One of the alloy wheels on my 2001 LLBean (39K miles) started to corrode from the Subaru hubcap out about an inch. I had it replaced at 35.5K miles under warranty.
It came to the Subaru dealer in a thin plastic bag - no box, no nothing - with 2 nicks. The service manager noted that fact on the receipt and told me I have 12K miles to see if the nicks start to corrode.
The dealer said Subaru's parts distributor (contractor) sucks - at least for the metro NYC northern suburb area...
I am going to watch my tire installer like a hawk when I get new tires put on this weekend... I'll bring some felt along to place the wheels on! LOL!
I have problems with noises from valves. The car have a milage of 142000 km.I have changed to a syntetic (5-40)oil, but the problem will not disapear.Is it an idea to change to an ticker oil,or is time to change the hydraylic dampers.(exspensive?) I have also a problem with the clutch.the clutch have just been changed, but my problem is that the clutchpedal(hydr.systm) is sometimes sticking or wont return properly.This happens when I have a heavy braking.
Time to get crafty. I would put a layer between the caulk and the window, maybe some saran wrap or something else that could later be removed? Maybe wax paper since it doesn't stick to anything?
After the caulk dries you could remove it.
The stuff sticks like glue, but it dries flexible.
The bottom seal (where the glass retracts into the metal panel) on the entire length of the drivers door glass on my old Datsun split. I used black RTV silicon to essentially rebuild the rubber piece. The trick is to keep it on the outer surface or interior of the rubber, and not against the moving glass itself. The problem is that even when fully cured, the RTV 'seals' itself to the glass and will try and pull the rubber seal down with it. If it will contact the glass, try putting some talc powder or some other 'dulling' agent onto the RTV while still wet to decrease this tendency.
Join us tonight, 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for another round of automotive trivia and member-to-member chat. Test your skills (or multiple choice guessing ability) against other Town Hall members.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I have a 96 legacy L 2.2 L . For the past year, it has missed occasionally - maybe once in 2 or 3 weeks. Usually this is when the engine is relatively cold and often during acceleration. Sometimes it is rough at idle when first started but usually it idles fine. Occasionally it will miss after it has been driven for a long time. When it misses, it misses very bad.... seems to be resonating. If I change speed, either faster or slower, it will stop. I get a flashing engine light with P0304 code - miss in cylinder 4.
I have tried many things but can't seem to conquer this. I have:
Often when I do something it seems to be OK for a while but lately that hasn't mattered as much. Sometimes I've found the spark plug tip loose and will retighten it. Again when I would do something, it would be ok for a while ... perhaps several weeks.
Now it seems to be happening almost every day. so I took to a mechanic. He thought it was the coil and replaced it. The problem still happens though. He hasn't been able to find the cause. He says he has switched fuel injectors, wires, spark plugs, etc but can't find the cause.
I checked the NHTSA board and found several similar complaints but no clear solution. One note indicated there is a known problem with bad head castings and that Subaru might be recalling.
I'm at a loss. Does any one have any information or suggestions?
I've seen you post this before and would like to make a comment on your "synthetics strip seals" information. This is complete malarky that your mechanic passed along to you. Not only will synthetic not do anything to seals, but there is no such thing as a substance on the seals to prevent leaks.
Just wanted to stop an urban legend from developing. You should get your source for this on line with us so we can set him straight, eh?
I have a couple questions for you. Auto or manual? What is "resonate"? What is meant by finding a loose spark plug "tip", and what do you do to tighten it, and which cylinder is this happening on?
jfgray: I was thinking the fuel injectors, but you already changed those. It's going to take an experienced mechanic to trouble-shoot that problem.
Doug: it was the SoA mechanics that hosted that Edmunds.com chat. In fact, I bet it's in the transcript if you feel up to looking for it.
They said that dino oils form a layer of sludge on the seals which actually help seal them up, and that synthetic oil use can strip those and cause leaks.
They did say it would be OK to switch early. I don't recall if they mentioned spefic types of synthetics or not, but again the transcripts would show that.
Since it's only 1 cylinder missing and you do not mention replacing the distributor cap, I think it could be the culprit. Remove the distributor cap and clean the contacts, or if they're worn out - replace the cap.
