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Comments
-mike
I have an outback sport that has a problem w/ the A/T oil light flashing when driving on the highway. This has happened to me about five times in the past two years. Last night, it happened twice, and the check engine light also came on.
Took it to the dealership and apparently there are two TSBs for this problem, involving parts that cost about $500 each. One TSB is covered under 80,000 mile warranty, the other one is not.
To me this really doesn't seem fair as the two issues are tied together. I was also told I shouldn't drive the car as the computer problem could cause trouble with shifting.
Has anyone else had this problem? Anyone have any success fighting to get the second TSB part paid for?
Much thanks...
Lynn
P.S., of course, I was just yesterday telling my sister that I've had very few problems with this car!
Thanks for your advice in touching up my paint chipped spot. I'm not thrilled with my job, but should it ever happen again I'll have a bit more of a clue.
I probably DID overdo it - was trying to do lots of small dabs, just up to the edge of the chip, when I think 2 or 3 broader strokes would have been smoother.
The other issue was the weather - parts dept. told me to do it inside with at least 65 deg. temp. I have no garage, & although I did it mid-day, the temp wasn't quite up there. (& it won't be for awhile!) I think the paint would have gone on a bit more smoothly had it been warmer. I could have warmed the paint up in the sun for awhile.
Well, lessons for next time.
Jillian
I have my '96 Legacy Gt serviced at Bill Kolb Jr. Subaru in Orangeburg, NY. Their service is fine. Here's the link.
http://www.billkolbjrsubaru.com/
Craig
Call the 800 number for Subaru, and open a ticket for the issue. Lobby SoA to pay for it, since it's a known, documented problem (the TSB proves that).
If that still doesn't help, contact Patti Mickel at SoA with the case number, and she may be able to help out. Whether they'll cover it or not depends on the exact problem, I guess.
-juice
These are just educated guesses, but it could be an O2 sensor, fouled spark plugs, bad spark plug wires, clogged air or fuel filters, etc.
The CEL by itself could just be a loose gas cap, but the coughing implies something is wrong with the engine, though it could be minor.
Take it to a mechanic you trust. He'll have an OBD2 scanner to read the CEL code and find out exactly why it was triggered. At 95k, I'd go ahead and service all the items above if they haven't alreay been done, plus the all the belts and hoses.
-juice
Oxygen Sensors. Oh Yeah. If they seem expensive try www.buyoxygensensors.com Get the OEM over the universal. Connections will be more reliable, less labor to install.
Mark
Thanks for the advice about entering a ticket with SoA, I'll definately give it a try.
Interestingly, though, I remembered that I had brought the car in around 12,000 miles with the same problem. Searched my packrat disaster area and found the service sheet (whew!). All they did was reset the computer at that time. I'm hoping this document will be my ace in the hole if they don't want to help me otherwise, since I did originally report the problem while it would've been under warranty (though the TSB probably hadn't been issued yet).
Thanks again...Lynn
-juice
Patti
In general, synthetics can go for longer intervals without changing. There isn't one change interval works for everyone since a lot of factors like driving habits and engine condition can alter the oil breakdown rate. The only way to know is to have your oil analyzed, but that's overkill for most people. One thing you can do is to visually inspect your oil when checking levels. If it starts looking cloudy or dark, it's time to change.
Based on what I've heard, you can go well beyond the change interval of conventional oil: 5-7K miles on the conservative side.
One thing to keep in mind is that you still need to change your oil filter even if you go for longer oil change intervals.
Ken
I'm assuming that the "free" service that's part of the package (oil changes at 3000, 7500, then every 7500 miles to 30,000) doesn't include synthetic; I may be wrong here. At those distances, based on what (little) I know, I would prefer synthetic.
Jillian, & the Bean at 970 miles.
-juice
I have never used synthetics before. I don't have a strong opinion one way or the other on them. True, they flow a bit better at low temp, and are structurally more sound at high temp, but if you change on schedule will you ever see an appreciable difference in engine performance or wear for the life of your car? If you live in NY, it will surely rust to death long before the engine siezes up!!!!
Steve
arluk - sounds like it was your fuel pump from the beginning and rewiring was not necessary. I would replace the pump, check voltage at the pump and see what happens. Good luck.
Greg
Ross
Greg
LOL Greg, sounds like you pegged Mr. Barrett (barressa11). Me too, had it been a B4 or GT-B.
..Mike
..Mike
-juice
arluk - may I assume this means you tote an Arluk III to the ocean? It's my second favorite boat; my fave is the one I tote - my Eddyline Raven.
While the rust issue is better than it was, rust still doesn't sleep (to misquote an old song). My '90 Camry wagon was rusting out by the time I sold it in '97. Door bottom inside seams were swelled out, as was several points on the tailgate. Not uncommon for that series up here. Similar problems starting on my '93 Corolla wagon (traded in on the '02 OBW). On that car it was all hidden rust - gas tank and supports failure, structural problems beginning to show.
