart thing to do? Anything that I should pay special attention to when inspecting the car? Does Acura provide pre-purchase evaluation or something along those lines that I can rely on? Also, my 96 TL required 60K miles service, that cost about $1200. Should I be prepared for something comparable for MDX?
According to Acura records the car I am considering had breaks and the battery replaced at this point...
Any tips would be highly appreciated.
Thanks!
- New tires (Goodyear's) were required at 45,000. I probably could have gone an extra 5,000.
- Transmission recall at 62,000. Thankfully, I've not had any issues thus far with the transmission.
- 66,000 miles the check engine light appeared. Turned out to be a bad EGR valve. After I paid the $300 in repair expenses, Acura issued a recall and refunded me the money.
- 68,000 miles (car was 4 years old). Battery needed replacing.
- 72,000 miles the check engine light and VTM-4 light appeared. The car oscillated between high and low RPMs at idle and the car started driving very rough (I actually thought the transmission was about to go). Turns out to be a bad IAC valve. Repair cost was $300.
- 74,000 miles, I put on 4 new brake pads. I probably could have gone another 5,000 on the originals.
Overall, the interior leather has held up real well. It's now my #3 car so it sits outside in the winter and summer. If you keep conditioning the leather, the seats will hold up well! The exterior clear coat is starting to show some initial signs of wear.
Long term, I fear the expenses associated with the 105,000 mile maintenance work. Timing belt replacement is in the $800-$900 neighborhood (at current prices from a non-dealer repair shop). Hopefully, before I hit this mileage interval, a newly designed MDX will be available!!!
HTH
I probably could have done better if I had gone to honda I am sure, but I was trying a new dealer. Brake pads I could have gotten for probably $80 at an independent...but the time to take another day off work to get there didn't seem worth it.
So even better, I go out to my truck and the bumper is all scratched up. I brought it to their attention and they said they will take care of it. I cannot imagine they can do much for scratches in the plastic bumper? So this means at least another trip back.
My '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited was just as easy as any car brake job I had done, and the MDX is much more car/minivan like than the very off-road capable Jeep.
I assume it should be a cake walk.
Pulling a tire will tell you right away.
If you can get to the calipers and the rotors are easlily removed, you're in business.
Just a glance will tell you what you're in for.
And for half of that $570 price, you should be able to replace all 4 Rotors and install Lifetime replacement pads.
I know a lot of people go Ceramic, but I still swear by Bendix Semi-Metalic brake pads.
Quiet, awesome stopping power, last a long time, have a lifetime replacement warranty, and not too bad in the brake dust department. (I also wax my wheels)
And with all new parts, the install is quick and painless.
Just remember to clean up and lube your Caliper slides.
Best of luck!
EPA Report says: "2001/2 MDX EGR valve warranty was extended to 8 yrs/80,000 miles.....Mfr Recall # is WER-02-038-00, Acura service bulletin # 05-019"
A good source is MyCarStats.com......you have to sign-up and provide an email address. Much of the info is free. Copies of bulletins can be purchased from a third party.
I too purchased my 2001NAVI when there was a four month wait for them. After 53000miles my report:
- Replaced the Goodyears with CrossTerrains at 44,000
- Had the 2nd gear lube jet added under the Trans. recall
- Had the front springs replaced under the corrosion recall
- No EGR issues, yet
- Plastic Leather ("Pleather") arm rests in the doors and center console begain to disintegrate leaving sticky/tacky surface, Acura replaced out-of-warranty
- Poorly designed clips holding the back panel of drivers seat would no longer hold the panel up, Acura replaced entire panel in-warranty
- 52,000 miles replaced the brake pads myself, in my opinion, front rotors were marginally designed and do tend to warp, new pads removed any pulsing I saw during high speed braking, I will look to replace with vented and slotted aftermarket rotors some time [Acura service depts using this as a money maker, charging folks to replace rotors that have been warped ("hot spots") - the rotors should have been designed to handle the heat of stopping a truck of this size]
-53,000 updated the Navigation system DVD, new DVD contains more information which slows down the old processor as it sorts for an acceptable route, still the best navi system I've seen and its been in Hondas for over six years.
This vehicle was first to offer the third row seat in a modest sized SUV. Still getting 22+ mph on highway trips.
Biggest complaint has been the fact that it is a door ding magnet. Honda is just starting to understand how build really big (wide) vehicles to survive the "urban jungle".
Crossing my fingers as I approach 60k, 70k ,and 80k with the original transmission design. Would probably have bought a Pilot fully-loaded if they have been available.
Sometimes you can get your service writer to burn you a copy of a TSB. Alldata sells full text but Honda TSBs aren't available.
