Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
Well I just read your post and the three answers that followed, all of which made good points & questions asked should have been enough to cause you to pause.
Here is the Audi USA page and link to Certified Pre-owned Audi's in the USA.
I would read through that first before doing what your considering. Then I would do a search through the Audi Web page and locate all the pre-owned vehicles of your liking and budget.
As for that Japanese owned Audi, the shipping on a 2001Audi will cost you about 25% of the asking prices of the car depending on where you live in the US. If your located near a major port;IE, Charleston SC> New York, Houston,Los Angeles, San Francisco, Etc. then you have land based delivery from port of entry,Insurance, Import duties, Equipment modifications to meet US Vehicle standards (Parts plus Labor), Exhaust emission standards, and maybe even sales tax. Then of course you would want to know what the car is worth before you buy it.
But it should be obvious at this point that what it's going to cost you to buy the car, ship it,modify and certify the car for US standards is more that it's worth.
As for the reliability of the Pre July 2004 audi's I would stay away based on what I've read here about systemic problems with those models. A 2005 or newer would be a better choice if it's in your budget. That being the case an Audi is going to cost you for servicing. A warranty is the only way to protect yourself from a major component failure. And with the price of gasoline going up on regular basis, the only way to drive an Audi these days is with liguid propain Gas ( LPG) system installed. LPG is cheaper but it uses slightly more fuel than when run on gasoline but below a certain temperature Approx.-10Centigrade, it will not start.
So I guess you really need to do more research before jumping on the Audi Wagon from Japan.
Good Luck.
JKAudiA6 :shades:
Thank you sooo much for the advice. I am now much more wiser and i have definately abandoned this idea. Thanks guys.
Anyway, I need help with 2 things: i need the brake bleeding order for both A6 & S6 (with hydralic clutch), and do you have a good photo or detailed drawing of the upper strut assembly for correct reassembly?? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I hope to hear from you soon.
I mentioned the issue with the turn signal not working in my A6, come to find out...it was the hazard light switch that was causing the issue. Total charged to get fixed...$130.
Well...recently, took the car in to get a CV joint looked at and found out both had to be replaced. So...to get both CV joints replaced, oil change, new spark plugs & faulty brake light switch replaced cost me just under $1200. I found this great place in Springfield, VA. Dealer wanted approx. $500 just to replace one CV joint.
The place I took the car also said they can service the transmission, which will run me about $240 which isn't bad because to get my Azera's transmission serviced ran me about $225. The next big move I have to make on the A6...timing belt. With the car creeping up on 85K miles, it needs to get done soon. As of right now, the car is purring like a kitten and running like cheetah!
I also had the issue with the check engine light flashing and the car running rough (missing), come to find out...an ignition coil was bad and heard about the recall. Funny thing is...the day after I found out about the recall, I got the letter in the mail. Took it to Audi and they took care of it with no issue with no problems.
Have a great day!!!
You must have a really large set of tools to do all that work.
Brake bleeding, one might think is an easy thing but, with ABS and ESP traction controls you may need a special bleeder to get all the air out. I don' t have any pic's of front strut assembly but Audi has info on both. You don't sound like your interested in going to the dealer so I would say, use Audi Erwin.Com USA.
There flat rate is hourly, you pay in advance, Approx.$8.00/hr. Get your chassis number from the Vehicle, year model etc. register on there web page and locate the documents, diagrams, etc. you need to do both jobs. They even have info on the correct tools needed to do the job.
But if "Your Mechanic" did the front end work, why don't you just take it back to him, or does he not guarantee his work.
Hope this helps
Best regards
JKAudiA6 :shades:
Audi recalls are listed on the Audi Web page. You simply ID your Vehicle with VIN Number and they will tell you if there are any recalls for your model. No need to wait for the letter or go to the dealer.
Check your Mfg. date of your vehicle, if it's pre-July 2004 it has a timing belt if it's after July 04 then it has a Chain driven Cam Shaft system. I posted a DATA sheet to this web page for the 2005 A6.
Best regards
JKAudiA6 :shades:
I didn't wait for the letter, as a matter of fact...the website told me the letter wouldn't come out until June. It just so happened after I called the Audi dealer to set the appointment, the letter showed up the next day...a funny coincidence.
