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The car is a Wagon 4motion. The engine is the V6, 2.8L. The car is driven little so I changed oil at a VW dealer after just 952 miles (synthetic). Just before the 5,000 mile inspection I noticed that the oil was very low, hitting the low mark on the dip stick. After the inspection the tech mumbled something along the lines having drained about 4 quarts. The engine capacity is 6.3 quarts.
A test resolved that there is no leak or burning of oil. The only possible explanation is that the dealer underfilled by about 2 quarts at the 952 mile service.
Three obvious questions:
(1) Can this damage the engine (there was no oil pressure warning)?
(2) If so how could this be tested for (take off gasket heads)?
(3) If there is damage should I go straigt to VW of America (the initial dealer is 500 miles away and will of course deny anything).
Many thanks,
Frank
My guess is if you bring this back to VW they will say the consumption is within what they consider normal. They might go further to say that the owner's manual recommends checking the oil at every fuel fill.
Out of curiosity, what was their test for checking if the engine burned the oil?
52k MAF replaced (recall warranty)
66k turbo vacuum hose replaced (was a simple DIY job with only $10 in parts)
80k both CV joints replaced (ext warranty)
92k timing belt/water pump replaced (prev maint, $450 by my mechanic who loves to work on VW's)
but now I have a concern. I religiously have a fully synthetic oil change every 5k miles. I also know to let the turbo cool at 2 minute idle after "spirited" driving. This car is by far the funniest car I've ever owned, and I bought the car expecting high maint problems but comparing myself to fellow Passat owners, I should probably consider myself fortunate. However, my car is nearing 100k and about 3 days ago, I was leaving work and as I rounded the corners in the parking garage, I heard a terrible whine from the steering...I checked the fluid and it looks fine, and it's not any mechanical parts that just need to be greased...it sounds like it's coming from the pump or something. It's hard for me to explain the frequency of this noise but I will try anyway: It does it as I am turning the wheel, but once I turn the wheel to where I want it, it quits. If I go to turn the wheel more in the same direction, then it starts again until I hold the wheel in position. I am not that mechanically inclined, but do you think it might mean it's time to replace belts? I have been trying to stay on top of the maintenance schedule, but I don't know when I should start replacing belts. Also, my check engine light has been on for the last 15k, and the code is coming back as P-0411. I don't want to take it to the dealer which will charge me $90 to diag the code, and I was wondering if someone could shed some light on what might be involved to correct the problem. I researched the code and it said "Incorrect Air Flow" so I changed the air filter (which was awful). The light actually turned itself off for a few days but then came back on. Any help on my power steering issues and/or the P-0411 code would be greatly appreciated.
By the way, this is my second Passat. I bought a used 1990 Passat with 94k back in 2001, which succumed to a broken timing belt at 108k (this was before I even knew what I timing belt was...). Also, the power steering in it went out not long after I bought it, but it wasn't that big of a deal for me so I just drove without power steering. I don't want to have a 5 year old Passat with no power steering though, so it is more important to me this time.
You can get more info, pics, etc at passatworld.com forums. Can probably find out about the power steering whine, too.
Also, if you work on the Passat much, I recommend picking up VagCom software and a cable .. it'll allow you to check and clear the engine codes, among other things.
Hope this helps,
Dave
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve
This morning I got in my car to drive to work and i noticed that even though my E-Brake wasn't on, the break light wouldn't turn off. And then i noticed my headlights don't turn on and that my horn doesn't work. I have a 1999 Passat V6. Anybody know what needs to be fixed and how much it might cost me? I've just been pouring money into this car. ugh. :sick:
Any words of wisdom as to how best to get this issue resolved will be welcomed.
If yes, is this fix requires VW service attention and how approximately cost (CA)?
No idea on the cost - probably prohibitive. The seat adjustment still works, but it's a bit harder to move the seat up and down.
I'm still under warranty, so I'm going to see if my dealer will handle it.
Yet another "not uncommon issue" with the Passat and, actually, VW seats in general.
