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Is there anything I can do to prevent further water from coming thru the dry well in the meantime???
59klh
I'm looking at a 2003 Passat Wagon with 1.8T and 42k miles.
When did VW begin instructing dealerships and drivers to use the higher spec synthetic oils? Was it before or after the 2003 model year? Have the 2003 and later models had the oil sludge problems? How about the coil pack problems?
If sludge has begun to form in the engine, can it be detected by an experienced VW mechanic during a pre-purchase inspection? Can oil sludge be cleaned or removed from an engine? If so, is it feasible/affordable to do so?
I'm really trying to downsize from my Eurovan, and I like the Passat Wagons a lot, but I hesitate because of some years' problems.
Thanks in advance.
Ron
It's a sluggish car and when I test drove it I asked the salesman, he said that you have to "Drive it hard when you first get it, to train the engine on how you want to drive it" (verbatim). The car only had 11 miles on it and I was not about to "Drive it hard". Anyways I bought the car (mistake) and later asked the service desk. They said wait till 500 miles, then the "transmission training" should be started. I wish there was a way to turn off the "Transmission training" in the hopes it would improve the performance. The car has 1100 miles on it now and I am already trying to think how easily I could get rid of it and start off with another car.
At 42k miles, as long as the service records show that the oil has been changed every 5000 miles, the engine should be OK. But I would strongly recommend getting the engine flushed (you can use that as a bargaining tool in the price) and use synthetic oil the rest of the way (especially in turbocharged engines). As long as you do that, the engine (and turbo) should last at least 250,000 miles.
Here's a link to the synthetic oils recommended under the VW 502.00 specification:
http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf
Hope this helps...
Anybody have any good ideas? Obviously the car is out of warranty but do you think VW would pay for some of the repair? I loved the car but this is really disappointing.
http://www.vw.com/SP/MaintSchedule
"When did VW begin instructing dealerships and drivers to use the higher spec synthetic oils? Was it before or after the 2003 model year? Have the 2003 and later models had the oil sludge problems? How about the coil pack problems?"
Actually, the 2003 owner's manual does recommend synthetic oil, in a roundabout way. First, it recommended 5w-40 oil - in the North American market, this grade only comes in synth. Second, it cited several VW 50X standards - again a little research will show that this too only came in the synth flavor. The problem is the manual doesn't explicitly say "use synthetic". That was, IMO, a mistake.
I received the "Sludge Letter" from VWoA in August 2004, I believe.
On the coil pack topic, a 2003 model could have received the updated coil packs from the factory, depending on the assembly date. My '03 model was built in 06/2002, and it had the trouble-prone packs. I never suffered a failure and had all four replaced under the recall during a scheduled service visit. IIRC, those assembled from 08/2002 onward had the improved packs.
Have you had any success in addressing your problem? As you say, the warning light is very annoying and the STOP DON'T DRIVE warning doesn't exactly help the resale value, though I expect to drive this car into its grave.
Any ideas what, if anything, could be wrong? Engine management? Drive train issues?
Thanks,
Frank
What is the pressure in tires?
Emergency brake? - I know I am nasty, from time to time.
Krzys
I own a '04 1.8T VW Passat and have 15k miles on it. I have oil change every 3-4k miles and the dealer's mechanic says I won't need synthetic oil. Though I'm little worry reading all about the sludge problem. I decide to switch to syn oil on my next oil change. However, I've trouble locating the needed grade oil(5w-40). Hope you could help to give me some hint? Thanks alot.
chan6
Not even a month into having it, the check engine light comes on and the car shudders and it's the oxygen sensors. I replace them ($350) and decide to replace the spark plugs ($45) to make it run like it should. The people who had it before me probably didn't put the proper grade of gas (requires premium) and when I started putting it in there, I basically got the car sick -DOING THE RIGHT THING!-
Now, the ac is out!
I need to know how to get out from under the lease! I bought it with no warranty (I know, dumb, but we weren't going to pay the extra 2k up front that they wanted) so I don't know if they sold me a lemon or what. Is there a way to get out of the lease? I've never had to deal with something like this. I've had a '92 Camry LE since '97 and recently had to let her go and got this so I'm going back to a CAMRY! Any suggestions on how to get out of this dilemma??
Did you get the car looked at by an independent mecahnic? Did you research teh reliability of Passats?
How many miles on the car?
"I own a '04 1.8T VW Passat and have 15k miles on it. I have oil change every 3-4k miles and the dealer's mechanic says I won't need synthetic oil. Though I'm little worry reading all about the sludge problem. I decide to switch to syn oil on my next oil change. However, I've trouble locating the needed grade oil(5w-40). Hope you could help to give me some hint? Thanks alot."
Let me get this straight - a VW dealer mechanic told you that your 1.8T doesn't need synthetic oil? If so, he's absolutely incorrect. That's dead wrong. The dealers are passing out a pamphlet on this very topic in which it essentially mandates using a 502.00 Spec oil for all engines in 19998 to current models (ne PD diesels excepted - they have their own spec). The pamphlet even says something like "to VW's knowledge, only synthetic oil meets this standard." And not every synth meets it, only certain grades from certain brands.
I looked at your profile, but it doesn't reveal what part of the country you reside. Locally, in Western PA, I can find the following oils at local auto part stores:
Mobil 1 0w-40 - Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys, NAPA. (probably $4.99/qt).
Valvoline Synpower 5w-40 - NAPA ($4.69/Qt), Pep Boys ($4.89/Qt).