I will look at the build date of my A6 and see what it should be. The guy I took it to for all the work seems to already know it has a timing belt as he informed me that it would need to be changed.
As usual, your insight is greatly appreciated!!!
Many thanks and best regards.
This should be a recall for poor design. We would have thought Audi would have tested this before putting the transmissions in their cars, but then again it's the all mighty $$$. If you happen to screw up the transmission, you have to fix the transmission to get rid of the car (approximately $3,500 or more), or you are stuck with a giant paperweight in your driveway.
Never again will we buy an Audi. Buyers of Audi's beware.
We bought a 2004 Audi A6 avant about two years ago with 90K on it. It now has 130K.
In the last 5K miles, we have replaced at least 4K in repairs (but they are wear):
Timing belt with 12 other components and fluids flush (all of them): $1600
Ignition coil (recall): $0
New brakes and tires $1200 (because the 17" sport tires are huge)
And now the crank sensor is going. A $250 plug that we need to fix.
Has anyone had that problem before?????
But from 90-120K, NOTHING went wrong. The previous owner changed the fuel pump at 86K before he sold it.
Replacing your "OLD Noisy Lifters" with "USED"Lifter's does not make sense.
New lifters would be the simple answer if it were that easy.
Things you should consider before you start out:
How many miles has the car been driven?
What kind of Motor Oil are you using, Mineral based or Synthetic?
How many lifters 12 or 24, Hydraulic or Solid?
Are they self adjusting?
Replacing lifters usually means removing Camshafts, not for the faint of heart.
Lifters plus labor will cost $1000 or more.
If your sure it's a single lifter then I would do the following:
a. Compression check to see if all the cylinders are up to snuff, based on Veh.Mileage.
b. Check for Sludge build-up in the upper part of the motor, Valve cover and camshaft area.
c. Is the motor using more than one Qtr of oil/1000 Miles of driving?
d. Is the motor showing signs of overheating?
e. Check the spark plugs for carbon build-up or oil residue indicating a pure burn process.
If all these checks are within reasonable tolerance for the given mileage of the vehicle then:
Do yourself, or have done, a Motor flush with a reputable shop.
You don't drive the car during this process and follow the instructions on the can.
This takes about 30 minutes after which the motor Oil and filter must be replaced.
The Oil & filter replacement must be done while the motor is still @ operating temperature. If your vehicle is high Mileage and depending on the climate conditions where you live and drive you should use the appropriate Viscosity rated Oil;IE, 5/40;10/40 etc. The Link below will help you choose the one you need.
VW/Audi Oil codes:
http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0- 023.File.pdf
Replace your Mineral based oil with full Synthetic oil and add a can of valve lifter cleaner/lubricant; IE, Liqui Moly or other brand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1m8RiWe8vNU
Hope this helps:
JKAudiA6 :shades:
The most common appear to be problems with the transmission, power steering pumps, electrical system, etc. When I wrote Audi of America that every year I need to budget 2k just to fix problems with my 2002 Audi A6 (that only has 60k miles on it), I got several 'I am sorry sir....but you bought the piece of crap'. My wife's RX300 with 120k miles has about 1/4 of the repair cost as my Audi. I kick myself all the time for not buying the GS300 (that was the model name at that time).
Anyway...I cannot, in good conscience, every recommend an Audi from the early part of 2000's. I have read that once the car was redesigned (again)...2004/5 maybe...they fixed all the problems that were known in the earlier models. So, 3800 for a car that is gonna cost ya at least 1k per year to fix (even more given it has 140k miles on it), is not a good buy...in my opinion.
Thx.
For starters you may want to go to "Erwin.com" for Audi America buy an hours worth of time and research your "Locked in Park" problem there.
If your 95 has a Locking theft system then it gets a bit complicated and could be a number of thing.
As a comparison only: Here's what I hear when I start my 2005 A6 Quattro with anti-theft system and Tiptronic Automatic Trans:
a. Upon inserting the ignition key and turning to start position with foot on the brake
and transmission in park.