Therefore, it appears you broke a different spring responsive for the lighter movement of the seat up and down.
Were you able to settle this as I have exactally the same problem and same runaround from VW
When I apply the breaks, the drivers side light also comes on.
HELP!
Does anyone know of a place to just get a replacement boot?
Thanks,
Stephen
Please help with any suggestions. Thanks.
With a manual transmission and you are sitting at stop light, is it better to:
1. Hold the clutch in for the duration of the light thereby only pushing the pedel in once then letting go only when the light turns green.
2. Release the clutch requiring you to engage the clutch a second time when the light turns green.
It seems like option 2 would add additional wear and tear on the clutch because that engages the clutch twice as many times for every stop light. I've always done option 2 but at some point I wore out my clutch on my 2000 Passat and the service dept asked me if this was my first standard tranmission (implying I don't know how to drive). I feel my shifting is fine and am wondering if by disengaging the clutch at stoplights that puts addition wear and tear.
2nd Question:
When I get ready to get out of my Passast, the AC fan continues to run. I've heard it is better to let the car run until it turns itself off. If I turn off the car, the fan turns off right away.
http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1994/May/07.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/sub_care_clinic/1675807.html?page=2&c- - =y
2nd question: As long as your car ignition is on the electric radiator cooling will run if the A/C is on. If your engine is hot enough, the electric radiator cooling fan will run for awhile after you turn the engine off. If you have the turbo engine, let the car idle for a couple minutes after you have driven it hard, like coming into a rest stop or restaurant right off the freeway. That will cool the oil in the turbo.
thanks...
bill w.
p.s.
I have a 2002 Passat
Unfortunately, that doesn't explain how I destroyed my clutch then. Do VW's have a history of bad clutches? I attribute my clutch going out (twice) a result of my engine getting flooded during a huricane and the dealer changed my turbo (twice) plus did countless other things. The car was never quite right after that. Plus I generally drive pretty hard.
I'm thinking of buying a GTI and trading in the Passat. The dealership said they'd give me 4,500 as a trade in. Given that it needs clutch and front-end work, I figure thats not a bad price.
Did you replace the timing belt/serpetine belt/water pump yet?
I had the timing belt replacement done on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta @ 73,000 miles (which includes, the timing belt, serpentine belt, both hydraulic tensioners, and the water pump). Not because the timing belt or serpentine belt needed replacement (they could have easily gone another 25K-30K - based on the good condition of the belts), but because the water pump needed replacing (the plastic impeller was showing signs of disintegrating).
If you had the timing belt job done on your Passat, did you get the upgraded aftermarket water pump (with the metal impeller)? I have a feeling if the factory had used the metal impeller right from the get go, the timing belt change interval could easily increase to 100,000 miles.
Other than that, the Jetta is still running strong. I plan to have the water pump changed on my wife's 2003 Passat GLS (once it hits 70,000 miles) to the aftermarket water pump.
I wouldn't consider you lucky. I would bet that you maintained the car regularly (including VW 502.00 spec synthetic oil changes every 5,000 miles), used the proper grade of fuel most of the time, and drove it properly (in other words, you didn't drag-race the car or drive it like a maniac). You're getting out of the car what you put into it.
I wish you many more good miles :shades:
i'm looking into buying a 00 passat glx has just over 92,400 miles. It is in mint condition with heated leather seats, premium sound system with 6 disc changer in trunk, power everything, 5 speed tiptronic transmission, electronic climate control, 190 hp V6, power seats with memory, traction control and wood trim. The car needs (2) oxygen sensors which is what i'm worried about. Is this the problem that many passat owners have been dealing with their emissions stuff. the owner says it'll cost about 500 to fix. is this true? what do you guys think, is this a good investment for $7000? thank you!!! please help!!!
I haven't changed the serpantine belt yet. That is going to be next weekend when my step-dad comes to see me.
