99 GMC Sierra

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Comments

  • petriheilpetriheil Member Posts: 19
    My dealer puts out a poop sheet outlining the
    process from placing of order to delivery. It runs
    something like: place order; GM assigns order #; GM preferences for production; etc., etc. At each
    step I'm supposed to be notified when it happens. I ordered my 2000 GMC on 10 July and haven't heard
    anything since. I don't want to seem overly anxious (actually I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas) and bug him, but I am wondering. How was the process for y'all out there in truck land? How long before you started hearing something or knowing that progress was being made? Once you have an order number or something, is there a GM or other site on the web where you can track progress? Thanks for any info on this matter. I sure would like to join the ranks of those bragging on their new truck rather than just sitting and waiting. SFT
  • mfreemanmfreeman Member Posts: 37
    I placed my order with the dealer on July 15, and still haven't received an order number. I've been bugging him every week (because he tells me he will order it in a few days after I call him) He told me that again this week (hopefully he's correct)

    Until the dealer has allocation to place your order, there is nothing the dealer can do. My only grip is that I can't seem to get a straight answer out of my dealer. If he had told me it was going to be three weeks before he had allocation, I wouldn't have a problem, but he keeps telling me "one more day".

    To any dealers out there, some of us just want the truth. I already know I'm in for a long wait, I just don't like being lead down the path with a dealer that likes to dangle carrots in front of my face and then pull them back every time I get close.

    Later,
    Mike F
  • haulinhaulin Member Posts: 17
    I ordered a '99 on 2/9, had a build week of 5/9, was notified in June that it wasn't going to be built. I then ordered a 2000 on June 5th, he called me during the build week (7/19) and gave me a VIN # on 7/26. Should have the truck no later than end of next week. Only info I ever got out of dealer was target build week. This was for a 3/4 xtnd longbed 4X4 with everything I could put on it. Lack of info drove me nuts, I even put in a complaint through GM. They just directed me back to the dealer. Not what I would call an optimum system, but who am I. Dealer blames GM, GM says they can't do anything, go through the dealer. I don't have to like it, I just have to put up with it. Hope to be smilin' soon.
  • sbquinnsbquinn Member Posts: 7
    Got my order number for my 2000 GMC truck yesterday. Talked to the dealer, and there is no way to get a status except to call him. He said that it has a build date of the week of 9/6, and that they should be on time. Will have to wait and see.
  • g8trg8tr Member Posts: 77
    Does anybody have an idea on how to make the power locks UNLOCK automatically? Seems to me that if they can make the DRL come on when the parking brake is released, the engineers should be able to make the doors unlock when the truck is put in park. It is a little annoying to manually unlock the door but it is no big deal.
    Thanks for any ideas.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Try this website:

    http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/

    They have what you want if you have an automatic transmission.

    Mike
  • aaron_aaaron_a Member Posts: 29
    Any one Delt with them before or ordered one of their products? How was your experience with them.
    Thanks,
    Aaron

    Also: Any one have a 99 GMC with the Colorado Custom option? This could just be a Tucson, AZ dealership thing... Just wondering
  • rfrossrfross Member Posts: 15
    I believe that the dealer can re-program the computer to unlock the doors for you. They remain locked by default as a personal safety feature but that can be over-ridden at the dealer. I recall seeing an earlier post either within this thread or some other that described the dealer reprogramming.
  • svarelasvarela Member Posts: 3
    Anyone hear if there is a fourth door planned for mid 2000? Cant imagine the wizzards in Detriot not figuring truck owners having a few items in their hands that need near-rear stowage.
  • svarelasvarela Member Posts: 3
    Anyone hear if there is a fourth door planned for mid 2000? Cant imagine the wizzards in Detriot not figuring truck owners having a few items in their hands that need near-rear stowage.
  • obeardenobearden Member Posts: 34
    I saw some brochures yesterday for the 2000 and they indicated that a third door would be standard on extended cabs and a fourth door would be optional equipment. even had pictures of it.
  • iwactiwact Member Posts: 25
    I talked with the dealer yesterday and they told me: They will start taking orders for the 4th door option in mid-november and they will start building them in feb or march.
  • brutus35brutus35 Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know if I can buy the skirt and bulbs from the factory to install on my truck?
    Please respond to my e-mail also if you can.
    Tom
  • allenc1allenc1 Member Posts: 3
    Just picked up my 99, and It's a great truck. I have one problem that the dealer is scratching his head about. My "Service 4WD" light comes on briefly on engine start, right after the alternator light goes out, and only once in every 10 or so starts. Auto, Hi, & Low 4Wd works fine. It does not send any diagnostic codes to the computer, so they can't figure it out. Two other trucks on the lot do the same thing, others do not. Anyone else seen this? Thanks.
  • jdbuffjdbuff Member Posts: 5
    I'm thinking about buying a 99 or 2000 Sierra. I really want the 4 door x-cab, but not sure when I could get one. I plan to use the truck for commuting & will not do much towing. Towing will be only a few times/year and I may haul some dirt & rocks from time to time. If I tow, it will probably just be a pop-up camper or small trailer. I'll also be hauling my 3 kids around on the weekends. I'm on the fence about:
    -Should I wait on the 4 door?
    -Should I get the towing package & have a rougher ride and lower gas mileage?
    -Should I get a 4.8 or 5.3l V8?
    -Should I get a bench seat or the captain chairs (my wife wants the bench seat so we can haul all 5 of us + 1)?