1. First a click under the dash which releases the steering column lock.
2. The motor starts.
3. Then I can change the Transmission to Reverse.
Note: On mine there is a switch under the center consoled which blocks the ignition from starting "IF the Park lever is not all the way forward in Park Position."
So if you follow the same procedure to start your car, then it would make sense the other switch under the brake pedal is for the "Anti Theft System".
If you have an owners manual look up the section regarding towing the vehicle and the related procedures. There may also be a section related to resetting the Electrical systems in your car by disconnecting the battery cable.
But my first choice would be ERWIN.COM.
Good Luck
JKAudiA6
If you have not already taken car of your brake bleeding I would suggest going to
Erwin.com Audi America. Buy an hours worth of time and get the brake bleeding procedure and diagrams directly from them.
You need your VIN Number (Veh.ID) to correctly ID your vehicle.
They will have all the diagrams you need.
Good Luck
JKAudiA6 :shades:
Just a short note to some, who have, no question had some bad experiences which resulted in bashing Audi, or some other model automobile.
First let me say, that in most if not all cases, Auto Manufactures "DO NOT" manufacture all the components on vehicles which they build. Today's vehicles have literally thousands of parts the greater portion of which are build by third party companies who specialize in a particular areas. The Vehicle manufacture provides those companies with specifications or tolerances in most if not all cases. That being said, I've included links to a Company called ZF Group, a German company which builds transmission along with several other components for vehicles of different types. ZF is a world wide organization, among those, the North America Division which has Manufacturing and rebuilding plants as well as a service chain which repairs and services there products. What this means, if I read it correctly is, they are independent of Audi dealerships which means that those who drive a Audi or other vehicle with a ZF transmission or other ZF product have an option for repair. So here are the list of transmissions and vehicles for which they were build
including a list of recommended Automatic and Manual Transmission OILS (ATF)
that are recommended by ZF. Please note that within the ATF list there are recommendations as to which ATF should be used and that "Failure to use the proper ATF Fluid can very well lead to Transmission failure". Finally, that even though ZF has it's own ATF Synth Oil which extends the servicing intervals of OIL changes they still recommend ATF OIL Changes.
http://www.zf.com/na/zfXmlServlet?resultUrl=/na/content/en/north_america/corpora- te_na/products_services_na/product_overview_na/ProductContentPage.jsp&sessionAtt- ribute=xmlRoot&serviceUrl=http://appsprod01.zf.com/zf.productDataBase/service/ap- plicationLayerSelect&applicationID=12288&applicationGroupID=&productTechnicID=12- 141&productGroupID=17902&productFormID=&productTypeID=316700&languageISOCode=EN&- businessUnitShortcut=&divisionShortcut=#menuArea
Hope this helps:
Best Regards
JKAudiA6 :shades:
i finally met him in late july or first of august 2007, this all started at end of march i think it was August till finally got audi to take the car back. truly a very difficult and stress full time which it should had not been communication was big failure for audi,
the day that happen there was two customer in service having a melt down with service rep over there issues , and i spoke to one ask him about his car , his statement to me was this is my second A6 and it my last , when first one was a lemon i just thought no way this would happen to me two times , so i know it was not just me , and looking at all comments on here i am surprised that any one buys one , and if you do decide to step into audi market buy extended warranty , and make sure that you never leave dealership with paper work showing worked performed and always demand a loaner if it in for warranty no matter if it a quick fix
if you ever have to call 800 customer care line start a log , date and time and who you talk to and what about
i think the car looks great but quality for money you pay for is not there or at least when i got mine and I even sent a Constructive letter to Audi CEO in Michigan about all my troubles and lack of care i was getting from there rep he did not even have enough courtesy to even send a letter back to say TOUGH , and if dealer says that service is included get copy of what is and for how long and be sure it on there letter head and signed , I had to get Maryland Attorney General office consumer affairs involved to get a result and did . As one audi owner said to me back during my troubles welcome to world of 4 rings hell , good luck
This may very well be to late but here goes:
The Automatic Gear shift lever release is controlled by several devices.