Maybe they use more salt here than in Putnam/Westchester?
Steve
Greg
thanks all.
-mike
-mike
0.039 to 0.043 in., 1.0 to 1.1 mm
Regards,
Frank
-BG
I have been thinking about getting a deflector or bra for my '01 VDC-now have paint chips- A VERY BIG
Anyone have one of these magnetic bras?
They claim no paint fading, rubbing, etc., but you can never believe a salesman.
But you guys I trust......
DUKEPHOTO IN WV
First, make sure the paint surface is absolutely free of all water, dirt and dust before applying the bra. Anything caught between the bra and paint will cause paint damage.
Second, the fact that there is no fading or oxidation is actually a problem. No matter how we care for the paint not covered by the bra, it's still going to oxidize and change color because of UV exposure and environmental fallout. It's a fact of life, paint colors change with age. Since the paint under the bra is protected, it will not change as readily as the rest of the paint. Hence, in time you will see a difference in the paint colors when you remove the bra.
Third, since it's not bolted down, I have a lingering concern about wind lifting the edges and even possibly shifting the bra. The website claims this doesn't happen, but I still wonder.
On the other hand, the website is absolutely correct about the problems with vinyl bras and bug shields. They too have their drawbacks. If you're paint finish was new, I'd recommend a Clear Bra or Invizibra. Since you already have chips, though, don't use these since the existing damage will just show through.
If you go with a magnetbra, let us know how it goes!
-mike
Regards,
Frank
I would worry about moisture and abrasive stuff getting under there, no matter what the website says. As a teenager, I drove a lot of construction trucks with magnetic signs. After a few months, they would always collect moisture and abrasive stuff that would "buff" away the finish underneath.
No matter what these guys say, there is nothing to stop moisture from getting under the magnet bra. Any two surfaces in close contact with each other will really wick moisture in (capillary effect) unless there is something in between (adhesive) to block it.
At $45, it may be worth a try. I think the invisibra is still a better choice, or even the hood deflector. Subaru deflectors have a good design that shouldn't damage the paint at all.
Craig
Where is the best place to buy touch up paint? Or should I have the dealer take a try at it?
Thanks, Dan
Len
-mike
Dan: touch-up paint is something like $5, so I'd just go to the nearest dealership.
Len: bummer. Life come in cycles, so you're due for a bout of good fortune.
120k on an H6? Was that a typo? Do you drive for a living?
-juice
Sorry to hear about your streak of bad luck. I'm sure once you get the new tire installed, things will be better!
Ken
Subaru of Wilton, Inc. 657 Danbury Road * Wilton, CT 06897 Phone (203) 761-9700 Fax (203) 761-0213
SERVICE ADVISOR: 9618 GERALD ULBRICHT
Color Year Make/model VIN License MILEAGEIN/OUT
Silver 98 LEGACY WAGON 4S31BK4352W7312113 59605/59608
Rate INV. Date
75.00 15JAN02
LINE OPCODE TECH TYPE HOURS LIST NET TOTAL
A
CUSTOMER STATES: REPAIR BRAKES AS PER LAST INSPECTION.
RBJ REAR BRAKE JOB MACHINED ROTORS/DRUMS AND
REPLACED PADS/SHOES
9752 VICTOR WINIGER LIC#: 9752
CP 2.50 187.50 187.50
1 26296AA062 BRAKE PAD KIT R 72.50 72.50 72.50
1 BC11 BRK CLEAN 5.95 5.95 5.95
NOTE: WE RECOMMEND PERFORMING THE 60,000 MILE TUNE UP SERVICE. COURTESY RENTAL CAR.
B** CUSTOMER STATES:SOMETIMES THE CAR LABORS WHEN SHIFTING IN CRUISE CONTROL. MISC ROADTEST AND INSPECT VEHICLE FOR SHIFT PATTERN. WE WERE NOT ABLE TO DUPLICATE PROBLEM AT THIS TIME.
@9752 9752 VICTOR WINIGER
CP 0.00 0.00 0.00
C** CUSTOMER STATES: PERFORM OIL CHANGE WTTH COUPON AND INSPECT FOR SERVICE. LOFSP $23-95 OIL CHANGE SPECIAL
Description Totals
Labor amount 200.98
Parts amount 88.92
Gas, oil, lube
Misc. charges 2.66
Total charges 292.56
Sales Tax 17.56
Pay this amount 310.12
It wasn't just the pads, FWIW.
-juice
-mike
I was skeptical about doing this myself, but after going through the FAQ and install pictures on their web site, it doesn't look that bad. Certainly, the Outback's hood is far less complicated than some of the other cars on the road. I used to install stripes and decals on boats, and this looks to be about the same or easier. We'll see. Hopefully I will get a chance to put the stuff on this weekend.
Craig
Regards,
Frank