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Comments
-mike
Gas Cap
Bad Gas Quality
-mike
1) Be sure to REALLY tighten your gas cap. I know it sounds riduculous, but I usually turn mine 3-4 times AFTER it starts to click.
2) Buy another gas cap and try that. If it doesn't help, at least you'll have a spare if you ever forget yours (don't know if Sorentos have a tether but the Sportage doesn't and I've lost one already).
Best of luck but just keep in mind, the CEL does NOT mean the engine is about to blow up!
Dealer told me to make sure the gas cap was tight and not to overfill the tank. There is some kind of vent that can cause "false" readings if tank is overfilled, or cap is not on tight (or a bad cap). Then wait two weeks because it can take that long to clear things up and if light was still on, to come see him. My light went off after 2 days and I haven't seen it back on in a couple of weeks. Apparently he sees this a lot on many types of cars.
Bad gas! It only takes a few tanks of bad gas to trigger the light. And I agree with lok888, my last two vehicles have had the light go on because of a faulty or fouled oxygen sensor.
Im sure your the service station has mentioned all these to you...but the fact they cant fix it would certainly have me concerned...as you are.
I've got 5300Kms on it and it's an EX with all options except leather and sunroof. So far I've been the greatest fan of it... nothing but good to say about it.
I've called the dealer and I will be taking it in tomorrow to have them check it out. I may actually tow it so cuz it may be unsafe to drive in this condition.
Anyone else having such problems?
I'll keep you posted.
Andrew
-mike
I got restless so I decided to tinker with it some more before taking it to the dealer. The problem was still there so I did a few tight turns, back and forth rolls, straight accellerations etc. Needless to say it did mark up the pavement quite a bit cuz the wheels were locked. At one point though it somehow released itself and all returned to normal.
Quite scary as I'd hate for the 4Low to engage at highway speeds unexpectedly.
I'm still gonna get it checked out... I've gotta take it in for it's first oil change anyways.
I'll keep ya posted.
-mike
Deke
Great info as usual. I was going to answer that until I saw your post. I couldn't have put it better myself (and I would not have been able to go into near as much detail as you were able to).
Nicely done.
Duncan
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
TOD mode on the trooper will shift up to 50% power to the front same as on the Sorento. My guess is that the gearing on the Trooper is such that it's more offroad geared (lower gearing) than on the Sorento which is probably geared more for onroad.
-mike
The vibration is felt mostly in the brake pedal and seat cushion. Sometimes the vibration is strong enough to hear. It seems to be coming from the rear of the vehicle.
I tried to read any and all posts here related to vibration prior to posting so as not to be redundant. I couldn't find any concerning vibrations related to braking. If I missed something, sorry for the rerun.
I'll be stopping at the dealer two days from now about another minor cosmetic issue and it would be nice to know if any other Sorento owners have had similar experiences and what, if any, solutions their dealers were able to arrive at so I might point mine in the correct direction.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Bob
Anyway, I lowered the tire pressure to factory recommended 30 psi (cold). Before I lowered it, it was 37 psi. Both settings made no difference. I still get bumpy ride. The only different is you have the vibration when braking from high speed. I feel it most of the time when the car is moving.
One poster already gave me some suggestions. But I haven't tried that experiment yet. It may be a bad tire like he suggested. I don't know this is tire pressure issue since I have tried several different settings. My next guess is wheel balance or alignment. But I am sure the wheels and tries have no sudden impact to cause them out of balance or alignment. I will go to my dealer in few days. Any suggestion?
Anyway, I still don't know what happen to cause the bumpy ride or vibration on my Sorento. I looked back and people were having similar problem but tire rotation and balance did correct it.
have them raise the car off the ground a few inches on the lift. take a dial indicator gauge with a roller tip and a heavy metal base. slide it up until it just touches the tire. then rotate the tire by hand. you should be able to see the deflection in thuosandths of an inch. this is the out-of round condition. the dealer ship can establish a number for it with the tire vendor. this wil help you get replacement tires. my goodyear dealer did this for me once and it was very helpful at finding the bad tire.
you can also measure the side wall by adjusting the gauge to roll on the sidewall. this helps find a bulging radial belt. or a wacked out rim.
that also happens.