Steve, Host
You've probably serviced the brakes by now but,
I did my 01 MDX pads myself. Not much different from a standard car disc brake job. I used the OEM replacements and paid around $140 for all four wheels (which included the anti-squeal grease and shims).
If you have to turn the rotors due to warping, thats another story.
If you have to replace the rotors due to loss of thickness or severe warping, note that the hub nut is deformed after it is installed (as a locking feature) and you will need to replace these.
In my experience the dealers have been very aggressive in selling new rotors to uninformed customers. Have them measure the thickness of each rotor and give you a comparison of the actual thickness to the minimum service thickness. [And tell them you want the old rotors once they change them out - this may prevent them from "pulling a fast one".] The cheapest (not recommended) each new rotor goes for on-line (you need four) is about $60.
Any idea?
Thanks.
If the road has excessive crown, there's a slight chance of the car slightly heading in that direction... but my 06 MDX flies perfectly straight!
Paid nothing as it is one month old and problem is not normal wear and tear.
Thanks scottm123.
www.Meguiars.com
It's very easy to apply, wipes off without any power or residue, and the results are phenomenal.
I've got an 06 MDX Touring, Sage Brush Pearl.
After waxing, in the sun, it looks like you could go swimming in the finish.
I use this on my wheels as well. It makes for very easy removal of brake dust.
I suggest applying approx every 3 months.
The NXT-Generation Car Wash is fantastic as well.
It PH Balanced and wont remove your newly applied wax.
There's no worse thing that can be done to your vehicle than a commercial car wash.
I know winter is coming and it's horribly cold outside, but I suggest waiting for those warmer days (ie, above freezing) and doing it with the self-serve stalls.
DO NOT use the brush, but just the wand with high pressure soap and rinse.
You can keep a jelly blade in the car to remove most of the water, and a micro-fiber towel will quickly remove the rest.
Your ride will come out dryer than the auto-wash, and you won't get those frozen lines of salty ice down the sides as you drive away.
As for the wax, it's the sun that does most of the wax break-down... and the sun does it's evil abuse to our cars year round.
Glad you tried the NXT... My MDX sparkles like crazy when I'm done... and yes, that's a very big car to wax (LOL).
You'll notice that the wheels will still need a little soap and water to come clean, but no where near the work needed before they were waxed.
Mr_Shiftright, "Teflon Paint Sealants Revisited" #7, 10 Jul 2003 9:33 am
Interesting recent paint article on Edmunds:
"The difference [in paint] today is that resin is a waterborne polymer engineered at the molecular level. This works to lower air-polluting emissions when it's sprayed on, and it produces a long-lasting, UV-, tree sap- and bird-dropping-resistant finish. "Everything is done at a nano level," Cressy explains further. "There is new spraying equipment that atomizes the paint much more productively without overspray. And the paint often has an electric charge so it adheres better to the [oppositely charged] body. The technology around paint has changed more in the last 10 years than it had in the previous 60."
Color's Bright Future
Tell that to the owners of the Acura TL who chose Nighthawk Black Pearl as their color.
One thing you won't hear is that it's long-lasting, UV-, tree sap- and bird-dropping-resistant.
Technically speaking, the easy to find, inexpensive to buy, easy to apply suggested NXT is synthetic, so it's not really a wax at all, it a sealant.
Even the Teflon sealants need to be re-applied.
Don't be fooled by the sealant protection package offered from just about every car dealer... their a complete waste of money.
Take your new car home, give it a nice wash with a ph-balanced car wash (Not dish soap), clay the car to remove any remaining rail dust and microscopic debris, and then give it a nice coat of wax/sealant.
Whatever product/method you choose... with a nice shiny car, life is good.
This one will suck you in if you aren't careful:
Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair
(not as bad as the Zaino one though, lol).
Before taking delivery of the car, I went to Babies-R-Us and bought a seat protector.
I have, for various reasons, removed her seat about a dozen times since taking delivery in May and the seats look as new as the day we bought the car.
Here is a link to the product.
Two Stage Car Seat Protection
Use the self serve if you worry about freezing the driveway, but never the machine!!!
If you insist on using the machine...
The bag is placed on the rear wiper because as the car goes through, the rags that hand down and swing about can get caught on the read wiper as the car passes through.
If they get caught, the will tear the wiper clean off.
The bag helps keep the rags from getting caught on the little edges of the wiper arms.
Good luck! :shades:
Adding this additional protection will keep your seats from getting those horrible indents, that never go away.
The car seats fit so tightly that they dig into the padding beneath the leather.
Over time, it ruins the seats.
This car seat protector is thick enough that it protects from those dents.
I'll never install a car seat without one again.
And for the low cost, once it gets dirty and nasty, it's not so much to replace it.
Seat Back Protector