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If you can get the defrost/floor to turn off, or operate one at a time, then it may be that you have a blocked vent. I'm not an expert at all, so maybe some members who ARE will have better advice.
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rebellady1964, "Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy" #312, 15 May 2005 8:22 am
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2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The blower works, just not cool air. I'm told there is no place around to recharge and that it might be the compressor. This was a sudden event--just turned on the air and not cold---not even cool...
I live in the Chicago area and really NEED air since I commute over an hour to and from my job. I'm a teacher, so I have to arrive cool and collected. . .and yes, I'm a lady : )
cherj :confuse: ">
A mechanic can eyeball to see if the compressor is engaging, in about two seconds. You don't have to retrofit. Any licensed AC shop can sell you the old R12 refrigerant.
What you need to do is have your system tested for freon level and to see if the compressor is working. This is very easy to do. If the compressor ISN'T working, then yes, it can get expensive and you might as well retrofit. But if you are just low on freon from a leak, then seal the leak and recharge with the old R12.
the a/c for this model.What should air temp be at the vent? The compressor is a remanufactured part from Carquest. Is there a more powerful compressor they could have used? Just doesn't seem quite as cold as the original.I paid a pretty penny for this job so I want to make sure they got it right while the fix is still under warranty. Do I need to go back and make sure they fully charged system?
link title
Thanks in advance.
It seems I can get it to work sometimes by shuting the engine and restarting and the blower will come on.
I think there is a resistor which I had cleaned by an auto repair shop in 12-04. Where is this resistor? Is it necessary to replace it or just clean its contacts?
Thanks for your help.
cherj
Thought about the heater core, but why the diminished air flow output, when I can clearly hear the fans working. It's like the ducting is disconnected, but how would that occur and where do I start to check? Anyone else with this issue? Solutions???
Thanks for any response
Just in case, can you feel the heater core? If it isn't hot, then you have a water circulation problem---but I suspect it will be hot.
If the heater core isn't hot AND you aren't getting any AC...hmmm....I need to think about THAT.....could be two problems at once.....
fuses for a/c and even the diode in the fuse box by the relay for a/c...thanks for any help
Does anyone know what might cause this to sort of ``stick'' in the heat mode? Could it be a sensor or switch of some sort? If it were a fuse, it wouldn't work at all, right?
Any suggestions?
I had the temperature control dial turned from cold to hot, while the a/c button was on and the fan was also on, ... I turned the temperature conrol dial back to cold and it stayed with hot air blowing out. .... It also seems that if you turn the temperature control dial to cold, shut off the a/c button (you just tap it in and out) and turn the fan to the offi setting, it still is sending out hot air.
I have another knob that has different vent settings, so I have to turn this to the floor/feet setting to keep the hot air from blowing at me right now -- usually I keep it set at the head setting.
My reasoning is that if the AC clutch is working, then you have either a bad heater control valve or a vacuum leak or bad servo motor not allowing your various blending doors to operate. You may be getting cold air but the various ducting won't allow it to enter the car and it keeps the heat vent on.
But we need to determine if the AC clutch is working or not.
I tried to get the local Nissan dealer to give me some ballpark figures on repairs if it were one of the three things you mentioned but all he kept saying was he couldn't do that until they took a look at it, and it would cost $89 to take a look at it.
I let them do an oil change and that was it, period. .... I also let them know the gas pedal sticks and they tried to tell me it was probably some sort of throttle issue and would be about $399. I think they are totally insane. I will definitely NOT be going back there -- at least not the local dealer, in any event. I've had issues with them before and the fact they are always trying to get you to spend $400 plus in auto repairs every time you go in for a simple oil change is one reason I'll never get another Nissan.
Do you have any idea at all what these sort of repairs run in the neighborhood of -- just a random guess would make me happy at this point. I just want some sort of idea on what I'm dealing with. My guess is it's probably the heater control valve or the motor -- I really doubt there's a leak here.
What is the best place to get this sort of thing looked at --back to another, but different dealer (I've had better luck at another Nissan further away from home) or an air conditioning specialist or foreign car specialist, or does it make a difference?
Thanks for all of your help.
You might get away with doing less and some people do and some don't.
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/r134.html
The latest failure occurred 2 days ago. The a/c was running fine when I started on a 100-mile trip, but gradually the "air flow" coming out the vents diminished. By the end of the trip, almost no air was coming into the passenger compartment, but what little there was (almost nothing) was still cold. Now, just hot air. What do you think happened?
I guess you could have the sytem checked first of all for leaks, then check the pressures, then each individual component. It could be a lot of things.
thank you
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Go to this website:
http://www.airconditioningforcars.co.uk/#howdoiknow
Then click on the FAQ that says:
"My car has AC but it is not as cold as the AC in my friend's car"
then click on Step 4, about using the "sight glass".
My dealer has told me they need to replace the whole dashboard unit at a cost of over $800!!! I'm pretty ticked off cause the car is under the warranty in Time but only over few thousand in miles and I am a loyal Nissan owner (over 7 cars). They tried to get me under the Goodwill Program but I was denied. I have my car "maintained" at the dealership every 5,000 miles and get replaced whatever they tell me needs replacing at the time. I DON'T sign on for the "Scheduled Maintencec Program" cause I see no need to spend over $300 for them to fill my washer fluid, check my cruise control, check my tire pressure, check the parking brake etc.
Can anyone help me with the diagnosis and any chance of raising the issue further at Infiniti to get results?
thanks
This just gets under my skin; especially seeing this is my 7th Nissan.