Thinking about putting side turn signals on the front fenders right above the molding on my Legacy GT. Looks like it will be difficult to run the wires to the front turn signals. Anyone did this already?
Yeah I am planning on doing this, running the wires is the simple part, you just have to pull the headlamp assembly and tap into the signal wires, you can fish the wires through with a fish wire or drop the inner fender splash guard.
Cutting the holes for the Side markers is more of a challenge especially since I do not want to use any of the hokey aftermarket ones that are held on with screws I intend to use an OEM style where you have to drill or cut a fairly large hole in order to clip them in.
I assume that my base '02 OBW does not have them now. I think they only came on H6 models. If I order G3210AE000 (as shown in the Accessories book), can they be added to any current Legacy/OB without a major pain?
Wish I were on the chat - would have provided a different perspective on it. Yes, a little grundge is deposited on the seals and in fact all other parts of the engine. But the grundge does not in any way "block" oil leakages such that removing the grundge would be a bad thing. Interesting theory, however. I'm sure the dino oil makers would love to take out full page ads in all the papers "Dino oil automatically seals up engine leaks as you drive!!!" and the like..... Heh.
Pop an engine open and you'll find the grundge can be wiped away with a finger - hardly a factor against 30-80psi oil. Anyhoooo back to the regular programming, I guess
I'm not trying to start any flame wars, just posting something I've found regarding synthetic. FWIW, I have recently switched my '00 Outback with 27k to Mobil-1.
MYTH: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars. REALITY: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made.
ExxonMobil engineers are wary of conventional oils that tout their use of additional seal-swelling agents. With extended use, these agents can over-soften engine seals, resulting in leaks. More to the point, an oil additive will not rejuvenate worn or damaged seals. The damaged seal may have been caused by a worn rotating metal component in the engine.
If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. ExxonMobil also always recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.
To me, this means that an older engine that develops a leak after switching to synthetic would have still developed a leak sooner or later using dino.
It's easy on a Forester, you just exacto-knife a plastic cover and slide them in, then bolt on the cover provided.
With the OB, I think you have to remove the glove box for access. Still didn't sound too hard though. I heard that the Odyssey's are nearly impossible to reach and require all kinds of tools.
Interesting tid bit, but of course the manufacturer of the product is gonna claim that. If they said "our oil can cause leaks" they'd have a million lawsuits overnight.
Yep, the Odyssey requires some cutting in the glove box region, but I may try it anyhow. I downloaded the instruction sheet for the OBW, and it didn't look too bad. I also thought someone here had mentioned the need to hacksaw a brace (or maybe that was the Honda also...).
The amount of salt used on the roads this winter has created 'dust storm' like conditions in places. Never felt the need before for the filters, but am rethinking it.
I think that's the Honda. I read about it and my cousin told me about it. A lot of people get the dealer to do it the first time, then change the filters themselves.
I have one in my Forester, but then again I have asthma.
In December, my CD player jammed in my '02 WRX. They ended up replacing the entire CD player and then they had to ship my CDs back to me several months later. However, no problems with the new CD player. I guess it was just one of those things that happen.
The other day I noticed that I get a muffled "pop" sound from right behind the driver's side footwell when I turn the engine over in the morning. I also noticed that the engine seemed a little louder on the driver's side. When under load, I could hear what sounds like a flapping noise from behind the footwell also.
I'm thinking that something came loose in the exhaust near the headers. Any one else care to guess what it might be?
Last year, I had the dealership replace my heatshields because they were coming loose. In the process, they inspected the y-pipe and exhaust for any other damages. I'm guessing this might be a result of that work. Any guesses?
Also, would a leak in the exhaust result in a slight loss of low end power due to a drop in backpressure? It seems like I have a little less off-the line grunt, but I'm not sure.
I'm going to make an appointment with the dealer soon.
OK, I got the mudflaps installed [can't say it's a full install - front flaps held up by only 2 instead of 3 screws]. Anyway, I tore a section of the wheel well cover, about 1", when trying to move it out of the way to insert clips. So, is a DIY repair/patch available?
I would try a little "5 minute epoxy". If it is the liner in the wheel well, it is a fairly inconspicuous spot. A little glue, a little dirt to cover the glue - good as new!!!