    Any thoughts anyone? Thanks
  • bradz333bradz333 Member Posts: 1
    Just ordered my '00 sierra, SLE 4X4. I thought I had seen, in one of these rooms, an on-line site to "track" you truck throughout the build process. Anyone know if there is such an animal? If so, please post the site. Tks
  • gmcnutgmcnut Member Posts: 14
    JD, You didn't specify whether or not you're looking for a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton but regardless of which way you go the 4th door is going to be in limited production per "wheels.com" where you can go and get the latest status of production news. 1/2 ton Sierra's are probably going to be easier to get. Find a dealer and get your order in ASAP. They've been building them since mid-June. Some options are already in limited supply, locking rear end, 3.73 differential and aluminum wheels. If I were you I would go with the wife's choice of the bench seat. I've got one in my current '96 SLE and it's a great seat. Firm, with plenty of adjustment. Good luck and let us know when it's ordered. That's just the begining of the fun!
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    First, the towing package neither gives you a rough ride nor reduced mileage. It is just a class III hitch and wiring. The associated Firm Ride suspension is not that firm. I had the Firm Ride and it was too soft. I upgraded later to Z71 shocks and it is still soft.

    The 4.8L engine has plenty of power. Unless you want to tow 5000lb trailer in the mountains. With a camper, our truck weighs 6500lbs. The 4.8L had no problems even in the mountains. 4.10's are useful with the 4.8L.

    The bench seat is really two buckets and a jump seat in between for a small passenger.

    Good luck,

    Mike
  • rxa462rxa462 Member Posts: 1
    I own a '99 GMC Sierra 5.3L SLE Z71 extended cab. When I first test drove this truck, I immediately feel in love with it!!!!! A big step up from the Dodge Dakota I used to drive.

    I have owned the Sierra for about three months now and just recently I have found a couple of "bugs" in the vehicle. The most annoying problem is the passenger side of the vehicle squeaks during acceleration, breaking, and sometimes turning. I can't pinpoint the source of the squeaking, but I think it might have to do with the third door. If anyone else has had this problem, please let me know what you did to fix it. In addition, the abs seem to "turn on" every now and then (like when I am slowly braking at a stop sign,...on dry pavement).

    On the plus side, I really love the amount of room I now have and the feel of sitting so much higher than everyone else...
  • fcattfcatt Member Posts: 4
    Have 99 extended cab 2WD SLT with heavy duty suspension (includes larger tires). I have had chassis squeaks and vibration from the start. GM had design problems. Found squeak in the front was bushings in control arms (GM has fix which requires new control arms). Rear squeaks and low speed vibration was fixed by replacing with new springs. This was also a GM fix. i.e the new springs have different spring rate. This fixed most of my problems. I still has a squeak which sounds like shocks (maybe) when going over country roads and extending the shocks,

    I also had windshield noise which turned out to be mouldings on left and right of windshield. The dealer glued the moulding to windshield - problem went away.

    Does anyone know about a fix or change in the shocks for 2WD trucks. Mine has Monroe 38 mm shocks. I have been thinking about Bilstien shocks.
  • ciaociao Member Posts: 1
    Just took delivery on my new Sierra. Love the functional portion of the unit, however, I hear all kinds of strange noises. I am coming from a 99 Dodge Dakota that was almost silent in operation, so maybe I am just new to this game.
    Wind noise from 3rd door is a bear. Changing directions with the automatic transmission almost sounds like the transmission is going to drop out.

    Anyone notice these sounds going bump in the night?
  • iwantagmctruckiwantagmctruck Member Posts: 12
    When I test drove the Sierra's I noticed that
    the wind noise from the 3RD door varied from
    truck to truck (drove three of them).
    There appears to be a number of areas where
    it can be adjusted. I would ask the dealer
    to dial it in for you.