I get a fully sythetic oil change religiously every 5k-6k, which is usually every 2 to 2 1/2 months. I put a LOT of miles on my car. The oil change place I take it to is very reputable and knows the interval for my car, and I always request Mobil 1. I don't remember the weight they use, but I know it's in compliance with the maint schedule. It is still $50 per oil change, but I don't complain too much because everyone else I know has their oil changed every 3k for about $30, which means I am actually ahead by $10.
I also use 93 octane as MUCH as I can, but I usually slip up and use 87 every 5th or 6th tank on average just to save a little money when gas prices were $70+/barrel.
I will have to dispute, however, the comment you made about driving like a maniac...because I do drive like a maniac...lol I put Firestone Fuzion tires on it in July 2005, and they made the car handle SO well that I am already due for new tires. They are just about bald from peeling out at stoplights (after disengaging the ASR), cornering at more than double the posted recommended speed in curves, etc. I keep the RPM's far away from the redline though, which might help keep the car in good shape. I think I have a worn engine mount, because sometimes I hear a clunk in there when I drive over some roads. I know the symptoms of a worn/failing engine mount because I experienced similar problems with past cars.
I did, however, notice a slight tap in the lifters the other day. My step-dad knows enough about engines to help me get that taken care of.
If you purchased the aftermarket water pump, chances are it is the improved version with the metal impeller.
I plan to have the timing belt/water pump/serpentine belt changed on my wife's car sometime next year. The auto parts site that I use - germanautoparts.com sells complete timing belt service kits which include the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump (with metal impeller), hydraulic tensioners , and thermostat with O-ring for around $285 (for the Passat).
The Mobil 1 (VW 502.00 spec) is the 0W40 European formula, which I've heard great things about. I use Castrol Syntec 5W40 on all three of my VWs. These engines are designed to last at least 400,000 miles (diesels are designed to go at least 500,000 miles) with the proper maintenance and oil changes. The original engine in my old 1987 Golf GT lasted 429,000 miles...
Krzys
-Fabric window liner strip on driver passenger side loosed and came off six months ago. Per dealer (Laurel, MD) cost to repair:$273. It's still hanging. Don't know if its connected but I can no longer open this window.
-Last month the liner strip on the front passenger window did the same thing. I called VWOA. Per rep I'm out my 2 yr warranty so not covered but I did get a reference number in case it comes up as a problem. To me it's poor workmanship and sb covered. Owned two Toyotas for 8 and 12 yrs respectively never had this issue.
-Sunroof opens and closes on its own. will have it looked at with oil change where I know the dealership (where I purchased the car) will tack on extras.
-Gobbles oil but I keep her well fed.
My Passat looks good on the outside and I still smile when I see it at the curb but she sure is looking ragged inside.
Would this be covered under the power train warranty? If not what major type items are covered?
I am having the same problems you experienced so long ago. After a recall maintenace and driving the 2001 passat for 50 mi the MIL snesor lit and I paid $895 for the vacuum pump to be fixed. Is it possible the maintenance on the recalled breather hose/valve caused the vacuum pump to be damaged?
Have you had any responses to your issue in the time intervening?
My advice to you is to make sure that the problem is actually fixed. After it rains or after washing the car, check to see if you have any standing water under the battery. If you have a 2001.5 or newer car, you'll need to slide and remove the plastic hatch over the battery and peer in there with a flashlight.
Now, it is possible that the sunroof drains are clogged - it happens on Passats and other cars, too. But the clogged drains under the battery are pretty much a VW/Audi issue. VWoA will say it's a maintenance issue - the problem is they don't make any mention of cleaning these drains in the owner's manual or on their maintenance schedule. Plus the drains are not readily visible, being hidden under the battery and the brake booster. I'd say it's a poor design, no doubt.
Read this UK website for addressing this issue and cleaning these drains:
http://www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/index.htm
According to the Bentley shop manual for the Passat, you need to use a flexible long piece of wire to rout out any gunk in the actual sunroof drain lines. They sugget using a piece of speedometer cable which is probably available at your FLAPS.