Dennis- Yes, I would recommend them. I was just not being careful at prying the wheel well cover out of the way. Didn't realize that there is unexposed edge behind the rim of wheel well.
Well I did it over the weekend. Lessons learned, be carefull when using that &^^%%$ Dremmel tool to smooth out the whole. When you drill a large diameter whole use the step method (I had to do a 3/4 inch round whole so I drilled a pilot whole then used a 1/2 inch bit then the 3/4 inch bit) with a new or very sharp drill bit. Once the wholes were drilled I used some rust preventer with undercoating over it. Spray a little in the can cap then use a samll brush to apply. Installed it 5 inches from the door side of the fender with 3 inches down from the pin stripe. It looks factory.
Aparently, regarding the clutch-shudder problems on 2002 Imprezas, if the dealer can diagnose the problem, they replace the clutch (just started to experience this in my WRX).
- Does anyone know if this is an upgrade to the 2003 WRX clutch with the bleeder valve?
Yesterday afternoon I gave the Forester its first hand washing of the year. It's going to need a more thorough going over as there are a lot of little scratches in the finish from this winter's routine snow and ice removal as well as plenty of little gouges in the front fascia, the result of driving in municipalities that gravel and sand, rather than salt, their roads.
Anyway I noticed that the RR mud flap was not seated to the body as closely as its counterpart on the left. Closer inspection revealed that the flap was loose, with the middle of the three hex head screws that hold it in place popped out from its hole. (I can only imagine that I did that by backing into a snow bank.) I can't tell if I stripped the hole as clearance is tight and I can't get a ratchet wrench, much less my hand, in the wheelwell space between the flap and the tire.
I guess I'll have to remove the tire to make the fix, or else find a pivoting head for the wrench.
I presume you tried just jacking the car up? curious if you wouldn't have enough room to get in there with that corner of the suspension at full droop...
I am photo technically challenged. However I used a rectangular shaped signal with white lens and yellow bulb. It is hooked up to the turn signal so only goes on with the signal not with the parking lights. As far as size, it is about 1x3 inches
Looking forward to hearing what Patti says about head gaskets. I noticed the issue is discussed at length on the board 96subie linked above. The participant’s comments imply it’s a problem well known to everyone except Subaru. One of the posters claims a German magazine surveyed owners and found 8% had the problem. (He posted the magazine link, but the article is in German. He also notes the magazine considers the cars reliable.)
Thinking out loud here it’s hard to imagine Subaru isn’t aware of it. Just log on to a couple of discussion groups and you can see how common it is. If 8% is accurate and they know about it, it would be poor business judgment to ignore, in my opinion.
As a customer who parted with a large amount of cash for a new product, directly from your authorized dealership, I am asking you to clearly state your position on head gasket replacement beyond the warranty period. It is unreasonable for any company to expect customers to accept the potential costs of such a major repair within the first 3 years of ownership.
If so, I'd drive the front wheels up on those, then jack up the rear at the rear differential (I've done it and it managed the weight fine).
Then get under the vehicle and try to trace the noise. If it only happens at certain rpm, you might need the wife to hit the throttle to try different rpms.
It could just be it was rusty after this winter, and one good bump knocked it loose. They can sometimes re-fasten it if that's the case.
Is the OE exhaust stainless? I wonder, if not it's prolly not worth saving. Here's your excuse for an aftermarket one.
had those V-6 engines blowing their head gaskets around 100K, it covered all the repairs for 8 years from date in service, regardless of mileage.
There are lots of things you can reasonably expect would go in a car, but I think you should be able to expect the head gaskets to go longer than 100K (or longer than 150K, to my high-standard way of thinking!) barring abuse.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The noise does seem to come from right under the engine so I'm not sure if it's the y-pipe or exhaust.
The noise is most noticeable when the engine is under load and around 3000 RPM. Any higher than that and the engine noise drowns it out.
I'm pretty sure there's a leak somewhere because my garage stinks like exhaust fumes when I start the engine in the morning -- not to mention the aftermarket exhaust like sound I get.
I'm hoping whatever it is will be covered by the dealer since they did exhaust work on it about 6 months ago. I'd consider an aftermarket exhaust, but I'm saving my pennies for my next Subie! ;-)
Comments
It came to the Subaru dealer in a thin plastic bag - no box, no nothing - with 2 nicks. The service manager noted that fact on the receipt and told me I have 12K miles to see if the nicks start to corrode.