    Good luck.
  • reb12reb12 Member Posts: 41
    You blew it like me. I bought a 99 Siverado, and have had nothing but problems. Problems that GM is unwilling to fix. The clunking of the tranny is one of the worst, as is the clattering in the front end, leaky rear windows, windows that stay down and won't come back up, door moldings that flap in the breeze, squealing brakes, dash rattles, vibrations, etc., etc., etc. If you can get out of it quickly, I would!!!!

    ren12@mn.mediaone.net
  • pedersonpederson Member Posts: 1
    I ordered my 2000 SLE Z71, loaded on 7/1/99. And was told that it is supposed to be shipped on 9/15/99. It does get very frustrating waiting for it to come in. I still haven't got any VIN or any other number for that matter. I just hope that it is in by the end of this month, because I have seen the same truck for sale on the lots of other dealers. However, I am very hesitant to even pick it up hearing the problems that people have had with them. I have a friend who is an avid Ford man, and I don't think my ego could handle him tearing me to shreds.
  • tjmixtjmix Member Posts: 5
    I to had the same noise problems along with the hurricane that roared continuously from the third door in my 99 Sierra. Fortunately the dealer was able to correct every problem to my complete satisfaction, the Ford dealer, that is. My 2000 F250 is sitting in my driveway, no knock, no wind. Great truck. Hope things work out for you guys as well. Good Luck.
  • hardware1hardware1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a '99 4.8 ext cab and auto with 3.42. I've got 17000 miles in 6 months of ownership and am very pleased. I traded a '98 Chevy 6 cylinder with a computer problem.
    Aside from the launch shutter, and stupid tire vibration, the steering is my only real complaint. The highway driving experiences have all been great with 20 and 21 mpg.
    GMC does need to move the recline lever up and forward somewhat.
    Anyone having oil consumption? 1/2 to 1 quart between 4000 mile changes. They say it is normal.
    Thanks, Chip
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    My oil level doesn't budge from the full mark between changes. (3000 mi) I used Mobil-1 5W/30 continuously from the very first change. I have 5.3L engine. I have 14,000 miles now.
  • obeardenobearden Member Posts: 34
    No oil consumption for me. Using 10W/30 synthetic blend by Valvoline. However, you may notice that six full quarts do not fill it all the way to the full mark. Be careful you don't see that as your consumption. Run it for a few minutes after oil change, shut down for app 30 minutes and note the oil level. Use this as your reference. On mine it only covers about 3/4 of the "operating range" area on the stick.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Takes more than 6.5 quarts to top-up mine.
  • hardware1hardware1 Member Posts: 5
    I appriciate that advice. I have had the dealer do the changes as I have not had the time. They don't even know how to reset the message center "change oil" message!
    I had the reprogram of the automatic transmission done and find that the milege is alittle less. I was doing 17 around town, now only 15. Anyone else notice this?
    Chip
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    Are you using the 10 -40 or the 5-30 mobil sinthetic. Got some at walmart upon your advice Thanks
  • mckainmckain Member Posts: 20
    Does anyone know how this system really works? How can it shift into 4x4 quick enough to help when you loose traction on a highway at speed? I just bought a 99 5.3/auto 4x4 auto-track and I am leary of when to use it in 4x4 mode. Older trucks did not like running on dry pavement with 4x4 on.

    Questions are: what happens when it goes into 4x4
    mode. Do both the hubs and transmission engage or
    are the hubs always engaged and the transfer case just engages? Is there a clutch in the transfer case that allows some slip or does it just engage a gear?

    Any info would help me use it better.

    Thx,
    Jim
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    I use 5W/30 Mobil-1.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    When in Auto-Trak mode you are in 2wd until slippage is detected, then it shifts into 4wd faster than you can notice.

    This 4wd does not like to run in 4wd on pavement; but Auto-Trak will shift back into 2wd to prevent damage.

    Auto-Trak is the best of two worlds. Use it whenever the conditions might need 4wd and it will use 4wd whenever it needs to.

    Mike
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    same as mine, 6qts take it to bout 2/3 between the low and high mark. Always been told to trust the qty of oil to be used, NOT the dipstick. Ford said on one of my vehicles to make a scribe after adding the correct amount of oil - 6qts in our case, and use that as "full". Remember too much oil is bad!
  • rfrossrfross Member Posts: 15
    It's been a while since I last updated this so here's the latest regarding my 4000 mile '99 extended cab, 4X4, 5.3, Z71 in the rare (never have seen one like it) indigo blue top/storm gray bottom two-tone. (Anybody else out there have one in this color combo?)