I'm sure that Autozone probably carries one or both (I don't shop there because it's not conveniently located). I think I saw Mobil 1 0w-40 at Walmart, but don't quote me on that one. If NAPA doesn't stock it, they can get it within a day or so; Valvoline Part # V V 966. The approved oil list can be found at:
VW 502.00 Approved Oil Chart
The only thing you need to know about that chart is that the North American Valvoline Synpower 5w.-30 is NOT 502.00 COMPLIANT, per Valvoline's website or technical department.
I hope this helps! Also, if you should be using a larger VW filter, # 068 115 561B. If they're telling you the wrong oil, they may be using the wrong filter. There is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on this very topic, dated from last summer.
BTW, if it were me, I'd call VWoA to let them know that a VW dealer tech is advising that synthetic is not needed. That kind of advice is going to cost someone a lot of headaches when their engine sludges.
I've modified my oil change interval to 4,000 miles as an additional hedge against sludging. I see that your changing every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Good on ya!
At my dealership, I always bring in my own synthetic oil. I've never had a problem with them using it. Labor charge is $20 for oil change, plus filter ($8.25) and oil disposal fee ($0.50). Seems reasonable since I don't have the time or work space to make this a DIY job right now.
I think the link I provided previously didn't work. Should have been:
http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf
I save every receipt for our VW like it was a sacred text. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks.
thanks,
evan93023
The seat warmer issue may be something as simple as replacing a fuse (most likely scenario), to replacing the seat warmer elements (least likely, but possible scenario).
As far as "tip lag", I would check to see if VW has a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on this condition. It may require a software upgrade to the transmission's computer to solve the problem....
Has anyone ever heard of this? These seem like pretty bad failure modes for these systems. I would expect some better safety overrides in these systems that would fail in a safer manner. Since these have only happened once each (so far) the dealer has not been able to fix or explain them.
He also reported the turbo / transmission did not seem right. During acceleration when the turbo kicked in the transmission would downshift 2 gears. I would expect this may happen on full hard acceleration but he reported this would happen on a moderate acceleration. After the dealer returned the car from the sudden acceleration problem the transmission seems to behave normally.
-- Is it normal to have these parts replaced in only 35K miles/5 years?
-- Is the cost estimate given reasonable?
-- Should I get this done at an auto shop rather than the dealer?
Your help is appreciated.
I would just like to say that I have a '97 Passat TDI that I absolutely love! I have almost 240,000 miles on my car. It has been the most reliable car I have ever owned. At 234,000 mile finally had the clutch assembly replaced. The mechanic said he'd never seen a clutch last so long.
I've had very few problems with the car. A new computer at 140,000 miles. I get my timing belt changed at every 60,000 (that seems to be a concern from what I've been reading). I just can't praise the car enough. And to top it all off, after this much mileage, I still get 47 miles to the gallon on highway driving.
"I have a 2000 Passat V6 with 35,000 miles on it. I recently took the car to a dealer to get the 40K mile service done. He told me that my rear brake pads have only 10% left on them and my serpentine belt is also severely damaged. The cost estimate given was $450 for the brake pads and $150 for the serpentine belt including parts and labor."
I'd say that for a dealer, the brake job price isn't high, assuming they are replacing the rotors, too. Having said that, I'd guess that an independent shop would beat the price.
BTW, it's not that uncommon for the Passat to run through the rear brakes like that, based on a number of posts I've read here and on other dedicated Passat forums.
Can't help you on the belt price.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I have read similar posts on other VW models but not the Passat.
I drove a 2001 Passat V6 stick shift car of my friend and was very impressed. I decided to buy an used 2000-2002 Passat but reading on the web hasn't pleased me a lot as i come across lot of complaints. Is it really worth buying a 2000-2002 used Passat? I do understand that it is a beautiful sporty sedan and driving it is a pure pleasure. But i cannot afford to spend a lot on maintenance. I would be most probably getting it from a private party and so i've to spend for everything since i wont have warranty. Please advice me.
Thanks a lot
I recently had my 2004 Passat (GLX V6) oil changed by the dealer @ 4000 miles.
I was going on a trip and wanted to ensure the oil was new. After the work was completed, I asked the service rep. what weight oil did they install? He replied 10w – 30 semi- synthetic??
Is this acceptable or should I replace this oil (after driving 800 miles) with VW 502.00?
Please let me know
jick
:confuse:
After driving 700 miles recently, when I came to a stop and the car shifted to first gear, I would get a strong KLUNK vibration? After the car was off the freeway, and in normal driving conditions for a period of time, no more KLUNK? Any ideas out their.
jick
Second, there is a pamphlet that I picked up at my VW dealership that, IIRC, indicates that VW spec 502.00 is recommended for all VW engines in 1998 to 2004 engines (excepting the PD diesel, which has its own special spec). I don't have it here, so I could be wrong about the full extent of the coverage.
Third, you could the VWoA at their 800 number and simply ask the question: What is the recommended oil for your engine and model year.
Having said all this, I don't think that the 2.8 V6 is nearly as hard on oil as is the 1.8T. You have a larger sump and no turbo, so that should equate to less stress on the oil. Maybe others here have better advice.
We are planning to buy a 2005 Passat GL Auto ..... This car is for my wife and she wants a very low maintanance car .... After reading reviews on this forum .... We have almost decided not to buy this car .... Any other opinions ?