The dealer said Subaru's parts distributor (contractor) sucks - at least for the metro NYC northern suburb area...
I am going to watch my tire installer like a hawk when I get new tires put on this weekend... I'll bring some felt along to place the wheels on! LOL!
Ralph
lars11
Not sure about the clutch, sorry.
-juice
I wonder if it will hold up to the action of the window pushing up against it. The tear is right at the apex of the gasket.
Ken
Time to get crafty. I would put a layer between the caulk and the window, maybe some saran wrap or something else that could later be removed? Maybe wax paper since it doesn't stick to anything?
After the caulk dries you could remove it.
The stuff sticks like glue, but it dries flexible.
-juice
Steve
Join us tonight, 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for another round of automotive trivia and member-to-member chat. Test your skills (or multiple choice guessing ability) against other Town Hall members.
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MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
I have tried many things but can't seem to conquer this. I have:
1- changed fuel filter
2- changed plugs and wires
3 - replaced pcv valve
Often when I do something it seems to be OK for a while but lately that hasn't mattered as much. Sometimes I've found the spark plug tip loose and will retighten it. Again when I would do something, it would be ok for a while ... perhaps several weeks.
Now it seems to be happening almost every day. so I took to a mechanic. He thought it was the coil and replaced it. The problem still happens though. He hasn't been able to find the cause. He says he has switched fuel injectors, wires, spark plugs, etc but can't find the cause.
I checked the NHTSA board and found several similar complaints but no clear solution. One note indicated there is a known problem with bad head castings and that Subaru might be recalling.
I'm at a loss. Does any one have any information or suggestions?
TIA
I've seen you post this before and would like to make a comment on your "synthetics strip seals" information. This is complete malarky that your mechanic passed along to you. Not only will synthetic not do anything to seals, but there is no such thing as a substance on the seals to prevent leaks.
Just wanted to stop an urban legend from developing. You should get your source for this on line with us so we can set him straight, eh?
IdahoDoug
IdahoDoug
Doug: it was the SoA mechanics that hosted that Edmunds.com chat. In fact, I bet it's in the transcript if you feel up to looking for it.
They said that dino oils form a layer of sludge on the seals which actually help seal them up, and that synthetic oil use can strip those and cause leaks.
They did say it would be OK to switch early. I don't recall if they mentioned spefic types of synthetics or not, but again the transcripts would show that.
-juice
Since it's only 1 cylinder missing and you do not mention replacing the distributor cap, I think it could be the culprit. Remove the distributor cap and clean the contacts, or if they're worn out - replace the cap.
If so, you may need to re-program the ECU.
-juice
-juice
Cutting the holes for the Side markers is more of a challenge especially since I do not want to use any of the hokey aftermarket ones that are held on with screws I intend to use an OEM style where you have to drill or cut a fairly large hole in order to clip them in.
Hopefully when I do mine I will post photos.
Cheers Pat.
Steve
Wish I were on the chat - would have provided a different perspective on it. Yes, a little grundge is deposited on the seals and in fact all other parts of the engine. But the grundge does not in any way "block" oil leakages such that removing the grundge would be a bad thing. Interesting theory, however. I'm sure the dino oil makers would love to take out full page ads in all the papers "Dino oil automatically seals up engine leaks as you drive!!!" and the like..... Heh.
Pop an engine open and you'll find the grundge can be wiped away with a finger - hardly a factor against 30-80psi oil. Anyhoooo back to the regular programming, I guess
IdahoDoug
Found this at the Mobil1.com site: http://www.mobil1.com/why/myths.jsp
MYTH: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars.
REALITY: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made.
ExxonMobil engineers are wary of conventional oils that tout their use of additional seal-swelling agents. With extended use, these agents can over-soften engine seals, resulting in leaks. More to the point, an oil additive will not rejuvenate worn or damaged seals. The damaged seal may have been caused by a worn rotating metal component in the engine.
If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. ExxonMobil also always recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.
To me, this means that an older engine that develops a leak after switching to synthetic would have still developed a leak sooner or later using dino.