    Best mileage: 18.8, mostly freeway
    Normal mix city/highway mileage: 17 plus

    Added a Gibson stainless exhaust - awesome sound and better seat of the pants feel. Doesn't seem to have done much for the mileage, though, because it is more fun to drive with the pedal to the metal now!

    Have a number of under dash noises - wires rattling around, vibrational noises, etc. My 1996 Tacoma 4X4 with 50,000 miles on it had absolutely no rattles in the cab. Too bad this truck isn't as good in this area. Can't wait to hear what it sounds like at 50,000.

    Speakers rattle in the door with heavy bass. Typical for factory speakers but uncalled for in a vehicle that stickered at $32,000 plus.

    A bumper pad/cushion fell off the parking brake release (I think that's where the rubber thingie came from) and now the parking brake pedal slams into the dash with a disgusting crash when it is released.

    The drivers side manual lock lever (the sliding one) bezel is loose and needs to be fixed.

    The drivers side in-board arm rest touches the seat belt buckle when down and has begun to wear a small hole in the fabric on the underside of the arm rest.

    Once I had some miles on it I began to explore the performance capabilities. Under full throttle acceleration I notice a pronounced hesitation that begins immediately upon mashing the throttle at low speeds and it really shows up around 4,000 RPM plus. Kind of like the knock sensor is detecting knock and backing off the timing. Premium fuel has not helped.

    Did my first oil change at 2,000 miles and switched to Mobil 1. Lots of metal shavings were attached to the magnetic drain plug. Hopefully they won't reappear at the next change.

    Have to schedule an appointment at the dealer to download the latest computer software which will hopefully fix my hesitation problem as well as address the other 'problems' on my list.

    The ride is smooth unloaded but actually becomes rougher when I tow our 2,500 pop-up camper. The exact opposite of all previous trucks that I've owned.
  • mikey42mikey42 Member Posts: 28
    a lot of metal shavings when I did my first oil change at 780 miles. And I have a rattle in the dash now at 1,100 miles but its still at the point where I can ignore it, till it gets consistent and then fix it (makes it easier to find).

    mike
  • dallas75dallas75 Member Posts: 72
    rfross....When you installed the Gibson system on your truck, how hard was it to remove the stock system. Did you have to cut it out to remove or simply unbolt it.
    My 99 Indigo Blue Z-71 has a Lt.Pewter botttom. One of my biggest problems is keeping the fingerprints off of it!!!
    Thanks for your help.
  • tjmixtjmix Member Posts: 5
    Regarding your question about 4x4 engage during slippage, you have to change the way your used to thinking about 4x4. What happens when you select auto four wheel drive is that the gears actually engage at that time, but no power is sent to the front driving wheels. Now, there are on board computer sensors monitoring the front wheels looking for any slipage from the wheels to the road. Once slipage is detect the computer sensors direct power to the front wheels to counter act this. And yes with todays technology it does work that fast. But remember, your gears are engaged, its just a matter of power or no power. So, I would not drive on dry pavement in this mode. You would use this during a rainstorm or just after, when the roads might be a bit slippery.