1. There is a sensor in the Ignition switch area ID's the Key
2a. The Ignition switch is encoded so when you put the key in the switch it knows if
its the correct key for that vehicle.
2b. The ignition key is encoded so the ignition switch can ID the Key.
3. There is another which which released the Automatic Trans gear shift lever when
items (1&2 have been done correctly.
4. In the center consoled area under the ash tray is a switch which allows you to release the gear shift should the vehicle need to be towed, for example.
Hope this helps.
jkAudiA6
Well your message is certainly laud and clear, in particular the portions that refer to "Customer Service and being responsive in a timely manner".
There are several lessons to be learned for all who read your comments.
a. The most important thing about any car purchased is not how fast it is, the paint color or the extras list.
b. That when you have a problem with a particular dealer or it's service department
you should make a calculated decision to find a more helpful/reliable Certified dealer service department or independent shop.
c. When all else fails, in particular when a vehicle is "a young timer" (within warranty& low mileage) do what ever it takes to get results, including the Attorney Generals office.
All of that being the case I'm particularly interested in where these vehicles are Mfg'd. I say that because although the emblem indicates "Made In Germany" I'm not so sure they are. I say this because in Germany, where I live, the independent
automotive Magazines, including ADAC (The equivalent of AAA) give Audi the highest reliability ratings. These ratings are based on Customer service feed back and confirmed service statistics for Germany.
And more to the point what is "Made in Germany" really mean. Engineered in Germany, built in the USA or Africa or Hungry or Poland??????????????
Well you get the point.
I don' t know how the fine print reads for extended warranties in the USA but in Germany it's a contract.
One year at a time
Kilometer dependent, that is as the kilometers increase on the Odometer the amount of extended warranty decreases;ie, 100%/90%/80%.................
It is a limited Guarantee based on Kilometers and length of ownership but transferable within that time period.
It is service dependent in that owners service booklet must reflect the Mfg's recommended servicing.
In general it only covers major components:
Drive train excluding normal wear items: (Brake pads, rotors, mufflers,etc.)
Electrical and electronics.
Finally I would simple tell you that when I had a BMW the rules of the game were
about the same, and I suspect that most every Vehicle Mfg. will have similar rules.
There is an old saying in the Sales profession:
"Sell the sizzle not the steak"
or in the words of Kenny Rogers (The country Western singer):
"You gotta know when to hold'em and know when to fold'em".
Hope your in a better position now than when you purchased you last one.
Best regards
jkAudiA6 :shades:
Are you the original owner of this vehicle???
If it's a diesel engine and depending on the model (Vehicle year) the catalytic converters in earlier models were not self cleaning;ie, they got dirty after a number of years then have to be replaced. This has since been changed, in that, catalytic converters are now self cleaning. OK.
If it's a Gasoline engine, then what kind of motor oil are you using?
See an earlier post of mine with a link to a PDF showing all approved motor oils for Audi/VW.
I don't mean the brand, I mean, Mineral based or Synthetic? VW/Audi has recommended Motor Oil standards and they should be followed. In particular Mineral based motor oils leave deposits on the "Lumda Sonda" sensor which is usually located in the catalytic converter. Check your owners manual or the Audi Web page for recommendations. Another options would be "The Car Bible" web page @ http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html#blackdeath.
I don't know what kind of Cam Positioning Device your Audi has but in my previous BMW it was an electronic devise with no moving parts. If it went bad it would seem to me that your engine would have been trashed as all the timing factors related to Valve and piston timing would be non functional.
As for the Air Flow meter meter, I've read information, again on the Car Bible, that spraying cleaner fluids, to remove dust, for exampled will level deposits on the hair fine wire causing it to give incorrect readings. Of course the control device for that unit is electronic as well.
I'm not familiar with the abreviation "AVK" but if it' means a rebuild engine, who did the work????
JKAudiA6 :shades:
AVK is Engine Code
CAT Converter has mandatory waranty of 8 years / 80,000 mi ... Audi has to replace it for free if within that.
For reference : Mini-Cat-Cel-Fix
There is MAF sensor cleaner made by CRC ... I saw my local PepBoy carries it.