FWIW, YMMV, :-)
-Brian
With the OB, I think you have to remove the glove box for access. Still didn't sound too hard though. I heard that the Odyssey's are nearly impossible to reach and require all kinds of tools.
-juice
Interesting tid bit, but of course the manufacturer of the product is gonna claim that. If they said "our oil can cause leaks" they'd have a million lawsuits overnight.
-juice
The amount of salt used on the roads this winter has created 'dust storm' like conditions in places. Never felt the need before for the filters, but am rethinking it.
Steve
I have one in my Forester, but then again I have asthma.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
I'm thinking that something came loose in the exhaust near the headers. Any one else care to guess what it might be?
Last year, I had the dealership replace my heatshields because they were coming loose. In the process, they inspected the y-pipe and exhaust for any other damages. I'm guessing this might be a result of that work. Any guesses?
Also, would a leak in the exhaust result in a slight loss of low end power due to a drop in backpressure? It seems like I have a little less off-the line grunt, but I'm not sure.
I'm going to make an appointment with the dealer soon.
Ken
Anyway, I tore a section of the wheel well cover, about 1", when trying to move it out of the way to insert clips.
So, is a DIY repair/patch available?
TIA
-Dave
A little glue, a little dirt to cover the glue - good as new!!!
Steve
-Dennis
Yes, I would recommend them.
I was just not being careful at prying the wheel well cover out of the way. Didn't realize that there is unexposed edge behind the rim of wheel well.
-Dave
http://pub1.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsthenewgenerat- ionofsubarus
- Does anyone know if this is an upgrade to the 2003 WRX clutch with the bleeder valve?
Anyway I noticed that the RR mud flap was not seated to the body as closely as its counterpart on the left. Closer inspection revealed that the flap was loose, with the middle of the three hex head screws that hold it in place popped out from its hole. (I can only imagine that I did that by backing into a snow bank.) I can't tell if I stripped the hole as clearance is tight and I can't get a ratchet wrench, much less my hand, in the wheelwell space between the flap and the tire.
I guess I'll have to remove the tire to make the fix, or else find a pivoting head for the wrench.
Ed
cheers Pat.
I presume you tried just jacking the car up? curious if you wouldn't have enough room to get in there with that corner of the suspension at full droop...
-Colin
Contacted Patti and she's awaiting a new PC at home with DSL service. She expects to be back (with a vengeance) in about 2 weeks.
-juice
Thinking out loud here it’s hard to imagine Subaru isn’t aware of it. Just log on to a couple of discussion groups and you can see how common it is. If 8% is accurate and they know about it, it would be poor business judgment to ignore, in my opinion.
It's been unusually quiet here so I'll post a link to my original post/question:
kens Mar 22, 2003 5:40pm
I'll be bringing my Forester in tomorrow to the dealer.
Ken
For the folks under warranty, they are covering it, right? I wonder what % of those happen after the warranty runs out.
60k miles is longer than a lot of companies offer, but still.
-juice
If so, I'd drive the front wheels up on those, then jack up the rear at the rear differential (I've done it and it managed the weight fine).
Then get under the vehicle and try to trace the noise. If it only happens at certain rpm, you might need the wife to hit the throttle to try different rpms.
It could just be it was rusty after this winter, and one good bump knocked it loose. They can sometimes re-fasten it if that's the case.
Is the OE exhaust stainless? I wonder, if not it's prolly not worth saving. Here's your excuse for an aftermarket one.
-juice
If you are gonna be under the car use proper jack stands especially if you are going to have the car running and somebody goosing the throttle.
Cheers Pat.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
There are lots of things you can reasonably expect would go in a car, but I think you should be able to expect the head gaskets to go longer than 100K (or longer than 150K, to my high-standard way of thinking!) barring abuse.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The noise is most noticeable when the engine is under load and around 3000 RPM. Any higher than that and the engine noise drowns it out.
I'm pretty sure there's a leak somewhere because my garage stinks like exhaust fumes when I start the engine in the morning -- not to mention the aftermarket exhaust like sound I get.
I'm hoping whatever it is will be covered by the dealer since they did exhaust work on it about 6 months ago. I'd consider an aftermarket exhaust, but I'm saving my pennies for my next Subie! ;-)
Ken