    Good luck with your new truck!!
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Right Tjmix. In auto, the hubs are locked, but the transfer case doesn't engage until slippage detected. In auto, the front drive shaft, differential pinion, gear and carrier turn all the time. That's why you want 2wd selected unless it is slippery. In 2wd, those same components are stationary.
  • lrouselrouse Member Posts: 2
    I've read a lot of these post's but have been away for awhile. I would like to know if any of you with a few miles on your GMC have engine noise at start-up in the mornings. I have only 4500 on mine and just recently started hearing the typical lifter/rocker arm "ticking" for the first 5-10 seconds. I say typical only because most people are familiar with the noise I am referring to. I do not believe its something that should be there at this time.
  • obeardenobearden Member Posts: 34
    I am experiencing the engine noise you described and I have seen it discussed here before. When I asked the SM at the dealer, he said he had heard that there was a bad batch of oil filters (PF59) which had a defective check valve. I had thought my problem had disappeared with my last oil change, but that is not the case. It's time for another oil change and I will post the results. Mine didn't start until about 25,000.
  • lrouselrouse Member Posts: 2
    The "bad oil filter" is an old ploy that I first heard of with my '95 Chevy with the old tried -n- true 350. Turned out later they admitted having "soft" lower bearing's which they replaced and continued to give me some noise when I decided to trade. I personaly have never owned a vehicle that was noisy @ start-up which is why this bothers me, especialy with only 4500 on it, and it doesn't go away as soon as the oil pressure comes up, but maybe a few more seconds later. Not to mention the other problems I have had with it. Thanks for the feed back.
  • mike38mike38 Member Posts: 15
    99 Z/71 5.3 reg.cab locking diff. 265's 3000 miles.The drivetrain vibration that started at 600 miles continues (60 to 70 mph.) - dealer says they have tonnes of complaints, but no formal fix yet from GM; "their working on it" says the service manager.
    My latest concern: About 1000 miles ago a problem has developed. On cold start up the engine knocks for about 15 to 20 seconds. It sound like bottom end for sure. My first oil change I went to the good stuff (5-30 Mobil). I have just done my 2nd oil change and the knock is still there. I dissagree with the pf59 filter story regarding the check valve. The filter is mounted upright and remains full of oil at all times, therefore the oil pump is always fully primed, unlike side mounted filters where the check valve would play a role. In all fairness my 91 chev silverado also had this same problem on start-up it was a 305. Although it was a horrible sound to here in the morning the motor ran with no problems. Its interesting to see the GM service manual explanation of this problem. In the trouble shooting flow chart that the tech's use it says this noise is a result of lifter bleed down: and I quote-
    "ENGINE KNOCKS ON INITIAL START UP BUT ONLY LASTS A FEW SECONDS'- possible cause- 1. Improper oil viscosity.
    2.Hydraulic lifter bleed down: this condition is normal. Oil drains from the lifters which are holding the valves open when the engine is not running. It will take a few seconds for the lifter to fill after the engine is started.
    CORRECTION; none need.

    This is a direct quote from GM service manual pg6A-5, dated 1991. I dont know if I fully agree but will monitor condition and keep you all posted. If we all keep each other informed we will be in a better position to take action on our somewhat problematic trucks - depite these problems I love the truck its a beast.
  • obeardenobearden Member Posts: 34
    The bad oil filter story would not have rung true in 95 since the PF58 filter didn't have a check valve.
    The check valve is not in the filter to keep the filter full. It is there to prevent the drain down situation described in the previous post. I intend to try the Pure One from purolator which is a premium filter with check valve. I have used it succesfully in the past to replace a non-check valve filter, solving this very same problem on other vehicles.
  • powerisfunpowerisfun Member Posts: 358
    There is a product on the market which is essentially an electric oil pump that prelubes your engine before you start it up. Basically, you pump oil through the motor using battery
    power, then you start the engine. It's $400 or so in the Summit Racing catalog (or JCWhitney, can't remember which). That may be something to consider if GM says it's normal and it still bothers you. I imagine that would really prolong the engine life too.
  • mikem16mikem16 Member Posts: 2
    what is the best polish for clear coat paste or liquid any particular brands will be in the woods and on the highway in the northeast
  • lpieartlpieart Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Sierra extended cab long bed that has trashed a rear end and transmission in less than 2500 miles while towing a 6500 lb. travel trailer. The truck had a total of 3800 miles on it when the rear end failed and 5800 on it when the transmission failed. I have the 5.3L and a 3.73 rear end. I towed the same trailer with an 87 van for 20K miles without a problem. Other than not being able to make a trip with the trailer without breaking something, I really like the truck. Does anyone know of someone with a similar experience that has solved the problem?
  • jaijayjaijay Member Posts: 162
    Mikem16, I have a 99 Silverado Indigo Blue with Pewter. Of all of the waxes/polishes that I have used, the stuff put out by Zaino Bros is simply the best. The stuff is somewhat pricey but lasts quite long and can take a beating. Pine Sap and bird droppings are nasty and can corrupt a nice looking vehicle. Mud and dirt are also nasty. I have found this stuff does not attract dirt and dust like a wax does. I live in the north east and have just put another coat of the stuff for winter.
  • sia1sia1 Member Posts: 4
    I HAVE A '99 GMC SHORT BED STEP SIDE 4X4. 7000 MILES I PUT THE PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW DOWN AND IT STAYED DOWN. I HAD BEEN HEARING A SCREECHING SOUND FOR A FEW DAYS I REALLY ENJOYED DRIVING WITH THE WINDOW DOWN WHEN IT WAS 30 DEGREES OUTSIDE. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THAT THE WINDOW REGULATOR NEEDED REPLACED. ITS BEEN 5 DAYS AND STILL NO PARTS IN YET. GM EVER THINK OF USING NEXT DAY AIR FOR WARRANTY ITEMS?
    I HAVE BOUGHT OVER $100,000 WORTH OF GM VEHICLES IN THE LAST THREE YEARS ---NEVER AGAIN!!!!!
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