I now have 98000+ miles on it and need my 95000 service done. Any hints as to what I should be aware. I know those service fees are exhorbitant and would like to lessen the "bite." Thank you, skiddadle
1.Engine light on which model A6;ie, Quattro 3.2l, 4.2l, 3.0l Turbo.............
The engine type would determine if you have one or two Catalytic Converters.
2. If your engine is using more than 1 quart/1000miles and I assume it is because your adding Oil.
My Question is what kind of oil have you been using for the last four years or since you've owned the vehicle?
3. The "Engine Warning light" will come on for a number of different reasons.
If you've been using a low grade gasoline, fuel or oil additives which are not recommended they can contaminate your Lamda Sonda sensor which is mounted directly in or near the catalytic converter/rs.
If will answer these three questions then I can be more specific.
Thanks
jkAudiA6 :sick:
OK, it's a multilevel problem in that it could be any one of several general areas pertaining to the Transmission and supporting elements:
1. Does the Lock release button on your Gear shift lever work?
2. What type transmission due you have:ie, Automatic which type?
3. Is the battery in the vehicle OLD or new?
4. Does your vehicle have All wheel drive (AWD) quattro with Electronic Locking of
the wheels when the transmission is in Park.
5. Do you hear any clicking sounds from the following areas when starting the engine and moving the gear shift lever to P,N,R?
a. Clicking near the Ignition switch
b. Clicking near the Gear Shift lever.
c. Clicking when you step on the brake, engine running or not?
If you can answer some or all of these question perhaps we can narrow it down do just a couple areas.
Note: If you don't feel comfortable with all this then have the vehicle towed to a reliable Audi Dealer or Certified Independent shop who has knowledge of Audi and the necessary test/Diagnostic equipment.
Your next question should be "What is a reasonable answer to your problem".
I would say that if the transmission gave you no problems/unusual noises or low fluids (ATF), then it could be a simple as a broken control switch, or low ATF Fluid, a control valve within the transmission, loose mechanical connection of the gear shift, a ECU (Control Unit) which control the Transmission functions or a combination there of any of the above. Without more information it's difficult to narrow it down.
An authorized Audi service center would be your best beat, but don't let them sell you a new/rebuilt transmission at this point.
Best Regards
jkAudiA6 :sick:
I have sustained some damage to my front passenger side along with some slight damage to the grill "bezel". My local dealer quoted me around $2200 for repair. My question is two-fold,
1: Should I just wait until I turn the the car in (5 months) and just deal with what they say then or could that backfire on me?
2:If I take it to a local collision shop and obviously save some cash is it possible when I do turn it in that it won't pass their muster and I still get hit for more fees?
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
You should compare both options.
1. If the accident was not your fault and your insurance company will pay the bill minus your deductible is one option.
2. Check your Leasing contract for turn in of a damaged car.
a. Normally the lease turn-in has conditions Mileage/year Max @ Turn-in......
and condition of car.
b. Under your conditions:ie, damaged vehicle, depending on the contract conditions you may have to pay them a portion or all of the repair cost.
The question really is: Is your deductible less than what it may cost you @ turn-in time in five months if the dealer charges you for the damage.
jkAudiA6 :sick:
Lately it has same over the potholes.
Will this be sway bar bushing, tierod or upper control arm bushing?
2002 A6Q Avant w/125k mi.
All of the above plus shocks or ?????.
Another words!
When the front suspension compresses something is squeaking. The car does not know if it's a "pothole or speed bump.
a.You need to get the car up on a lift and look for dry warn rubber bushings
leaking shocks, if they are hydraulic, or ball joints on tie-rod ends where the rubber bushing is leaking.
b. You could us a lubricating "Light Oil" and spray each of the aforementioned parts, one at a time, Test and repeat until the squeak stops. You could also go to a "Inspection Center where they have a Vibration machine to test and provide a printout of shock absorber analysis.
You should do this with a helper in the interest of saving time and energy.
c. Also try turning the steering Lock to Lock (Rt.& Left) which may also reveal a unusual noise if it's steering or linkage related.
Good Luck
JKAudiA6 :shades:
Any ideas please?
Thanks in advance.