A similar test can be run on the axle shafts where they are installed on the car. there are about foru shafts one your car. two on the front , at least one in the middle and one or two on the back depending on if it has independent rear axles.
they also can make wicked vibratino if crooked.
The most amazing noise file- I had a drive shaft on an LTD that needed 1 Oz. of weight! I knew I had a vibration , but did not know why. Finally I took the drive shaft to a truck axle/ drive shaft place. for $ 50 they straighten the shaft and welded on the tinyest little booger of metal you ever saw. What a great $ 50. from then on the car drive silently.
good luck.
sean
Anyway - I learned a lot about the emissions controls on newer cars and the OBDII codes. By the way, places like AutoZone will hook up the OBDII reader for no charge, so that's good to know if the check engine light ever comes on. At least you know what you're dealing with. I also don't consider this to be a very major issue, and it was the first I've had since purchase in December - 4800 miles. Funny thing is I've still had fewer problems on my Sorento than I did with my Accord at the same mileage. Hmmm.
-- Dave
For our own reference, where is the connector in case any one has to get a system check done at AutZone. Thanks.
lok888 - From what I've learned, the emissions controls trigger the light 95% of the time in cars nowadays, so most people never experience performance problems. Out of the 95%, a large percentage of the problem is just a loose or broken gas cap. Some states have strict laws that won't allow emissions tests to pass with this light on. But OBDII also monitors other vehicle systems so it can really help. The emissions limits that are set for modern cars are really strict. The ODBII system is looking at a lot of things and therefore has more sensors, wiring, tubing etc. When all that is added, the reliability of the emissions system actually goes down and you get more reported errors - although the emissions probably haven't gone up much. With that many parts in a vehicle, you will have some that fail early. After a year or so, the early failures will stop - this is true in any complex machine so the vehicle will appear to get more reliable as time goes on until things start wearing out at "high" mileage. I found this to be true on any new vehicle that I have owned for a long time. The nice thing about all this is that even as complex as it sounds, all systems have a backup, so overall reliability of the vehicle is very good. You won't be stranded because a single sensor failed.
Man am I long winded - hope that clarifies things a little.
Dave
ODBII Emissions (solid CE light) can be triggered by anything from loose or defective gas cap to a charcoal canister problem, to even bad gas. Usually what I do is disconnect my battery overnight and re-set the ECU, if there is a problem other than bad gas/gas cap, it will come back.
-mike
Zerks are a mixed blessing at best in my experience. The check ball in the fitting often jams and allows water and dirt in and grease out or overzealous grease monkeys pump the joint up with too much grease and the seal ruptures. Unless you grease these fittings daily when exposed to water, mud, etc. (like on off-road construction equipment), I think that you are better off with sealed ball joints. The ball joints are not that difficult to replace and many sealed units last for a good long time.
BTW- I had used the local Kia dealer for my first two oil changes and was pretty satisified for the price and service- until yesterday. When I got under the Sorento to check something, I noticed that the U-joint fittings had never been greased. There are 5 fittings if I remember correctly- front and rear U-joints and slip yoke for the rear axle and rear U-joint and slip yoke for the front axle. All the fittings had their rubber caps on them- (similiar to what is on a brake bleeder screw)and you can be sure these caps are never reinstalled by service people after they are greased.
Heck, maybe they did me a favor- at least I know now the fittings are greased and I still had the caps to put back on!
Anything I should check before adding to dealer list?
* Low beam - H7
* High beam -H1
* Front marker - 168 or 194
* Front turn signal - 2357 or 1157
* Rear turn signal - 1156
* Back up - 1156
* Tail light - 2357 or 1157
If you are interested in buy those HID look, super white, xenon bulbs, be careful not to buy those exceed the factory recommended wattage of 12V55W. Higher wattage like 80W plus will cost overheat and burn the wires. I like the PIAA but MTEC (also made in Japan - same rating with PIAA) cost half less.
To change the headlight bulbs, I would suggest to remove the headlight assembly for better hand position. For the tail light section, you have to remove the tail light assembly. There is no access panel inside the car.
For K&N filter, I am not sure. The stock filter costs about $15. And I am not sure K&N will boost some horsepower or the same. But they cost twice as much than the stock.
I hope this can help!
-mike
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